Well if no one knows, I'm gonna chalk this up to psuedo-science.
Improvolone on
Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
0
ArtreusI'm a wizardAnd that looks fucked upRegistered Userregular
edited September 2009
Yeah, you could probably just ask them to send it to the store. It is an expensive thing, I am sure they want you to buy it from them.
Also I keep having to wait so long for that dang projector. I finally have the money but everywhere is sold out of the first shipment in some places and a lot of others wont even be getting it for another week at least.
Okay, so whats with 240hz? I understand 120 being divisible by all of the popular frame rates, but 240?
The number is twice as big!
I never know what to think on this one. I see a bunch of shit that says 240Hz is completely impossible to notice. Then I see a bunch of shit saying that Sony's pure implementation works so much better than other brands and their pseudo-240Hz implementation. Does that mean that it can be noticed and Sony does it best? Does that mean it can't be noticed over 120Hz when it works but when it sucks it can? Who knows.
I think 240hz would be noticeable if there existed any video source that provided 240 frames a second. Humans can't see better than 24 fps, blah blah blah, I know the party line, but I still believe higher framerates have a big effect on our perception of how "real" a picture is, even if science says we can't tell a difference.
Okay, so whats with 240hz? I understand 120 being divisible by all of the popular frame rates, but 240?
The number is twice as big!
I never know what to think on this one. I see a bunch of shit that says 240Hz is completely impossible to notice. Then I see a bunch of shit saying that Sony's pure implementation works so much better than other brands and their pseudo-240Hz implementation. Does that mean that it can be noticed and Sony does it best? Does that mean it can't be noticed over 120Hz when it works but when it sucks it can? Who knows.
I think 240hz would be noticeable if there existed any video source that provided 240 frames a second. Humans can't see better than 24 fps, blah blah blah, I know the party line, but I still believe higher framerates have a big effect on our perception of how "real" a picture is, even if science says we can't tell a difference.
That's not the party line.
lowlylowlycook on
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
0
sponoMining for Nose DiamondsBooger CoveRegistered Userregular
edited September 2009
is there anything simple that could make component inputs on an old CRT fail?
I figure it's either the connection between the plug and motherboard has failed or something further along the board is fried
If it's farther up the board, I'm screwed, but if it's a simple re-soldering job or something else I might be ok
I hate the way the 240Hz effect looks on most TVs. I leave it turned off on mine. With it on, everything looks like a soap opera.
No. You are talking about motion interpolation. 120/240 Hz allow the effect you are describing...they do not mandate it in most TVs. Each manufacturer calls the effect you are talking about a different name.
I'll say it again...the primary purposes of 120/240 Hz are to reduce the blur in fast moving images, and to allow 24fps source to be replayed at a 1:1 conversion. The soap opera effect is different, and inserts extra images that don't exist to make something appear smoother.
To piggyback off Peregrine's post below: don't look like an idiot by furthering the human-eye-24fps myth.
I made some 60fps videos of Skate 2 back in the spring. It's a shame youtube butchers things so much, because it looks quite nice.
xzzy on
0
EshTending bar. FFXIV. Motorcycles.Portland, ORRegistered Userregular
edited September 2009
So I just pushed the button on ordering a Panasonic G10 50". For the break in I downloaded a 7k file of "slides". Do I just put those on an SD card and set the TV to repeatedly sample through them in order for 150 hours? Will watching Blu-Ray movies that fill the entire screen break in my TV as well? I was reading I shouldn't even think about playing any games until the break in is over. Do my settings need to be any different than they would be for after the break in period or can I just grab some calibrations settings from the AVS forums and start the break in?
So I just pushed the button on ordering a Panasonic G10 50". For the break in I downloaded a 7k file of "slides". Do I just put those on an SD card and set the TV to repeatedly sample through them in order for 150 hours? Will watching Blu-Ray movies that fill the entire screen break in my TV as well? I was reading I shouldn't even think about playing any games until the break in is over. Do my settings need to be any different than they would be for after the break in period or can I just grab some calibrations settings from the AVS forums and start the break in?
To break in my g10 I downloaded the break-in dvd off the avs forums and played it for 100-150 hours. Within that time I was pretty big into street fighter and couldn't help but play. As I'm sure you know, street fighter has the HUD that's supposedly the worst thing for plasmas, but goddammit I played anyway. I never saw any evidence of damage as a result of this.
After break-in and calibration I started one of the "worst" games for a plasma tv: Resident Evil 5 with local co-op. If you're unfamiliar with that... the first player is on the top left half, while the second player is on the bottom right. I played this game with my friend for 5-hour sessions and there was no lasting evidence of IR.
The reason the break-in dvd is recommended is that it fills the whole screen and goes through a whole gamut of colors. YMMV if you use an arbitrary BRD.
Also, from one fellow 50" g10 owner to another.... congrats on your purchase. You will love it immensely.
Okay, I got a 42" LCD, and my roommate will be aquiring a PS3 in October, hopefully, so I'm wanting to provide for a fairly optimal blu-ray experience and think it's time to upgrade to Surround Sound. Should I start a new thread or is it okay to ask about that stuff here?
Undead Scottsman on
0
EshTending bar. FFXIV. Motorcycles.Portland, ORRegistered Userregular
So I just pushed the button on ordering a Panasonic G10 50". For the break in I downloaded a 7k file of "slides". Do I just put those on an SD card and set the TV to repeatedly sample through them in order for 150 hours? Will watching Blu-Ray movies that fill the entire screen break in my TV as well? I was reading I shouldn't even think about playing any games until the break in is over. Do my settings need to be any different than they would be for after the break in period or can I just grab some calibrations settings from the AVS forums and start the break in?
To break in my g10 I downloaded the break-in dvd off the avs forums and played it for 100-150 hours. Within that time I was pretty big into street fighter and couldn't help but play. As I'm sure you know, street fighter has the HUD that's supposedly the worst thing for plasmas, but goddammit I played anyway. I never saw any evidence of damage as a result of this.
After break-in and calibration I started one of the "worst" games for a plasma tv: Resident Evil 5 with local co-op. If you're unfamiliar with that... the first player is on the top left half, while the second player is on the bottom right. I played this game with my friend for 5-hour sessions and there was no lasting evidence of IR.
The reason the break-in dvd is recommended is that it fills the whole screen and goes through a whole gamut of colors. YMMV if you use an arbitrary BRD.
Also, from one fellow 50" g10 owner to another.... congrats on your purchase. You will love it immensely.
What calibration settings are you using for it? I saw some by "Serial Mike" on the AVS Forums that are supposed to be decent. I've never actually burnt a "movie" DVD before. Could you point out the proper file and what program I should use to do it with?
I'm wicked excited for it.
Esh on
0
VariableMouth CongressStroke Me Lady FameRegistered Userregular
So I just pushed the button on ordering a Panasonic G10 50". For the break in I downloaded a 7k file of "slides". Do I just put those on an SD card and set the TV to repeatedly sample through them in order for 150 hours? Will watching Blu-Ray movies that fill the entire screen break in my TV as well? I was reading I shouldn't even think about playing any games until the break in is over. Do my settings need to be any different than they would be for after the break in period or can I just grab some calibrations settings from the AVS forums and start the break in?
To break in my g10 I downloaded the break-in dvd off the avs forums and played it for 100-150 hours. Within that time I was pretty big into street fighter and couldn't help but play. As I'm sure you know, street fighter has the HUD that's supposedly the worst thing for plasmas, but goddammit I played anyway. I never saw any evidence of damage as a result of this.
After break-in and calibration I started one of the "worst" games for a plasma tv: Resident Evil 5 with local co-op. If you're unfamiliar with that... the first player is on the top left half, while the second player is on the bottom right. I played this game with my friend for 5-hour sessions and there was no lasting evidence of IR.
The reason the break-in dvd is recommended is that it fills the whole screen and goes through a whole gamut of colors. YMMV if you use an arbitrary BRD.
Also, from one fellow 50" g10 owner to another.... congrats on your purchase. You will love it immensely.
What calibration settings are you using for it? I saw some by "Serial Mike" on the AVS Forums that are supposed to be decent. I've never actually burnt a "movie" DVD before. Could you point out the proper file and what program I should use to do it with?
I'm wicked excited for it.
The .iso can be found here. (Click on downloads). From there there are links back to the avs forum website for why burning in plasmas are important (before calibration!). I'm using a mac, so for me burning a dvd is as simple as putting a dvd-r in and hitting "burn." If you don't have the equipment to burn the dvd, you can buy it form that site for $6.50.
I paid to have the tv calibrated through best buy and I'm pleased with the job they did. I couldn't give you a specific list of settings since I didn't do it myself. Also it will vary depending on how much light comes into your room. Every calibration job is different.
Professional calibration is a totally different beast, but someone here did some reviews of taking basic calibration numbers off AVS and several calibration DVDs and they were all in a very similar area.
Improvolone on
Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
0
EshTending bar. FFXIV. Motorcycles.Portland, ORRegistered Userregular
So I just pushed the button on ordering a Panasonic G10 50". For the break in I downloaded a 7k file of "slides". Do I just put those on an SD card and set the TV to repeatedly sample through them in order for 150 hours? Will watching Blu-Ray movies that fill the entire screen break in my TV as well? I was reading I shouldn't even think about playing any games until the break in is over. Do my settings need to be any different than they would be for after the break in period or can I just grab some calibrations settings from the AVS forums and start the break in?
To break in my g10 I downloaded the break-in dvd off the avs forums and played it for 100-150 hours. Within that time I was pretty big into street fighter and couldn't help but play. As I'm sure you know, street fighter has the HUD that's supposedly the worst thing for plasmas, but goddammit I played anyway. I never saw any evidence of damage as a result of this.
After break-in and calibration I started one of the "worst" games for a plasma tv: Resident Evil 5 with local co-op. If you're unfamiliar with that... the first player is on the top left half, while the second player is on the bottom right. I played this game with my friend for 5-hour sessions and there was no lasting evidence of IR.
The reason the break-in dvd is recommended is that it fills the whole screen and goes through a whole gamut of colors. YMMV if you use an arbitrary BRD.
Also, from one fellow 50" g10 owner to another.... congrats on your purchase. You will love it immensely.
What calibration settings are you using for it? I saw some by "Serial Mike" on the AVS Forums that are supposed to be decent. I've never actually burnt a "movie" DVD before. Could you point out the proper file and what program I should use to do it with?
I'm wicked excited for it.
The .iso can be found here. (Click on downloads). From there there are links back to the avs forum website for why burning in plasmas are important (before calibration!). I'm using a mac, so for me burning a dvd is as simple as putting a dvd-r in and hitting "burn." If you don't have the equipment to burn the dvd, you can buy it form that site for $6.50.
I paid to have the tv calibrated through best buy and I'm pleased with the job they did. I couldn't give you a specific list of settings since I didn't do it myself. Also it will vary depending on how much light comes into your room. Every calibration job is different.
Do most DVD players do Super Video CDs? That's the format it's in apparently. I'm probably going to pick up an Oppo. Is there any difference between using the DVD and using a memory card with the same images on it?
If you can't see a difference, you were probably dropped as a child by your parents who were brother and sister.
Yeah, big difference between 24fps and 60fps. It's especially noticeable during slow pans in films (at 24fps), particularly across, say, a city. You can pretty much see the individual frames, and it's very choppy. Similar pans in video (at 60fps) are less choppy.
As far as the difference between 120Hz and 240Hz TVs, I can see there being a slight effect based on the refresh rate of an LCD screen. You want there to be a pretty high refresh rate to eliminate sampling artifacts between the screen and your vision.
But that has nothing to do with the actual frame rate of the stuff being shown. Yes, technically you could do twice as much frame interpolation with 240fps as you could with 120fps, but you're not going to really be able to tell. Just as you won't be able to see much difference between scaling an image in Photoshop by 500% vs scaling it by 1000% - you can only "create" so muhc virtual information from what you have to start with. Taking something that's 24fps and trying to create five times as many frames out of it is already superfluous. Creating ten times as many frames is just masturbatory.
Yes, there's also 60fps material to work with, but A) the point still stands, and 95% of Bluray content, for which frame interpolation is (for whatever reason) particularly noticeable, is 24fps.
ElJeffe on
Maddie: "I named my feet. The left one is flip and the right one is flop. Oh, and also I named my flip-flops."
0
Big DookieSmells great!Houston, TXRegistered Userregular
I hate the way the 240Hz effect looks on most TVs. I leave it turned off on mine. With it on, everything looks like a soap opera.
No. You are talking about motion interpolation. 120/240 Hz allow the effect you are describing...they do not mandate it in most TVs. Each manufacturer calls the effect you are talking about a different name.
I'll say it again...the primary purposes of 120/240 Hz are to reduce the blur in fast moving images, and to allow 24fps source to be replayed at a 1:1 conversion. The soap opera effect is different, and inserts extra images that don't exist to make something appear smoother.
To piggyback off Peregrine's post below: don't look like an idiot by furthering the human-eye-24fps myth.
What? I didn't say anything about the 24 fps thing, just that the 240 Hz effect I've seen on many TVs looks like turd. I know full well the difference between motion interpolation and frame rate, and I know exactly what causes the effect I was describing, which is why I called it an EFFECT and not a generalization of all 240Hz TVs. I was just stating that I don't like it. You're being kind of a dick for no reason. I'm an electrical engineer, I don't need you to talk down to me.
So I just pushed the button on ordering a Panasonic G10 50". For the break in I downloaded a 7k file of "slides". Do I just put those on an SD card and set the TV to repeatedly sample through them in order for 150 hours? Will watching Blu-Ray movies that fill the entire screen break in my TV as well? I was reading I shouldn't even think about playing any games until the break in is over. Do my settings need to be any different than they would be for after the break in period or can I just grab some calibrations settings from the AVS forums and start the break in?
To break in my g10 I downloaded the break-in dvd off the avs forums and played it for 100-150 hours. Within that time I was pretty big into street fighter and couldn't help but play. As I'm sure you know, street fighter has the HUD that's supposedly the worst thing for plasmas, but goddammit I played anyway. I never saw any evidence of damage as a result of this.
After break-in and calibration I started one of the "worst" games for a plasma tv: Resident Evil 5 with local co-op. If you're unfamiliar with that... the first player is on the top left half, while the second player is on the bottom right. I played this game with my friend for 5-hour sessions and there was no lasting evidence of IR.
The reason the break-in dvd is recommended is that it fills the whole screen and goes through a whole gamut of colors. YMMV if you use an arbitrary BRD.
Also, from one fellow 50" g10 owner to another.... congrats on your purchase. You will love it immensely.
What calibration settings are you using for it? I saw some by "Serial Mike" on the AVS Forums that are supposed to be decent. I've never actually burnt a "movie" DVD before. Could you point out the proper file and what program I should use to do it with?
I'm wicked excited for it.
The .iso can be found here. (Click on downloads). From there there are links back to the avs forum website for why burning in plasmas are important (before calibration!). I'm using a mac, so for me burning a dvd is as simple as putting a dvd-r in and hitting "burn." If you don't have the equipment to burn the dvd, you can buy it form that site for $6.50.
I paid to have the tv calibrated through best buy and I'm pleased with the job they did. I couldn't give you a specific list of settings since I didn't do it myself. Also it will vary depending on how much light comes into your room. Every calibration job is different.
Do most DVD players do Super Video CDs? That's the format it's in apparently. I'm probably going to pick up an Oppo. Is there any difference between using the DVD and using a memory card with the same images on it?
Strange, I thought that was the dvd one. I'm pretty sure most dvd players do not play svcds. If you want the dvd badly enough I'm sure you could search for it somewhere on the avsforums. All things considered, I don't think it would be any different if you used a memory card.
I hate the way the 240Hz effect looks on most TVs. I leave it turned off on mine. With it on, everything looks like a soap opera.
No. You are talking about motion interpolation. 120/240 Hz allow the effect you are describing...they do not mandate it in most TVs. Each manufacturer calls the effect you are talking about a different name.
I'll say it again...the primary purposes of 120/240 Hz are to reduce the blur in fast moving images, and to allow 24fps source to be replayed at a 1:1 conversion. The soap opera effect is different, and inserts extra images that don't exist to make something appear smoother.
To piggyback off Peregrine's post below: don't look like an idiot by furthering the human-eye-24fps myth.
What? I didn't say anything about the 24 fps thing, just that the 240 Hz effect I've seen on many TVs looks like turd. I know full well the difference between motion interpolation and frame rate, and I know exactly what causes the effect I was describing, which is why I called it an EFFECT and not a generalization of all 240Hz TVs. I was just stating that I don't like it. You're being kind of a dick for no reason. I'm an electrical engineer, I don't need you to talk down to me.
This is an issue that has been repeatedly discussed in both this thread and its previous incarnation. Unfortunately, your statement doesn't make it clear at all what you are talking about. For example, lets say we're talking about a Samsung LN52B750, a 2009 240Hz TV. You say you turn off the "effect", which is completely vague. What are you turning off? The anti-blur effect? The anti-judder effect? A quick look at the Samsung user manual for that TV shows that you can choose which to turn on/off to gain the advantages of 240Hz while disabling the disadvantages. However, all of this (motion interpolation, etc) is lumped under ONE feature name...AutoMotion Plus.
Now head over to Sony and their XBR9 with 240Hz Motionflow. They take a completely different tact...they have three modes for the feature, with no customization. As far as you can tell, these modes control everything about 240Hz. You turn off the feature completely on these TVs, and it may remove the "240 Hz effect" you referenced, but it will probably also look like ass on fast motion because it takes away any LCD compensation. And if that's also turning off 120Hz in general (which I couldn't confirm) than it will also re-introduce 3:2 on 24fps shit, making it seem like the 240Hz feature is doing more than it should be given credit for.
My point here (and the point of the post you found so offensive) is TV manufacturers have made this feature a very vague and subjectively implemented (specification) that can refer to multiple unrelated effects on the TV. When you post that you "leave 240Hz turned off" it suggests to people who may not share your vast EE knowledge that 240Hz alone creates the soap opera effect (try having this conversation with Best Buy people for maximum lolz).
So I just pushed the button on ordering a Panasonic G10 50". For the break in I downloaded a 7k file of "slides". Do I just put those on an SD card and set the TV to repeatedly sample through them in order for 150 hours? Will watching Blu-Ray movies that fill the entire screen break in my TV as well? I was reading I shouldn't even think about playing any games until the break in is over. Do my settings need to be any different than they would be for after the break in period or can I just grab some calibrations settings from the AVS forums and start the break in?
To break in my g10 I downloaded the break-in dvd off the avs forums and played it for 100-150 hours. Within that time I was pretty big into street fighter and couldn't help but play. As I'm sure you know, street fighter has the HUD that's supposedly the worst thing for plasmas, but goddammit I played anyway. I never saw any evidence of damage as a result of this.
After break-in and calibration I started one of the "worst" games for a plasma tv: Resident Evil 5 with local co-op. If you're unfamiliar with that... the first player is on the top left half, while the second player is on the bottom right. I played this game with my friend for 5-hour sessions and there was no lasting evidence of IR.
The reason the break-in dvd is recommended is that it fills the whole screen and goes through a whole gamut of colors. YMMV if you use an arbitrary BRD.
Also, from one fellow 50" g10 owner to another.... congrats on your purchase. You will love it immensely.
What calibration settings are you using for it? I saw some by "Serial Mike" on the AVS Forums that are supposed to be decent. I've never actually burnt a "movie" DVD before. Could you point out the proper file and what program I should use to do it with?
I'm wicked excited for it.
The .iso can be found here. (Click on downloads). From there there are links back to the avs forum website for why burning in plasmas are important (before calibration!). I'm using a mac, so for me burning a dvd is as simple as putting a dvd-r in and hitting "burn." If you don't have the equipment to burn the dvd, you can buy it form that site for $6.50.
I paid to have the tv calibrated through best buy and I'm pleased with the job they did. I couldn't give you a specific list of settings since I didn't do it myself. Also it will vary depending on how much light comes into your room. Every calibration job is different.
Do most DVD players do Super Video CDs? That's the format it's in apparently. I'm probably going to pick up an Oppo. Is there any difference between using the DVD and using a memory card with the same images on it?
Strange, I thought that was the dvd one. I'm pretty sure most dvd players do not play svcds. If you want the dvd badly enough I'm sure you could search for it somewhere on the avsforums. All things considered, I don't think it would be any different if you used a memory card.
Ok, he didn't edit one of his paragraphs to express that it now concerned both the DVD and SVCD versions. I got confused. I'd really rather use a memory card rather than put 150 hours of wear on my DVD player though. I'll probably just go that route if they're the same thing.
They're the same thing, all that matters is the video going across your screen. Me, I got lazy with my TV and actually just used random looping video that I already had on my PS3. Ran that for periods of time. Not sure if it produced as accurate a response as doing it correctly but it seemed to work well enough. I'll get it professionally calibrated someday...
Yeah, they also appear to be a bit dodgy about no-interest financing offers in-store. I bought a TV there recently, and online items list financing offers they're eligible for, and the TVs currently list an offer of no-interest for 36 months on all TVs $799 and up. Well in-store I was told that it was only on TVs $999 and up, so I showed them the website.
They said they'd match those terms by doing a term adjustment on the card, but that the website was wrong. Of course it's been a few weeks and the website hasn't been corrected, so I suspect it's just that they're running different offers online/in-store for that as well.
Daenris on
0
EshTending bar. FFXIV. Motorcycles.Portland, ORRegistered Userregular
Gear GirlMore class than a state universityRegistered Userregular
edited September 2009
Do any of the tvs from this event seem like a good deal for my needs outlined below. These are Canadian prices but the dollar is basically even right now.
We are looking for two TVs probably in the 46-50inch range that will be used for gaming primarily with Xbox 360s but with a few last gen systems as well, dvd watching(maybe blu-ray once I get it), and tv watching. Any of these TVs strike you as a good purchase or do they have some major thing wrong with them?
Do any of the tvs from this event seem like a good deal for my needs outlined below. These are Canadian prices but the dollar is basically even right now.
We are looking for two TVs probably in the 46-50inch range that will be used for gaming primarily with Xbox 360s but with a few last gen systems as well, dvd watching(maybe blu-ray once I get it), and tv watching. Any of these TVs strike you as a good purchase or do they have some major thing wrong with them?
I was actually really considering the 40" toshiba. I would really like to know peoples opinions on them.
Do any of the tvs from this event seem like a good deal for my needs outlined below. These are Canadian prices but the dollar is basically even right now.
We are looking for two TVs probably in the 46-50inch range that will be used for gaming primarily with Xbox 360s but with a few last gen systems as well, dvd watching(maybe blu-ray once I get it), and tv watching. Any of these TVs strike you as a good purchase or do they have some major thing wrong with them?
I was actually really considering the 40" toshiba. I would really like to know peoples opinions on them.
I actually just bought that 40" toshiba at Best Buy in the US for $799 a few weeks ago. I like it, and it does well on both SD and HD sources I've used (as has been noted here, SD sources on this set look much nicer than on some of my friends comparable sets from other brands). I haven't done any gaming beyond the Wii, so can't really say anything about HD gaming.
I wouldn't have paid near the roughly $940 USD that seems to exchange to because for $999 there was a nice 120hz 40" Samsung, but I'm not familiar with other TV prices in Canada, so I can't really say. I mainly went with the Toshiba because it was about $200 cheaper than comparable 120hz Samsungs or Sonys. If that's still true at Canadian prices, I'd say it's a good deal.
Do any of the tvs from this event seem like a good deal for my needs outlined below. These are Canadian prices but the dollar is basically even right now.
We are looking for two TVs probably in the 46-50inch range that will be used for gaming primarily with Xbox 360s but with a few last gen systems as well, dvd watching(maybe blu-ray once I get it), and tv watching. Any of these TVs strike you as a good purchase or do they have some major thing wrong with them?
I was actually really considering the 40" toshiba. I would really like to know peoples opinions on them.
I actually just bought that 40" toshiba at Best Buy in the US for $799 a few weeks ago. I like it, and it does well on both SD and HD sources I've used (as has been noted here, SD sources on this set look much nicer than on some of my friends comparable sets from other brands). I haven't done any gaming beyond the Wii, so can't really say anything about HD gaming.
I wouldn't have paid near the roughly $940 USD that seems to exchange to because for $999 there was a nice 120hz 40" Samsung, but I'm not familiar with other TV prices in Canada, so I can't really say. I mainly went with the Toshiba because it was about $200 cheaper than comparable 120hz Samsungs or Sonys. If that's still true at Canadian prices, I'd say it's a good deal.
Ya we tend to get screwed in the ass regarding exchange...Maybe ill slip over to Detroit and buy one there anyone know how bad they will hit me with duty?
Jarhog on
0
EshTending bar. FFXIV. Motorcycles.Portland, ORRegistered Userregular
edited September 2009
My 50" G10 showed up today and it's amaaaaazing. I just popped it on THX and I've been doing a little gaming (Valkyria Chronicles) and I watched Kill Bill Vol. 1 this morning.
Can I just burn it in by setting the colors to some optimal settings I found on the AVS forums and just not watching/playing things with static images? I have the color slides on an SD Card so I can run those if needed. If I do it that way, do I need to have my color settings any different? Halp!
Break in (not burn in waaaay wrong terminology) is nice. Really the first 100 will break in a TV, but those images will probably be a better way of getting the TV to really flash the color spectrum.
Optimal settings off AVS are pretty decent from everything I've read. Professional calibration is the big chhange.
Improvolone on
Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
I think this thread needs to be re-made. I spend half my work day on the internet and even I don't have time to read 30 pages of discussing console games on hdtv's.
I like the guide as a general primer/reference but 2 things stood out at me:
1 - This isn't a timeless guide, some specifics would be helpful, such as: rough price of screens in sizes/types and maybe a recommendation or two. So within LCD there must be a range of $300-500 = you can expect these features, this one appears to be the best etc. I understand you werent looking to write a 10 page article or do tons and tons of research in markets you're not interested in but it seems like some recommendations would appear from the ruminations of the crowd.
2. You seem to come back to plasma burn in a lot. Does this really continue to be the issue you're making it out to be? From the (small) reading I've done on the issue plasmas have made huge strides in reducing or just about eliminating burn in.
JDub on
0
EshTending bar. FFXIV. Motorcycles.Portland, ORRegistered Userregular
Break in (not burn in waaaay wrong terminology) is nice. Really the first 100 will break in a TV, but those images will probably be a better way of getting the TV to really flash the color spectrum.
Optimal settings off AVS are pretty decent from everything I've read. Professional calibration is the big chhange.
Ah, yeah I know. I had just got off work and was brain dead. I might spring for professional calibrations once I get the light levels controlled in the room (i.e. better curtains).
Break in (not burn in waaaay wrong terminology) is nice. Really the first 100 will break in a TV, but those images will probably be a better way of getting the TV to really flash the color spectrum.
Optimal settings off AVS are pretty decent from everything I've read. Professional calibration is the big chhange.
Ah, yeah I know. I had just got off work and was brain dead. I might spring for professional calibrations once I get the light levels controlled in the room (i.e. better curtains).
I have yet to read a professional calibration review that said "no, it wasn't worth it". But yes, make sure your room is how it is going to stay before you get it done.
Also, go with an independent guy, not Best Buy.
You've got a new TV, you want to use it. Run the break in stuff over night and while you're at work.
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Break in (not burn in waaaay wrong terminology) is nice. Really the first 100 will break in a TV, but those images will probably be a better way of getting the TV to really flash the color spectrum.
Optimal settings off AVS are pretty decent from everything I've read. Professional calibration is the big chhange.
Ah, yeah I know. I had just got off work and was brain dead. I might spring for professional calibrations once I get the light levels controlled in the room (i.e. better curtains).
I have yet to read a professional calibration review that said "no, it wasn't worth it". But yes, make sure your room is how it is going to stay before you get it done.
Also, go with an independent guy, not Best Buy.
You've got a new TV, you want to use it. Run the break in stuff over night and while you're at work.
What's wrong with Best Buy's calibration? I'm pretty satisfied with it.
Its probably over priced and I'd sooner trust a third part for something like that. They are probably more likely to take their time and do it right.
Something about Best Buys home repair and install stuff really rubs me the wrong way. I've had to totally rewire my aunts home theatre to undo the garbage Best Buy did.
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Also I keep having to wait so long for that dang projector. I finally have the money but everywhere is sold out of the first shipment in some places and a lot of others wont even be getting it for another week at least.
I think 240hz would be noticeable if there existed any video source that provided 240 frames a second. Humans can't see better than 24 fps, blah blah blah, I know the party line, but I still believe higher framerates have a big effect on our perception of how "real" a picture is, even if science says we can't tell a difference.
That's not the party line.
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
I figure it's either the connection between the plug and motherboard has failed or something further along the board is fried
If it's farther up the board, I'm screwed, but if it's a simple re-soldering job or something else I might be ok
Oculus: TheBigDookie | XBL: Dook | NNID: BigDookie
No. You are talking about motion interpolation. 120/240 Hz allow the effect you are describing...they do not mandate it in most TVs. Each manufacturer calls the effect you are talking about a different name.
I'll say it again...the primary purposes of 120/240 Hz are to reduce the blur in fast moving images, and to allow 24fps source to be replayed at a 1:1 conversion. The soap opera effect is different, and inserts extra images that don't exist to make something appear smoother.
To piggyback off Peregrine's post below: don't look like an idiot by furthering the human-eye-24fps myth.
PSN: TheScrublet
http://kimpix.net/2006/12/03/60fps-vs-24fps/
If you can't see a difference, you were probably dropped as a child by your parents who were brother and sister.
Can trade TF2 items or whatever else you're interested in. PM me.
To break in my g10 I downloaded the break-in dvd off the avs forums and played it for 100-150 hours. Within that time I was pretty big into street fighter and couldn't help but play. As I'm sure you know, street fighter has the HUD that's supposedly the worst thing for plasmas, but goddammit I played anyway. I never saw any evidence of damage as a result of this.
After break-in and calibration I started one of the "worst" games for a plasma tv: Resident Evil 5 with local co-op. If you're unfamiliar with that... the first player is on the top left half, while the second player is on the bottom right. I played this game with my friend for 5-hour sessions and there was no lasting evidence of IR.
The reason the break-in dvd is recommended is that it fills the whole screen and goes through a whole gamut of colors. YMMV if you use an arbitrary BRD.
Also, from one fellow 50" g10 owner to another.... congrats on your purchase. You will love it immensely.
What calibration settings are you using for it? I saw some by "Serial Mike" on the AVS Forums that are supposed to be decent. I've never actually burnt a "movie" DVD before. Could you point out the proper file and what program I should use to do it with?
I'm wicked excited for it.
That is the exact model.
The .iso can be found here. (Click on downloads). From there there are links back to the avs forum website for why burning in plasmas are important (before calibration!). I'm using a mac, so for me burning a dvd is as simple as putting a dvd-r in and hitting "burn." If you don't have the equipment to burn the dvd, you can buy it form that site for $6.50.
I paid to have the tv calibrated through best buy and I'm pleased with the job they did. I couldn't give you a specific list of settings since I didn't do it myself. Also it will vary depending on how much light comes into your room. Every calibration job is different.
Do most DVD players do Super Video CDs? That's the format it's in apparently. I'm probably going to pick up an Oppo. Is there any difference between using the DVD and using a memory card with the same images on it?
Yeah, big difference between 24fps and 60fps. It's especially noticeable during slow pans in films (at 24fps), particularly across, say, a city. You can pretty much see the individual frames, and it's very choppy. Similar pans in video (at 60fps) are less choppy.
As far as the difference between 120Hz and 240Hz TVs, I can see there being a slight effect based on the refresh rate of an LCD screen. You want there to be a pretty high refresh rate to eliminate sampling artifacts between the screen and your vision.
But that has nothing to do with the actual frame rate of the stuff being shown. Yes, technically you could do twice as much frame interpolation with 240fps as you could with 120fps, but you're not going to really be able to tell. Just as you won't be able to see much difference between scaling an image in Photoshop by 500% vs scaling it by 1000% - you can only "create" so muhc virtual information from what you have to start with. Taking something that's 24fps and trying to create five times as many frames out of it is already superfluous. Creating ten times as many frames is just masturbatory.
Yes, there's also 60fps material to work with, but A) the point still stands, and
Oculus: TheBigDookie | XBL: Dook | NNID: BigDookie
Strange, I thought that was the dvd one. I'm pretty sure most dvd players do not play svcds. If you want the dvd badly enough I'm sure you could search for it somewhere on the avsforums. All things considered, I don't think it would be any different if you used a memory card.
This is an issue that has been repeatedly discussed in both this thread and its previous incarnation. Unfortunately, your statement doesn't make it clear at all what you are talking about. For example, lets say we're talking about a Samsung LN52B750, a 2009 240Hz TV. You say you turn off the "effect", which is completely vague. What are you turning off? The anti-blur effect? The anti-judder effect? A quick look at the Samsung user manual for that TV shows that you can choose which to turn on/off to gain the advantages of 240Hz while disabling the disadvantages. However, all of this (motion interpolation, etc) is lumped under ONE feature name...AutoMotion Plus.
Now head over to Sony and their XBR9 with 240Hz Motionflow. They take a completely different tact...they have three modes for the feature, with no customization. As far as you can tell, these modes control everything about 240Hz. You turn off the feature completely on these TVs, and it may remove the "240 Hz effect" you referenced, but it will probably also look like ass on fast motion because it takes away any LCD compensation. And if that's also turning off 120Hz in general (which I couldn't confirm) than it will also re-introduce 3:2 on 24fps shit, making it seem like the 240Hz feature is doing more than it should be given credit for.
My point here (and the point of the post you found so offensive) is TV manufacturers have made this feature a very vague and subjectively implemented (specification) that can refer to multiple unrelated effects on the TV. When you post that you "leave 240Hz turned off" it suggests to people who may not share your vast EE knowledge that 240Hz alone creates the soap opera effect (try having this conversation with Best Buy people for maximum lolz).
PSN: TheScrublet
Ok, he didn't edit one of his paragraphs to express that it now concerned both the DVD and SVCD versions. I got confused. I'd really rather use a memory card rather than put 150 hours of wear on my DVD player though. I'll probably just go that route if they're the same thing.
PSN: TheScrublet
PSN: TheScrublet
Yeah, they also appear to be a bit dodgy about no-interest financing offers in-store. I bought a TV there recently, and online items list financing offers they're eligible for, and the TVs currently list an offer of no-interest for 36 months on all TVs $799 and up. Well in-store I was told that it was only on TVs $999 and up, so I showed them the website.
They said they'd match those terms by doing a term adjustment on the card, but that the website was wrong. Of course it's been a few weeks and the website hasn't been corrected, so I suspect it's just that they're running different offers online/in-store for that as well.
I bought it online for $1,399, so no big deal.
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We are looking for two TVs probably in the 46-50inch range that will be used for gaming primarily with Xbox 360s but with a few last gen systems as well, dvd watching(maybe blu-ray once I get it), and tv watching. Any of these TVs strike you as a good purchase or do they have some major thing wrong with them?
I was actually really considering the 40" toshiba. I would really like to know peoples opinions on them.
I actually just bought that 40" toshiba at Best Buy in the US for $799 a few weeks ago. I like it, and it does well on both SD and HD sources I've used (as has been noted here, SD sources on this set look much nicer than on some of my friends comparable sets from other brands). I haven't done any gaming beyond the Wii, so can't really say anything about HD gaming.
I wouldn't have paid near the roughly $940 USD that seems to exchange to because for $999 there was a nice 120hz 40" Samsung, but I'm not familiar with other TV prices in Canada, so I can't really say. I mainly went with the Toshiba because it was about $200 cheaper than comparable 120hz Samsungs or Sonys. If that's still true at Canadian prices, I'd say it's a good deal.
Ya we tend to get screwed in the ass regarding exchange...Maybe ill slip over to Detroit and buy one there anyone know how bad they will hit me with duty?
Can I just burn it in by setting the colors to some optimal settings I found on the AVS forums and just not watching/playing things with static images? I have the color slides on an SD Card so I can run those if needed. If I do it that way, do I need to have my color settings any different? Halp!
Optimal settings off AVS are pretty decent from everything I've read. Professional calibration is the big chhange.
I like the guide as a general primer/reference but 2 things stood out at me:
1 - This isn't a timeless guide, some specifics would be helpful, such as: rough price of screens in sizes/types and maybe a recommendation or two. So within LCD there must be a range of $300-500 = you can expect these features, this one appears to be the best etc. I understand you werent looking to write a 10 page article or do tons and tons of research in markets you're not interested in but it seems like some recommendations would appear from the ruminations of the crowd.
2. You seem to come back to plasma burn in a lot. Does this really continue to be the issue you're making it out to be? From the (small) reading I've done on the issue plasmas have made huge strides in reducing or just about eliminating burn in.
Ah, yeah I know. I had just got off work and was brain dead. I might spring for professional calibrations once I get the light levels controlled in the room (i.e. better curtains).
I have yet to read a professional calibration review that said "no, it wasn't worth it". But yes, make sure your room is how it is going to stay before you get it done.
Also, go with an independent guy, not Best Buy.
You've got a new TV, you want to use it. Run the break in stuff over night and while you're at work.
What's wrong with Best Buy's calibration? I'm pretty satisfied with it.
Something about Best Buys home repair and install stuff really rubs me the wrong way. I've had to totally rewire my aunts home theatre to undo the garbage Best Buy did.