Games Workshop should do the Halo 3 treatment for an IG army fighting Tyranids or Tau or Chaos... With the huge diorama and the model's eye view and everything :P That would be sweet.
Agreed. If you've got an xbox360, do yourself a favor and go onto the live marketplace and find the Halo download that's a behind the scenes shot at the construction of that diorama. It's framed like it's a documentary on the making of some great monument to the battle it depicts - so the narration is a tad on the cheesy side. But seeing the models and some of the techniques, is just awesome. Those models, in case you're not aware, are a far larger scale than anything GW makes. Each soldier is like a large Barbie (Ken?) doll size-wise. But you also get a far better look at the detail in the diorama than what you see in the commercial. It's frikin' awesome - even my wife (who's constantly going on about my "dolls") was impressed.
Hurm, so, the models have been soaking in paint thinner for almost a day now, and I took a toothbrush to one spot of one for about 30 seconds and all that managed to do was remove some dry brushing with no effect on the primer underneath.
Should I leave them soaking for another day or try some other liquid? Does simple green or pinesol work better than paint thinner?
nhey strats it looks like your streets are in need of some more rubble / shit. Cause unless the imperium of man has a house cleaner there would be loads of rubble / burrning tanks etc in the streets, they need some love so to speak. Other then that they are looking good.
Draeven on
Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."
Primer is designed to stay on, so you may want to attack in multiple times.
What I did was use some fairy power spray (dunno what the US equivilant would be, it's basically an all purpose oven cleaner type thing) on my dudes, then attack them with a toothbrush under running water till everything that was coming off was off, then put more spray on them and repeat. I managed to get even plastic that had been painted with ancient enamel semi-clean so you'll either need stronger stuff, or multiple tries if it's not working after a day's soak.
Thanks for the tip Draeven... I do plan to model some craters and stuff to scatter around, so hopefully those roads won't be so clean going forward. I'm just trying to keep the stuff modular, so I can rearrange at will. That kinda limits the extent of built in damage. I'll also eventually build a few more roads, so maybe I can figure out a decent way to model some busted up sections, while still keeping them no thicker than the 1/4" MDF the current ones are made from.
Depends I guess. I've covered old paint up in a few cases, but only like a single layer over a flat surface. You run the real risk of losing your finer detail if you keep layering up new paint. I prefer to start with a clean slate personally.
Dark_Side on
0
AlazullYour body is not a temple, it's an amusement park.Enjoy the ride.Registered Userregular
edited October 2008
So, I'm planning out painting the WAR CE miniature, and I was wondering about some things.
Do you guys think I should try to make his armor black, red, or really dark metal? Like, I've never seen a screenshot of the actual dude, so I'm looking through the O&G army book for inspiration. I kind of like the idea of the armor bring black with red dags or red with black dags, then going over it with mithril silver to make it like scratched up.
Like, what would you do if you could paint this thing.
Alazull on
User name Alazull on Steam, PSN, Nintenders, Epic, etc.
Yesssss I highly recommend getting that video, a little hurf blurf, but I love themed material like that which acts as if the fantasy world is real.They don't really explain or show much technically, but there are a lot of close up shots which the commercial glazed over. I especially like the use of fiber optics for the sparkle effect on the explosions.
Got my can foam today, two types, one high and one low expansion, I'll post pictures once the shit has had time to gas off and I can bring it inside.
Hurm, so, the models have been soaking in paint thinner for almost a day now, and I took a toothbrush to one spot of one for about 30 seconds and all that managed to do was remove some dry brushing with no effect on the primer underneath.
Should I leave them soaking for another day or try some other liquid? Does simple green or pinesol work better than paint thinner?
Well part of the problem is that paint thinner is meant for thinning oil based paints, and it doesn't really do all that much to acrylics. You might wanna try the other stuff, though I don't see pinesol doing anything.
Also, I'll have a picture of the 3 orks I painted with my liquid acrylics up at some point.
These are what I used, in part, on them. the rest was just the normal citadel junk.
If it helps, this is the official scheme for the dude.
It helps a bit, but I'm not really liking the armor's look. Like, he's wearing a hodgepodge of armor but it all happens to be made out of unpainted metal. There isn't many orcs that could resist a nice red paint job here or there.
I'm thinking I'll paint a majority of the armor in the rusty metal fashion, such as the scale mail he's wearing. The big shoulder pad is probably going to be red, and the shoulder pad the gobbo is standing on will be something else. I'll probably do the axe in a similar fashion as the official model because it looks pretty much like what I wanted to do to begin with. As for the icon on his midsection, I'm going to paint it gold then cover it with a red ink wash, because I kind of don't like the idea of orcs having stretched squig faces on their armor that somehow don't look decomposed. Also, I'm going to paint his skin to look black orcish rather than a normal orc.
As for the gobbo himself, his staff icon is going to be gold or bronze. The beards that make up the trim around his neck with probably be grey to represent him collecting the beards of Longbeards, while his top knot will be red or orange. I'll try to emulate the greenish-brown color of his cloak. I'm not totally sold on how I'm going to base this model yet. I sawed off the tab because it was bent to the point I was going to have to file it down to almost nothing to fit it in a slotta base. I'll probably get a solid version of the same base and pin the model to it so I work on the base and model seperately until both are done.
If you're wondering why I'm going into such depth discussing my plans on painting him, it's because this is going to be my biggest effort on painting to date. Not saying Golden Demon quality, but I'm really challenging myself to bring my standards up for this guy. So it's going to take me a month or so to finish him and I want to put all my thoughts in one place. Further input is welcome, especially about using different color schemes on different parts of the armor.
Alazull on
User name Alazull on Steam, PSN, Nintenders, Epic, etc.
so i messed up a drybrushing, too much paint maybe or too much rubbing it on stuff. Black legs now look like they got a white sheen of varnish over them. So, just paint it black or drybrush over it with black?
I'm not sure if and/or when I will get around to it, but I really want to model and paint some Space Marines at some point. I've never really done anything at all like this before...
Is base-coating with black really a bad idea for a beginner? I really love the sort of cel-shaded look of this guy's Imperial Fists. Is there another way to achieve something like that?
Base-coating with black has nothing to do with skill level, it's just a good idea. I prime gray, base-coat black, and then color the model whatever the primary color is. Base-coating black is good for darker, more somber colors, like the grays, browns, and greens I use because it helps mute the color. You base-coat white for colors that you want to be brighter, and stand out more clearly.
I'm not sure if and/or when I will get around to it, but I really want to model and paint some Space Marines at some point. I've never really done anything at all like this before...
Is base-coating with black really a bad idea for a beginner? I really love the sort of cel-shaded look of this guy's Imperial Fists. Is there another way to achieve something like that?
Generally light colours on black base are a VERY bad idea for beginners, you're going to have nothing but frustration unless you know what you're getting into, and how to go about building up layers.
So, I'm about to paint up an apothecary... Should these guys be painted all white, to represent their position? Just a white helmet (and possibly a shoulderpad)?
So, I'm about to paint up an apothecary... Should these guys be painted all white, to represent their position? Just a white helmet (and possibly a shoulderpad)?
You can go either way - I've seen it done as all white with the shoulderpad(s) in chapter livery - or the other way around. Both are perfectly valid.
Ah no, i've got a few bottles of various color primer laying about here. Spraypaint is just easy and convenient, if pricey.
then, i was lied to at the comic shop.
ninjer, did you get started with this yet? did you decide on a set to buy?
You can get a plain black gesso from any art store (you can get a bucket that will last your whole life for like $20). It's worked well for me in the past, especially on metal models, but it really does seem to double your overall painting time.
I eventually switched to spray on because it's just so damn fast and convenient.
WulfDisciple of TzeentchThe Void... (New Jersey)Registered Userregular
edited October 2008
Okay, time for Grey Knights!
Nearly done. Just need to finish the little details, do some drybrushing and a little more washing and then the weapon's haft will be coated with gloss mixed with some more Bhaal Red to give it the look of polished Cherry while the rest of the model will be hit with Dullcoat.
Does anyone have any advice for painting eyes? I've been doing some work on some Dwarven Handgunners, and while I can get the basic colors and schemes down pretty well, the eyes come out looking pretty terrible.
Is it just a brush size or a technique thing?
Ultros64 on
It doesn't matter what I say, as long as I sing with inflection
Ah no, i've got a few bottles of various color primer laying about here. Spraypaint is just easy and convenient, if pricey.
then, i was lied to at the comic shop.
ninjer, did you get started with this yet? did you decide on a set to buy?
no I am gonna probably go to a friends house this weekend and will go to a hobby shop he usually hangs out at and grab some shit and yeah I am gonna get some orcs to start
Eyes= there are possibly more in depth techniques around but the jist of it is that I paint the whole eye black then edge in the white, rather than trying to dot in the black and ending up with a cross eyed dude.
My advice for eyes, less is more. for Mydwarves I don't paint the eyes in at all, as dwarves tend to have little scrunched up eyes that are hard to see anyway.
Ah no, i've got a few bottles of various color primer laying about here. Spraypaint is just easy and convenient, if pricey.
then, i was lied to at the comic shop.
ninjer, did you get started with this yet? did you decide on a set to buy?
no I am gonna probably go to a friends house this weekend and will go to a hobby shop he usually hangs out at and grab some shit and yeah I am gonna get some orcs to start
which ones though?
i'll probably get the spray paint if that's easier. i just thought i'd try to save some money with a small pot of primer.
There's no reason not to use spray on primer. The whole point of primer is to coat the model in it, and I just can't find a justification for the time it would take to paint it on vs spraying. The tamiya primer I use is something like $5 a can, but krylon plastic primer is something like $3 for a huge spray can of it. I can't imagine that you can get paint on primer for a better deal than that, especially with the additional time it takes to apply.
There's no reason not to use spray on primer. The whole point of primer is to coat the model in it, and I just can't find a justification for the time it would take to paint it on vs spraying. The tamiya primer I use is something like $5 a can, but krylon plastic primer is something like $3 for a huge spray can of it. I can't imagine that you can get paint on primer for a better deal than that, especially with the additional time it takes to apply.
And it works like WOAH. Just... Don't use it on Grey Knights in low light... I had to wait until it was sunny out to make sure I got the Boltgun Metal on fully :P
Edit: also, if anyone has some suggestions on how to make my GK's better, please, let me know!
Posts
Agreed. If you've got an xbox360, do yourself a favor and go onto the live marketplace and find the Halo download that's a behind the scenes shot at the construction of that diorama. It's framed like it's a documentary on the making of some great monument to the battle it depicts - so the narration is a tad on the cheesy side. But seeing the models and some of the techniques, is just awesome. Those models, in case you're not aware, are a far larger scale than anything GW makes. Each soldier is like a large Barbie (Ken?) doll size-wise. But you also get a far better look at the detail in the diorama than what you see in the commercial. It's frikin' awesome - even my wife (who's constantly going on about my "dolls") was impressed.
I now have what I consider enough to crew a vehicle, so I guess I'd better paint one of the cutters for them to live in.
Hurm, so, the models have been soaking in paint thinner for almost a day now, and I took a toothbrush to one spot of one for about 30 seconds and all that managed to do was remove some dry brushing with no effect on the primer underneath.
Should I leave them soaking for another day or try some other liquid? Does simple green or pinesol work better than paint thinner?
What I did was use some fairy power spray (dunno what the US equivilant would be, it's basically an all purpose oven cleaner type thing) on my dudes, then attack them with a toothbrush under running water till everything that was coming off was off, then put more spray on them and repeat. I managed to get even plastic that had been painted with ancient enamel semi-clean so you'll either need stronger stuff, or multiple tries if it's not working after a day's soak.
Do you guys think I should try to make his armor black, red, or really dark metal? Like, I've never seen a screenshot of the actual dude, so I'm looking through the O&G army book for inspiration. I kind of like the idea of the armor bring black with red dags or red with black dags, then going over it with mithril silver to make it like scratched up.
Like, what would you do if you could paint this thing.
Got my can foam today, two types, one high and one low expansion, I'll post pictures once the shit has had time to gas off and I can bring it inside.
Well part of the problem is that paint thinner is meant for thinning oil based paints, and it doesn't really do all that much to acrylics. You might wanna try the other stuff, though I don't see pinesol doing anything.
Also, I'll have a picture of the 3 orks I painted with my liquid acrylics up at some point.
These are what I used, in part, on them. the rest was just the normal citadel junk.
It helps a bit, but I'm not really liking the armor's look. Like, he's wearing a hodgepodge of armor but it all happens to be made out of unpainted metal. There isn't many orcs that could resist a nice red paint job here or there.
I'm thinking I'll paint a majority of the armor in the rusty metal fashion, such as the scale mail he's wearing. The big shoulder pad is probably going to be red, and the shoulder pad the gobbo is standing on will be something else. I'll probably do the axe in a similar fashion as the official model because it looks pretty much like what I wanted to do to begin with. As for the icon on his midsection, I'm going to paint it gold then cover it with a red ink wash, because I kind of don't like the idea of orcs having stretched squig faces on their armor that somehow don't look decomposed. Also, I'm going to paint his skin to look black orcish rather than a normal orc.
As for the gobbo himself, his staff icon is going to be gold or bronze. The beards that make up the trim around his neck with probably be grey to represent him collecting the beards of Longbeards, while his top knot will be red or orange. I'll try to emulate the greenish-brown color of his cloak. I'm not totally sold on how I'm going to base this model yet. I sawed off the tab because it was bent to the point I was going to have to file it down to almost nothing to fit it in a slotta base. I'll probably get a solid version of the same base and pin the model to it so I work on the base and model seperately until both are done.
If you're wondering why I'm going into such depth discussing my plans on painting him, it's because this is going to be my biggest effort on painting to date. Not saying Golden Demon quality, but I'm really challenging myself to bring my standards up for this guy. So it's going to take me a month or so to finish him and I want to put all my thoughts in one place. Further input is welcome, especially about using different color schemes on different parts of the armor.
Is base-coating with black really a bad idea for a beginner? I really love the sort of cel-shaded look of this guy's Imperial Fists. Is there another way to achieve something like that?
Generally light colours on black base are a VERY bad idea for beginners, you're going to have nothing but frustration unless you know what you're getting into, and how to go about building up layers.
then, i was lied to at the comic shop.
ninjer, did you get started with this yet? did you decide on a set to buy?
You can go either way - I've seen it done as all white with the shoulderpad(s) in chapter livery - or the other way around. Both are perfectly valid.
Thoughts of a Part-Time Hobbyist - A Wargaming and RPG Blog
You can get a plain black gesso from any art store (you can get a bucket that will last your whole life for like $20). It's worked well for me in the past, especially on metal models, but it really does seem to double your overall painting time.
I eventually switched to spray on because it's just so damn fast and convenient.
Nearly done. Just need to finish the little details, do some drybrushing and a little more washing and then the weapon's haft will be coated with gloss mixed with some more Bhaal Red to give it the look of polished Cherry while the rest of the model will be hit with Dullcoat.
Edit: Oh god, I've SJ'/Timsporked the thread :P
Is it just a brush size or a technique thing?
no I am gonna probably go to a friends house this weekend and will go to a hobby shop he usually hangs out at and grab some shit and yeah I am gonna get some orcs to start
which ones though?
i'll probably get the spray paint if that's easier. i just thought i'd try to save some money with a small pot of primer.
also I am sad I was looking at 40k Orks and they don't have my favorite unit from dawn of war
And it works like WOAH. Just... Don't use it on Grey Knights in low light... I had to wait until it was sunny out to make sure I got the Boltgun Metal on fully :P
Edit: also, if anyone has some suggestions on how to make my GK's better, please, let me know!