Hey, Transformers thread. Err, I mean figure thread. Opinions wanted.
I'm still eBaying the crap out of my old stuff and decided to look up how old Megazord (the original from the 90s) is doing online. Looks like $50-135 or so (because eBay is so random). And then I see a listing that ended May 28th for $400(!). The listing has no weapons, missing the Pink Ranger zord, T-rex tail tip is missing, no Blue Ranger dino horns, and some wear here and there. How do things like that go for so much? I almost want to throw mine up for something similar. I think I am at the point where I can part with it to buy a Wii U and Mario Kart. :-X
Hey, Transformers thread. Err, I mean figure thread. Opinions wanted.
I'm still eBaying the crap out of my old stuff and decided to look up how old Megazord (the original from the 90s) is doing online. Looks like $50-135 or so (because eBay is so random). And then I see a listing that ended May 28th for $400(!). The listing has no weapons, missing the Pink Ranger zord, T-rex tail tip is missing, no Blue Ranger dino horns, and some wear here and there. How do things like that go for so much? I almost want to throw mine up for something similar. I think I am at the point where I can part with it to buy a Wii U and Mario Kart. :-X
Whenever I see an auction like that, where the final bid is all out of proportion to what's being offered or other similar auctions, I just assume it's part of a money laundering scheme or some other scam.
But then, I have little faith in humanity in general, and tend to lean pessimistically in most cases.
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143999Tellin' yanot askin' ya, not pleadin' with yaRegistered Userregular
I'm sitting here staring at poor Generations Tailgate, and I just can't do anything with Groundpounder that doesn't make him look like a turbofox pooper scooper.
Poor little waste disposal bot.
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
edited June 2014
Man I'm reminded that I have a ton of unopened figures that I could sell on Ebay. Only problem is international postage from Australia is pretty expensive. This means if I want to sell my stuff at similar prices to the stuff already listed on ebay, I'll probably end up not making a profit for what I paid for them. For example my Toybiz Marvel Legends, but then nobody's going to want to buy a figure like Giant Man series Sabertooth anyway
And there's also the chance that some of it might get opened by customs or even returned due to some contamination or whatever. For example the unopened Alternators Nemesis Prime has a dead silverfish inside the packaging.
Man I'm reminded that I have a ton of unopened figures that I could sell on Ebay. Only problem is international postage from Australia is pretty expensive. This means if I want to sell my stuff at similar prices to the stuff already listed on ebay, I'll probably end up not making a profit for what I paid for them. For example my Toybiz Marvel Legends, but then nobody's going to want to buy a figure like Giant Man series Sabertooth anyway
And there's also the chance that some of it might get opened by customs or even returned due to some contamination or whatever. For example the unopened Alternators Nemesis Prime has a dead silverfish inside the packaging.
eBay has this thing called Global Shipping Program (at least in the US) where I ship to a location in the US and they take care of the rest. I have yet to hear anything bad via my dealings with it. From small things like a tshirt to (I believe it was...) my lot of Transformers. No bad feedback or emails. I assume the GSP is just a thing for people in the US though.
HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
I can't really find anything about using the GSP for shipping from Australia. There's shipping estimates, but I don't really know how that works. Also apparently Australia Post label printing on eBay is not available for items being sent internationally. This is all so confusing, but I know it'll be worth researching so I can finally get rid of my unopened figures and make some extra cash
143999Tellin' yanot askin' ya, not pleadin' with yaRegistered Userregular
Jeez, there's one of those on eBay right now going for $70AU...with $50 more in shipping. Standard international flat rate, whatever that is.
Actually, wait. This guy has 10 of those left at that price, with one sold.
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
I think if I were to sell my stuff internationally i'd have to give up all hope of making any sort of profit. In other words I am never going to buy anything for the purpose of selling them later ever again. On the plus side if I was to sell all my unopened stuff I might be able to afford a few games
HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
My MG Jesta kit arrived today but I haven't gotten around to starting it yet. I have my 400 grit and 1200 grit sanding sticks made though, and all the tools, paints, etc I may need when putting this thing together.
I think my biggest worry will will accidentally ruining it by trying to get rid of nubs. When I put together the LED, I tried using the file from my tamiya tool set to get rid of the nubs, but ended up either filing too much or missing the mark and taking a bit off the area around the nub. I'm hoping the sanding sticks will be more forgiving than the file.
Well they are not the most questionable collectable I have seen at a con
I am scared to look at my Perfect Grade Wing Zero as last time I touched it was the night before a certain day
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143999Tellin' yanot askin' ya, not pleadin' with yaRegistered Userregular
That Microblaze video is better than most of the Rise of the Dark Spark videos I've seen.
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
edited June 2014
Well shit I wasn't able to win my Paypal claim for the additional shipping refund. Hopefully I can win a refund for the actual figure. God I fucking hate Direct Japan
In other news I changed my HLJ order for MP Ultra Magnus to Private Warehouse, since I'll be overseas between the 3rd and 10th of January 2015, and which is when I'm guessing the order would have arrived had I kept the order as Ship When Available.
EDIT: Started my MG Jesta. After over sanding several pieces I think I'm just going to cut nub off completely and just hope lightly sanding will be enough
EDIT EDIT: UGH! Screw it I'll just put paint of the nub marks! I keep missing the mark and scratching up other areas!
EDIT EDIT EDIT: Hmm. Maybe I should just paint the nub marks after I've put the kit together
HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
edited June 2014
I've ended up just shaving it with a blade and painting over it. The paint I have 95% matches the plastic, making it barely noticable.
Anyway I have a good portion of the kit done already. I only have the legs, the grenade skirts, the backpack and weapons to go, and then all I'll have to do it put on the dry transfer decals and green foil sticker on the helmet. I really like the kit so far, but because of all the work needed for the nub marks, I think I'll hold off marking another kit after this one. Although I do want make the MG Red Frame and Buster eventually. Particularly the Red Frame with it's sweet Chrome swords.
Oh and I need to do the panel lines as well.
BTW the hands on this kit are awesome! I have no idea how Bandai got the fingers to be articulated, but I hope this feature on the two kits I'm keen to build
Speaking of MG Red Frame I got mine in today along with HG Gold Frame Astray. Now I have 3 MG and 1 HG kit here along with another MG and HG on the way.
Good times ahead!
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Forever Zefirocloaked in the midnight glory of an event horizonRegistered Userregular
damn, has this thread really been around since 2008? that's pretty crazy
know what else is pretty crazy? I kinda accidently spent $300 on threezero's Full Metal Ghost
XBL - Foreverender | 3DS FC - 1418 6696 1012 | Steam ID | LoL
Honestly? That thing looks totally worth it. Did you accidentally spend $300 on it or "accidentally" spend $300 on it?
Also totally worth it? Kre-O Grimlock Unleashed set. You can have Kreon Grimlock riding Kre-O Grimlock. Who wouldn't want that?
But I really need to get around to makeing a better Kreon display. Does anyone know of any links to other peoples' display that I can steal borrow elements from judiciously?
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
edited June 2014
I agree that it looks worth it. What's not to like about a big robot Samurai
Also I finished putting together the body of my MG Jesta. The only noticeable nub marks I think are on he light blue/gray parts, but at least it's not white. When I've finished the assessories then I'll do the dry transfer decals and panel lining.
BTW what comes first? The panel lining or the decal? I'm thinking it's the panel lining but I'm not sure. Oh and I still have to put on the camera sticker, but I'm kind of tempted to just paint it.
I don't cook, but I hear that cooking and building model kits is similar- It's all about knowing how/when to skip/simplify steps. Doing it the "correct" way (i.e. following everything on tutorials) will of course get you results, but you're going to take wayyyyyy longer to do stuff than you should. If you're going to paint then there's really no point filing/sanding everything down perfectly; You can just knife that stuff off and the paint will hide it fine (in fact, if you do it right the gate marks won't stand out that much even if you're not painting it).
The panel lining or the decal? I'm thinking it's the panel lining but I'm not sure.
It depends on how you're doing it, but panel lining usually comes first- You may very well mess up your decals during the panel lining process if you do it the other way round.
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
I'm not painting it, only the nub marks. Also I'll be using the real touch markers for panel lining. I think I should have done them because I put finished putting the body together because there are some areas where a rubber won't be able to reach to remove any mishaps. They're mostly vents though so I should be fine I guess
Ahhh, with RT markers it's easier to wipe off residue with a tissue, and that will certainly mess with your decals if you put them on first.
Did you get a set? Because they're great for panel lining but are actually meant for weathering (link in Japanese, but hey, pictures), and can make an unpainted kit look better than a painted one.
Ah well, I find that a tissue's usually more than enough. If you're just panel lining you only actually need one of those when you smudge some ink and then leave it to dry for too long.
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
Honestly? That thing looks totally worth it. Did you accidentally spend $300 on it or "accidentally" spend $300 on it?
well I preordered it at BBTS sometime last year when I first saw it because holy shit it's like the coolest thing I've ever seen
and then I would check back occasionally but there was never a real release date and then I got an email a few days ago saying "Your Preordered Item(s) Are Here! Check out your Pile of Loot!"
but how can I say no to a 18" fully articulated highly detailed giant samurai robot with light up features and a 6" pilot that can actually fit in the cockpit
... I need to sell some stuff
XBL - Foreverender | 3DS FC - 1418 6696 1012 | Steam ID | LoL
I agree that it looks worth it. What's not to like about a big robot Samurai
Also I finished putting together the body of my MG Jesta. The only noticeable nub marks I think are on he light blue/gray parts, but at least it's not white. When I've finished the assessories then I'll do the dry transfer decals and panel lining.
BTW what comes first? The panel lining or the decal? I'm thinking it's the panel lining but I'm not sure. Oh and I still have to put on the camera sticker, but I'm kind of tempted to just paint it.
As for this, what I've been doing is just building the kit and panel lining and putting on it as I go since I'm not painting anything. You just need to look at where the stickers are being applied and see if you need to panel line under or around them before you put them on.
As for getting rid of unwanted panel line marker, a cotton swab work really well. I was using tissues at first too but it's easier to reach into small angles and such with the swab. Then what I do is use a small amount of water on my finger and just rub away any excess if it gets all over the place. Which it can. Seems to work for me.
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143999Tellin' yanot askin' ya, not pleadin' with yaRegistered Userregular
Speaking of surprise preorders, the Warbotron guys are doing a Computron, and it's huge like their Bruticus, and you can preorder their Afterburner now, but I'm not going to because individual robots that are almost as tall as MP starscream won't scale well with most of my other combiners. Plus, the arms on their version's combined mode look bad. Plus, Maketoys' version will be cheaper. Plus....
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Forever Zefirocloaked in the midnight glory of an event horizonRegistered Userregular
their notComputron looks easily worse than Quantron
XBL - Foreverender | 3DS FC - 1418 6696 1012 | Steam ID | LoL
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
edited June 2014
Finished putting all the pieces together for my MG Jesta! All that's left is panel lining, the camera sticker and the dry transfer decals. With the decals I'm thinking of putting a clear coat over them for protection
EDIT: Uh oh. I was trying to push the peg in the gun handle in more and I accidentally BENT it. I hope it won't break off
EDIT EDIT: Finished panel lining and applying the dry transfer decals and green sticker. I applied a dab of gloss over the decals as well as the sticker, although I probably should have put some glue behind the sticker to keep it place. Too late now, I just need to hope for the best.
Problems I came across building this kit were the nub marks on the light blue/gray plastic. I thought the paint I used for it was a match but it ended up darker upon drying. I'm thinking of mixing the paint with some white to lighten it up and going over those nub marks again, but not tonight. In regards to the decals I messed up I two of them. The first one was a AE decal and now looks horrible, but is on the back shoulder anyway, so I'll never see it in display, and the other is one of those triangular logos with bells, but only the bottom line is a little rough, the rest is fine. As for the panel lining, I really should have done it while I was building because the hidden areas were a pain. the rest was easy it was just the those areas. I also really liked how the markers gave the figure a stained look.
Overall I really love this figure and I'll be taking some photos tomorrow
Also, wow! The MG Jesta is huge compared to the MG F91 I built years ago. Awesome!
Finished putting all the pieces together for my MG Jesta! All that's left is panel lining, the camera sticker and the dry transfer decals. With the decals I'm thinking of putting a clear coat over them for protection
EDIT: Uh oh. I was trying to push the peg in the gun handle in more and I accidentally BENT it. I hope it won't break off
EDIT EDIT: Finished panel lining and applying the dry transfer decals and green sticker. I applied a dab of gloss over the decals as well as the sticker, although I probably should have put some glue behind the sticker to keep it place. Too late now, I just need to hope for the best.
Problems I came across building this kit were the nub marks on the light blue/gray plastic. I thought the paint I used for it was a match but it ended up darker upon drying. I'm thinking of mixing the paint with some white to lighten it up and going over those nub marks again, but not tonight. In regards to the decals I messed up I two of them. The first one was a AE decal and now looks horrible, but is on the back shoulder anyway, so I'll never see it in display, and the other is one of those triangular logos with bells, but only the bottom line is a little rough, the rest is fine. As for the panel lining, I really should have done it while I was building because the hidden areas were a pain. the rest was easy it was just the those areas. I also really liked how the markers gave the figure a stained look.
Overall I really love this figure and I'll be taking some photos tomorrow
Also, wow! The MG Jesta is huge compared to the MG F91 I built years ago. Awesome!
Late UC stuff (F91 and Victory) is tiny compared to early UC (in-universe excuse: Higher technology makes stuff smaller. Real world reasoning: "HEY GUYS I FIGURED OUT A WAY TO MAKE MORE MONEY WITH LESS PLASTIC"), and CCA/Unicorn era stuff is the biggest.
Posts
I'm still eBaying the crap out of my old stuff and decided to look up how old Megazord (the original from the 90s) is doing online. Looks like $50-135 or so (because eBay is so random). And then I see a listing that ended May 28th for $400(!). The listing has no weapons, missing the Pink Ranger zord, T-rex tail tip is missing, no Blue Ranger dino horns, and some wear here and there. How do things like that go for so much? I almost want to throw mine up for something similar. I think I am at the point where I can part with it to buy a Wii U and Mario Kart. :-X
Tumblr | Twitter | Twitch | Pinny Arcade Lanyard
[3DS] 3394-3901-4002 | [Xbox/Steam] Redfield85
Whenever I see an auction like that, where the final bid is all out of proportion to what's being offered or other similar auctions, I just assume it's part of a money laundering scheme or some other scam.
But then, I have little faith in humanity in general, and tend to lean pessimistically in most cases.
Poor little waste disposal bot.
And there's also the chance that some of it might get opened by customs or even returned due to some contamination or whatever. For example the unopened Alternators Nemesis Prime has a dead silverfish inside the packaging.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
eBay has this thing called Global Shipping Program (at least in the US) where I ship to a location in the US and they take care of the rest. I have yet to hear anything bad via my dealings with it. From small things like a tshirt to (I believe it was...) my lot of Transformers. No bad feedback or emails. I assume the GSP is just a thing for people in the US though.
Tumblr | Twitter | Twitch | Pinny Arcade Lanyard
[3DS] 3394-3901-4002 | [Xbox/Steam] Redfield85
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
Actually, wait. This guy has 10 of those left at that price, with one sold.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
The Nightengale and Hi-Nu Gundam kits are available for preorder on HLJ. They're also on amiami but Nightengale is sold out already there.
that's depressing
XBL - Foreverender | 3DS FC - 1418 6696 1012 | Steam ID | LoL
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
http://www.hollywood-collectibles.com/apc/
what in the shit
After extensive consideration:
Something really fucking stupid. And, unfortunately, stupid in the bad way.
Why I fear the ocean.
I think my biggest worry will will accidentally ruining it by trying to get rid of nubs. When I put together the LED, I tried using the file from my tamiya tool set to get rid of the nubs, but ended up either filing too much or missing the mark and taking a bit off the area around the nub. I'm hoping the sanding sticks will be more forgiving than the file.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
I am scared to look at my Perfect Grade Wing Zero as last time I touched it was the night before a certain day
In other news I changed my HLJ order for MP Ultra Magnus to Private Warehouse, since I'll be overseas between the 3rd and 10th of January 2015, and which is when I'm guessing the order would have arrived had I kept the order as Ship When Available.
EDIT: Started my MG Jesta. After over sanding several pieces I think I'm just going to cut nub off completely and just hope lightly sanding will be enough
EDIT EDIT: UGH! Screw it I'll just put paint of the nub marks! I keep missing the mark and scratching up other areas!
EDIT EDIT EDIT: Hmm. Maybe I should just paint the nub marks after I've put the kit together
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
In fact, here is a giant list of Gundam kit guides that I have barely scratched the surface of.
But never mind that shit, I just found and bought this Kre-O G1 Grimlock set today and it is glorious. Can't wait to put it together tomorrow.
Anyway I have a good portion of the kit done already. I only have the legs, the grenade skirts, the backpack and weapons to go, and then all I'll have to do it put on the dry transfer decals and green foil sticker on the helmet. I really like the kit so far, but because of all the work needed for the nub marks, I think I'll hold off marking another kit after this one. Although I do want make the MG Red Frame and Buster eventually. Particularly the Red Frame with it's sweet Chrome swords.
Oh and I need to do the panel lines as well.
BTW the hands on this kit are awesome! I have no idea how Bandai got the fingers to be articulated, but I hope this feature on the two kits I'm keen to build
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
Good times ahead!
know what else is pretty crazy? I kinda accidently spent $300 on threezero's Full Metal Ghost
XBL - Foreverender | 3DS FC - 1418 6696 1012 | Steam ID | LoL
Also totally worth it? Kre-O Grimlock Unleashed set. You can have Kreon Grimlock riding Kre-O Grimlock. Who wouldn't want that?
But I really need to get around to makeing a better Kreon display. Does anyone know of any links to other peoples' display that I can steal borrow elements from judiciously?
Also I finished putting together the body of my MG Jesta. The only noticeable nub marks I think are on he light blue/gray parts, but at least it's not white. When I've finished the assessories then I'll do the dry transfer decals and panel lining.
BTW what comes first? The panel lining or the decal? I'm thinking it's the panel lining but I'm not sure. Oh and I still have to put on the camera sticker, but I'm kind of tempted to just paint it.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
It depends on how you're doing it, but panel lining usually comes first- You may very well mess up your decals during the panel lining process if you do it the other way round.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
Did you get a set? Because they're great for panel lining but are actually meant for weathering (link in Japanese, but hey, pictures), and can make an unpainted kit look better than a painted one.
And if you don't already know, do note that the biggest advantage to using RT markers for panel lining is being able to just half-assedly slap on some ink and then just wipe off the residue with a tissue so that it looks perfect. If you have a "bokashi pen" you can use that to clean up bits left a bit too dirty for your liking. (More reference)
I bought 3 dark grey RT markers.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
well I preordered it at BBTS sometime last year when I first saw it because holy shit it's like the coolest thing I've ever seen
and then I would check back occasionally but there was never a real release date and then I got an email a few days ago saying "Your Preordered Item(s) Are Here! Check out your Pile of Loot!"
but how can I say no to a 18" fully articulated highly detailed giant samurai robot with light up features and a 6" pilot that can actually fit in the cockpit
... I need to sell some stuff
XBL - Foreverender | 3DS FC - 1418 6696 1012 | Steam ID | LoL
As for this, what I've been doing is just building the kit and panel lining and putting on it as I go since I'm not painting anything. You just need to look at where the stickers are being applied and see if you need to panel line under or around them before you put them on.
As for getting rid of unwanted panel line marker, a cotton swab work really well. I was using tissues at first too but it's easier to reach into small angles and such with the swab. Then what I do is use a small amount of water on my finger and just rub away any excess if it gets all over the place. Which it can. Seems to work for me.
XBL - Foreverender | 3DS FC - 1418 6696 1012 | Steam ID | LoL
EDIT: Uh oh. I was trying to push the peg in the gun handle in more and I accidentally BENT it. I hope it won't break off
EDIT EDIT: Finished panel lining and applying the dry transfer decals and green sticker. I applied a dab of gloss over the decals as well as the sticker, although I probably should have put some glue behind the sticker to keep it place. Too late now, I just need to hope for the best.
Problems I came across building this kit were the nub marks on the light blue/gray plastic. I thought the paint I used for it was a match but it ended up darker upon drying. I'm thinking of mixing the paint with some white to lighten it up and going over those nub marks again, but not tonight. In regards to the decals I messed up I two of them. The first one was a AE decal and now looks horrible, but is on the back shoulder anyway, so I'll never see it in display, and the other is one of those triangular logos with bells, but only the bottom line is a little rough, the rest is fine. As for the panel lining, I really should have done it while I was building because the hidden areas were a pain. the rest was easy it was just the those areas. I also really liked how the markers gave the figure a stained look.
Overall I really love this figure and I'll be taking some photos tomorrow
Also, wow! The MG Jesta is huge compared to the MG F91 I built years ago. Awesome!
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
Late UC stuff (F91 and Victory) is tiny compared to early UC (in-universe excuse: Higher technology makes stuff smaller. Real world reasoning: "HEY GUYS I FIGURED OUT A WAY TO MAKE MORE MONEY WITH LESS PLASTIC"), and CCA/Unicorn era stuff is the biggest.
Soon.