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I am taking apart my motorcycle to fix the engine, and I noticed that the exhaust pipes coming from the engine are all nasty and rusted. They still perform fine but Hey they are rusting and I don't really like it much.
Now I was thinking of sanding it down a bit and bluing the metal, however I really don't know how much the bluing would protect the metals at high temperatures.
What other ways could I protect the exhaust pipes or would bluing work just fine?
Have you tried some fine steel wool? It'll take most of the rust off, the finish won't be perfect anymore but it's better than nothing.
Unfortunately, if it's rusted through the chrome, anything you can do at home will only be temporary. They've got to be stripped and re-chromed (or specialty coated). You could use header tape to cover them up, but it traps moisture and will rust the pipes faster, so only use it if you're planning to replace them eventually.
Well, corrosion on metal parts is actually a protective oxide layer around the actual metal. It's probably not too thick, but it protects it from the oxides diffusing further into the metal, compromising the integrity of the pipe. The pipe needs to perform mechanically and thermally, so if you were to remove the rust then you expose the bulk of the metal which would oxidize again so you'd lose a fraction of your pipe thickness. This is potentially bad. If they'd made it with the proper chromium, then it wouldn't rust in the first place unless you scratched it up.
I'm not sure what you should do to remove the rust, but don't just go to town with a sander until you get someone qualified to hear your concern.
Oxide isn't going to protect the metal. Depending on the type of metal, I am assuming steel, the pipe isn't going to last long. I'm not a mechanic, but I work with metal on a daily basis. Pipes have more surface area exposed to the elements, making it more likely to rust out, because oxidation will be forming on both the interior and exterior. When oxidation forms, unless you seal it by keeping it well oiled or with a clear lacquer, the rust will continue to form beneath the already formed oxidation.
Best way to remove rust? Take the pipe off and sand blast it. Depending on the length of the pipe, it will be difficult to remove the rust from the interior (if there is some). If you don't have access to a sandblaster, steel wool and heavy grit sand paper, depending on the depth of the corrosion. Steel wool wont remove material like sand paper, and even if a little corrosion is left, it can open the door for corrosion to continue forming.
Bluing isn't a 100% protective finish. It is a thin chemical layer which can wear down, but given the heat that will be applied to the pipe, it is probably your best bet. Also, be sure to wear protective clothing when applying the bluing, and do it in a ventilated area. Bluing contains Selenium, a neurotoxin.
Oxide isn't going to protect the metal. Depending on the type of metal, I am assuming steel, the pipe isn't going to last long. I'm not a mechanic, but I work with metal on a daily basis. Pipes have more surface area exposed to the elements, making it more likely to rust out, because oxidation will be forming on both the interior and exterior. When oxidation forms, unless you seal it by keeping it well oiled or with a clear lacquer, the rust will continue to form beneath the already formed oxidation.
Best way to remove rust? Take the pipe off and sand blast it. Depending on the length of the pipe, it will be difficult to remove the rust from the interior (if there is some). If you don't have access to a sandblaster, steel wool and heavy grit sand paper, depending on the depth of the corrosion. Steel wool wont remove material like sand paper, and even if a little corrosion is left, it can open the door for corrosion to continue forming.
Bluing isn't a 100% protective finish. It is a thin chemical layer which can wear down, but given the heat that will be applied to the pipe, it is probably your best bet. Also, be sure to wear protective clothing when applying the bluing, and do it in a ventilated area. Bluing contains Selenium, a neurotoxin.
Is it particularly difficult to do a hot bluing process as compared to a cold blue? I was looking at wikipedia and it said that a cold blue is primarily cosmetic. Ive only done cold bluing with rifles so I am not to sure whether cold bluing would be sufficient or I should go get all the stuff to do a hot blue.
Also thanks everyone else for their input, I appreciate it.
Well, corrosion on metal parts is actually a protective oxide layer around the actual metal. It's probably not too thick, but it protects it from the oxides diffusing further into the metal, compromising the integrity of the pipe. The pipe needs to perform mechanically and thermally, so if you were to remove the rust then you expose the bulk of the metal which would oxidize again so you'd lose a fraction of your pipe thickness. This is potentially bad. If they'd made it with the proper chromium, then it wouldn't rust in the first place unless you scratched it up.
I'm not sure what you should do to remove the rust, but don't just go to town with a sander until you get someone qualified to hear your concern.
I am not really worried about the integrity of the pipe for now, it's not a heavy rust but standard looking pipe rust. Rust dust has come off but no flakes or anything, pipe still seems strong and I doubt it had any chroming done previously to it.
Although my evaluation could be faulty because I am a complete novice.
Is it particularly difficult to do a hot bluing process as compared to a cold blue? I was looking at wikipedia and it said that a cold blue is primarily cosmetic. Ive only done cold bluing with rifles so I am not to sure whether cold bluing would be sufficient or I should go get all the stuff to do a hot blue.
Also thanks everyone else for their input, I appreciate it.
Cold bluing will protect a little bit. I use bluing primarily for indoor cosmetic uses, so cold bluing is sufficient corrosion protection for what I do, but my things are never really outside. I've seen hot bluing done by warming up the metal with a torch to way below red heat, so it must've been around 200-800 deg. F. After it is heated up the bluing is brushed on. Everyone has their different methods, and I would seek out the advice of someone who has done it before, or does it professionally. I believe hot bluing is better for a protective finish because the heat allows the metal to relax and allows the bluing to penetrate deeper because the grain structure of the steel has been opened some.
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Unfortunately, if it's rusted through the chrome, anything you can do at home will only be temporary. They've got to be stripped and re-chromed (or specialty coated). You could use header tape to cover them up, but it traps moisture and will rust the pipes faster, so only use it if you're planning to replace them eventually.
I'm not sure what you should do to remove the rust, but don't just go to town with a sander until you get someone qualified to hear your concern.
Let 'em eat fucking pineapples!
Best way to remove rust? Take the pipe off and sand blast it. Depending on the length of the pipe, it will be difficult to remove the rust from the interior (if there is some). If you don't have access to a sandblaster, steel wool and heavy grit sand paper, depending on the depth of the corrosion. Steel wool wont remove material like sand paper, and even if a little corrosion is left, it can open the door for corrosion to continue forming.
Bluing isn't a 100% protective finish. It is a thin chemical layer which can wear down, but given the heat that will be applied to the pipe, it is probably your best bet. Also, be sure to wear protective clothing when applying the bluing, and do it in a ventilated area. Bluing contains Selenium, a neurotoxin.
Is it particularly difficult to do a hot bluing process as compared to a cold blue? I was looking at wikipedia and it said that a cold blue is primarily cosmetic. Ive only done cold bluing with rifles so I am not to sure whether cold bluing would be sufficient or I should go get all the stuff to do a hot blue.
Also thanks everyone else for their input, I appreciate it.
I am not really worried about the integrity of the pipe for now, it's not a heavy rust but standard looking pipe rust. Rust dust has come off but no flakes or anything, pipe still seems strong and I doubt it had any chroming done previously to it.
Although my evaluation could be faulty because I am a complete novice.
Cold bluing will protect a little bit. I use bluing primarily for indoor cosmetic uses, so cold bluing is sufficient corrosion protection for what I do, but my things are never really outside. I've seen hot bluing done by warming up the metal with a torch to way below red heat, so it must've been around 200-800 deg. F. After it is heated up the bluing is brushed on. Everyone has their different methods, and I would seek out the advice of someone who has done it before, or does it professionally. I believe hot bluing is better for a protective finish because the heat allows the metal to relax and allows the bluing to penetrate deeper because the grain structure of the steel has been opened some.
Hope this helps.
This, I think this is what I will do
Thanks everyone.
If it is really rusty use the sandblast/grill paint method.