So my parents seem to be ready to get on the HD train. Before me, actually. I do all my gaming on my PC and watch TV for maybe an hour a week so I never cared to drop the money on a fancy television that I never really use.
Being the tech person in the family they asked me if I would be able to set it up for them since they didn't want to pay what the store charges. (Like a $200 fee on top of another $240ish for cables, I know the cables are a ripoff at $119 per.)
However having never owned an HDTV, could I set it up? They're looking at a 52" LCD Sony Bravia 120hz. Not sure on the exact model. The only thing I'm worried about is I've heard color calibration tossed around in my brief glances at HDTVs. I think I've heard some people talk about setup discs.
So aside from the cabling, is setup something one can do without a "pro" (fairly properly), and if so do I need anything special to do it? Or is it just overhyped and pretty much just setting up a big LCD monitor?
What will they be hooking up to it? Do they have a receiver/surround sound? It can be easy, it can be complicated. www.monoprice.com for the cables. I suggest you figure out ahead of time what they need so that you have them ready.
Professional calibration is good (very good), but you can get a calibration disc from AVSforums (download it and burn it as a dvd) or just use what the other users have theirs set at.
How far do they sit from their TV? That has a big effect on the size range they should shoot for.
Improvolone on
Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
They're simple folk. The only reason they're even getting a new TV is because they're redoing their house and want to streamline the way the living room looks. No home theater at all. Going to use the TV speakers. They have a trash $30 DVD player, an equally garbage VCR, and a Dish Network satellite set-top box.
I told them they'll need to get in contact with Dish to get a new box for HD/HDMI. Done some more looking around and the calibration doesn't seem like it will be a big issue. Now I'm mostly concerned with the VCR/DVD player. Although I can probably convince them to get new players my mother has refused to abandon VHS, so a VCR is definitely going to be in the mix.
I believe they're going for the (cut and paste inc) Sony Bravia W-Series KDL-52W4100 52-Inch 1080p 120Hz LCD HDTV, which apparently has 3 composite inputs. So they can keep the old gear it seems, just not sure how terrible it's going to end up looking on the television.
edit.. preliminary supposition is that I'll have an HDMI connection from dish box to the tv, and composite connections from dvd/vcr players to the tv. Which sounds simple.
FightTest on
MOBA DOTA.
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LudiousI just wanted a sandwich A temporally dislocated QuiznosRegistered Userregular
Full HD widescreen resolution of 1920×1080p, the highest resolution of HD sources for the best picture quality
4 HDMI with HDCP - connect multiple HD sources (HD settop box, Blu-ray, game console or digital camcorder)
Invisible sound system that blends perfectly with the design of the cabinet
25 watt with BBE for powerful sound and great voice clarity, BBE high definition sound enables you to experience real natural music, speech intelligibility with rich and clear audible vocals
Dolby Digital output for connection to a home theatre system
EasyLink uses the HDMI CEC industry standard protocol to share functionality between connected devices and the TV. Only one remote control is needed to operate main functionalities on your TV and connected devices. Works with all HDMI CEC certified products.
Settings assistant for effortless personalized TV settings
Built-in ATSC & QAM tuner for reception of over-the-air and unscrambled HD cable programs
USB connector allows access to jpeg photos and mp3 music on most USB-sticks (USB memory-class device). Plug the USB into the slot at the side of the TV and access your photos or music files. You can easily view and share your photos and music
Specifications:
Picture/Display
Aspect ratio: 16:9 Widescreen
Brightness: 500 cd/m²
Dynamic screen contrast: 29000:1
Response time (typical): 5 ms
Viewing angle: 178º (H) / 178º (V)
Diagonal screen size (inch): 42 inch
Diagonal screen size (metric): 107 cm
Visible screen diagonal (inch): 42.02 inch
Panel resolution: 1920x1080p
Picture enhancement: 3/2 - 2/2 motion pull down, 3D Combfilter, Active Control + Light sensor, Dynamic contrast enhancement, Progressive Scan
Supported Display Resolution
Computer formats: 640 x 480 60Hz
800 x 600 60Hz
1024 x 768 60Hz
1280 x 768 60Hz
1280 x 1024 60Hz
1360 x 768 60Hz
1920 x 1080i 60Hz
1920 x 1080p 60Hz
Video formats: 480i 60Hz
480p 60Hz
720p 60Hz
1080i 60Hz
1080p 60Hz
Sound
Equalizer: 5-bands
Output power (RMS): 25W
Sound Enhancement: Incredible Surround
Sound System: Dolby Digital (AC-3), BBE
Built-in speakers: 4
Convenience
Child Protection: Child Lock+Parental Control
Clock: On main display, Sleep Timer
Ease of Installation: Autostore
Ease of Use: 4 favorite lists, Auto Volume Leveller (AVL), Channel list, Settings assistant Wizard, Side Control
Remote Control: TV
Screen Format Adjustments: 4:3, Auto Format, Movie expand 14:9, Movie expand 16:9, Super Zoom, Widescreen, unscaled (1080p dot by dot)
Multimedia Applications
Multimedia connections: USB memory class device
Playback Formats: MP3, Slideshow files (.alb), JPEG Still pictures
Tuner/Reception/Transmission
Aerial Input: 75 ohm F-type
TV system: ATSC, NTSC
Video Playback: NTSC
Cable: Unscrambled Digital Cable -QAM
Tuner bands: Hyperband, S-Channel, UHF, VHF
Connectivity
AV 1: Audio L/R in, YPbPr
AV 2: Audio L/R in, YPbPr
AV 3: CVBS in, S-Video in
HDMI 1: HDMI v1.3
HDMI 2: HDMI v1.3
HDMI 3: Analog audio L/R in, HDMI v1.3
EasyLink (HDMI-CEC): One touch play, Power status, System info (menu language), System standby
Front / Side connections: HDMI, S-video in, CVBS in, Audio L/R in, Headphone out, USB
Audio Output - Digital: Coaxial (cinch)
Power
Ambient temperature: 5 °C to 40 °C
Mains power: 110-240V, 50-60Hz
Power consumption: 260 W
Standby power consumption: < 1 W
Dimensions
Set Width (inch): 41.19 inch
Set Height (inch): 25.39 inch
Set Depth (inch): 3.48 inch
Set width (with stand) (inch): 41.19 inch
Set height (with stand) (inch): 28.19 inch
Set depth (with stand) (inch): 10.31 inch
Weight incl. Packaging (lb): 64.0
Product weight (lb): 51.8 (with stand), 42.3 (without stand)
Box width (inch): 45.31 inch
Box height (inch): 31.22 inch
Box depth (inch): 13.11 inch
VESA wall mount compatible: 400 x 400 mm
In the box:
Philips 42TA648BX Television
Power Cable
Remote Control
Users Guide
I know some people are afraid of recertified, but I did it. I am going to get an extra warranty from squaretrade just in case.
So my parents seem to be ready to get on the HD train. Before me, actually. I do all my gaming on my PC and watch TV for maybe an hour a week so I never cared to drop the money on a fancy television that I never really use.
Being the tech person in the family they asked me if I would be able to set it up for them since they didn't want to pay what the store charges. (Like a $200 fee on top of another $240ish for cables, I know the cables are a ripoff at $119 per.)
Orange'd for
Can they take them back? They paid about $110 too much per.
However having never owned an HDTV, could I set it up? They're looking at a 52" LCD Sony Bravia 120hz. Not sure on the exact model. The only thing I'm worried about is I've heard color calibration tossed around in my brief glances at HDTVs. I think I've heard some people talk about setup discs.
So aside from the cabling, is setup something one can do without a "pro" (fairly properly), and if so do I need anything special to do it? Or is it just overhyped and pretty much just setting up a big LCD monitor?
If you're reasonably competent with A/V stuff, you can do it easily. At the end of the day, it's plugging the right stuff into the right holes, and keeping track of what goes where. What it boils down to is:
1) Stick all of the components where they go.
2) Figure out which cables will be used to connect which components to each other.
3) Attach one end of a cable to a component, attach the other end to the TV, and note which input.
4) Repeat 3) until you run out of components.
5) Navigate the TV menus to get to the input selection. For each input listed, change the label to match what it's connected to, if possible. Otherwise, just set it to something reasonable. The settings are things like "Game", "DVD", "Satellite", "Bluray", and so on. So if you have, say, 3 game systems, you might have to set them all to "Game" and recall which is which, or call them other things. In a pinch, they can be called things like "HDMI1". Assuming the set uses the same menu structure as mine - Sony's XMB - it's pretty easy.
6) Go back and tidy up the cables, or whatever.
This assumes you're not connecting all of the components to a receiver and then running a single cable to the TV. If so, then it gets really simple, and you can avoid 4) and 5).
After that, your TV works, and anything else is optional. And by "optional", I mean "if you don't calibrate your TV you are dumb and I will smite you." Grab either Digital Video Essentials or Avia (do you have Netflix? they have DVE - make sure you get the HD version if you have a BD player). They walk you through the process of tuning your settings. It boils down to displaying an image, then telling you, "Now go adjust the contrast until you can't see this white square anymore" and other things. it's really simple.
In short, no, do not pay some fucking delivery monkey $200 to set up your television unless you are scared of technology or unless you're running wires through the wall and the money covers that sort of business.
ElJeffe on
I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
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Madpandasuburbs west of chicagoRegistered Userregular
edited January 2009
So at some point in the future I will be looking at getting a nice big assed tv. I plan to use it as a computer monitor also. My questions are -
1. How much more of a performance hog will PC games be jumping from 1680x1050 to 1980x1080 if at all.
2. Is there much input lag difference between a 22 inch 2 ms gtg tn panel lcd and a mid range lcd/plasma tv?
So at some point in the future I will be looking at getting a nice big assed tv. I plan to use it as a computer monitor also. My questions are -
1. How much more of a performance hog will PC games be jumping from 1680x1050 to 1980x1080 if at all.
2. Is there much input lag difference between a 22 inch 2 ms gtg tn panel lcd and a mid range lcd/plasma tv?
For 2, the lag on decent (ie, non-bargain-basement) LCD and plasma TVs is generally small enough that it's only even noticeable on rhythm games (eg, Rock Band). And those games generally have calibration functions that eliminate the problem. So lag shouldn't be an insurmountable problem on any non-shit TV you buy.
ElJeffe on
I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
The larger problem is that there is a dearth of information out there regarding input lag on TVs; reviewers usually don't account for it, from what I've seen. Although perhaps if you dig through a site like AVSForum you could find the information.
OremLK on
My zombie survival life simulator They Don't Sleep is out now on Steam if you want to check it out.
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LudiousI just wanted a sandwich A temporally dislocated QuiznosRegistered Userregular
edited January 2009
Ok guys, that TV I bought a few posts up? I have a question. I have an Original Xbox360 with the HD DVD addon etc. I currently use VGA cables to get 1080p on my television in my living room. I want to move my 360 back to the bedroom where the new Philips is going. Problem is, the new Philips doesn't have a VGA port.
All of the stuff I google about VGA to HDMI for the 360 dates back to 06 and 07. I found a mad catz HDMI conversion kit, but the reviews say it doesn't do 1080p upconversion on DVD's or HDDVDs so that's useless.
What are my options for across the board 1080p on an old x360 with a TV that only has hdmi ports?
How badly do you need 1080p for HD-DVDs? Because I can pretty much promise you that it won't do you any good outside of that. 720p is the maximum most (if not all) Xbox 360 games are capable of.
If all else fails, you could save up another $200 and grab a new Xbox 360 Arcade, which has HDMI and the added advantage of far less likelihood of RROD (if you snag a Jasper unit).
OremLK on
My zombie survival life simulator They Don't Sleep is out now on Steam if you want to check it out.
They're simple folk. The only reason they're even getting a new TV is because they're redoing their house and want to streamline the way the living room looks. No home theater at all. Going to use the TV speakers. They have a trash $30 DVD player, an equally garbage VCR, and a Dish Network satellite set-top box.
I told them they'll need to get in contact with Dish to get a new box for HD/HDMI. Done some more looking around and the calibration doesn't seem like it will be a big issue. Now I'm mostly concerned with the VCR/DVD player. Although I can probably convince them to get new players my mother has refused to abandon VHS, so a VCR is definitely going to be in the mix.
I believe they're going for the (cut and paste inc) Sony Bravia W-Series KDL-52W4100 52-Inch 1080p 120Hz LCD HDTV, which apparently has 3 composite inputs. So they can keep the old gear it seems, just not sure how terrible it's going to end up looking on the television.
edit.. preliminary supposition is that I'll have an HDMI connection from dish box to the tv, and composite connections from dvd/vcr players to the tv. Which sounds simple.
Thats the exact model Sony I have and its fantastic. I will say that they should at least buy a DVD player that will upconvert to 1080p over HDMI, it makes a huge difference and can be had at Best Buy for around 50 bucks. For calibrating I just used some settings I found on the AVS forum then tweaked them a little bit to my liking using a couple blu rays. I wouldn't bother with any sort of disc or anything if there not viewing high def content, even then its not really needed.
How would it compare to like a 60 inch kuro? Its going to be used for gaming gaming and blu ray watching.
First off, you better be able to control the room it's in. Unless the projector is bright enough to stand on its own, which that one may be able to do. I gotta be honest though at that price I think the kuro would be better. You can get amazing HD projectors less than $5000. Through my friends I've seen awesome results come out of Optoma. Just remember that when you get a projector you are signing on to replacing bulbs.
To be honest, the only real use I see for a projector is to get above that 60" level. If you're not going for a larger screen size than 60" get a TV.
How would it compare to like a 60 inch kuro? Its going to be used for gaming gaming and blu ray watching.
First off, you better be able to control the room it's in. Unless the projector is bright enough to stand on its own, which that one may be able to do. I gotta be honest though at that price I think the kuro would be better. You can get amazing HD projectors less than $5000. Through my friends I've seen awesome results come out of Optoma. Just remember that when you get a projector you are signing on to replacing bulbs.
To be honest, the only real use I see for a projector is to get above that 60" level. If you're not going for a larger screen size than 60" get a TV.
Instead of dropping $5000 on a projector, I'd drop maybe $3000 on a projector and $2000 preparing the room for a projector. You need a very flat surface painted stark white, and you're better served having something permanently down than a pull-down screen. The room needs to be very dark to get the best results, and you should get a ceiling mount for the projector. Some remote way of controlling the lighting would be good for this sort of set-up, so you're not fumbling around with the lights in the dark if and when you turn the projector off, though now we're into "fuckawesome" rather than "necessary".
And yeah, projectors are for if you want an 80"+ screen. If you want 60" or less, just get a plain TV. A lot more versatile.
ElJeffe on
I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
The $5000 was for the projector alone, we were already planning on building a permanent screen for it and mounting it on the ceiling. The main reason for getting a projector was for getting a larger screen. I just said 60 inch Kuro because thats the largest size I could find for that TV. I did forgot about having to replace bulbs, which is something to think about.
Well, it's not that you can't perceive the benefits of 1080p on sub-50" sets, it's just that there are so few realistic setups in which it's practical to sit so close.
Please excuse my ignorance, but would you mind expanding on that?
Im looking into getting a 40"-47" LCD for mainly 360 gaming and movie watching, and am really having a hard time deciding if I should go for a 720 or a 1080 set.
Any advice on the whole 720 vs 1080 (or anything TV related) would be appreciated.
Well, it's not that you can't perceive the benefits of 1080p on sub-50" sets, it's just that there are so few realistic setups in which it's practical to sit so close.
Please excuse my ignorance, but would you mind expanding on that?
Im looking into getting a 40"-47" LCD for mainly 360 gaming and movie watching, and am really having a hard time deciding if I should go for a 720 or a 1080 set.
Any advice on the whole 720 vs 1080 (or anything TV related) would be appreciated.
Well, it's not that you can't perceive the benefits of 1080p on sub-50" sets, it's just that there are so few realistic setups in which it's practical to sit so close.
Please excuse my ignorance, but would you mind expanding on that?
Im looking into getting a 40"-47" LCD for mainly 360 gaming and movie watching, and am really having a hard time deciding if I should go for a 720 or a 1080 set.
Any advice on the whole 720 vs 1080 (or anything TV related) would be appreciated.
Look at the pretty chart in the OP.
I did. At 40-50" range and around 6 feet away,the difference between 720 and 1080 would be noticeable.
I helped a friend setup his media room for a front projector: 1080p projector, throwing a 12-13 foot diagonal image, onto a knocked-down textured wall (almost like orange peel), painted with Behr super-white interior wall paint (I think that's the brand and type) with a black painted surround to aid contrast. Looks beautiful. He was planning to buy a screen and the paint was only a temporary fix but the screens he was looking at were crazy expensive and he doubted they could offer much improvement. Upshot: if you have perfect light control (a dedicated room with no windows) you might try a paint solution first to see how results pan out.
Well, it's not that you can't perceive the benefits of 1080p on sub-50" sets, it's just that there are so few realistic setups in which it's practical to sit so close.
Please excuse my ignorance, but would you mind expanding on that?
Im looking into getting a 40"-47" LCD for mainly 360 gaming and movie watching, and am really having a hard time deciding if I should go for a 720 or a 1080 set.
Any advice on the whole 720 vs 1080 (or anything TV related) would be appreciated.
Look at the pretty chart in the OP.
I did. At 40-50" range and around 6 feet away,the difference between 720 and 1080 would be noticeable.
I'm asking Blue what setup's he is referring to.
...and I think we're all talking about the same thing. How many living rooms are set up 6 feet away from a tv? I live in a tiny 1B/1B and I don't even sit that close to my 27" CRT.
5-6' is my ideal viewing distance actually. Plenty of room to walk between the couch and the TV, and close enough that I don't need my glasses to watch. Also, wired game controllers actually reach at that distance.
I would say at 6' you would definitely notice the advantages of 1080p on a screen larger than 40". Smaller than that and it's kind of pointless.
OremLK on
My zombie survival life simulator They Don't Sleep is out now on Steam if you want to check it out.
Second is age. Most manufacturers are going 1080 for all their larger sets, so buying a 720p large tv means you are more likely buying something that's been sitting on a shelf for a long time and possibly has out dated components.
The $5000 was for the projector alone, we were already planning on building a permanent screen for it and mounting it on the ceiling. The main reason for getting a projector was for getting a larger screen. I just said 60 inch Kuro because thats the largest size I could find for that TV. I did forgot about having to replace bulbs, which is something to think about.
It's a bit more than $5000, but you may want to take a look at the JVC RS-20u. It's got a higher native contrast ratio than the Sony you're looking at, should have very nice color reproduction, and it uses UHP lamps (10,000 hour life span as opposed to 2,000-4,000 for Xenon). Looks like you can get it online for $5500 or thereabouts.
Also, if you're going to consider using paint rather than a screen, keep in mind that any flaws in the wall will show up painfully obviously. In other words, be ready to do some sanding if you go that route.
Second is age. Most manufacturers are going 1080 for all their larger sets, so buying a 720p large tv means you are more likely buying something that's been sitting on a shelf for a long time and possibly has out dated components.
Anyone have experience with the Toshiba REGZAs? Saw the deals on newegg and have been really considering it. Still need to try and find one in person to take a look at before I buy anything though.
Can anyone give me advice on purchasing a used tv? My brother just bought a rather large plasma tv and no longer needs his 36 inch Sony CRT(I wish I had the model number now, it is at the least 780p, might have been 1080p). He's obviously a trusted buyer, and when we talk about it more, I imagine I'll find that there have been no problems with the tv. He did a lot of research when he bought that tv, as well as his new one, and he doesn't think the new one actually has better picture quality, it's just larger. So I'm presuming that the quality of the Sony is quite good.
I don't know about the relative lifespans of CRTs, but this one is probably about 4 years old. Would you guys think that a $375-400 price tag is a reasonable/great deal? He didn't think he'd offer it for any more than that because he thinks I could spend $800 on a brand new 36 inch flat panel.
Sony CRTs are usually very good, but the resale market on them is shrinking. It doesn't help that they are not only bigger, but weigh a fucking ton.
Is it widescreen?
Why don't you look around on craigslist and see what you could get for $400. I'll wager you can get something nicer. I paid $400 for a great 32'' Sony CRT (Trinitron) two years ago.
Improvolone on
Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
CRTs last pretty much forever, and they don't really degrade, so buying his TV - assuming it's in good shape - is like buying it new. Thing is, though, $400 is probably a lot to ask for even a new 36" CRT HDTV, given that for a couple hundred more you can get the same size TV in a flat-panel.
If I was selling something like that to family, I wouldn't ask more than a couple hundred. Point of fact, I recently gave away a 32" SD CRT to my parents-in-law. But what you're willing to pay is entirely up to you. See what's on the market right now, gauge prices, and use that to determine what you're willing to pay.
edit: I just checked Amazon, and someone is selling a used 36" CRT HDTV for $800. I content this person is fucking crazy.
ElJeffe on
I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
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Madpandasuburbs west of chicagoRegistered Userregular
edited January 2009
So how good are built in tv speakers nowadays?
I would like to rely on them solely as my receiver/speaker setup currently puts out too much bass for an apartment, the only way to get it manageable is to lower the volume so much that I can't hear very well. All bass boost etc is down and eq is set to flat already.
I am looking at the Samsung LN46A750 vs the 650, the only real difference I care about is the 750 has a subwoofer. I would be primarily gaming with this.
TV speakers are fine. I mean, if that's what you got, that's what you got. If you're trying to compare them to dedicated audio set-ups, don't. The best TV speakers suck compared to shitty external speaker systems.
That said, your bass problem makes no sense. If you can't lower the bass on your system without dropping your volume to unlistenable levels, then either the people complaining are whiny bitches who would still complain about TV speakers anyway, or there's something wrong with your system. Bass is not supposed to be that boomy.
ElJeffe on
I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
I agree with ElJeffe for the most part. Sure TV speakers are fine, but I think upgrading your sound to a moderate surround system (or at least 3.1) is more important than upgrading to a "nice" TV.
He's right about the bass too.
Improvolone on
Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
Almost tempt to get the 32" XBR6 and a 80GB PS3 for $1099 at Worst Buy. Except I already have a backwards compatible 80 gigger that stays in my room. I guess I could place the new PS3 in the living room or something. Good deal? Bad deal for me?
animale on
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LudiousI just wanted a sandwich A temporally dislocated QuiznosRegistered Userregular
edited January 2009
Well hoo freaking ray.
You know that saying if it sounds like its too good to be true it probably is?
Yeah. The Philips I ordered from woot?
DOA. Won't power on. When I plug in the ac adapter, you can hear that initial clickhum LCDs make.
When I try to press power on the tv and the remote..no dice. I've tried different outlets, hooking up components, taking them off etc.
Animale: You could buy the pair and then eBay the PS3. You'd probably get close to retail for a Never Been Opened PS3.
Ludious: What's the return policy like? I mean, unless you bought it out of the back of a van, it's gotta have some sort of return policy, right?
ElJeffe on
I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
Is it worth $400 to you, or would you rather spend $400 on something else?
Improvolone on
Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
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Madpandasuburbs west of chicagoRegistered Userregular
edited January 2009
Figured out the bass issue, apparently turning DSP on adds much more emphasis on bass. Turning it off and setting the EQ to flat or BGM (reduced bass/treble) makes the bass level resonable for music. Will have to try 360 later.
Think i might need a new receiver/amp soon anyway, this one only has RCA inputs/outputs. Will that cause an issue if I am using HDMI from 360 to TV? Or once its going from tv to receiver is rca fine?
Ludious: What's the return policy like? I mean, unless you bought it out of the back of a van, it's gotta have some sort of return policy, right?
Woot would take it back if I really wanted but then I am out a $1000+ TV for $650. I called Philips. They started a ticket on it and got me in touch with the local authorized repair guy. He's going to come out this week and try to fix it and if he can't I might get a brand new one. (I kinda hope I get a brand new one)
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Being the tech person in the family they asked me if I would be able to set it up for them since they didn't want to pay what the store charges. (Like a $200 fee on top of another $240ish for cables, I know the cables are a ripoff at $119 per.)
However having never owned an HDTV, could I set it up? They're looking at a 52" LCD Sony Bravia 120hz. Not sure on the exact model. The only thing I'm worried about is I've heard color calibration tossed around in my brief glances at HDTVs. I think I've heard some people talk about setup discs.
So aside from the cabling, is setup something one can do without a "pro" (fairly properly), and if so do I need anything special to do it? Or is it just overhyped and pretty much just setting up a big LCD monitor?
www.monoprice.com for the cables. I suggest you figure out ahead of time what they need so that you have them ready.
Professional calibration is good (very good), but you can get a calibration disc from AVSforums (download it and burn it as a dvd) or just use what the other users have theirs set at.
How far do they sit from their TV? That has a big effect on the size range they should shoot for.
I told them they'll need to get in contact with Dish to get a new box for HD/HDMI. Done some more looking around and the calibration doesn't seem like it will be a big issue. Now I'm mostly concerned with the VCR/DVD player. Although I can probably convince them to get new players my mother has refused to abandon VHS, so a VCR is definitely going to be in the mix.
I believe they're going for the (cut and paste inc) Sony Bravia W-Series KDL-52W4100 52-Inch 1080p 120Hz LCD HDTV, which apparently has 3 composite inputs. So they can keep the old gear it seems, just not sure how terrible it's going to end up looking on the television.
edit.. preliminary supposition is that I'll have an HDMI connection from dish box to the tv, and composite connections from dvd/vcr players to the tv. Which sounds simple.
http://www.woot.com/
Philips 42” 1080p LCD HDTV
$649.99
+ $5 shipping
Condition: Recertified Product: 1 Philips 42TA648BX 42” 1080p LCD HDTV with 4 HDMI ports
Features:
4 HDMI with HDCP - connect multiple HD sources (HD settop box, Blu-ray, game console or digital camcorder)
Invisible sound system that blends perfectly with the design of the cabinet
25 watt with BBE for powerful sound and great voice clarity, BBE high definition sound enables you to experience real natural music, speech intelligibility with rich and clear audible vocals
Dolby Digital output for connection to a home theatre system
EasyLink uses the HDMI CEC industry standard protocol to share functionality between connected devices and the TV. Only one remote control is needed to operate main functionalities on your TV and connected devices. Works with all HDMI CEC certified products.
Settings assistant for effortless personalized TV settings
Built-in ATSC & QAM tuner for reception of over-the-air and unscrambled HD cable programs
USB connector allows access to jpeg photos and mp3 music on most USB-sticks (USB memory-class device). Plug the USB into the slot at the side of the TV and access your photos or music files. You can easily view and share your photos and music
Specifications:
Picture/Display
Aspect ratio: 16:9 Widescreen
Brightness: 500 cd/m²
Dynamic screen contrast: 29000:1
Response time (typical): 5 ms
Viewing angle: 178º (H) / 178º (V)
Diagonal screen size (inch): 42 inch
Diagonal screen size (metric): 107 cm
Visible screen diagonal (inch): 42.02 inch
Panel resolution: 1920x1080p
Picture enhancement: 3/2 - 2/2 motion pull down, 3D Combfilter, Active Control + Light sensor, Dynamic contrast enhancement, Progressive Scan
Supported Display Resolution
Computer formats: 640 x 480 60Hz
800 x 600 60Hz
1024 x 768 60Hz
1280 x 768 60Hz
1280 x 1024 60Hz
1360 x 768 60Hz
1920 x 1080i 60Hz
1920 x 1080p 60Hz
Video formats: 480i 60Hz
480p 60Hz
720p 60Hz
1080i 60Hz
1080p 60Hz
Sound
Equalizer: 5-bands
Output power (RMS): 25W
Sound Enhancement: Incredible Surround
Sound System: Dolby Digital (AC-3), BBE
Built-in speakers: 4
Convenience
Child Protection: Child Lock+Parental Control
Clock: On main display, Sleep Timer
Ease of Installation: Autostore
Ease of Use: 4 favorite lists, Auto Volume Leveller (AVL), Channel list, Settings assistant Wizard, Side Control
Remote Control: TV
Screen Format Adjustments: 4:3, Auto Format, Movie expand 14:9, Movie expand 16:9, Super Zoom, Widescreen, unscaled (1080p dot by dot)
Multimedia Applications
Multimedia connections: USB memory class device
Playback Formats: MP3, Slideshow files (.alb), JPEG Still pictures
Tuner/Reception/Transmission
Aerial Input: 75 ohm F-type
TV system: ATSC, NTSC
Video Playback: NTSC
Cable: Unscrambled Digital Cable -QAM
Tuner bands: Hyperband, S-Channel, UHF, VHF
Connectivity
AV 1: Audio L/R in, YPbPr
AV 2: Audio L/R in, YPbPr
AV 3: CVBS in, S-Video in
HDMI 1: HDMI v1.3
HDMI 2: HDMI v1.3
HDMI 3: Analog audio L/R in, HDMI v1.3
EasyLink (HDMI-CEC): One touch play, Power status, System info (menu language), System standby
Front / Side connections: HDMI, S-video in, CVBS in, Audio L/R in, Headphone out, USB
Audio Output - Digital: Coaxial (cinch)
Power
Ambient temperature: 5 °C to 40 °C
Mains power: 110-240V, 50-60Hz
Power consumption: 260 W
Standby power consumption: < 1 W
Dimensions
Set Width (inch): 41.19 inch
Set Height (inch): 25.39 inch
Set Depth (inch): 3.48 inch
Set width (with stand) (inch): 41.19 inch
Set height (with stand) (inch): 28.19 inch
Set depth (with stand) (inch): 10.31 inch
Weight incl. Packaging (lb): 64.0
Product weight (lb): 51.8 (with stand), 42.3 (without stand)
Box width (inch): 45.31 inch
Box height (inch): 31.22 inch
Box depth (inch): 13.11 inch
VESA wall mount compatible: 400 x 400 mm
In the box:
Philips 42TA648BX Television
Power Cable
Remote Control
Users Guide
I know some people are afraid of recertified, but I did it. I am going to get an extra warranty from squaretrade just in case.
What do you guys think?
Orange'd for
Can they take them back? They paid about $110 too much per.
If you're reasonably competent with A/V stuff, you can do it easily. At the end of the day, it's plugging the right stuff into the right holes, and keeping track of what goes where. What it boils down to is:
1) Stick all of the components where they go.
2) Figure out which cables will be used to connect which components to each other.
3) Attach one end of a cable to a component, attach the other end to the TV, and note which input.
4) Repeat 3) until you run out of components.
5) Navigate the TV menus to get to the input selection. For each input listed, change the label to match what it's connected to, if possible. Otherwise, just set it to something reasonable. The settings are things like "Game", "DVD", "Satellite", "Bluray", and so on. So if you have, say, 3 game systems, you might have to set them all to "Game" and recall which is which, or call them other things. In a pinch, they can be called things like "HDMI1". Assuming the set uses the same menu structure as mine - Sony's XMB - it's pretty easy.
6) Go back and tidy up the cables, or whatever.
This assumes you're not connecting all of the components to a receiver and then running a single cable to the TV. If so, then it gets really simple, and you can avoid 4) and 5).
After that, your TV works, and anything else is optional. And by "optional", I mean "if you don't calibrate your TV you are dumb and I will smite you." Grab either Digital Video Essentials or Avia (do you have Netflix? they have DVE - make sure you get the HD version if you have a BD player). They walk you through the process of tuning your settings. It boils down to displaying an image, then telling you, "Now go adjust the contrast until you can't see this white square anymore" and other things. it's really simple.
In short, no, do not pay some fucking delivery monkey $200 to set up your television unless you are scared of technology or unless you're running wires through the wall and the money covers that sort of business.
1. How much more of a performance hog will PC games be jumping from 1680x1050 to 1980x1080 if at all.
2. Is there much input lag difference between a 22 inch 2 ms gtg tn panel lcd and a mid range lcd/plasma tv?
Steam/PSN/XBL/Minecraft / LoL / - Benevicious | WoW - Duckwood - Rajhek
For 2, the lag on decent (ie, non-bargain-basement) LCD and plasma TVs is generally small enough that it's only even noticeable on rhythm games (eg, Rock Band). And those games generally have calibration functions that eliminate the problem. So lag shouldn't be an insurmountable problem on any non-shit TV you buy.
All of the stuff I google about VGA to HDMI for the 360 dates back to 06 and 07. I found a mad catz HDMI conversion kit, but the reviews say it doesn't do 1080p upconversion on DVD's or HDDVDs so that's useless.
What are my options for across the board 1080p on an old x360 with a TV that only has hdmi ports?
If all else fails, you could save up another $200 and grab a new Xbox 360 Arcade, which has HDMI and the added advantage of far less likelihood of RROD (if you snag a Jasper unit).
Thats the exact model Sony I have and its fantastic. I will say that they should at least buy a DVD player that will upconvert to 1080p over HDMI, it makes a huge difference and can be had at Best Buy for around 50 bucks. For calibrating I just used some settings I found on the AVS forum then tweaked them a little bit to my liking using a couple blu rays. I wouldn't bother with any sort of disc or anything if there not viewing high def content, even then its not really needed.
Whats the consensus on projectors under $5000? I'm moving into a new house in February with an extra room we agreed to turn into a dedicated home theater. And my dad suggested getting a projector. The one we were looking at is this
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8589235&st=sony+projector&lp=2&type=product&cp=1&id=1190678467277
How would it compare to like a 60 inch kuro? Its going to be used for gaming gaming and blu ray watching.
First off, you better be able to control the room it's in. Unless the projector is bright enough to stand on its own, which that one may be able to do. I gotta be honest though at that price I think the kuro would be better. You can get amazing HD projectors less than $5000. Through my friends I've seen awesome results come out of Optoma. Just remember that when you get a projector you are signing on to replacing bulbs.
To be honest, the only real use I see for a projector is to get above that 60" level. If you're not going for a larger screen size than 60" get a TV.
PSN: TheScrublet
Instead of dropping $5000 on a projector, I'd drop maybe $3000 on a projector and $2000 preparing the room for a projector. You need a very flat surface painted stark white, and you're better served having something permanently down than a pull-down screen. The room needs to be very dark to get the best results, and you should get a ceiling mount for the projector. Some remote way of controlling the lighting would be good for this sort of set-up, so you're not fumbling around with the lights in the dark if and when you turn the projector off, though now we're into "fuckawesome" rather than "necessary".
And yeah, projectors are for if you want an 80"+ screen. If you want 60" or less, just get a plain TV. A lot more versatile.
Please excuse my ignorance, but would you mind expanding on that?
Im looking into getting a 40"-47" LCD for mainly 360 gaming and movie watching, and am really having a hard time deciding if I should go for a 720 or a 1080 set.
Any advice on the whole 720 vs 1080 (or anything TV related) would be appreciated.
Look at the pretty chart in the OP.
I did. At 40-50" range and around 6 feet away,the difference between 720 and 1080 would be noticeable.
I'm asking Blue what setup's he is referring to.
...and I think we're all talking about the same thing. How many living rooms are set up 6 feet away from a tv? I live in a tiny 1B/1B and I don't even sit that close to my 27" CRT.
I would say at 6' you would definitely notice the advantages of 1080p on a screen larger than 40". Smaller than that and it's kind of pointless.
720p 40" Samsung: $800 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889102207)
1080p 40" Toshiba: $800 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889253161)
Second is age. Most manufacturers are going 1080 for all their larger sets, so buying a 720p large tv means you are more likely buying something that's been sitting on a shelf for a long time and possibly has out dated components.
It's a bit more than $5000, but you may want to take a look at the JVC RS-20u. It's got a higher native contrast ratio than the Sony you're looking at, should have very nice color reproduction, and it uses UHP lamps (10,000 hour life span as opposed to 2,000-4,000 for Xenon). Looks like you can get it online for $5500 or thereabouts.
Also, if you're going to consider using paint rather than a screen, keep in mind that any flaws in the wall will show up painfully obviously. In other words, be ready to do some sanding if you go that route.
Anyone have experience with the Toshiba REGZAs? Saw the deals on newegg and have been really considering it. Still need to try and find one in person to take a look at before I buy anything though.
I don't know about the relative lifespans of CRTs, but this one is probably about 4 years old. Would you guys think that a $375-400 price tag is a reasonable/great deal? He didn't think he'd offer it for any more than that because he thinks I could spend $800 on a brand new 36 inch flat panel.
Is it widescreen?
Why don't you look around on craigslist and see what you could get for $400. I'll wager you can get something nicer. I paid $400 for a great 32'' Sony CRT (Trinitron) two years ago.
However, the linked tv seems cheaper than the other offers I'm seeing on Craigslist.
If I was selling something like that to family, I wouldn't ask more than a couple hundred. Point of fact, I recently gave away a 32" SD CRT to my parents-in-law. But what you're willing to pay is entirely up to you. See what's on the market right now, gauge prices, and use that to determine what you're willing to pay.
edit: I just checked Amazon, and someone is selling a used 36" CRT HDTV for $800. I content this person is fucking crazy.
I would like to rely on them solely as my receiver/speaker setup currently puts out too much bass for an apartment, the only way to get it manageable is to lower the volume so much that I can't hear very well. All bass boost etc is down and eq is set to flat already.
I am looking at the Samsung LN46A750 vs the 650, the only real difference I care about is the 750 has a subwoofer. I would be primarily gaming with this.
Steam/PSN/XBL/Minecraft / LoL / - Benevicious | WoW - Duckwood - Rajhek
That said, your bass problem makes no sense. If you can't lower the bass on your system without dropping your volume to unlistenable levels, then either the people complaining are whiny bitches who would still complain about TV speakers anyway, or there's something wrong with your system. Bass is not supposed to be that boomy.
He's right about the bass too.
You know that saying if it sounds like its too good to be true it probably is?
Yeah. The Philips I ordered from woot?
DOA. Won't power on. When I plug in the ac adapter, you can hear that initial clickhum LCDs make.
When I try to press power on the tv and the remote..no dice. I've tried different outlets, hooking up components, taking them off etc.
It's like wiring is disconnected somewhere.
Ludious:
Here
34 inch, 2 HDMI inputs, 1080i
Being offered at 400. Looking at craiglist, it can be hard to get a good comparison of the item with so little info given.
Think i might need a new receiver/amp soon anyway, this one only has RCA inputs/outputs. Will that cause an issue if I am using HDMI from 360 to TV? Or once its going from tv to receiver is rca fine?
Steam/PSN/XBL/Minecraft / LoL / - Benevicious | WoW - Duckwood - Rajhek
It might be worth $400 to me, until or unless I can find out that I can actually find similar tvs for $100 less.
Woot would take it back if I really wanted but then I am out a $1000+ TV for $650. I called Philips. They started a ticket on it and got me in touch with the local authorized repair guy. He's going to come out this week and try to fix it and if he can't I might get a brand new one. (I kinda hope I get a brand new one)