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Bicycle commuting: the traffic and you (me)

Regina FongRegina Fong Allons-y, AlonsoRegistered User regular
edited August 2008 in Help / Advice Forum
So, despite frequently mocking the bicyclists of Washington State, after moving out onto town with a mere 3 mile commute to the shipyard, I have bitten the bullet and purchased a shiny new "entry-level" road bike. My intention is to use said bicycle to commute to and from work.

I haven't started yet, and this is what brings me to H&A. The only realistic way to get from East Bremerton, where I live, into Bremerton proper, is to cross the Warren Ave bridge on Hwy 303. It's a 4 lane bridge (2 northbound, 2 south) and has no bike lane. Pretty much the rest of my commute can go onto side streets with substantially less traffic, but there is no escaping this stretch of the 303. It's a 30 mph zone, but people speed. Typically 35-45 and even higher is the norm. Traffic is semi-heavy in the morning, and heavy in the afternoon. The bridge is downhill on my way into work, and uphill on my way home. I can only imagine myself, huffing and puffing my way up this hill on the way home, in near bumper-to-bumper traffic, with the cars doing 35+ and me doing... less.

I see a lot of bicyclists heading down the hill when I'm driving into work, and it's quite easy to get into the second lane and go around them. This isn't the case heading home, and I haven't noted any bicyclists yet headed this direction to see how they interact while going up the hill in traffic.

So what I'm asking is what I am expected to do, as a cyclist, in this situation. There is little shoulder, and no bike lane. The traffic is heavy enough that cars in the first lane will not be able to get over to go around me. I envision danger, hurled objects, cursing, and possible road rage in my future.

I suppose I could dismount and walk my bike up the narrow sidewalk (separared from traffic by a barrier) but this would really defeat the purpose of biking to work, and it would be a fairly long walk. Riding on the sidewalk is not an option, it's narrow, there are typically pedestrians using it, and it's not even legal.

As far as my skill level goes, I would say not very. I definitely haven't forgotten how to ride a bike, the test rides I took while picking out my bike prove that much, but I never dealt with a situation like this riding my bike to school as a kid, so have nothing to draw on here.

Your H&A is greatly appreciated!

Regina Fong on
«1

Posts

  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    Stay as far to the right as possible. The cars will find a way to get around you, don't worry about that. I'd be more worried about the bridge deck, to be honest.

    Doc on
  • Regina FongRegina Fong Allons-y, Alonso Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Doc wrote: »
    Stay as far to the right as possible. The cars will find a way to get around you, don't worry about that. I'd be more worried about the bridge deck, to be honest.

    I've been looking and the condition of the pavement on the bridge seems pretty good overall, little to no trash, debris and so forth, and no potholes, huge cracks, or anything else I can see (from the relative safety of my car) that would pose a threat for me. So, stay over to the right. Got it.

    Regina Fong on
  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    I'm not worried about debris or FOD. Cars speed like hell over bridges and look for cyclists even less than they usually do.

    Doc on
  • yourspaceholidayyourspaceholiday Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Get a good quality blinker. I forget the particular model I have, but it has solid mode, blinking mode, and seizure mode. It's extremely noticeable, and I'm sure made more than a few inattentive drivers aware of me. Also, don't misinterpret Doc's statement of "far to the right as possible" as curb hugging. If you feel threatened by cars passing you too close, debris on the side of the road, or anything else at all, move over to the left a bit. I've taken the lane on more than one occasion, and it really helps you get control of a potentially dangerous situation. Now, I'm not sure if this is completely kosher in Washington, but if it's like any other state I've lived in (note: I live in Kansas, one of the least bike friendly states), you have the right to the full lane if you deem it necessary.

    yourspaceholiday on
  • Regina FongRegina Fong Allons-y, Alonso Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Doc wrote: »
    I'm not worried about debris or FOD. Cars speed like hell over bridges and look for cyclists even less than they usually do.

    Oh, I see what you're saying. Yeah, it's a concern. I'll be wearing an obnoxious orange reflective vest and I have a flashy thingy on the back of my bike, but ultimately, if I get nailed, it's the good deal. I mean, my job completely sucks.

    Regina Fong on
  • fuelishfuelish Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    First off, you have the same right to the road as the cars. Most states have a rule for bicycles that goes more, or less, like this: The operator of the bicycle shall remain as far right as practible. That means you need to stay as far right as is safe. That does not mean against the curb or in the shoulder.

    Most roads have a wide enough lane for a car to stay in the lane and still give a bicycle a two foot clearnance(Most states qualify safe passing between two and four feet) Unfortunatly most drivers have no idea how big their car is and either give you no room or swerve like they are avoiding a deer. In your case the cars are all moving the same direction and them giving you a little clearance should be easy for them.

    You want to wear a helmet, get a rear flasher(and a front) and maybe wear a safety vest(I hate these but they are very visible) Go out and ride in some lower traffic areas to get used to the traffic. Go to the bike shop and see if there are some commuter guys you can talk to to help you out with riding in traffic, or an alternate route How about the Manette bridge. It looks like it is a short distance away and not a markered road. Would it be easier? Dont worry about mileage to much. Even if you double to six miles you should still be able to do the trip easy in a half hour. You could also try leaving a little after the rush hour bulge for the ride home, even fifteen minutes can make a big difference in traffic flow.

    In the end it comes down to you giving it a try

    fuelish on
    Another day in the bike shop Pretty much what it sounds like. The secret lifestyle, laid open.
  • Nakatomi2010Nakatomi2010 Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Don't forget your helmet... Even more important, wearing something eye catching if you're going to be in a potentially dangerous situation.... I know personally I'm probably going to be doing my own bike commuting soon, prpobably do a couple practice runs this weekend on a 5 mile trek, took me 30 minutes of hard work, but I think I didn't bolt the tires back on properly, and am hopign I got it right this time.... :/

    But yeah... Always remember, if they hit you and you were following all the proper procedures to not get hit, they be in big trouble...

    Nakatomi2010 on
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  • Regina FongRegina Fong Allons-y, Alonso Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I'm fully covered as far as safety gear goes, all the recommended safety gear are actual requirements just to ride a bicycle onto a military base. As far as the Manette bridge, I don't know. I'll have to scout that out in my car and see what that ride would be like.

    Regina Fong on
  • EggyToastEggyToast Jersey CityRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    If it's narrow, I'd actually strongly suggest you DON'T stay as far right as possible. Stay right, yes, but if there's no shoulder, you need to actually claim the lane. So you should be more where a car's passenger would be.

    Why? A car HAS to see you that way. Most bike accidents occur from a cyclist being in a car's blind spot, or a cyclist getting clipped. Very rarely is a cyclist simply slammed into from an oncoming car (unless Robert Novak lives in your area).

    I have a few narrow spots on my commute to work, and it's the only way I'd be able to take those sections without being run off the road. If you stay as far right as possible, cars will try to sneak around you without changing lanes, resulting in you being thrown off balance or clipped by an inconsiderate driver. If you're more in the lane, for that section of the bridge you will force drivers to slow down and change lanes, rather than try to speed by.

    As the bridge approaches, look back, stick your left arm straight out, and, when clear, move across the line into the lane. Pedal a little harder, so cars see you're working, but stick in the lane. You'll probably see other cyclists doing something similar, and, if there are a good number of cyclists on that stretch of road in general, cars will probably be much more prepared for such an event.

    EggyToast on
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  • Regina FongRegina Fong Allons-y, Alonso Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Oh yeah, almost forgot. Recommend me some shoes for the regular pedals (not the super whamadyne clip/clipless things). I didn't care for the way my sneakers felt while riding at all, and I think that might just be because they're running shoes, and too cushiony or something.

    Regina Fong on
  • Regina FongRegina Fong Allons-y, Alonso Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    EggyToast wrote: »
    If it's narrow, I'd actually strongly suggest you DON'T stay as far right as possible. Stay right, yes, but if there's no shoulder, you need to actually claim the lane. So you should be more where a car's passenger would be.

    There isn't much of a shoulder but the lanes seem semi-wide. The sidewalk is very narrow, which I pointed out just to rule out the possibility of riding on it. I'll scope it out again tomorrow and pay even closer attention to how much room there is in the right lane on my trip home from work (since that's the one I'm worried about).

    Regina Fong on
  • fuelishfuelish Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Use a touring style cycling shoe. like the Specialized Tahoe. That will give you a stiff sole but still be a decent shoe to walk in. It can also be set up for clipless if you decide to do that.

    fuelish on
    Another day in the bike shop Pretty much what it sounds like. The secret lifestyle, laid open.
  • Regina FongRegina Fong Allons-y, Alonso Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    fuelish wrote: »
    Use a touring style cycling shoe. like the Specialized Tahoe. That will give you a stiff sole but still be a decent shoe to walk in. It can also be set up for clipless if you decide to do that.

    Touring style, got it. I can't imagine myself ever being coordinated enough to handle the locking cleat things, I'd fall over.

    Regina Fong on
  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    jeepguy wrote: »
    fuelish wrote: »
    Use a touring style cycling shoe. like the Specialized Tahoe. That will give you a stiff sole but still be a decent shoe to walk in. It can also be set up for clipless if you decide to do that.

    Touring style, got it. I can't imagine myself ever being coordinated enough to handle the locking cleat things, I'd fall over.

    Everyone falls over the first time they use them.

    Doc on
  • PojacoPojaco Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    jeepguy wrote: »
    fuelish wrote: »
    Use a touring style cycling shoe. like the Specialized Tahoe. That will give you a stiff sole but still be a decent shoe to walk in. It can also be set up for clipless if you decide to do that.

    Touring style, got it. I can't imagine myself ever being coordinated enough to handle the locking cleat things, I'd fall over.
    Sorry, but I've got to disagree. DO NOT go buy branded cycling shoes for casual cycling. For the love of God, don't think for a second you've got to own Specialized or Cannondale gear in order to ride a bike. Get yourself some low-top Vans, Converse, etc. with a flat sole so your wallet doesn't get killed and you don't have to walk around in cycling shoes all day. If you were going to buy clip-ins (and it doesn't sound like you need/want any) then you might get some Specialized shoes, but your situation doesn't call for it.

    In most US states, bicycles are afforded the same rights as cars. If there is a bike lane, you are to use it unless it is unreasonable (passing a taxi, a large puddle, pothole, old lady, etc.) A rear blinker is a good idea so people know they're approaching you from a distance away. I don't wear one, but it's a good idea to wear a helmet. If it comes down to a serious collision, you'll be glad you did.

    As for traffic, you ARE traffic. People in cars tend to disagree (you'll get used to the honking and "Get off the road"s), but people in cars are also generally ignorant of cycling laws and basic human interaction anyways. If there is a stretch of road where you would have to ride in the traffic lane for some time, then do it. Don't worry about cars having to slow down for a few seconds of their commute while you do your thing. You are entitled to the road, and you aren't allowed to ride on the sidewalk.

    My extra two cents is keep it fun, and keep it cheap. It isn't necessary to spend more than $200 on a quality roadbike. I'm not sure what you mean by "entry-level", but I get the impression that's what they called it at the bike shop and it ran you quite a bit of cash. If you are really an entry-level cyclist, and you don't have any dreams of time trial competition, you have no need for new/expensive/branded equipment. Get a decent bag to carry your stuff, don't buy cycling shoes, do buy a helmet, do assert your right to the road, and do enjoy the satisfaction of passing cars all day long as they idle in traffic. Even in Portland, the bike-friendliest city of all, we've got to deal with assholes honking on bridges because they've got to slow down for 20 seconds. And if you're not having fun, you're not doing it right.8-)

    *Edit because I read your post more clearly:

    I've ridden the Warren bridge before when visiting friends in Bremerton. That uphill portion of your ride will get easier every day. Even if cars are doing faster than the speed limit, you'll find that you can keep up or pass them with some ease as traffic gets heavier. Going downhill you should be able to maintain the speed limit yourself after you get your legs used to the workout. Watch for cars making right turns after the bridge, don't be a recipient of the dreaded 'right hook'. Watch for car doors opening into bike lanes, people on cell phones, etc. Good luck, maybe I'll see you out there sometime.

    Pojaco on
  • Seattle ThreadSeattle Thread Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Doc wrote: »
    Stay as far to the right as possible. The cars will find a way to get around you, don't worry about that. I'd be more worried about the bridge deck, to be honest.
    It's not a drawbridge, IIRC.

    Seattle Thread on
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  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    Makershot wrote: »
    Doc wrote: »
    Stay as far to the right as possible. The cars will find a way to get around you, don't worry about that. I'd be more worried about the bridge deck, to be honest.
    It's not a drawbridge, IIRC.

    the cars on the bridge deck, to be specific.

    Doc on
  • BasarBasar IstanbulRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I don't think you should stay as far to the right as possible. This puts you in even more danger. As long as you have all your safety gear proper, your blinker working, and have noticeable reflectors on you, you should STAY in the right lane, prolly in the middle of it and just ride your bike as if you were driving a car.

    Basar on
    i live in a country with a batshit crazy president and no, english is not my first language

  • EggyToastEggyToast Jersey CityRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Yeah, for shoes you should actually get something more like a skate shoe. There's a world of difference between squishy cross trainers and a stiff skate shoe when it comes to cycling. I've got a pair of mesh watershoes that are very comfy and airy on hot days -- but they suck for cycling because downward pressure makes them squish around the pedal, rather than simply push the pedal down.

    As Pojaco says, you don't need to get specialized shoes; some vans or converse or other flat-soled athletic shoe should work for you very well. I have a pair of "plain" adidas that have a flat, stiff sole; far cry from their cross-trainer athletic shoes.

    EggyToast on
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  • SzechuanosaurusSzechuanosaurus Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    Basar wrote: »
    I don't think you should stay as far to the right as possible. This puts you in even more danger. As long as you have all your safety gear proper, your blinker working, and have noticeable reflectors on you, you should STAY in the right lane, prolly in the middle of it and just ride your bike as if you were driving a car.

    I agree with this and eggy. As a driver, I appreciate it a whole lot more when a bicycle sits in the middle of their lane, preferably closer to the left than the right. They are a legitimate road user and should behave as such. Hugging the pavement puts everybody in greater danger, because it gets bad drivers thinking they can maybe just squeeze past even although there's a semi coming in the opposite direction or whatever. You're more visible to all drivers, there's no temptation to squeeze past and there's no ambiguity about where you're heading - edging to the left or right of your lane implies that you intend to make a turn, sitting bang in the middle of the lane tells me you're going nowhere but forwards.

    Other drivers will huff and puff about how it makes it more difficult to overtake you but that's the fucking point. Drivers should only be overtaking you if it is absolutely 100% safe to do so, hugging the side of the road makes it maybe 30% safe to do so and is a temptation bad drivers just can't resist.

    Szechuanosaurus on
  • fuelishfuelish Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Specialized is a brand name. The Tahoe(Or any other similar bike shoe) Don't cost any more than a skate shoe and are reinforced right where your foot sits over the pedal.

    An oldschool skate shoe sucks for cycling(Except bike trial) because they are to soft for good grip, and are hard on the foot. The newer skate shoes that are meant for flip tricks ar better, but the price is still no better than a mid range bike shoe, and the bike whoe will have concealed laces so they don't get caught in your crank, a stiffer midsole, a better taper for toeclips and straps, and you can instsall cleats should you get the urge.

    Once you go to clipless pedals, you will never go back. The secret to not falling down? Clip out before you stop.

    fuelish on
    Another day in the bike shop Pretty much what it sounds like. The secret lifestyle, laid open.
  • DogDog Registered User, Administrator, Vanilla Staff admin
    edited August 2008
    damn jeepguy, I was gonna make this thread. Instead I will just pretend it is mine and soak up all of the great info here.

    Unknown User on
  • SporkedSporked Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    fuelish wrote: »
    Specialized is a brand name. The Tahoe(Or any other similar bike shoe) Don't cost any more than a skate shoe and are reinforced right where your foot sits over the pedal.

    An oldschool skate shoe sucks for cycling(Except bike trial) because they are to soft for good grip, and are hard on the foot. The newer skate shoes that are meant for flip tricks ar better, but the price is still no better than a mid range bike shoe, and the bike whoe will have concealed laces so they don't get caught in your crank, a stiffer midsole, a better taper for toeclips and straps, and you can instsall cleats should you get the urge.

    Once you go to clipless pedals, you will never go back. The secret to not falling down? Clip out before you stop.

    I've been riding for years and years and while I agree with you, (I love my bike shoes, Specialized BG Comps) I will say that walking in them is a motherfucker and I wear a pair of Vans when I ride to work so I don't have to lug other shoes around. The tahoe looks a little walking friendly but really, if he's new to the sport, he should get some shoes he can use if he decides in a month that bike commuting sucks and buys an Excursion. Or something.

    Jeepguy: If you find that you hate hate hate regular toe clips (like me), and don't want to go clipless, there's a product called Power Grips you should try (if you don't like regular clips). It's just a diagonal strap that goes over your foot and you just swing your heel out to loosen it and pull your foot out. The cool kids will laugh at you but really, fuck those guys.

    If you do decide to go clipless, find a front yard and practice. get moving, clip in, clip out/stop. You will fall down. A lot. It's just a thing, you get past it. It's like ducking for a door you go through or remembering to not lean forward when sitting on that one toilet at your friends house. Or something. It's a subconcious thing. Yes, you will stop at a redlight and some hot chick will smile at you and you will fall over because you aren't thinking about unclipping and it will be hilarious, just stand up and smile and say you're practicing falling for pretty girls. and that concludes that tangent.

    Just get some Vans or something, no need to buy pedals and shoes until you decide you want to get into it.

    Sporked on
  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    I just keep a pair of shoes in the office and wear my clipless shoes on my bike.

    Doc on
  • japanjapan Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Basar wrote: »
    I don't think you should stay as far to the right as possible. This puts you in even more danger. As long as you have all your safety gear proper, your blinker working, and have noticeable reflectors on you, you should STAY in the right lane, prolly in the middle of it and just ride your bike as if you were driving a car.

    I agree with this and eggy. As a driver, I appreciate it a whole lot more when a bicycle sits in the middle of their lane, preferably closer to the left than the right. They are a legitimate road user and should behave as such. Hugging the pavement puts everybody in greater danger, because it gets bad drivers thinking they can maybe just squeeze past even although there's a semi coming in the opposite direction or whatever. You're more visible to all drivers, there's no temptation to squeeze past and there's no ambiguity about where you're heading - edging to the left or right of your lane implies that you intend to make a turn, sitting bang in the middle of the lane tells me you're going nowhere but forwards.

    Other drivers will huff and puff about how it makes it more difficult to overtake you but that's the fucking point. Drivers should only be overtaking you if it is absolutely 100% safe to do so, hugging the side of the road makes it maybe 30% safe to do so and is a temptation bad drivers just can't resist.

    There's a book published in the UK called Cyclecraft, which is pretty much the definitive guide to using the roads on a bike, and this is exactly the approach it recommends. You control whether or not cars can pass you, so if it isn't safe for them to be doing so, move out and claim the lane. Don't be intimidated into putting yourself in danger so that cars can pass you more easily.

    japan on
  • LaOsLaOs SaskatoonRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Sporked: Jeeps is gay.

    But, I did have a real reason for replying: you, and others, have mentioned "clipless" but in talking about clipless, you mention clipping in and clipping out. o_O I'm incredibly unfamiliar with the sport and bycycling in general, but that just seems wrong... What is this clipless stuff you're talking about?

    Sounds to me like there's three styles for your shoes for biking--regular shoes, clips that connect you to the pedal (clipless??), and straps. Right? I don't want to hijack Jeeps' thread, so a link or PM with more info would be cool enough--I'm just curious. Thanks.

    LaOs on
  • Regina FongRegina Fong Allons-y, Alonso Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    LaOs wrote: »
    Sporked: Jeeps is gay.

    But, I did have a real reason for replying: you, and others, have mentioned "clipless" but in talking about clipless, you mention clipping in and clipping out. o_O I'm incredibly unfamiliar with the sport and bycycling in general, but that just seems wrong... What is this clipless stuff you're talking about?

    Sounds to me like there's three styles for your shoes for biking--regular shoes, clips that connect you to the pedal (clipless??), and straps. Right? I don't want to hijack Jeeps' thread, so a link or PM with more info would be cool enough--I'm just curious. Thanks.

    Confused me at first too. The "clipless" systems are a specialized pedal, and a specialized shoe and a cleat which bolts onto the bottom of the shoe. The cleat locks into the pedal, and thus your foot is firmly secured to the pedal and normal cycling motions will not cause your foot to leave the pedal (and this actually makes you much safer at all times the bike is moving). The issue arises that when you are at a stop, you need to unsecure your foot so you don't fall over. This is done by turning your foot in a certain way (which isn't part of the normal cycling motion, and thus accidental disconnects are prevented).

    The pedal clips are an old-fashioned way of accomplishing the same thing, but unlike the clipless systems, they don't become nearly as easy to clip and unclip from with practice, they are cumbersome.

    The big advantage to having your foot attached to the pedal (other than the obvious one, that your foot can't slip off) is that you get power from your off leg when it is in the finish-return part of the peddling cycle (ie: one foot is pushing while the other pulls instead of taking turns pushing).

    Regina Fong on
  • yourspaceholidayyourspaceholiday Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    The factory workers at my job (I'm an engineer) are striking. Crossing the picket line on a bike is fun

    yourspaceholiday on
  • fuelishfuelish Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    The reason the cleated pedals, originally developed by companies that made the release mechs for snow skis (Look and TIme) are called clipless, is because the old style foot retention is known as the toe clip and strap. No more toe clip=clipless. Toeclips suck they are either dragging on the ground rather than being in position, it requires some skill to get them to flip into the posiiton to use them. They do not work with modern sports shoes to well(tread base is to wide) If you cinch the strap down tight enough that you have a solid contact, it puts a lot of pressure on your foot and you cannot get your foot out with out reaching down to release the damn thing. I switched to clipless(Look and Shimano SPD) in 1991 and will never go back to toeclips.

    Power grips are a different story, they work pretty good, can be fitted to many size shoes, even combat boots, and easy to get out of while being reasonably secure.


    The book "The Art of Urban Cycling" by Hurst might be easier to find in the US than CycleCraft

    fuelish on
    Another day in the bike shop Pretty much what it sounds like. The secret lifestyle, laid open.
  • DocDoc Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    The factory workers at my job (I'm an engineer) are striking. Crossing the picket line on a bike is fun

    I carry a sports air horn in an extra bottle holder on my frame for such occasions.

    Doc on
  • EggyToastEggyToast Jersey CityRegistered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Doc wrote: »
    I carry a sports air horn in an extra bottle holder on my frame for such occasions.

    Where did you find one? I've been constantly tempted to get one to function as my "horn" to deal with excessively obnoxious drivers. Thankfully I typically don't encounter such drivers, but having a way to express how stupid they are when I *do* encounter them would be ideal.

    EggyToast on
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  • Chaotic DescentChaotic Descent Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I know it's illegal, but on busy roads, I stay the hell off it completely. I don't trust drivers. I run into a pedestrian, the worst that happens is a broken bone, and that's unlikely. A car runs into me, it's going to be serious, and both possibly and easily fatal. But that depends on how much you're willing to break the law, and how strict enforcement of that law is.

    Chaotic Descent on
  • DaedalusDaedalus Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    I'll go on the sidewalk when I need to as well, but I do try and avoid it.

    If the speed limit is 55 or above and there's a sidewalk, I'll use it pretty much exclusively, since there aren't going to be any damn pedestrians there anyway. And, I mean, it's not hard to see a pedestrian coming and slow the fuck down.

    Daedalus on
  • SzechuanosaurusSzechuanosaurus Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    japan wrote: »
    Basar wrote: »
    I don't think you should stay as far to the right as possible. This puts you in even more danger. As long as you have all your safety gear proper, your blinker working, and have noticeable reflectors on you, you should STAY in the right lane, prolly in the middle of it and just ride your bike as if you were driving a car.

    I agree with this and eggy. As a driver, I appreciate it a whole lot more when a bicycle sits in the middle of their lane, preferably closer to the left than the right. They are a legitimate road user and should behave as such. Hugging the pavement puts everybody in greater danger, because it gets bad drivers thinking they can maybe just squeeze past even although there's a semi coming in the opposite direction or whatever. You're more visible to all drivers, there's no temptation to squeeze past and there's no ambiguity about where you're heading - edging to the left or right of your lane implies that you intend to make a turn, sitting bang in the middle of the lane tells me you're going nowhere but forwards.

    Other drivers will huff and puff about how it makes it more difficult to overtake you but that's the fucking point. Drivers should only be overtaking you if it is absolutely 100% safe to do so, hugging the side of the road makes it maybe 30% safe to do so and is a temptation bad drivers just can't resist.

    There's a book published in the UK called Cyclecraft, which is pretty much the definitive guide to using the roads on a bike, and this is exactly the approach it recommends. You control whether or not cars can pass you, so if it isn't safe for them to be doing so, move out and claim the lane. Don't be intimidated into putting yourself in danger so that cars can pass you more easily.

    Yeah, I think I learnt it either when doing cycling proficiency at primary school or when I did my moped licence. It also gives you options - if you need to swerve to avoid a maniac or even just dodge a pothole, you've got room to the left and right, but if you're hugging the verge, you can only really swerve out into the middle of the road.

    Szechuanosaurus on
  • mtsmts Dr. Robot King Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    the trick to riding through traffic is to be confident, if you are making a move don't do it half assed,thats when you get hit,

    i wouldn't worry too much. just stay to the right of the bridge. if you are moving at or near the speed of traffic you should pop out more into the lane, but don't be afraid to pass people, thats the best part of riding in traffic.

    as far as shoes go, wear whatever you want. depending on your footwear requirements for work you can just wear those shoes. i just wear my sandals/flip flops. i used to to do on my road bike that had clippless pedals too, you don't need special bike shoes, especially for normal pedals

    mts on
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  • fuelishfuelish Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    EggyToast wrote: »
    Doc wrote: »
    I carry a sports air horn in an extra bottle holder on my frame for such occasions.

    Where did you find one? I've been constantly tempted to get one to function as my "horn" to deal with excessively obnoxious drivers. Thankfully I typically don't encounter such drivers, but having a way to express how stupid they are when I *do* encounter them would be ideal.


    Air Zound
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    fuelish on
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  • PheezerPheezer Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    Re: Shoes

    I just wear my work boots when I ride. They're ankle high hiking boot style steel toes with heavy rubber soles. I'm not very fashionable sometimes, but a lot of the time I need to have them at work anyhow and they're comfy.

    I'm with the "don't ride too far to the right" crowd, but don't try and seize an entire lane. It doesn't matter if it's the driver's fault for smoking you, if someone snaps on you and decides to take you out, you're done. Keep a safe distance to the curb. Besides, if you're more than what most reasonable folks would call a "safe distance", you can probably pull a ticket for it.

    Also, there may come a time when you figure it's safer to ride on a sidewalk for a couple blocks than the road. Don't be too proud to take the safer route.

    Pheezer on
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  • japanjapan Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    You don't take up an entire lane the whole time. You ride as far to the side (the right in the US, the left here) as is safe if it is safe for cars to be attempting to pass you.

    I move out to claim the lane if there is a complete absence of shoulder/pavement, or I'm approaching a junction.

    japan on
  • SzechuanosaurusSzechuanosaurus Registered User, ClubPA regular
    edited August 2008
    Plus, as I said, erring to the centre gives you options if someone tries to 'smoke' you. You can throw yourself to the left or the right. If you're hugging the curb or the verge or parked cars and someone gets too close, you quickly run out of options.

    And oh god, speaking of parked cars - GIVE THEM A VERY WIDE BERTH. People open car doors into the path of articulated lorries, believe that they will not see you on a bike.

    Szechuanosaurus on
  • LewieP's MummyLewieP's Mummy Registered User regular
    edited August 2008
    Ride like you own the road, don't ride in the gutter, ride in the middle - that way, cars are more likely to see you. I want spikes on my bike gloves, so I can scratch the cars that get too close to me when they overtake.

    LewieP's Mummy on
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