okay! i'm sure this question's been asked times before, and i did a quick ctrl+f'ing through the pages to try and find some.. but all i saw was a recommendation for a CanoScan 8800F -- which is under my price limit (i'm drawing the line at $200), but i'd like something a bit cheaper if i can, while still getting goodness out of the product
basically, y'know, looking for a scanner. and i'm basically scanner retarded if my last two are any indication
any general recommendations on model or suggestions of, like, things to avoid or specifically look for? like i believe i saw that i should stay away from HP. which i'll take to heart since my last scanner was an HP and i hated it to say the least
Go the the clearance section of Epson.com and buy a cheap refurb scanner. Epson’s bad scanners are better than most other companies’ good scanners. I spent $79 on my scanner and I love it.
People generally seem to like posemaniacs, but I'm really not a fan; especially in terms of defining form, it's not a good reference at all. But that's just me.
It's kind of hard to know what to tell you without knowing where you're at, so I'd first encourage you to post your drawings here. Beyond that...
Defining form is basically about conveying the 3D-ness of 3D objects onto the paper. When people talk about a drawing looking flat, for instance, it's because the artist didn't successfully accomplish that. There are different ways of defining form in drawing: you can convey it through the application of shadows (my favorite way, personally), through cross-contour lines or hatching, or if you want to get more advanced, through the application and manipulation of color.
The way it applies to anatomy, at least in the sense that I'm guessing your friend is getting at, is mainly in breaking the body down to simple shapes (cylinders, boxes, etc) whose forms are easier to define, because the body is really complex. There are other techniques that also help if you've got access to live models (I'm guessing not so much or you wouldn't be using posemaniacs, but if you ever get a chance, you take it), like visualizing your drawing tool physically tracing over the subject, or pretending the line you're drawing is wrapping around them, but like I mentioned, those are best done with live models; I'm guessing the other members here have got links on hand to Loomis and other figure-drawing gurus which I'm too lazy to look up right now, but he's got some good stuff on breaking down forms.
Hopefully something there proves useful. Again, I encourage you to put your art up here; as long as you're willing to learn, we're glad to help you.
Agh!! I'm about to pull out my hair with this one... I'm trying to model a face in 3ds max and I am having problems welding the vertexes at the corner of the mouth together. No idea what it that I am doing wrong
Here are the Pics
The vertexes are distorted in the images bc I moved them out to exaggerate my point
If anyone is well versed in 3ds max I can send the file to you, maybe I am doing something very wrong...
I just found some guy on deviantart who has an account FULL of well-lit stock photos. Most of his pictures are of nude/semi-nude women, but a lot of them are dressed up in costume, and overall I think it's a great place for pose reference.
Better than posemaniacs! (and pretty well-categorized, too. :P)
rock: make sure your verts are close enough. Also check your weld settings. there should be an option for distance.
Easiest thing to do is to turn on snap to grid, select verts and move them so they snap and are right on top of each other.
edit: On closer inspections it seems you have two seperate meshes. I only know maya, but in maya you can't merge vertices of two separate meshes. you have to combine the meshes, and then you can merge.
I just found some guy on deviantart who has an account FULL of well-lit stock photos. Most of his pictures are of nude/semi-nude women, but a lot of them are dressed up in costume, and overall I think it's a great place for pose reference.
Better than posemaniacs! (and pretty well-categorized, too. :P)
rock: make sure your verts are close enough. Also check your weld settings. there should be an option for distance.
Easiest thing to do is to turn on snap to grid, select verts and move them so they snap and are right on top of each other.
edit: On closer inspections it seems you have two seperate meshes. I only know maya, but in maya you can't merge vertices of two separate meshes. you have to combine the meshes, and then you can merge.
Weld settings ??? Where exactly is that option? As far as distance being the issue I moved the vertexes close together and some of them still would not weld together.
The meshes are grouped together and I have been able to weld some other points, so maybe its just a particular polygon that 3ds max hates...
[EDIT] I deleted some replaced some polygons and all the vertexes are welding probably...for now so Maybe like I said ealier 3ds max hated the particular polygon.
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MustangArbiter of Unpopular OpinionsRegistered Userregular
edited January 2009
I've been doing some sketches trying to get some ideas for a new piece yesterday and today and I'm finding posemaniacs good for speed practice, but mostly unusable for anything meaningfull. 98% of the poses are rediculous and completely unusable in most settings.
Thanks for those links folks, already having a sneaky look through at work....Damn you boobs! Why do you have to be so offensive to HR policy?!
EDIT: Actually one of those refs (this one) from ND's link was used for the Blade Runner cover on the Sid Mead issue of Imagine FX. Why I felt the need to mention that I don't know, I guess I just love useless trivia.
I just found some guy on deviantart who has an account FULL of well-lit stock photos. Most of his pictures are of nude/semi-nude women, but a lot of them are dressed up in costume, and overall I think it's a great place for pose reference.
Better than posemaniacs! (and pretty well-categorized, too. :P)
I need to glue two pieces of paper together (80lb Cover) over a 5” area. I usually use spray glue, but this piece has so many flaps that I can’t go around spraying it on just 5” without accidentally getting some on the rest of the design. I’m thinking of using rubber cement, but it dries too slowly. Does anyone know of a way to make rubber cement solidify faster? Maybe a blowdrier?
I've never used that one. Can you jiggle the paper around a bit before the adhesive sets, like with rubber cement? I might need to shimmy the papers up or down after I set the glue.
Wheatpaste works pretty well on uneven surfaces. That's why it's the favored glue of graffiti street crims! What do you mean by 'how will the paper work'?
Nah, the surface will be even, it's just a very small area surrounded by other areas that I don't need glued. I decided to cut out a mask and try my luck with Super 77 spary glue.
Nah, the surface will be even, it's just a very small area surrounded by other areas that I don't need glued. I decided to cut out a mask and try my luck with Super 77 spary glue.
Yeah, I was just going to suggest cutting out a mask and using spray mount. I did that a few times last year.
Wheatpaste works pretty well on uneven surfaces. That's why it's the favored glue of graffiti street crims! What do you mean by 'how will the paper work'?
Like if its pasted on uneven surfaces, there's going to be little pockets. Lets say around the edges, if there is a way for wind to go through a little crack, will it rip the paper pretty badly?
This is my first post to the forums and I thought that this would be the best place to get the answer to my question.
Does anyone know if there will be any new Penny Arcade TV episodes on UStream?
I got really addicted to them. I got a lot of new techniques just from watching Mike drawing the comic and the music always was new to me. I really was disappointed, but understood the circumstances, when they had to stop because PAX was starting to take up most of their time. I just hope that Penny Arcade TV comes back, but if not I'll enjoy the ones that were pre-recorded.
I've never used that one. Can you jiggle the paper around a bit before the adhesive sets, like with rubber cement? I might need to shimmy the papers up or down after I set the glue.
You can even peel Studio-tac apart and start over. But if you need to do 100 it’s not going to be cheap and it’s not really meant for stuff that needs to last a long time.
But I second the glue stick recommendation. There are some badassed permanent glue sticks out there, the plain old Elmer’s stick can be lifesaver.
haha, it was more of a question of "Has anyone had better experience over one fabric paint than another?" I would imagine there are some that are better than others. Just like some oils are better than others.
I am running Windows Vista 32 bit, (E5200 CPU and 4850 graphics card)... I just downloaded Blender 2.48a for windows and Python 2.54 but when I try to open Blender it crashes and tells me that "blender.exe has stopped working".
Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem?
Hey guys, I was hoping someone could give me a quick answer: when working with charcoal, is there something you can do when your done to solidify it, so it doesn't weather, smudge, and otherwise ruin itself? Like some kind of spray or something that protects it when you're done?
And there are two types; the ones that let you keep working on your drawings afterwards (which aren't as fix..ative..?), and the ones that don't (I don't know how fixative those are, but I assume more so than the former). I've heard that hair spray also works well in a pinch.
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basically, y'know, looking for a scanner. and i'm basically scanner retarded if my last two are any indication
any general recommendations on model or suggestions of, like, things to avoid or specifically look for? like i believe i saw that i should stay away from HP. which i'll take to heart since my last scanner was an HP and i hated it to say the least
I'm learning the anatomy, I'm learning the proportions, I'm drawing pages of posemaniacs poses daily. But I dont seem to be improving much.
An artist friend of mine says that I should work on how I define form.
What the hell is he talking about?
Where without the outlines it wouldn't be possible to tell what was going on in the picture.
However you can also define a form by only using value, like this :
And of course there are lots of different variations between those two extremes.
Generally your work will start looking more realistic if you use value to define form, and look more cartoony if you're using lots of outline.
It's kind of hard to know what to tell you without knowing where you're at, so I'd first encourage you to post your drawings here. Beyond that...
Defining form is basically about conveying the 3D-ness of 3D objects onto the paper. When people talk about a drawing looking flat, for instance, it's because the artist didn't successfully accomplish that. There are different ways of defining form in drawing: you can convey it through the application of shadows (my favorite way, personally), through cross-contour lines or hatching, or if you want to get more advanced, through the application and manipulation of color.
The way it applies to anatomy, at least in the sense that I'm guessing your friend is getting at, is mainly in breaking the body down to simple shapes (cylinders, boxes, etc) whose forms are easier to define, because the body is really complex. There are other techniques that also help if you've got access to live models (I'm guessing not so much or you wouldn't be using posemaniacs, but if you ever get a chance, you take it), like visualizing your drawing tool physically tracing over the subject, or pretending the line you're drawing is wrapping around them, but like I mentioned, those are best done with live models; I'm guessing the other members here have got links on hand to Loomis and other figure-drawing gurus which I'm too lazy to look up right now, but he's got some good stuff on breaking down forms.
Hopefully something there proves useful. Again, I encourage you to put your art up here; as long as you're willing to learn, we're glad to help you.
Here are the Pics
The vertexes are distorted in the images bc I moved them out to exaggerate my point
If anyone is well versed in 3ds max I can send the file to you, maybe I am doing something very wrong...
Better than posemaniacs! (and pretty well-categorized, too. :P)
NSFW:
http://mjranum-stock.deviantart.com/gallery/
rock: make sure your verts are close enough. Also check your weld settings. there should be an option for distance.
Easiest thing to do is to turn on snap to grid, select verts and move them so they snap and are right on top of each other.
edit: On closer inspections it seems you have two seperate meshes. I only know maya, but in maya you can't merge vertices of two separate meshes. you have to combine the meshes, and then you can merge.
artistjeffc.tumblr.com http://www.etsy.com/shop/artistjeffc
I subscribe to that guy - also these two. Some of their stuff is a bit...saucy.
http://pelicanh.deviantart.com/gallery/
http://perrygallagher.deviantart.com/gallery/
Weld settings ??? Where exactly is that option? As far as distance being the issue I moved the vertexes close together and some of them still would not weld together.
The meshes are grouped together and I have been able to weld some other points, so maybe its just a particular polygon that 3ds max hates...
[EDIT] I deleted some replaced some polygons and all the vertexes are welding probably...for now
Thanks for those links folks, already having a sneaky look through at work....Damn you boobs! Why do you have to be so offensive to HR policy?!
EDIT: Actually one of those refs (this one) from ND's link was used for the Blade Runner cover on the Sid Mead issue of Imagine FX. Why I felt the need to mention that I don't know, I guess I just love useless trivia.
DA can be pretty grand for these types of things. These guys arent as well lit but they have good sword and gun poses.
http://ahrum-stock.deviantart.com/gallery/#Year-In-Review-2007
http://jademacalla.deviantart.com/
:x GET OUT!!!
Yeah, I was just going to suggest cutting out a mask and using spray mount. I did that a few times last year.
Like if its pasted on uneven surfaces, there's going to be little pockets. Lets say around the edges, if there is a way for wind to go through a little crack, will it rip the paper pretty badly?
I suck at explaining things.
Does anyone know if there will be any new Penny Arcade TV episodes on UStream?
I got really addicted to them. I got a lot of new techniques just from watching Mike drawing the comic and the music always was new to me. I really was disappointed, but understood the circumstances, when they had to stop because PAX was starting to take up most of their time. I just hope that Penny Arcade TV comes back, but if not I'll enjoy the ones that were pre-recorded.
Thanks for any information.
You can even peel Studio-tac apart and start over. But if you need to do 100 it’s not going to be cheap and it’s not really meant for stuff that needs to last a long time.
But I second the glue stick recommendation. There are some badassed permanent glue sticks out there, the plain old Elmer’s stick can be lifesaver.
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Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem?