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Me and my roommates are looking to put our money together and buy a tablet for are website we want to do art for. I've looked through plenty of listings, but I was wondering if there was one Grifter DMAC or AoB would recommend. I value their opinion and if anyone would like to suggest one, great. We are willing to spend around $200 each and there are four of us.
The LittleMan In The Boat on
I don't suffer from Insanity. I enjoy every minute of it.
I'd recommend the Wacom Graphire4 6x8, but those are a bit hard to come by. I don't have any personal experience with the Bamboo Fun, but going by what other tablets from Wacom I've owned, I trust it's quality-made.
The Intuos is much more pricey, and unless you are really dedicated to your art, you probably don't need one.
I work with a Graphire myself, and it suites my needs.
Who was that person who came and posted his (or her) independent film about a future where all the men had died, and the main character was escorting a sexbot somewhere?
Me and my roommates are looking to put our money together and buy a tablet for are website we want to do art for. I've looked through plenty of listings, but I was wondering if there was one Grifter DMAC or AoB would recommend. I value their opinion and if anyone would like to suggest one, great. We are willing to spend around $200 each and there are four of us.
Me and my roommates are looking to put our money together and buy a tablet for are website we want to do art for. I've looked through plenty of listings, but I was wondering if there was one Grifter DMAC or AoB would recommend. I value their opinion and if anyone would like to suggest one, great. We are willing to spend around $200 each and there are four of us.
So, how does one go about getting prints made of thier work? A few people have contacted me asking me if I have any prints of my stuff for sale, which suprised me, but I don't know anything about it.
Where do you get it done? How much does it cost? Is it ever cost effective to just get a run of 10 or 15?
So, how does one go about getting prints made of thier work? A few people have contacted me asking me if I have any prints of my stuff for sale, which suprised me, but I don't know anything about it.
Where do you get it done? How much does it cost? Is it ever cost effective to just get a run of 10 or 15?
Thanks.
Just submit it to a DeviantArt account and you can get prints made and sell them. You do get a percentage though, since it costs cash money to make the prints.
You can buy a printer if you have a high demand. That's the most cost effective solution. Then you just have to get some decent quality paper and you're in the print making business.
^Do I just print it on high quality photo paper? The glossy kind? I have a photo printer here at my house. My main issue is actually getting an acurate digital copy of the work. For example, this is just something I happen to have a photo of:
Isn't 100% accurate to what the real picture looks like. How should I go about fixing this? Adjusting the levels in photoshop? Scan it in? Take my pictures differently? Would I just print this image as is, obviously bigger?
Isn't 100% accurate to what the real picture looks like.
It isn't accurate how?
Also, glossy paper isn't the only kind of fancy paper available. Check with a paper supplier or a print shop to see if you can get a paper sample book. Beware though, some papers jam printers!
The pink in the actual picture is richer, less sickly and pale I guess you'd say. But if I were to print that picture out, would I want to adjust it in photoshop so that the backround is white, like the white paper I did it on, or would I leave it greyish? Are most prints done on glassy paper? I don't think they are.
Sorry I'm asking so many questions, I just literally know nothing about all of this.
There's all kinds of papers out there. If you print on heavier stock there's a chance that it will jam because your printer isn't designed to handle it. Like MT said, you may want to head down to a print shop and see what kinds of paper they have or if they have a sample book then make a judgement on what you think will work best. Semi-gloss or gloss might be good and you may or may not want to print it on plane white paper. And off white might work better. However, this will probably take some experimentation on your part.
As far as your picture is concerned, you'll probably want to scan it into photoshop and adjust the levels to get a good white background. Remember that white doesn't print so if you choose to use and off white background it will only print the colors in your image. If you have any shadows or such then that will print as well and will probably not be beneficial.
At the end of the day, a lot of these decisions need to be made by you as the artist.
Are you saying that there are actually people that think there is white ink that is printed onto white paper?
No, but when you want to print on a diffrent color paper, you have to explain that there is no white ink comming out of the printer. You can actually print white material over a dark surface, like Rolo said, but it's a diffrent process.
The pink in the actual picture is richer, less sickly and pale I guess you'd say. But if I were to print that picture out, would I want to adjust it in photoshop so that the backround is white, like the white paper I did it on, or would I leave it greyish? Are most prints done on glassy paper? I don't think they are.
Sorry I'm asking so many questions, I just literally know nothing about all of this.
Chop, you should try contacting your local art school and see if some of the students can run you through the process of producing digital art prints. They’ll also be able to help you locate the best suppliers of ink and paper in your area. There might even be a class you can take that would give you access to high-end inkjet printers. At my school we had the same Epson inkjet printers used by big-shot artists who sell prints for tens of thousands of dollars—donated by the guy who prints their stuff.
One thing that’s really important is to research the life of your ink/paper combination before you sell the prints. Some inks will completely disappear after a year, even with no exposure to light! Other inks can destroy papers they weren’t meant to be used with, and so on. Start here.
Your best bet is probably to commission someone to draw one for you. Not only do you get a large scan, but you also get to decide how you want it to look.
So basically I am total failure at digital painting in photoshop.
Looking at Craig Mullins' stuff and watching this http://www.vimeo.com/927695 boggles my goddamn brain (and bacon's speedpaint tut).
No matter what I do I end up with something that looks nothing like either of those when they're 2% of the way through it. My stuff just looks blurry and blobby and total crap. Probably because I have no idea what I'm doing...
Is there like an online guide or book (PS books are all about image editing) how to digipaint?
Like...what kind of opacities/flows are best, etc. Something that goes over basics like that.
I've been playing around for the better part of a year in CS2 with my tablet and I'm just not grasping how to paint well in photoshop.
-A Massive Failure
*I took my first painting class like 5 months ago and that class somewhat mirrors my experience with photoshop - having little to know instruction.
My teacher basically said nothing but "hey go paint what's on the table" without teaching teaching us how to do underpaintings/washes or even how much paint and how much water we should be using. I basically had to stumble through it and I have a better physical painting ability than a digital painting ability (more paint = better, but does more solid colors = better in photoshop? or low, mid opacities?)
I just have too many questions and need to learn everything from the beginning...
I just got a tablet for my laptop, and realized something photoshop is doing that I just can't stand. I never really used the pencil tool until now, since it sucks if you have a mouse.
If I draw a line, then start a new line anywhere on that line, it will use my background color instead of my foreground.
Is there anyway I can change this, outside of keeping both my back and foregrounds the same color? It's CS2.
If I press CTRL,ALT and the down arrow, my monitor's image does a 180 degree rotation, rendering the image upside down.
It used to be that I could control the mouse normaly when I had my image upsidown. Just this week, I tried to do this and my mouse control got inverted when in this mode.
Since someone was already talking about the new mini-Cintiq, I thought I'd bring this up here.
I picked one of these up about a week ago to try it out. Had to find one in a physical store since I knew there was a decent chance I was going to exchange it for something else and Wacom charges a restocking fee 100% of the time.
Basically, if you're coming from using an old "draw here, look there" tablet, you're going to love working directly on screen. I never could get used to doing anything serious with my Intuos, simply because I like to constantly adjust the angle of my drawing surface, which really doesn't work if your surface and screen aren't the same object. What I've been able to produce with the Cintiq in a few days is a massive improvement over anything I ever did with the Intuos.
That said, the 12WX suffers from significant accuracy and jittering issues which will annoy you if you're even remotely a professional artist. The center of the screen is completely accurate, and if you draw only here, it works great and is worth $1000 without question. Unfortunately, the farther you go from the center, the more the cursor is off from the pen, regardless of how many times you calibrate the device. Worse yet, as the cursor becomes more offset, it also starts to jitter more. Within the bottom left corner of the screen, the jittering is significant even when the pen is set down on the screen, a test which removes any posibility of this just being a problem with holding the pen still.
The general consensus online is that the tablet suffers from RF interference from its own internal power supply, and that there is no way to fix this issue without literally ripping the unit open and replacing the power unit.
I should mention that turning down the backlight helps the jittering a bit, but doesn't seem to have any impact on the actual accuracy drift.
It's also worth mentioning that there's nothing portable about the unit; while the tablet itself is a good size to go with a laptop, it has a second interface box that it plugs into, which itself has a DVI, USB, and power cable running from it. The power cable goes to a standard one of those little power converter boxes. Basically, this isn't coming to a coffee shop with you unless you're the type who brings a PC to Starbucks. :P
I'm returning this and trying the 21UX in a few days. I've heard that it has the same issue, however here we're talking about losing accuracy around the edge of a 21 inch screen, basically making it a 19 inch drawing area, which would be more than suitable for how I work.
Just thought I'd share that, since I doubt I'm the only one who has been thinking about getting one of these. It'd be great to hear back from anyone who's worked with the 21UX or the new widescreen 20 inch version.. I went with the 21 since I thought 4:3 made more sense as a drawing surface than 16:9, but I'm more interested in a technical comparison between the two in terms of screen quality and pen accuracy.
I half hate myself for even having to ask this, but how do you set the background in photoshop? I need it to be black. I am used to just grabbing the paint bucket and doing the whole thing that way, however, I am trying to do a design and that way just won't cut it.
Posts
Wait
The "Pens n' Pixels" tut is either a bad link or is dead.
I don't suffer from Insanity. I enjoy every minute of it.
http://direct.wacom.com/stores/5/Bamboo_Fun_-_medium_-_black_P1198C86.cfm?UserID=3251129&jsessionid=a630def6d529NwB$FB$C
I'd recommend the Wacom Graphire4 6x8, but those are a bit hard to come by. I don't have any personal experience with the Bamboo Fun, but going by what other tablets from Wacom I've owned, I trust it's quality-made.
The Intuos is much more pricey, and unless you are really dedicated to your art, you probably don't need one.
I work with a Graphire myself, and it suites my needs.
I don't suffer from Insanity. I enjoy every minute of it.
You should get one of these.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEI97_Ka-n4
I don't suffer from Insanity. I enjoy every minute of it.
EDIT: Guess not. Gizmodo said the viewing angle is deceiving.
Where do you get it done? How much does it cost? Is it ever cost effective to just get a run of 10 or 15?
Thanks.
Just submit it to a DeviantArt account and you can get prints made and sell them. You do get a percentage though, since it costs cash money to make the prints.
Isn't 100% accurate to what the real picture looks like. How should I go about fixing this? Adjusting the levels in photoshop? Scan it in? Take my pictures differently? Would I just print this image as is, obviously bigger?
Thanks a lot.
It isn't accurate how?
Also, glossy paper isn't the only kind of fancy paper available. Check with a paper supplier or a print shop to see if you can get a paper sample book. Beware though, some papers jam printers!
Sorry I'm asking so many questions, I just literally know nothing about all of this.
As far as your picture is concerned, you'll probably want to scan it into photoshop and adjust the levels to get a good white background. Remember that white doesn't print so if you choose to use and off white background it will only print the colors in your image. If you have any shadows or such then that will print as well and will probably not be beneficial.
At the end of the day, a lot of these decisions need to be made by you as the artist.
A surprising number of people don't know this.
The $8 animation course- http://www.animationarchive.org/2006/05/meta-100000-animation-drawing-course.html#links
artistjeffc.tumblr.com http://www.etsy.com/shop/artistjeffc
Are you saying that there are actually people that think there is white ink that is printed onto white paper?
You need additive ink, and you mix them all together.
No, but when you want to print on a diffrent color paper, you have to explain that there is no white ink comming out of the printer. You can actually print white material over a dark surface, like Rolo said, but it's a diffrent process.
Chop, you should try contacting your local art school and see if some of the students can run you through the process of producing digital art prints. They’ll also be able to help you locate the best suppliers of ink and paper in your area. There might even be a class you can take that would give you access to high-end inkjet printers. At my school we had the same Epson inkjet printers used by big-shot artists who sell prints for tens of thousands of dollars—donated by the guy who prints their stuff.
One thing that’s really important is to research the life of your ink/paper combination before you sell the prints. Some inks will completely disappear after a year, even with no exposure to light! Other inks can destroy papers they weren’t meant to be used with, and so on. Start here.
Looking at Craig Mullins' stuff and watching this http://www.vimeo.com/927695 boggles my goddamn brain (and bacon's speedpaint tut).
No matter what I do I end up with something that looks nothing like either of those when they're 2% of the way through it. My stuff just looks blurry and blobby and total crap. Probably because I have no idea what I'm doing...
Is there like an online guide or book (PS books are all about image editing) how to digipaint?
Like...what kind of opacities/flows are best, etc. Something that goes over basics like that.
I've been playing around for the better part of a year in CS2 with my tablet and I'm just not grasping how to paint well in photoshop.
-A Massive Failure
*I took my first painting class like 5 months ago and that class somewhat mirrors my experience with photoshop - having little to know instruction.
My teacher basically said nothing but "hey go paint what's on the table" without teaching teaching us how to do underpaintings/washes or even how much paint and how much water we should be using. I basically had to stumble through it and I have a better physical painting ability than a digital painting ability (more paint = better, but does more solid colors = better in photoshop? or low, mid opacities?)
I just have too many questions and need to learn everything from the beginning...
If I draw a line, then start a new line anywhere on that line, it will use my background color instead of my foreground.
Is there anyway I can change this, outside of keeping both my back and foregrounds the same color? It's CS2.
It used to be that I could control the mouse normaly when I had my image upsidown. Just this week, I tried to do this and my mouse control got inverted when in this mode.
Anyone know where I can change this setting?
I picked one of these up about a week ago to try it out. Had to find one in a physical store since I knew there was a decent chance I was going to exchange it for something else and Wacom charges a restocking fee 100% of the time.
Basically, if you're coming from using an old "draw here, look there" tablet, you're going to love working directly on screen. I never could get used to doing anything serious with my Intuos, simply because I like to constantly adjust the angle of my drawing surface, which really doesn't work if your surface and screen aren't the same object. What I've been able to produce with the Cintiq in a few days is a massive improvement over anything I ever did with the Intuos.
That said, the 12WX suffers from significant accuracy and jittering issues which will annoy you if you're even remotely a professional artist. The center of the screen is completely accurate, and if you draw only here, it works great and is worth $1000 without question. Unfortunately, the farther you go from the center, the more the cursor is off from the pen, regardless of how many times you calibrate the device. Worse yet, as the cursor becomes more offset, it also starts to jitter more. Within the bottom left corner of the screen, the jittering is significant even when the pen is set down on the screen, a test which removes any posibility of this just being a problem with holding the pen still.
The general consensus online is that the tablet suffers from RF interference from its own internal power supply, and that there is no way to fix this issue without literally ripping the unit open and replacing the power unit.
I should mention that turning down the backlight helps the jittering a bit, but doesn't seem to have any impact on the actual accuracy drift.
It's also worth mentioning that there's nothing portable about the unit; while the tablet itself is a good size to go with a laptop, it has a second interface box that it plugs into, which itself has a DVI, USB, and power cable running from it. The power cable goes to a standard one of those little power converter boxes. Basically, this isn't coming to a coffee shop with you unless you're the type who brings a PC to Starbucks. :P
I'm returning this and trying the 21UX in a few days. I've heard that it has the same issue, however here we're talking about losing accuracy around the edge of a 21 inch screen, basically making it a 19 inch drawing area, which would be more than suitable for how I work.
Just thought I'd share that, since I doubt I'm the only one who has been thinking about getting one of these. It'd be great to hear back from anyone who's worked with the 21UX or the new widescreen 20 inch version.. I went with the 21 since I thought 4:3 made more sense as a drawing surface than 16:9, but I'm more interested in a technical comparison between the two in terms of screen quality and pen accuracy.
Apparently, I had checked "Auto Erase" on the pencil tool at some point.