As was foretold, we've added advertisements to the forums! If you have questions, or if you encounter any bugs, please visit this thread: https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/240191/forum-advertisement-faq-and-reports-thread/
Options

The Art of War: Miniature Modelling and Painting

1424345474862

Posts

  • Options
    stratslingerstratslinger Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Those Orks are looking nice - the gun's rather shiny looking compared to most minis I've seen. It's actually a neat look!

    So I asked this question over in the main 40k thread last night, and got no response, so I'll try here, since it is a little more painting related: How acceptable is it to field Marines without squad markings? I'd like to try some different lists, and marines being marines, there's several models that could fill roles in several different types of units. Is it typically OK to leave those markings off, or should I just commit each model to a specific unit type?

    stratslinger on
  • Options
    IanatorIanator Gaze upon my works, ye mighty and facepalm.Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I wouldn't worry too much about squad markings. As long as each unit can be easily identified by what weapons are in it, you'll be fine. I used to have two slightly different-looking bolter Marines in my Devastator Squads before they got transferred to fill up my Tactical Squads.

    Ianator on
    steam_sig.png
    Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
    Backlog Challenge List
  • Options
    MaceraMacera UGH GODDAMMIT STOP ENJOYING THINGSRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    What's the general consensus on using LoTR figures in WHFB?

    Macera on
    xet8c.gif
  • Options
    AsherAsher Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    They are a slightly different scale, so they look smaller. Their proportions are also more accurate, so they end up looking quite different. I'm not sure what the rules are about using LOTR parts in Tournaments, but last I heard, if you did, your models couldn't be featured in White Dwarf or win certain prizes or something.

    Asher on
    I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
  • Options
    Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt (effective against Russian warships) Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    It's part of the contract with New Line. They don't want their IP being featured in other games.

    Gabriel_Pitt on
  • Options
    JerickJerick Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    After finally sitting down and grinding out some painting, I've finished'ish my first squad of space marines, they still need the shoulder decals, and the commander is missing some brown paint that I'm waiting to arrive, but other then that I'm pretty pleased with how they turned out.

    squad1.jpg

    Jerick on
  • Options
    GahmriousGahmrious Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Despite Lootas looking absolutely awesome, they are a bit aggervating to paint. The finished product is neat, but my head is pounding from painting all those small little hoses , and gun parts... Rawr.

    Meh... :
    loota2.jpg
    loota.jpg

    Jerick, lookin good. You've got the fundamentals down, and it looks like you pay close attention to detail on your models, which is nice to see from a novice painter.

    Gahmrious on
  • Options
    Dark_SideDark_Side Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    So, can anybody give me some good advice on free handing insignias? I tried freehanding some Khorne marks on my renegade IG's shoulder pads...it looked really really bad.

    Dark_Side on
  • Options
    HompHomp Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Make sure your paints are watered down really well, and instead of trying to get the symbol done in 1 pass, use successive layers.

    Also, practice on a piece of paper a few times before you dive in. And practice with the brush and consistency of the paint on the paper, not drawing it with a pencil. In fact, you could try to pencil the symbol on the mini itself. Never done that myself, but might be worth trying.

    Just remembered this:
    Brushthralls Symbols. Some good advice in there as well.

    Homp on
    chosen7171-1.gif
  • Options
    GahmriousGahmrious Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    On my secret santa project I attempted to freehand a khorne symbol... and yeah its rather difficult. I guess get the finest tip brush you can find, and.... not shake?

    Also, the khorne symbol mostly consists of a bunch of straight lines. So, make a line and turn the model accordingly, rather than moving arounda bunch of funny angles.

    Gahmrious on
  • Options
    EchoEcho ski-bap ba-dapModerator mod
    edited August 2008
    Where's my damn camera charger? :x I want to take a pic of the swap I did for my Ironfang pikes. Replaced the crooked tin pikes with some flower decoration pins. Looking great. And straight.

    Echo on
  • Options
    GahmriousGahmrious Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Homp, thx for that linkage.

    Gahmrious on
  • Options
    drhazarddrhazard Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Dark_Side wrote: »
    So, can anybody give me some good advice on free handing insignias? I tried freehanding some Khorne marks on my renegade IG's shoulder pads...it looked really really bad.

    Do NOT start with paint. Take a thin mechanical pencil, and draw the design on with that first. Then, go over the pencil with black (usually), then fill in the black, leaving a little on the edges for definition. It's what I did for my Biel-Tan Eldar--I put the Biel-Tan emblem the helmet of every Aspect Warrior. (Unfortunately, I don't have any pics. However, know that the Biel-Tan emblem is harder than the Khorne one, and I think it turned out perfect.)

    drhazard on
    SCB.jpg
  • Options
    UtsanomikoUtsanomiko Bros before Does Rollin' in the thlayRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I found a useful way to make simple custom Chapter emblems was by printing several of them out at the proper size onto printing paper and cutting them out These would give me the basic shape to use as a stencil; gluing them with a tiny amount of white glue onto the painted model and tracing around it with a pencil.

    Once I pulled off the paper and wiped away the excess glue, I'd be left with a near-perfect pencil outline of the desired shape. This might be a more desirable technique for large icons on vehicles and the like, where you'd need more precise geometries and can cut more detailed shapes.

    Utsanomiko on
    hmm.gif
  • Options
    HompHomp Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Gahmrious wrote: »
    Homp, thx for that linkage.


    No worries, Brushthralls is a pretty great site for painting in general. Most of the stuff is done on Privateer Press models, but the techniques and tips are solid.

    Homp on
    chosen7171-1.gif
  • Options
    GahmriousGahmrious Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    So my next big project is finishing this looted Rhino, for my orks...

    I've primered it black, and just completed a base coat of Mordian Blue... Any suggestions for my first vehicle?

    @_@ this thing is so intimidating....

    Gahmrious on
  • Options
    rucdocrucdoc Crazy guy in the corner ClassifiedRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    So I'm working on some terrain peices, thought you guys might have some suggestions on weathering them once I have them done

    rucdoc on
    Original Creepy Janitor

    http://www.dust514stats.com
  • Options
    SJSJ College. Forever.Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Are they going to be Imperial, Orky...? Regardless, I would suggest putting some holes in them in various places before you spray them from mortar impacts/grenades/etc. And is that last one supposed to be some sort of dock? Because that's awesome if it is. I would also suggest perhaps putting a battlement up around the edges of that building for people to fire from (with search lights on the corners if you have any to spare, for awesomeness' sake).

    SJ on
  • Options
    rucdocrucdoc Crazy guy in the corner ClassifiedRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    it's actually a barge and dock for warmachine. I've got the plans on how to finish, but I'm not to good at weathering.

    rucdoc on
    Original Creepy Janitor

    http://www.dust514stats.com
  • Options
    EinEin CaliforniaRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    So I posted this little sketch as to what I wanted to make my warboss' warbike look like:

    wazdakkabikeconcept.png

    It's a pretty decent drawing to start building from, so for the past two days or so in my spare time I've been working on smashing the requisite parts together.

    I started by making the general frame and rear of the bike...

    newbossbike2.jpg

    And worked my way up to the front forks so that I could get some definitive idea on how big this thing was going to be overall.

    newbossbike4.jpg

    I ripped some parts from a trukk kit I had lying around and started putting a proper engine together:

    newbossbike12.jpg

    And just now I finished adding a drive belt for the rear wheel...

    newbossbike13.jpg

    newbossbike14.jpg

    It needs a fair bit more detailing, and I have to fill in the empty area above the engine bitz, obviously, but that'll come in good time.

    Ein on
  • Options
    DraevenDraeven Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Looking slick, will make a very nice nob bike

    Draeven on
    Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."

  • Options
    GrimDog420GrimDog420 Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    ein, where do you get the raw plastic for your scratch builds?

    GrimDog420 on
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
  • Options
    GahmriousGahmrious Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Babies, beautiful newborn babies.

    Gahmrious on
  • Options
    Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt (effective against Russian warships) Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    GrimDog420 wrote: »
    ein, where do you get the raw plastic for your scratch builds?
    It's just varying thickness of plasticard, which just about any hobby shop that also sells supplies will stock. Also known as styrene, Evergreen is the most common brand I've seen around.

    Gabriel_Pitt on
  • Options
    JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Ah, but how do you cut it straight. Thats what always gets me.

    J on
  • Options
    UtsanomikoUtsanomiko Bros before Does Rollin' in the thlayRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Xacto knife against a straight-edge, most likely. Plus those are relatively small pieces, so it's easier to make straight lines.

    Utsanomiko on
    hmm.gif
  • Options
    HompHomp Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    And a bit of sanding I imagine. Files are good to have.

    Homp on
    chosen7171-1.gif
  • Options
    EinEin CaliforniaRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    J wrote: »
    Ah, but how do you cut it straight. Thats what always gets me.

    I will actually make a tutorial for styrene use on the warforge in the next week or two, but generally you score the line you want to make with a sharp knife on the surface of the sheet with a ruler and a blade, and then you can just snap the pieces apart and get a clean edge. You don't even have to cut all the way through - just score the line in and it gives the styrene a sharp edge to break on.

    Any mistakes that may happen can be sanded out.

    Ein on
  • Options
    DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    A metal ruler helps with this a bunch, I find.

    Dayspring on
    My Warhammer stuff online: Youtube Twitter Insta
  • Options
    JerickJerick Registered User regular
    edited September 2008
    Aight, I have another, what I think is a stupid question, but when you do washes do you do it before or after a foundation paint?

    Jerick on
  • Options
    Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt (effective against Russian warships) Registered User regular
    edited September 2008
    After. Otherwise the paint would cover it up.

    Gabriel_Pitt on
  • Options
    JerickJerick Registered User regular
    edited September 2008
    I've watched a couple tutorials online for doing washes, I'm using the new citadel washes and i'm putting it on the places where I want it to soak into the cracks and whatnot, and its basically leaving a blotch of ink, not actually going into the cracks. I'm a complete nub when doing this but I need to learn how to do it or my models are going to look scrub. Any help you guys can give me would be great.

    Jerick on
  • Options
    NiklasNiklas SwedenRegistered User regular
    edited September 2008
    Picked up my first Dreadnought during the weekend, and assembled it yesterday. Will try to take pictures while painting, and update in this thread if anyone finds it interesting to see it done in stages.

    Niklas on
  • Options
    GahmriousGahmrious Registered User regular
    edited September 2008
    So, I've spent a lot of time recently with this new color scheme on my Orks, and after about two finished models I decided that its how I want all of my Boyz to look on the table. So with that, I'd like some feedback on the colors used. After looking at them for a while they remind me of a cell shaded cartoon, just because its so much brighter than my last batch of Orks. Anyways, comments/concerns would be appreciated! =D


    skullz.jpg
    skullz2.jpg
    skullz3.jpg

    Gahmrious on
  • Options
    TalonZahnTalonZahn Registered User regular
    edited September 2008
    Jerick wrote: »
    I've watched a couple tutorials online for doing washes, I'm using the new citadel washes and i'm putting it on the places where I want it to soak into the cracks and whatnot, and its basically leaving a blotch of ink, not actually going into the cracks. I'm a complete nub when doing this but I need to learn how to do it or my models are going to look scrub. Any help you guys can give me would be great.

    Here's my recipe/method

    I buy a bottle of Future Floor Finish. Pour a bit out of the bottle, I like to waste crap. Then dump in an entire bottle of black ink. Refill the ink bottle with water, and then dump that in too. When I need some, I pop the top and put some into a smaller container. This also allows me to add more water if needed. It flows great into the cracks, and can be used forever. I still have my bottle from 4 years ago.

    Lemme see if I can find some links to good paneling/inking of mine.

    {EDIT}

    Here's a couple examples, the wash does leave a shine on it but it goes away when you seal your mini. Please ignore the bases! I haven't gotten around to finishing them. :P

    TalonZahn on
  • Options
    HompHomp Registered User regular
    edited September 2008
    Jerick wrote: »
    I've watched a couple tutorials online for doing washes, I'm using the new citadel washes and i'm putting it on the places where I want it to soak into the cracks and whatnot, and its basically leaving a blotch of ink, not actually going into the cracks. I'm a complete nub when doing this but I need to learn how to do it or my models are going to look scrub. Any help you guys can give me would be great.

    What you might be looking for in this case is an ink, instead of the new washes. An ink is just like a wash but it's not so viscous. You might still be able to find some inks in your LGS, but I don't think they're being sold off the GW site anymore.

    You could try watering down the new washes too. I've been doing that a little bit and it seems to work out pretty well. Give it a shot and see what happens.

    Homp on
    chosen7171-1.gif
  • Options
    LJDouglasLJDouglas Registered User regular
    edited September 2008
    This may seem like an odd request, but could some kindly individual give a quick list of the dimensions of a baneblade model. I need the height, width and length of the main body and the same for the turret, plus any other measurements would be appreciated. I'll be using them for a project at least as likely to meet with embarrassing failure as brilliant success. Either way, I'll post the results on Saturday.

    LJDouglas on
  • Options
    Sharp101Sharp101 TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited September 2008
    So here's some stuff I'm working on for my orks.

    First up, a Looted Wagon with Boomgun

    orks-01.jpg

    orks-02.jpg

    Its hard to see, but I cut the back end of the rhino down about half an inch so it looked kinda like a half track, then I built it back up with palsticard sides. I'll probably add big teeth (like the front of my battlewagon) to the insides of those side panels. It has light up eyes!


    Next is trukk I'm converting to use as a looted wagon with skorcha. I trying a unit of burnas and they need a ride, and I'm not using many heavy slots.

    Front end is almost done.

    orks-002.jpg

    orks-003.jpg

    orks-004.jpg

    I need advice for the back end.... I was thinking of building big armoured walls with big openings to burn out of. I kinda need to justify front and side armour 11...

    Sharp101 on
  • Options
    GrimDog420GrimDog420 Registered User regular
    edited September 2008
    loving the ork conversions in this thread, so many ideas to inspire (and by inspire i mean steal)

    GrimDog420 on
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
  • Options
    DraevenDraeven Registered User regular
    edited September 2008
    yeah, sharp just build up some walls on the side big and clunky with some openings for shooting out of. Looking good though. I dig all the smoke stacks coming out of the engine.

    Draeven on
    Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."

This discussion has been closed.