I prefer to paint in 2-3 sub-assemblies, usually I'll paint the torso and an arm as one, the head as another and finally the other arm. Allows for easier access with the brush to tricky areas.
Dareth: I like the idea, but the way you did it didn't really work well, in my opinion. I would paint up the cannon as you normally would, and then try a thick red wash on applicable parts(something like a baal red, with some blood red mixed in... mix it in slowly and test on a piece of paper before applying, to get the right consistancy).
Everyone: I started painting my demolisher/eradicator tonight, or rather, finished part of it. The body needs a lot more work, but the turret is done bar highlighting, and already looks really good. I was really worried, because it looked horrible with just the basecoat. This fills me with enthusiasm to finish the rest of the tank, I can't wait until I can post pictures for y'all.
If we played 40k with models the size of my computer monitor, it might be an issue :P
I honestly see nothing but :^: there, Mayday
Ah well, that might be a point...
Thanks for the kind words, guys. I'm gonna paint some more and experiment.
For extreme highlights try this:
Use a rounded brush
wipe off excess paint (not to drybrush level)
Do not use the tip of the brush along the edges. Run along the edge that you're highlighting using the side of the brush. as in my amazing CAD drawing below:
Hopefully that might help I'd show examples but im at work.
I prefer to paint in 2-3 sub-assemblies, usually I'll paint the torso and an arm as one, the head as another and finally the other arm. Allows for easier access with the brush to tricky areas.
Cheers,
Dante
Question for you sir, do you attack the free arm to something to allow a grip on it while you paint? I ask since I might do something similar as I repaint my DK Grenadiers and their arms are tiny.
Dareth: I like the idea, but the way you did it didn't really work well, in my opinion. I would paint up the cannon as you normally would, and then try a thick red wash on applicable parts(something like a baal red, with some blood red mixed in... mix it in slowly and test on a piece of paper before applying, to get the right consistancy).
I'm inclined to agree. I want to avoid re-painting it from scratch (though I guess I will strip it and start over if I have to), but I did fiddle with the colors a bit. Lots of washes added, tinge of yellow to the highlights. Just on the top part - not sure if I want to start over or extend it around yet.
Anyways, this seems a bit better but I'm still not sure. Thoughts?
Also - Re: Your highlights. They aren't very clean, but it's a matter of two things really - the brush you use, and the color palette. I'll give you an example of how I do highlights, and if I can, i'll post a picture of a marine later tonight demonstrating what it looks like.
Anyways, if I paint Ultramarines, I base Ultra/Regal 50/50, then I highlight everything in pure ultra marine. It's a subtle variation, and hell, it's hardly noticeable. I keep the actual lines I draw even and crisp. Then I switch to a ultra/spacewolf gray 50/50 and repeat over my ultra highlights, and I try and make those lines even thinner. Lastly, i'll pick off the highest edged stuff with pure space wolf. The trick is layer your highlights in such a fashion as they blend easier. Switching from one color a single hightlight color can be drastic. If you want to keep it clean, use a fine detail brush. You'll screw up - keep your base color handy to tidy up when go over too much.
Re: Washes. I was in a speed painting competition this weekend, and I'm painting a plastic Frodo. I've never painted a hobbit before, and I could spend all day on the model, but you've got one hour, so you make some sacrifices. Anyways, I ended up placing 1st out of 10 because I washed rather than highlighted. I could have spent 30 minutes doing a single stage highlight, or I could wash the colors down in 5 minutes, and leave the edges alone to sort of reverse highlight. It works - not on every model, but it works.
I don't think it would be something I'd have a lot of fun with. I'm gonna try freehanding a bit, but if the results from printed decals look better, I'll stick to decals.
I don't think it would be something I'd have a lot of fun with. I'm gonna try freehanding a bit, but if the results from printed decals look better, I'll stick to decals.
I don't think it would be something I'd have a lot of fun with. I'm gonna try freehanding a bit, but if the results from printed decals look better, I'll stick to decals.
I actually made a whole sheet of BR decals back when I toyed with doing them when DOW1 was out. I actually went and extracted the logo from the game files since I couldn't find a clear enough picture I liked.
Dareth: I like the idea, but the way you did it didn't really work well, in my opinion. I would paint up the cannon as you normally would, and then try a thick red wash on applicable parts(something like a baal red, with some blood red mixed in... mix it in slowly and test on a piece of paper before applying, to get the right consistancy).
I'm inclined to agree. I want to avoid re-painting it from scratch (though I guess I will strip it and start over if I have to), but I did fiddle with the colors a bit. Lots of washes added, tinge of yellow to the highlights. Just on the top part - not sure if I want to start over or extend it around yet.
Anyways, this seems a bit better but I'm still not sure. Thoughts?
I like how you have it at the coils. You should try that on the other red parts.
@ Timspork - I pin everything anyway so the free arm normally has a pin in it at the shoulder.
Cheers,
Dante
Problem is that the Death Korps models have such tiny and thin arms that there's not much of a safe way to sink a pin into them. I'm thinking of gluing them temporarily to a spare piece of resin then breaking it off afterward.
Sounds like you need to get some super fine drill bits then mate .
I find them handy for a lot of things.
Gluing might work but can be risky when you come to breaking the join. For a start you then have to clean off all of the glue to get a flush join again. Also, the fact the gluing surface is so small means that you won't have a very strong join once you glue it to the mini. Pinning would also help with this.
Cheers,
Dante
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Librarian's ghostLibrarian, Ghostbuster, and TimSporkRegistered Userregular
Sounds like you need to get some super fine drill bits then mate .
I find them handy for a lot of things.
Gluing might work but can be risky when you come to breaking the join. For a start you then have to clean off all of the glue to get a flush join again. Also, the fact the gluing surface is so small means that you won't have a very strong join once you glue it to the mini. Pinning would also help with this.
Cheers,
Dante
The problem is that I wouldn't be able to drill a hole deep enough for the pin to be glued into without the bit exiting the other side of the arm. I could easily put the pin in the torso, but that kinda defeats the purpose of having something to hold onto.
Anyways, this seems a bit better but I'm still not sure. Thoughts?
Maybe instead of the red on top with the black underneath, switch it. Right now it just looks like blood, like the red stuff was splattered on. What I think I mean is that red with black highlights might make it look like the heat is coming from inside the gun. I'm not sure of the technology inside a plasma gun, but I think the heat comes from inside.
After a bit more time off I've managed to finish four more lasgunners for my airborne regiment.
Here are three more being built up.
I think my brush control is getting much better and I feel like I might even have most of my troops done by the time the new codex hits. You can't really tell in the photo but I went a bit too heavy on the purity seal after I'd finished up so the backside of the models looks like they were in some kind of industrial ash waste snowball fight. Anyone have tips to remove this without the paint? I'm tempted to just leave it as is, as a reminder to go really really light on the matte varnish.
SPI: Awesome looking rhino! The highlights came out nice and I like the color scheme.
Dampcat: I have to give that technique a try sometime. Currently, my guardsmen lack any kind of highlighting on their armor.
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
edited March 2009
Nice tank, although having the marine be the same color really doesn't work too well. There's a reason why I make sure the hull color is a slightly different shade than the armor my guys wear.
Anyways, this seems a bit better but I'm still not sure. Thoughts?
Maybe instead of the red on top with the black underneath, switch it. Right now it just looks like blood, like the red stuff was splattered on. What I think I mean is that red with black highlights might make it look like the heat is coming from inside the gun. I'm not sure of the technology inside a plasma gun, but I think the heat comes from inside.
tl;dr I think your highlights are backwards.
P.S. SPI, your do pink perfectly.
...
:!!:
Thank you. I was too dumb to see that, even when Raislin tried explaining it to me. Super "OOOOOOOOOOOOH! right." moment.
didn't reply when I read your post, but I because of it I went and bought some Simple Green after work and stripped the plasma gun.
Does anyone have tips for Airbrushing? I want to experiment with doing a urban camo pattern on my Tau.
Try a putty of some sort (poster putty works well). Basically, prime the model, then put on your basecoat color (usually the darkest color in the pattern). Apply the putty either in strips or blobs, and then airbrush your lighter color over it.
Posts
Cheers,
Dante
Everyone: I started painting my demolisher/eradicator tonight, or rather, finished part of it. The body needs a lot more work, but the turret is done bar highlighting, and already looks really good. I was really worried, because it looked horrible with just the basecoat. This fills me with enthusiasm to finish the rest of the tank, I can't wait until I can post pictures for y'all.
3ds friend code: 2981-6032-4118
For extreme highlights try this:
Use a rounded brush
wipe off excess paint (not to drybrush level)
Do not use the tip of the brush along the edges. Run along the edge that you're highlighting using the side of the brush. as in my amazing CAD drawing below:
Hopefully that might help
"EVEN IN DEATH I STILL COOK MOTHERFUCKERS".
"EVEN IN DEATH I STILL COOK MOTHERFUCKERS".
Anyways, this seems a bit better but I'm still not sure. Thoughts?
Finished the guy from yesterday. First fully painted SM:
The backpack is just washes, no highlights. I love my bottle of badab black so much!
Also - Re: Your highlights. They aren't very clean, but it's a matter of two things really - the brush you use, and the color palette. I'll give you an example of how I do highlights, and if I can, i'll post a picture of a marine later tonight demonstrating what it looks like.
Anyways, if I paint Ultramarines, I base Ultra/Regal 50/50, then I highlight everything in pure ultra marine. It's a subtle variation, and hell, it's hardly noticeable. I keep the actual lines I draw even and crisp. Then I switch to a ultra/spacewolf gray 50/50 and repeat over my ultra highlights, and I try and make those lines even thinner. Lastly, i'll pick off the highest edged stuff with pure space wolf. The trick is layer your highlights in such a fashion as they blend easier. Switching from one color a single hightlight color can be drastic. If you want to keep it clean, use a fine detail brush. You'll screw up - keep your base color handy to tidy up when go over too much.
Re: Washes. I was in a speed painting competition this weekend, and I'm painting a plastic Frodo. I've never painted a hobbit before, and I could spend all day on the model, but you've got one hour, so you make some sacrifices. Anyways, I ended up placing 1st out of 10 because I washed rather than highlighted. I could have spent 30 minutes doing a single stage highlight, or I could wash the colors down in 5 minutes, and leave the edges alone to sort of reverse highlight. It works - not on every model, but it works.
Seeing blood ravens painted makes me so happy. are you going to try free-handing the chapter symbol?
I actually made a whole sheet of BR decals back when I toyed with doing them when DOW1 was out. I actually went and extracted the logo from the game files since I couldn't find a clear enough picture I liked.
I like how you have it at the coils. You should try that on the other red parts.
Cheers,
Dante
Problem is that the Death Korps models have such tiny and thin arms that there's not much of a safe way to sink a pin into them. I'm thinking of gluing them temporarily to a spare piece of resin then breaking it off afterward.
I find them handy for a lot of things.
Gluing might work but can be risky when you come to breaking the join. For a start you then have to clean off all of the glue to get a flush join again. Also, the fact the gluing surface is so small means that you won't have a very strong join once you glue it to the mini. Pinning would also help with this.
Cheers,
Dante
The problem is that I wouldn't be able to drill a hole deep enough for the pin to be glued into without the bit exiting the other side of the arm. I could easily put the pin in the torso, but that kinda defeats the purpose of having something to hold onto.
So fucking awesome...love it! The gold came out very nicely!
XBL: Chewyy
Steam: chuvakie
Here are three more being built up.
I think my brush control is getting much better and I feel like I might even have most of my troops done by the time the new codex hits. You can't really tell in the photo but I went a bit too heavy on the purity seal after I'd finished up so the backside of the models looks like they were in some kind of industrial ash waste snowball fight. Anyone have tips to remove this without the paint? I'm tempted to just leave it as is, as a reminder to go really really light on the matte varnish.
SPI: Awesome looking rhino! The highlights came out nice and I like the color scheme.
Dampcat: I have to give that technique a try sometime. Currently, my guardsmen lack any kind of highlighting on their armor.
Black basecoat
coat entire area with 50/50 scorched brown/brazen brass
then shining gold/scorched brown at maybe 1 part brown 3 parts gold
then pure shining gold
then burnished gold/mithril silver 50/50 hi-lights
then a gryphonne sepia wash
I'm convinced now.
You guys can take that however you like.
:!!:
Thank you. I was too dumb to see that, even when Raislin tried explaining it to me. Super "OOOOOOOOOOOOH! right." moment.
didn't reply when I read your post, but I because of it I went and bought some Simple Green after work and stripped the plasma gun.
Only if you paint it that way while dressed like Geordi
What, you don't do that?
I have a raging boner for the new Star Trek movie
Try a putty of some sort (poster putty works well). Basically, prime the model, then put on your basecoat color (usually the darkest color in the pattern). Apply the putty either in strips or blobs, and then airbrush your lighter color over it.