They're a different species, Poecilia wingei. Guppies are Poecilia reticulata. Fancy guppies are generally pretty extensive hybrids (some are even crossed with limias or mollies, and mollies themselves are a hybrid of as many as a dozen species), and a lot of endlers sold in stores are guppy hybrids, but there is considerable interest in maintaining the pure strain endlers, and even organizations that certify breeders and stock, as they've gone extinct in the wild.
There was some debate in the 80's and 90's as to whether they were a distinct species or not. Their range was very limited and completely isolated from guppies, at worst they were a subspecies. The argument against was that they could cross and produce viable offspring, but aside from Poecilia formosa*, almsot every livebearer can cross within it's genus and produce viable offspring. Quite a few new world cichlids can cross outside their genus and have produced viable offspring (blood parrots, flowerhorns).
*- Amazon mollies are all female. They mate with males of other molly species, but actually reproduce through parthenogenesis, so they don't hybridize.
Absent the scientific categorization how is a guppy not an endler? In terms of functionality, activity, behavior, reproduction, feeding, etc.? From what I have read it looks like a guppy, it acts like a guppy, it reproduces like a guppy, and it feeds like a guppy.
I'm simply wondering what the difference would be in terms of what the things do. I can get a pair of feeder guppies for $.25 at my local store. What do endlers do that would make me think that I need to get endlers instead?
I'm not trying to be down on endlers either. They are cute. I just wonder what they do that is different from a guppy.
Feeding, they can be more temperamental but generally the same. Size, males generally smaller, and lack the fins. Reproduction identical, behavior identical, they are considerably more hardy than fancy guppies, but not indestructible like common guppies.
if I want to get some endler's, 1. would a betta terrorize them (I know a betta would probably eat any babies) and 2. how do I know it's a pure strain not a hybrid one?
1. Possibly not, male guppies get targeted, but it's more fancy guppies that have big fins. Betas aren't normally aggressive to non-anabantoids, but they're kinda dumb, and can't tell the difference between colorful or long finned fish and another beta.
2. It's pretty hard to tell. If the breeder is certified by one of the endler preservation groups, then you can generally trust them. Otherwise, try your local or state LIvebearer association.
There's a few guidelines, but hybrids can be very close. Large flowing fins on males and almost any coloring in females is a good sign of a fancy guppy hybrid. Delta tails and lyretails are warning signs, but both have been bred out of pure endler strains.
Unless you plan to sell them, really don't worry too much that they're pure. The hybrids are quite hardy, they've got endler colors (or they'd be sold as guppies) and sometimes have better finage.
Sticking with the small fish theme, a couple top swimmers come to mind: Celestial pearl danios (a lot of places in the US still carry them under their old name, Galaxy Rasbora) and dwarf hatchet fish. CPDs are pretty spectacular, I don't know of another danio that can really compare. Dwarf hatchetfish are just like any hatchetfish, just stay about an inch long. They can still jump about 4 or 5 feet, though.
So I managed to get a 20 gal for free! Included are the canopy, heater and filter. I'm probably going to get a new filter and keep the heater to see if it works, and then change the bulb on the canopy. But, FREE TANK YEAH!
I've already started pondering my stocking list, probably a school of (maybe) pygmy cories, a school of harlequin rasboras, and I don't know what else (maybe some otos?)
Does anyone have any experience with planting live plants in cory friendly sand, I want another planted tank and I want to have cories, so I need to ensure everyone is happy.
So I managed to get a 20 gal for free! Included are the canopy, heater and filter. I'm probably going to get a new filter and keep the heater to see if it works, and then change the bulb on the canopy. But, FREE TANK YEAH!
I've already started pondering my stocking list, probably a school of (maybe) pygmy cories, a school of harlequin rasboras, and I don't know what else (maybe some otos?)
Does anyone have any experience with planting live plants in cory friendly sand, I want another planted tank and I want to have cories, so I need to ensure everyone is happy.
no experience with the plants myself, but one idea for a school-- glowlight tetras or neon tetras.(good sizes for the 20 gallon) i really like harlequins myself-- was going to get some for my 40 gallon community but never saw any that looked good. oh well, next tank maybe.
the_hawke on
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
bettas. the aquatic equivalent of puppies.
They're a different species, Poecilia wingei. Guppies are Poecilia reticulata. Fancy guppies are generally pretty extensive hybrids (some are even crossed with limias or mollies, and mollies themselves are a hybrid of as many as a dozen species), and a lot of endlers sold in stores are guppy hybrids, but there is considerable interest in maintaining the pure strain endlers, and even organizations that certify breeders and stock, as they've gone extinct in the wild.
There was some debate in the 80's and 90's as to whether they were a distinct species or not. Their range was very limited and completely isolated from guppies, at worst they were a subspecies. The argument against was that they could cross and produce viable offspring, but aside from Poecilia formosa*, almsot every livebearer can cross within it's genus and produce viable offspring. Quite a few new world cichlids can cross outside their genus and have produced viable offspring (blood parrots, flowerhorns).
*- Amazon mollies are all female. They mate with males of other molly species, but actually reproduce through parthenogenesis, so they don't hybridize.
if I want to get some endler's, 1. would a betta terrorize them (I know a betta would probably eat any babies) and 2. how do I know it's a pure strain not a hybrid one?
about the betta question... 1. any fish with bright colored flowing fins are at the biggest risk with a betta. fish that are compatible with bettas include harlequin rasboras and white cloud minnows. 2. the biggest factor is actually the temperament of your betta... i had one who lived well in a community tank with some zebra danios and a cory, but i had another that was so territorial that even a snail could not be in the same tank. THAT was fun. not. incidentally, temperament goes a long way with keeping female bettas in a community tank as well. i have one female that is INSANE about her space... she even hates danios. *sigh* i am proud of her though. she was a 'rescue' from Walmart who was just tiny... now she is a force.
the_hawke on
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
bettas. the aquatic equivalent of puppies.
So I managed to get a 20 gal for free! Included are the canopy, heater and filter. I'm probably going to get a new filter and keep the heater to see if it works, and then change the bulb on the canopy. But, FREE TANK YEAH!
I've already started pondering my stocking list, probably a school of (maybe) pygmy cories, a school of harlequin rasboras, and I don't know what else (maybe some otos?)
Does anyone have any experience with planting live plants in cory friendly sand, I want another planted tank and I want to have cories, so I need to ensure everyone is happy.
I have had no success with maintaining live plans in an aquarium for an extended time.
So I managed to get a 20 gal for free! Included are the canopy, heater and filter. I'm probably going to get a new filter and keep the heater to see if it works, and then change the bulb on the canopy. But, FREE TANK YEAH!
I've already started pondering my stocking list, probably a school of (maybe) pygmy cories, a school of harlequin rasboras, and I don't know what else (maybe some otos?)
Does anyone have any experience with planting live plants in cory friendly sand, I want another planted tank and I want to have cories, so I need to ensure everyone is happy.
I have had no success with maintaining live plans in an aquarium for an extended time.
How do you get your plants to not die?
i am wondering this myself for my next tank... so far i can only handle silk and plastic... lol
the_hawke on
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
bettas. the aquatic equivalent of puppies.
Easiest way is to get a flourite substrate, T5 (I usually don't recommend high output T5) lights with growing bulbs, and dose Flourish Excell and comprehensive on the EI method. Print off a deficiency chart, and anything that shows signs of deficiency, get the specific Flourish liquid for that and add it to your dosing routine.
It's not the cheapest method (it's still fairly cheap though) and it won't work for all plants, but some award winning planted aquascapes were maintained on nothing more than flourite and Excell. One of my magazines had an article on one a couple months ago - I don't remember if it was a Takeshi Amano tank or if it beat a Takeshi Amano tank, but it was pretty spectacular for almost no work.
Also, be very careful what plants you get. The majority of plants in the aquarium trade aren't aquatic at all (most are swamp or shore plants that need to have most of the plant above water, some are fully terrestrial), and will eventually rot and die underwater. Many are aquatic but are grown out of water, so they'll "melt" after being planted and usually regrow in their submerged form. A lot of common ones just don't do well at tropical temperatures either.
They're a different species, Poecilia wingei. Guppies are Poecilia reticulata. Fancy guppies are generally pretty extensive hybrids (some are even crossed with limias or mollies, and mollies themselves are a hybrid of as many as a dozen species), and a lot of endlers sold in stores are guppy hybrids, but there is considerable interest in maintaining the pure strain endlers, and even organizations that certify breeders and stock, as they've gone extinct in the wild.
There was some debate in the 80's and 90's as to whether they were a distinct species or not. Their range was very limited and completely isolated from guppies, at worst they were a subspecies. The argument against was that they could cross and produce viable offspring, but aside from Poecilia formosa*, almsot every livebearer can cross within it's genus and produce viable offspring. Quite a few new world cichlids can cross outside their genus and have produced viable offspring (blood parrots, flowerhorns).
*- Amazon mollies are all female. They mate with males of other molly species, but actually reproduce through parthenogenesis, so they don't hybridize.
if I want to get some endler's, 1. would a betta terrorize them (I know a betta would probably eat any babies) and 2. how do I know it's a pure strain not a hybrid one?
about the betta question... 1. any fish with bright colored flowing fins are at the biggest risk with a betta. fish that are compatible with bettas include harlequin rasboras and white cloud minnows. 2. the biggest factor is actually the temperament of your betta... i had one who lived well in a community tank with some zebra danios and a cory, but i had another that was so territorial that even a snail could not be in the same tank. THAT was fun. not. incidentally, temperament goes a long way with keeping female bettas in a community tank as well. i have one female that is INSANE about her space... she even hates danios. *sigh* i am proud of her though. she was a 'rescue' from Walmart who was just tiny... now she is a force.
my betta is currently doing ok with a bunch of other fish
maybe I will try it out and if he is too mean to them I will move em into a 5 gal (or move the betta back to a 5 gal)
So I managed to get a 20 gal for free! Included are the canopy, heater and filter. I'm probably going to get a new filter and keep the heater to see if it works, and then change the bulb on the canopy. But, FREE TANK YEAH!
I've already started pondering my stocking list, probably a school of (maybe) pygmy cories, a school of harlequin rasboras, and I don't know what else (maybe some otos?)
Does anyone have any experience with planting live plants in cory friendly sand, I want another planted tank and I want to have cories, so I need to ensure everyone is happy.
I have had no success with maintaining live plans in an aquarium for an extended time.
How do you get your plants to not die?
i am wondering this myself for my next tank... so far i can only handle silk and plastic... lol
I have anubias plants and they are kinda hard to kill. they grow slowly and as long as you plant them correctly (don't push them too deep into the substrate) they seem to be fine. I throw in some flourish once in a while and got snails to keep them clear of algae.
So I managed to get a 20 gal for free! Included are the canopy, heater and filter. I'm probably going to get a new filter and keep the heater to see if it works, and then change the bulb on the canopy. But, FREE TANK YEAH!
I've already started pondering my stocking list, probably a school of (maybe) pygmy cories, a school of harlequin rasboras, and I don't know what else (maybe some otos?)
Does anyone have any experience with planting live plants in cory friendly sand, I want another planted tank and I want to have cories, so I need to ensure everyone is happy.
I have had no success with maintaining live plans in an aquarium for an extended time.
How do you get your plants to not die?
i am wondering this myself for my next tank... so far i can only handle silk and plastic... lol
I recently started a planted tank and from what I've gathered the most important things for a successful tank is Light and CO2.
Depending on what kind of plants you get they may not need a lot of light, but in general CO2 makes everything flourish.
I just have a 29g tank with a 40w light and that's enough for Java Ferns, Java Moss, Amazon Swords and an Anubias. I had them in a tank for about a month before I added CO2 and afterwards the plants started to look much healthier and started spreading and growing. So CO2 seems to be the biggest difference.
I used this site: http://www.aquahobby.com/e_aquarium_plants.php to find plants suitable for a low light setup. Just make sure you get the plants from a LFS rather than petco/petsmart/etc since the plants they sell there are either in bad shape or ones that don't survive underwater for more than a month or two.
CO2 is kinda situational, depending on what plants you get and how heavily you plant the tank. Most of the time it's only really necessary when you have high light plants. And there's quite a few low light plants where it's not needed at all. To the point where introducing it wont have any noticeable effect. So it's best to research exactly what you want, and tailor everything to that. Though on a small tank, it's really not an issue to run DIY setup, as it's very very cheap and easy. So you might want to just do it anyways.
EDIT: I'm mostly speaking from my own experiences, so may not be the same for you.
There are organic carbon alternatives to CO2 which I personally prefer. Florish Excell is the most available one. Valisneria doesn't like it much, and it'll even kill off some types of aquatic moss (most aquatic mosses are higher order algae, and very few types of algae can utilize organic carbon. Most true plants can). They get expensive, though, I'm probably dumping $20 a month just in carbon into my 55 gallon tank..
CO2 effects your pH, which is the reason I've switched away from it on occasion.
If you go with CO2, do pressurized. I'm running a fermentation reactor right now, which works fine until I have to clean it. If I clean it inside, the bathroom smells with a reek that entire bottles of febreeze has not made a dent in. If I clean it outside, I make the 6 PM news because authorities are still investigating the rancid odor hanging over most of the Lathrup and Homewood areas (Not really, but homeowner's associations three streets over have complained in the newspaper's public forum page).
Does anyone have any experience with purchasing plants online? So far aquariumplants.com looks to be about the best, anyone have any other suggestions?
There are organic carbon alternatives to CO2 which I personally prefer. Florish Excell is the most available one. Valisneria doesn't like it much, and it'll even kill off some types of aquatic moss (most aquatic mosses are higher order algae, and very few types of algae can utilize organic carbon. Most true plants can). They get expensive, though, I'm probably dumping $20 a month just in carbon into my 55 gallon tank..
eep! That's a lot more expensive than pressurized CO2 even after a year.
CO2 effects your pH, which is the reason I've switched away from it on occasion.
Do you really find it's that much of a problem? For me, three or four "tads" of CaCO3 per water change gives a kh of 55ish ppm and I just add enough CO2 to get a pH of 6.5. You seem to have a fantastic grasp on what you're doing, so I'm curious to know why it's an issue for you.
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I have just become the proud new owner of a 10 gallon tank, a filter, heater, bucket, and suction hose.
What better way to celebrate free stuff than pouring more money into using them!
I am a COMPLETE newbie to this, but so far I've got the tank full of water with the heater and filter running. I put in a teaspoon of some sort of anti-chlorine stuff that a friend recommended and a pinch of tetra fish food. Supposedly I want to leave the set up as-is for about two weeks to 'cycle' it before adding fish. Is this true? Is there anything else I need to do in the mean time?
I dont think I want live plants for my first tank, so I will just be getting some sort of gravel and fake plants. Any recommendations here? Do I need to be careful about putting colorful plastic fish castles in there if the paint could come off and mess with the water or anything?
Also, what kind of fish do y'all recommend for an imbecile like me? I hear 10 inches of fish for a 10 gallon tank is the maximum, but I also hear that many fish need to be kept in schools of 3-7. If possible, I'd like to have a variety of fish, but I suppose a couple of interesting larger fish that are hardy and dont mind not having much company would be great too.
Sorry for making this so long, I'm just excited to have found a new drain to throw my money down!
Most of the plastic ornaments sold for aquariums are safe, nothing dangerous is in them to leech out.
However, just letting the tank run doesn't cycle the tank at all. You'll get a very light biofilm, but it's not any type of useful bacteria. There is some extra particulate in the water from the substrate, that'll take about 24 hours to filter out or settle, and it's not harmful anyway. Some ammonia source is required to cycle the tank.
Fish wise: The 1" per gallon rule is kinda bunk. It was somewhat accurate with undergravel filters, but modern power filters are a whole new ballgame - they support higher and more stable colonies, move the water faster, and are quite good at oxygenating the water, so even a heavily overstocked tank will usually be oxygen saturated. Once you get to know it, water stats will tell you if a tank is overstocked or not.
Nice thread with suitable fish for a 10 gallon. You are right, many fish need to be kept in groups - depending on the species, 2-6 is usually minimal, some more like 8-12.
The fish from there I'd suggest the most are the shell dwellers - you can get some hermit crab shells from a pet store for them to live in. Lots of personality for tiny fish.
Other good fish to start with are common guppies - fancy guppies tend to be pretty delicate, but common/feeder guppies are indestructible. Rosey or fathead minnows are a bit bigger, but they're fine in a 10 gallon. They're usually sold as feeders, too, so they're dirt cheap, but probably not terribly healthy when you get them.
Whereabouts do you live, also? You could do something unusual and go out and collect your own fish right from the wild. Every part of the world has some small native fish, and they're usually not covered by fish and game laws. Around here we have darters and a small invasive freshwater goby from Europe, the east coast has sticklebacks, and parts of the western US have invasive bitterlings, probably some local species I don't know about. You'll kinda be in uncharted territory on a lot of that, there's very few North American fish in the hobby, and being wild caught, they probably won't readily take flake food at first, but it's always been something I enjoy trying.
I've been bad... Brought home six baby Kilins today, they're set up in a 40 long in the back room for quarantine.
They're some kind of flowerhorn blood parrot hybrid, but they don't look like the flower-parrots I've seen before. They have the blood parrot deformed head, but their mouths and gills aren't as badly deformed - the gills seem completely normal and their lips are straight, they still can't quite close their mouths. Their mouths are also turned up like a bulldog, which I've never seen in a flowerhorn of any type.
Their eyes are set unusually high on their head (on one of them they clearly stick up above the top of his head). They also have the body shape more of a flowerhorn-convict cross than a flower-parrot. Spectacular blue-green color, even as juveniles.
No idea how big they'll actually get, the breed descriptions I have for kilins have a pretty huge size range, and these definitely aren't pure bred kilin, between the cheap price and convict traits. Kilins shouldn't have functional mouths like this, either.
I bought three yoyo loaches who apparently have no interest in escargot. It is not their cargo.
Anything I can do to persuade them to eat these things? The yoyos are pretty tiny... maybe a little less than an inch right now. I only feed my fish once daily, but I have guppies, albino sharks and a gourami so I can't starve the guys into doing my dirty work.
Are the snails too large maybe? If so give the loaches time for the snails to go through another 'cycle'. Maybe they will go for the babies?
I dont like the sails in my tank either but the girlfriend is all about them and they are helping the guarami with the brown algae that can get in some tight spots.
I know some of the snails are too big... and I don't mind them so much. They really helped with an algae bloom I had a couple of years ago. But there's just too many of them. I try not to feed the fish too much so there's not enough left over food, but the snails still manage to thrive.
I'm hoping the loaches will take an interest in the snails when the loaches get a little bigger. But, I'm a little concerned that maybe they have never been around snails and so don't know how or even that they can eat them. Is this learned or instinctual?
With loaches I have no idea. But I do have a Guarami that ONLY eats flake food. He doesnt go after any of the stuff that I have heard Guarmies likeing. Such as krill, shrimp, etc... I also heard they go after snails but again, I have never seen it. I personally think its an issue of them never having had them so yeah, they just never pick it up.
Eating snails is instinctual, but loaches prefer easy meals - if there's anything easier, they won't go to the effort of sucking a snail out of its shell for a meal.
Set up a few snail traps - put some lettuce or zucchini in a jar and leave it overnight. early in the morning, before there's light on the tank, pull it out and toss it out with any snails you have left. If you want to keep the big ones, you can put them back and just toss the little ones.
Set up a few snail traps - put some lettuce or zucchini in a jar and leave it overnight. early in the morning, before there's light on the tank, pull it out and toss it out with any snails you have left. If you want to keep the big ones, you can put them back and just toss the little ones.
I've tried that. The lettuce was gone by morning, man. They devoured that shit.
And, fucking lazy yoyo loaches. This is why socialism doesn't work.
I'll have to try a different sort of veggie... Maybe an eggplat from my garden.
Jeeze, sounds like a pretty heavy population, then. Do you gravel vac? Stop feeding the tank entirely for 3 or 4 days (fish can go a week no problem, I make mine go 3-4 days every once in a while, helps keep constipation/bloat problems to a minimum) and do some extra heavy gravel cleaning, basically trying to remove anything organic they can be eating.
A few days without food will also encourage all your fish to seek other sources. Try crunching a bigger one against the glass with a fork and see if your fish go for it - nice protein rich snack, good for their color. If they don't go for it, scrape it up before it fouls the water, though, might help the loaches get a taste for snail meat.
The eggplant should be good, too, it'll have more bulk so they won't finish it off as quickly. Try checking it in the middle of the night if possible, instead of leaving it overnight. You can scrape any snails off it then and put it back or replace it with a fresh piece.
So, I'm a week into cycling my tank and I've finally got it all decorated with lots of fake plants, driftwood, and rocks for little fishy friends to hide in. The only thing left to do before the tank is ready is figure out what to put in it!
It's a ten gallon, and my favorite fish so far is the cherry barb. However, I hear that those fish are kind of assholes and will devour anything else that I put in the tank unless I keep them in a school of 6. But if I have 6, there isn't any room for other species in the tank!
Any recommendations for species that would play nicely together in the tank, or should I just go for a school of cherry barbs and maybe add a shrimp or something small for diversity?
So, I'm a week into cycling my tank and I've finally got it all decorated with lots of fake plants, driftwood, and rocks for little fishy friends to hide in. The only thing left to do before the tank is ready is figure out what to put in it!
It's a ten gallon, and my favorite fish so far is the cherry barb. However, I hear that those fish are kind of assholes and will devour anything else that I put in the tank unless I keep them in a school of 6. But if I have 6, there isn't any room for other species in the tank!
Any recommendations for species that would play nicely together in the tank, or should I just go for a school of cherry barbs and maybe add a shrimp or something small for diversity?
if you like the red look I'd recommend ember/ruby tetras (http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_Hyphessobrycon_amandae.php). they will be more timid than your cherry barbs but I love mine, they are so cute. they are a bit smaller so you could have a small school of them and some other fish too.
Thanks for the advice! Pygmy cory cats look pretty incredible. I might be willing to give up the cherry barb dream just to have a group of those little bastards scooting around the tank.
A tragic development has occurred today. The LFS lied about their driftwood being pre-soaked, and told me that all I had to do was boil it for an hour. Well, I did that and 14 hours later my tank is the color of iced tea. Will this clear up on its own? Is it even harmful to fish? Help me, elite beat agents..
The thing about corys though is that they need a very fine substrate (essentially sand) because they rustle through it to find their food. If the substrate is too large their barbels which they use to smell out their food can become damaged.
Jeeze, sounds like a pretty heavy population, then. Do you gravel vac? Stop feeding the tank entirely for 3 or 4 days (fish can go a week no problem, I make mine go 3-4 days every once in a while, helps keep constipation/bloat problems to a minimum) and do some extra heavy gravel cleaning, basically trying to remove anything organic they can be eating.
A few days without food will also encourage all your fish to seek other sources. Try crunching a bigger one against the glass with a fork and see if your fish go for it - nice protein rich snack, good for their color. If they don't go for it, scrape it up before it fouls the water, though, might help the loaches get a taste for snail meat.
The eggplant should be good, too, it'll have more bulk so they won't finish it off as quickly. Try checking it in the middle of the night if possible, instead of leaving it overnight. You can scrape any snails off it then and put it back or replace it with a fresh piece.
Good advice here. I'm a little iffy about vacuuming the substrate cuz there are these cute little worms that live in there. I saw a guppy eating one once. Also, should I not be feeding the guys daily? I feed them once at night with a combination of floaty flakes and sinking pellets.
Good advice here. I'm a little iffy about vacuuming the substrate cuz there are these cute little worms that live in there. I saw a guppy eating one once. Also, should I not be feeding the guys daily? I feed them once at night with a combination of floaty flakes and sinking pellets.
Daily is fine for general community fish. They won't actually overeat - overfeeding problems come from uneaten food in the tank degrading water quality and feeding unwanted inhabitants.
The worms you've seen are probably planarians. They're harmless, and all tanks have some in them, but large enough numbers notice are usually considered a warning sign of an excess of organic matter, which would also be what's sustaining your snail population.
A tragic development has occurred today. The LFS lied about their driftwood being pre-soaked, and told me that all I had to do was boil it for an hour. Well, I did that and 14 hours later my tank is the color of iced tea. Will this clear up on its own? Is it even harmful to fish? Help me, elite beat agents..
The tea color is called tannin. It's harmless, some fish like discus and angelfish actually like it, and seem more relaxed in it. Eventually it'll all leech out of the wood and and normal water changes will remove it, but in the mean time, filter carbon will also remove it.
Just remember filter carbon saturates and stops working in around 2-3 days in the best of circumstances, with tannin in the water it'll go even faster, so you won't see much result unless you use a lot of carbon. You don't really need to use any - the filter companies only push it because it's far more profitable than the filters themselves.
Thank you once again for the advice. In a few days when it's time for a water change I'll see if it gets better.
A new problem has arisen! I just installed a thermometer and have realized how much my tank temperature fluctuates. The tank is in a bedroom where it doesnt get any direct sunlight, and is across the room from the only window so it doesnt get pelted with breeze. Yet somehow the temperature goes from 73F at 8am to 79F at 8pm.
That seems like an awful lot... I'm hoping this won't be the case once the heatwave here (portland OR) passes, but in the meantime should I just set up a box fan to blow warm air out of the window and try to keep the room temperature constant?
My girlfriend are I are looking at getting a salt tank, and are trying to plan out things ahead of time to help avoid things like fish eating each other, overstocking and similar issues. One thing I'm not sure about is regarding cleanup crew quantities; does anyone have a good reference to how to figure out ahead of time if you will have enough of them to keep the tank clean without causing them to starve, or is it pretty much just add as needed until you no longer see any extra algae?
Shrimp vs. urchins vs. starfish vs snails vs. fish (of various sizes in their own rights) makes it seem unclear at best unless I want to get a pre-configured package, and they usually don't have the same species that we are interested in getting.
For reference, we're looking at around a 100gal tank, ideally reef oriented but that's not 100% locked down yet.
Thank you once again for the advice. In a few days when it's time for a water change I'll see if it gets better.
A new problem has arisen! I just installed a thermometer and have realized how much my tank temperature fluctuates. The tank is in a bedroom where it doesnt get any direct sunlight, and is across the room from the only window so it doesnt get pelted with breeze. Yet somehow the temperature goes from 73F at 8am to 79F at 8pm.
That seems like an awful lot... I'm hoping this won't be the case once the heatwave here (portland OR) passes, but in the meantime should I just set up a box fan to blow warm air out of the window and try to keep the room temperature constant?
yes. do you have a heater in there? most of the year in portland you'll want a heater in there to keep the temp constant.
another thing is during a heat wave you may need to turn the heater off. some people I knew were putting frozen ice bottles in their tanks trying to get it to come down from 86 during that heat wave. last summer their tank had a big die off due to a bacteria bloom that resulted from a heat wave.
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Absent the scientific categorization how is a guppy not an endler? In terms of functionality, activity, behavior, reproduction, feeding, etc.? From what I have read it looks like a guppy, it acts like a guppy, it reproduces like a guppy, and it feeds like a guppy.
I'm simply wondering what the difference would be in terms of what the things do. I can get a pair of feeder guppies for $.25 at my local store. What do endlers do that would make me think that I need to get endlers instead?
I'm not trying to be down on endlers either. They are cute. I just wonder what they do that is different from a guppy.
1. Possibly not, male guppies get targeted, but it's more fancy guppies that have big fins. Betas aren't normally aggressive to non-anabantoids, but they're kinda dumb, and can't tell the difference between colorful or long finned fish and another beta.
2. It's pretty hard to tell. If the breeder is certified by one of the endler preservation groups, then you can generally trust them. Otherwise, try your local or state LIvebearer association.
There's a few guidelines, but hybrids can be very close. Large flowing fins on males and almost any coloring in females is a good sign of a fancy guppy hybrid. Delta tails and lyretails are warning signs, but both have been bred out of pure endler strains.
Unless you plan to sell them, really don't worry too much that they're pure. The hybrids are quite hardy, they've got endler colors (or they'd be sold as guppies) and sometimes have better finage.
I rejiggered the plant formation when I moved and need more dudes up top
3 nerite snails
1 betta
2 otos
4 ember tetras (small guys!)
1 forktail rainbowfin dude (he had a mate but she died for unknown reasons
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6bVaqZhJZs
I've already started pondering my stocking list, probably a school of (maybe) pygmy cories, a school of harlequin rasboras, and I don't know what else (maybe some otos?)
Does anyone have any experience with planting live plants in cory friendly sand, I want another planted tank and I want to have cories, so I need to ensure everyone is happy.
no experience with the plants myself, but one idea for a school-- glowlight tetras or neon tetras.(good sizes for the 20 gallon) i really like harlequins myself-- was going to get some for my 40 gallon community but never saw any that looked good.
bettas. the aquatic equivalent of puppies.
about the betta question... 1. any fish with bright colored flowing fins are at the biggest risk with a betta. fish that are compatible with bettas include harlequin rasboras and white cloud minnows. 2. the biggest factor is actually the temperament of your betta... i had one who lived well in a community tank with some zebra danios and a cory, but i had another that was so territorial that even a snail could not be in the same tank. THAT was fun. not. incidentally, temperament goes a long way with keeping female bettas in a community tank as well. i have one female that is INSANE about her space... she even hates danios. *sigh* i am proud of her though. she was a 'rescue' from Walmart who was just tiny... now she is a force.
bettas. the aquatic equivalent of puppies.
I have had no success with maintaining live plans in an aquarium for an extended time.
How do you get your plants to not die?
i am wondering this myself for my next tank... so far i can only handle silk and plastic... lol
bettas. the aquatic equivalent of puppies.
It's not the cheapest method (it's still fairly cheap though) and it won't work for all plants, but some award winning planted aquascapes were maintained on nothing more than flourite and Excell. One of my magazines had an article on one a couple months ago - I don't remember if it was a Takeshi Amano tank or if it beat a Takeshi Amano tank, but it was pretty spectacular for almost no work.
Also, be very careful what plants you get. The majority of plants in the aquarium trade aren't aquatic at all (most are swamp or shore plants that need to have most of the plant above water, some are fully terrestrial), and will eventually rot and die underwater. Many are aquatic but are grown out of water, so they'll "melt" after being planted and usually regrow in their submerged form. A lot of common ones just don't do well at tropical temperatures either.
my betta is currently doing ok with a bunch of other fish
maybe I will try it out and if he is too mean to them I will move em into a 5 gal (or move the betta back to a 5 gal)
I recently started a planted tank and from what I've gathered the most important things for a successful tank is Light and CO2.
Depending on what kind of plants you get they may not need a lot of light, but in general CO2 makes everything flourish.
I just have a 29g tank with a 40w light and that's enough for Java Ferns, Java Moss, Amazon Swords and an Anubias. I had them in a tank for about a month before I added CO2 and afterwards the plants started to look much healthier and started spreading and growing. So CO2 seems to be the biggest difference.
I used this site: http://www.aquahobby.com/e_aquarium_plants.php to find plants suitable for a low light setup. Just make sure you get the plants from a LFS rather than petco/petsmart/etc since the plants they sell there are either in bad shape or ones that don't survive underwater for more than a month or two.
EDIT: I'm mostly speaking from my own experiences, so may not be the same for you.
CO2 effects your pH, which is the reason I've switched away from it on occasion.
If you go with CO2, do pressurized. I'm running a fermentation reactor right now, which works fine until I have to clean it. If I clean it inside, the bathroom smells with a reek that entire bottles of febreeze has not made a dent in. If I clean it outside, I make the 6 PM news because authorities are still investigating the rancid odor hanging over most of the Lathrup and Homewood areas (Not really, but homeowner's associations three streets over have complained in the newspaper's public forum page).
follow up.... what a difference!!(i was worried that tail was never going to grow back... )
so happy she healed nicely!
now back to your regular programming!
bettas. the aquatic equivalent of puppies.
eep! That's a lot more expensive than pressurized CO2 even after a year.
Do you really find it's that much of a problem? For me, three or four "tads" of CaCO3 per water change gives a kh of 55ish ppm and I just add enough CO2 to get a pH of 6.5. You seem to have a fantastic grasp on what you're doing, so I'm curious to know why it's an issue for you.
If you ever need to talk to someone, feel free to message me. Yes, that includes you.
What better way to celebrate free stuff than pouring more money into using them!
I am a COMPLETE newbie to this, but so far I've got the tank full of water with the heater and filter running. I put in a teaspoon of some sort of anti-chlorine stuff that a friend recommended and a pinch of tetra fish food. Supposedly I want to leave the set up as-is for about two weeks to 'cycle' it before adding fish. Is this true? Is there anything else I need to do in the mean time?
I dont think I want live plants for my first tank, so I will just be getting some sort of gravel and fake plants. Any recommendations here? Do I need to be careful about putting colorful plastic fish castles in there if the paint could come off and mess with the water or anything?
Also, what kind of fish do y'all recommend for an imbecile like me? I hear 10 inches of fish for a 10 gallon tank is the maximum, but I also hear that many fish need to be kept in schools of 3-7. If possible, I'd like to have a variety of fish, but I suppose a couple of interesting larger fish that are hardy and dont mind not having much company would be great too.
Sorry for making this so long, I'm just excited to have found a new drain to throw my money down!
However, just letting the tank run doesn't cycle the tank at all. You'll get a very light biofilm, but it's not any type of useful bacteria. There is some extra particulate in the water from the substrate, that'll take about 24 hours to filter out or settle, and it's not harmful anyway. Some ammonia source is required to cycle the tank.
First, on cycling:
General information:
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=175355
Handling a cycle with fish in the tank:
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=224306
Cycling without fish:
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=113861
Fish wise: The 1" per gallon rule is kinda bunk. It was somewhat accurate with undergravel filters, but modern power filters are a whole new ballgame - they support higher and more stable colonies, move the water faster, and are quite good at oxygenating the water, so even a heavily overstocked tank will usually be oxygen saturated. Once you get to know it, water stats will tell you if a tank is overstocked or not.
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=116208
Nice thread with suitable fish for a 10 gallon. You are right, many fish need to be kept in groups - depending on the species, 2-6 is usually minimal, some more like 8-12.
The fish from there I'd suggest the most are the shell dwellers - you can get some hermit crab shells from a pet store for them to live in. Lots of personality for tiny fish.
Other good fish to start with are common guppies - fancy guppies tend to be pretty delicate, but common/feeder guppies are indestructible. Rosey or fathead minnows are a bit bigger, but they're fine in a 10 gallon. They're usually sold as feeders, too, so they're dirt cheap, but probably not terribly healthy when you get them.
Whereabouts do you live, also? You could do something unusual and go out and collect your own fish right from the wild. Every part of the world has some small native fish, and they're usually not covered by fish and game laws. Around here we have darters and a small invasive freshwater goby from Europe, the east coast has sticklebacks, and parts of the western US have invasive bitterlings, probably some local species I don't know about. You'll kinda be in uncharted territory on a lot of that, there's very few North American fish in the hobby, and being wild caught, they probably won't readily take flake food at first, but it's always been something I enjoy trying.
They're some kind of flowerhorn blood parrot hybrid, but they don't look like the flower-parrots I've seen before. They have the blood parrot deformed head, but their mouths and gills aren't as badly deformed - the gills seem completely normal and their lips are straight, they still can't quite close their mouths. Their mouths are also turned up like a bulldog, which I've never seen in a flowerhorn of any type.
Their eyes are set unusually high on their head (on one of them they clearly stick up above the top of his head). They also have the body shape more of a flowerhorn-convict cross than a flower-parrot. Spectacular blue-green color, even as juveniles.
No idea how big they'll actually get, the breed descriptions I have for kilins have a pretty huge size range, and these definitely aren't pure bred kilin, between the cheap price and convict traits. Kilins shouldn't have functional mouths like this, either.
I bought three yoyo loaches who apparently have no interest in escargot. It is not their cargo.
Anything I can do to persuade them to eat these things? The yoyos are pretty tiny... maybe a little less than an inch right now. I only feed my fish once daily, but I have guppies, albino sharks and a gourami so I can't starve the guys into doing my dirty work.
I dont like the sails in my tank either but the girlfriend is all about them and they are helping the guarami with the brown algae that can get in some tight spots.
I'm hoping the loaches will take an interest in the snails when the loaches get a little bigger. But, I'm a little concerned that maybe they have never been around snails and so don't know how or even that they can eat them. Is this learned or instinctual?
How long have you had them?
Set up a few snail traps - put some lettuce or zucchini in a jar and leave it overnight. early in the morning, before there's light on the tank, pull it out and toss it out with any snails you have left. If you want to keep the big ones, you can put them back and just toss the little ones.
I've tried that. The lettuce was gone by morning, man. They devoured that shit.
And, fucking lazy yoyo loaches. This is why socialism doesn't work.
I'll have to try a different sort of veggie... Maybe an eggplat from my garden.
A few days without food will also encourage all your fish to seek other sources. Try crunching a bigger one against the glass with a fork and see if your fish go for it - nice protein rich snack, good for their color. If they don't go for it, scrape it up before it fouls the water, though, might help the loaches get a taste for snail meat.
The eggplant should be good, too, it'll have more bulk so they won't finish it off as quickly. Try checking it in the middle of the night if possible, instead of leaving it overnight. You can scrape any snails off it then and put it back or replace it with a fresh piece.
It's a ten gallon, and my favorite fish so far is the cherry barb. However, I hear that those fish are kind of assholes and will devour anything else that I put in the tank unless I keep them in a school of 6. But if I have 6, there isn't any room for other species in the tank!
Any recommendations for species that would play nicely together in the tank, or should I just go for a school of cherry barbs and maybe add a shrimp or something small for diversity?
if you like the red look I'd recommend ember/ruby tetras (http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_Hyphessobrycon_amandae.php). they will be more timid than your cherry barbs but I love mine, they are so cute. they are a bit smaller so you could have a small school of them and some other fish too.
consider a nerite snail or two for algae control: http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_Neritina_zebra.php
shrimp are super cute too and amano shrimp are pretty easy to take care of.
finally: pygmy cory cats! get at least 3 and they will scoot around the bottom of your tank being awesome.
http://www.aquahobby.com/gallery/e_pygmaeus.php
A tragic development has occurred today. The LFS lied about their driftwood being pre-soaked, and told me that all I had to do was boil it for an hour. Well, I did that and 14 hours later my tank is the color of iced tea. Will this clear up on its own? Is it even harmful to fish? Help me, elite beat agents..
Good advice here. I'm a little iffy about vacuuming the substrate cuz there are these cute little worms that live in there. I saw a guppy eating one once. Also, should I not be feeding the guys daily? I feed them once at night with a combination of floaty flakes and sinking pellets.
Daily is fine for general community fish. They won't actually overeat - overfeeding problems come from uneaten food in the tank degrading water quality and feeding unwanted inhabitants.
The worms you've seen are probably planarians. They're harmless, and all tanks have some in them, but large enough numbers notice are usually considered a warning sign of an excess of organic matter, which would also be what's sustaining your snail population.
The tea color is called tannin. It's harmless, some fish like discus and angelfish actually like it, and seem more relaxed in it. Eventually it'll all leech out of the wood and and normal water changes will remove it, but in the mean time, filter carbon will also remove it.
Just remember filter carbon saturates and stops working in around 2-3 days in the best of circumstances, with tannin in the water it'll go even faster, so you won't see much result unless you use a lot of carbon. You don't really need to use any - the filter companies only push it because it's far more profitable than the filters themselves.
A new problem has arisen! I just installed a thermometer and have realized how much my tank temperature fluctuates. The tank is in a bedroom where it doesnt get any direct sunlight, and is across the room from the only window so it doesnt get pelted with breeze. Yet somehow the temperature goes from 73F at 8am to 79F at 8pm.
That seems like an awful lot... I'm hoping this won't be the case once the heatwave here (portland OR) passes, but in the meantime should I just set up a box fan to blow warm air out of the window and try to keep the room temperature constant?
Shrimp vs. urchins vs. starfish vs snails vs. fish (of various sizes in their own rights) makes it seem unclear at best unless I want to get a pre-configured package, and they usually don't have the same species that we are interested in getting.
For reference, we're looking at around a 100gal tank, ideally reef oriented but that's not 100% locked down yet.
yes. do you have a heater in there? most of the year in portland you'll want a heater in there to keep the temp constant.
another thing is during a heat wave you may need to turn the heater off. some people I knew were putting frozen ice bottles in their tanks trying to get it to come down from 86 during that heat wave. last summer their tank had a big die off due to a bacteria bloom that resulted from a heat wave.