Need Watercooling Advice

1ddqd

Had this in the build thread, but I think it's own thread makes for a better place to discuss:

I am making my second watercooling loop for my gaming PC. It leaked from the resevoir last time, so this time I'm going without a res. Here's my case (Silverstone TJ-08). It's micro-atx, so it's cramped, and the hardware is/was pretty high end. In any case, I'm also expanding to 2 radiators instead of just 1, so I can run it on 1 fan instead of 2.

My problem is logically laying it out. Here's the component design I have now (sorry for the MSPaint-ness). I have a T and Y joint for the top and bottom fill ports' branches. I just feel like there's a better way to do it:

That_Guy

My advise for watercooling;

Don't do it. You are not going to be overclocking anything enough that watercolling will be at all helpful. The benefits are dwarfed by the risks.

1ddqd

That_Guy wrote: »

My advise for watercooling;

Don't do it. You are not going to be overclocking anything enough that watercolling will be at all helpful. The benefits are dwarfed by the risks.

Well, as the first line explained, I have experienced that risk. I know what's involved, and yes, I will be overclocking enough to need it. The key is silence - faster CPU and faster graphics with less noise...somehow, that's a win-win situation for me :P

Thanks for the suggestion, though. For many people, it would be too intimidating. I'm willing to risk it.

That_Guy

1ddqd wrote: »

It leaked from the reservoir last time

This is all to common for watercooled rigs. I used to build custom computers for a living at a little mom-and-pop computer store. It got to the point where we would not install watercooling rigs into people's systems because it was such a liability. About 1 in 3 systems would come back ruined because people brought us cheap-ass watercooling rigs to install.

1ddqd

That_Guy wrote: »

This is all to common for watercooled rigs.

Which is why I'm doing it without a reservoir. Besides, I don't think 33% is common. It's more common than one would like it to be, but it's not exactly something you can set your watch to.

Well, I suppose placement is fine. There are only so many ways you can lay it out anyways and I guess I've answered my own question. Thanks anyways.

1ddqd

Ok, here's what I was thinking:



Should I get some 45 degree adapters for the pump-to-radiator and GPU-to-T adapter? I can't visualize if there would be kinks, otherwise :-/

Chalkbot

In my opinion (have built 2 water-cooled rigs) you'll get better performance if you prioritize the CPU block over the GPU, meaning you should pass through BOTH radiators before the CPU block. The GPU is capable of running stable at a MUCH higher temperature and will not suffer from taking the water when it's slightly warmer. Also don't put hot water into the pump, you'll shorten it's lifespan.

Rad1>Rad2>Pump>CPU>GPU

1ddqd

Chalkbot wrote: »

In my opinion (have built 2 water-cooled rigs) you'll get better performance if you prioritize the CPU block over the GPU, meaning you should pass through BOTH radiators before the CPU block. The GPU is capable of running stable at a MUCH higher temperature and will not suffer from taking the water when it's slightly warmer. Also don't put hot water into the pump, you'll shorten it's lifespan.

Rad1>Rad2>Pump>CPU>GPU

Hmm...I think that could work. I figured if I ran everything through 2 rads at once, the temp would take longer to stabilize. I guess if it's Rad 1 then Rad 2, it gets warmer faster, and at a steady rate. Interesting.

1ddqd

One last question - should I go with the EK Supreme Waterblock, or the DangerDen MCU-TDX waterblock? The DangerDen is cheaper, but the EK looks cooler. I guess the looks won't matter much, since I won't have a window, but does it also perform better?

I compiled an excel sheet that looks at the main differences, and I guess the real question is this: is 7 degrees C worth $27 more? These numbers come from the TechPowerUp review of the EK block.

Obs

I have a water cooled rig. It was a pain in the ass to set up and I will eventually have to worry about replacing pumps. It's not even that good, the 9800 GTX that I have in my loop makes the water too hot.

I'm gonna suggest trying this, because it's simple as fuck:
http://www.pugetsystems.com/submerged.php

No moving parts to worry about.


:edit: Also I suggest getting solid state drives for such a rig, so you could submerged them too. Plus any respectable gaming PC these days should use an SSD

1ddqd

LOL. Seriously? Buy a new system? That's your advice?

Pumps fail - MTBF is usually around 50,000 hours...

Of course, you could buy a better pump (like the Laing DDC) and get a slightly longer life, but honestly, I'll probably upgrade the pump before it even sounds like it's failing.

No, this post was advice needed for LOOP configuration, not "Should I even do it?"

Obs

Well, if you're using fans smaller than 120mm or regular harddrives, you will still have significant noise.

1ddqd

Not that I don't appreciate advice, but if you read my original post (which included a full color picture) you'll notice the only mm measurement was of 120, the size of the radiators.

Yes, 80mm will be louder than 120mm fans, and thanks for reminding me. But relevant posts to the topic include offering advice on the loop, or which CPU block would be a better choice. Thanks, though, I'm sure there are people who didn't know about that.

Obs

1ddqd wrote: »

Not that I don't appreciate advice, but if you read my original post (which included a full color picture) you'll notice the only mm measurement was of 120, the size of the radiators.

Yes, 80mm will be louder than 120mm fans, and thanks for reminding me. But relevant posts to the topic include offering advice on the loop, or which CPU block would be a better choice. Thanks, though, I'm sure there are people who didn't know about that.

To be honest I didn't really read your original post all the way.

Chalkbot

The "best" waterblock changes, like, every couple of months. It's ridiculous. When I bought mine, Swiftech was the "best", but to be perfectly honest, the performance margins between them are usually very thin. I think your pump and Radiator selections will have a far bigger impact on your setup's performance, so spend your money there. Buy whatever block is the most reasonably priced for it's application.

1ddqd

Thanks! I was already leaning to the DD MC-TDX because of it's price advantage. I think I'll stay there.

GnomeTank

The best waterblock is the one you actually polish yourself, because none of these companies polish the bottoms of their blocks well enough to make perfect contact to the die shield. Lacking the ability to polish metal, you will want to be real smart with your Arctic Silver to make sure there is enough to cause a good seal to be there. Yes, I am actually suggesting you be a little more copious with your Arctic Silver, which goes counter to everything anyone has ever told you about thermal paste. I mean, don't playdoh it, but understand that water cooling requires a level of heat transfer between the block and the CPU that is not required for most air cooling situations (where much of the heat dissipates through the ambient,).

The best method is still to polish the shit out of the bottom of your block, but some people just aren't in to polishing metal that much.

1ddqd

The EK Blocks come with a near-mirror flat finish, the DD less so, but still have a pretty clear reflection. I'll keep it in mind and be ready to take a block to it if I have to.