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Edumacate me about bikes
HorizonXP
Registered User regular
Registered User regular
Hey guys,
So I've been losing weight over the last year, and I feel like I really want to experience the outdoors this summer. I might be starting a Master's degree this June, so I might be commuting to and from my campus. I would be taking the bus the majority of the way, but bringing a bike with me on the bike rack would be nice, so I can explore the trails and area around the campus/hospital I would be at.
Other than that, I'd like to get a bike that would be good for what I described above, but also bike trails in and around the GTA and Algonquin Park-like areas. I'm probably going to be looking at used bikes, in the $300 to $700 CDN range. Any and all advice is appreciated!
So I've been losing weight over the last year, and I feel like I really want to experience the outdoors this summer. I might be starting a Master's degree this June, so I might be commuting to and from my campus. I would be taking the bus the majority of the way, but bringing a bike with me on the bike rack would be nice, so I can explore the trails and area around the campus/hospital I would be at.
Other than that, I'd like to get a bike that would be good for what I described above, but also bike trails in and around the GTA and Algonquin Park-like areas. I'm probably going to be looking at used bikes, in the $300 to $700 CDN range. Any and all advice is appreciated!
HorizonXP on
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What kind of trails are you looking to ride, graveled walking trails, or more typical mountain bike singletrack? I've also been looking into a new trail bike and from what I've seen your best options in that price range are probably Giant, Jamis or Ironhorse. I know Norco is the most popular canadian brand, but in the past few years their prices have sky-rocketed and I haven't been able to find a decent used one here for a reasonable price.
If you're going to use your bike as a commuter first and foremost, I'd pick the most comfortable bike you can find. A nice cushy seat, laid back geometry, a little suspension up front to soak up the bumps. It might cost a little extra, but depending on how rough your ride is, a nice brand name suspension fork can make all the difference. Stay away from forks with names like ZOOM and JUICE on them as they're generally shit. Suntour makes some cheaper suspension forks, but they're still leagues above what you'd find on a department store bike.
Anyway I hope that helps a little, sorry if it's a little broad. If you need anything clarified please feel free to ask.
Well, I probably wouldn't be leaving it outside. I'm pretty sure there's going to be space to keep it indoors where I will be. And graveled trails is probably where I'll start off with.
I'm looking for something that's easy to ride. My last bike, while comfortable, was a pain in the ass to get rolling while I was using it. The brakes sucked HARD. And I could barely change gears without the chain falling off. So I had to stick to one gear, making acceleration impossible, and I had to slow down WAY in advance.
From what I read, suspensions tend to put energy into the road while you pedal, making it difficult to start off. Is this true?
Whatever you pick, you're going to be putting a lot of road miles on it, so maintaining the drivetrain is really important. Invest in a couple small bottles of chain lube. Every week or so, clean the gunk off your chain with a rag. Then squirt some lube on it and wipe away the excess. WD40 or other sprays are not an acceptable substitute and will probably just attract more gunk.
As for shifting and chains falling off, especially with new bikes the shifter cables stretch over time. Derailleurs can also get knocked out of alignment, so it's important to keep them adjusted. It's a really simple process, but if you aren't comfortable then most bike shops will perform a quick tune-up for around 15-20$. They might even throw in a couple for free if you buy a bike there.
Even most lower end bikes are starting to come with disc brakes these days. Gone are the days of grabbing a fist full of lever and praying your horseshoe brakes would slow you down in time. If you pick one with disc brakes there are a few things to consider. First of all, stay away from no name discs, as they can actually be worse than regular V-brakes. If it doesn't say Hayes, Shimano, Avid, even Formula or Tektro on it then you should probably stay away. Second, disc brake pads take a little while to get worked in. So if they're adjusted right and they still don't seem to be grabbing as well as they could, then you might need to give them some time to get worked in.
With any kind of suspension that doesn't feature a lockout of some kind, pedal bob is a fact of life. Fortunately, with the kind of bike you're looking for it should make little to no difference. Unless you're riding a freeride bike with 6 inches of travel or standing up hammering on the pedals all the time. :P In your situation the added comfort will certainly outweigh the energy lost from the pedal bob.
Big cushy seat, easy gearing, adjustable stem and handlebars and a little suspension up front. These bikes are all about comfort. You won't be setting any speed records with them though.
Next is the classic mountain bike hardtail.
More upright geometry, not as comfortable for putting around. Quite a bit faster on the paths and able to tackle some singletrack and mountain bike trails if you're looking to do some exploring. You can add slicker, less knobby tires and it will still be a great commuter ride.
For a quality mountain bike you're going to want bang for your buck and you'll probably end up spending as much as you can afford to. I haven't tried used bikes myself yet, and you might be able to save some cash there for sure. Just make sure that the frame fits your body comfortably. If it's even a bit uncomfortable when you test ride it (and don' buy anything without getting on it and riding at least a few blocks) then keep looking. A little discomfort might not seem like much over 15 minutes, but after 3 hours of trail riding, it's a big deal.
The one thing I've seen with my past bikes it the cheaper ones cost less up front (duh), but I spent a LOT more in keeping them running. My Hoss has taken a fair bit of abuse in the last year and so far it's had 1 tuneup. So that might be something to consider as well. I'd say that if you buy from a store, try to find a friendly one nearby (makes drop off and pick up a lot easier) and if you buy from CL or some other classified ad, still have a walk around of bike shops in the area (TO is littered with them) to see who you like for when the inevitable repair needs to be made. MEC is a decent place to get tubes, and basic repair gear as well as an H2O pack btw.
Your local bike shop should be happy to answer any questions you have and set you up with a bike that's right for you. You could also visit a few different ones in your area, and see which carry the brands/models that interest you most. Of course it will end up costing quite a bit more, but it all comes down to how serious you are about biking I guess.
Your local shops will probably have a used selection too. This will still be more than buying it off CL but you can pretty much assume everything will work. If you're willing to be a little patient, you can find some incredible deals on CL/college campuses, since people will buy a $$$ ride to putz around campus on and then sell it to get rid of it. Of course, they typically don't care for the bike very well, either, so it will probably need some maintenance. Basically it comes down to budgeting out time, money, and personal mechanical prowess.
When looking at bikes, some things to keep in mind:
The components like your derailleurs, shifters, brakes, gearing etc (Shimano LX series components are both common and terribly reliable under most conditions, A++ for value/performance ratio) are are the pieces that make up a lot of the cost of the bike, will break/wear out first (if you break a frame it's very old, a defect or you're abusing it), and will have the biggest impact on how much fun you have on the bike, after fit.
You do not NEED disc brakes.*
You do not NEED clipless pedals/shoes. **
ChroMoly Steel is just as fine a frame material as Aluminum, usually cheaper, always heavier, usually with a more comfortable ride (the rear triangle will flex more when you hit bumps, absorbing some of the shock. This is normal and fine and one of the reasons some people prefer steel. It will also usually bend before breaking under extreme stresses, which isn't really a concern for you but it's worth mentioning.
Spend some time sitting on different seats. They are NOT all created equal, and worth getting right.
Fit Fit Fit! If your bike fits the rest of it is details, if it doesn't you will not like riding it.
It is EASY to go way over budget. If you are a gadget whore you will soon be sucked into how many just plain neat gizmos and doohickeys can be added to/replaced on a mountain bike. Just don't get carried away. Also, get a helmet. Seriously. Don't be that guy. You don't need to spend a 100 bucks on some fancy rocketship for your skull, just get something to cover your noggin. It is squishier than EVERYTHING you can whack it on when falling off a bike.
*Discs will most certainly be available for most newer bikes, and they are just plain better (especially in the wet), and if you can budget them in, awesome. But linear pull rim brakes work, are super cheap, easier to maintain, and if you're just commuting/casual trail riding will stop just fine. **Clipless pedals/shoe are great! But can be expensive and take some getting used to. Like, ride around in a grassy lot and practice stopping without falling over till it becomes automatic. (You will fall over a few times) Also most clipless shoes are not something you want to walk around in, when I commute I generally bring shoes with me to wear around work.