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The TV Thread: Holiday 2010 has ALREADY begun!

1235762

Posts

  • BurtletoyBurtletoy Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    darleysam wrote: »
    Right, I finally got a HDMI lead for my TV and tried it out today and.. well some things I noticed. Firstly when loading up Lost and Damned, it had a funny glitch at the top of the screen that I never noticed before swapping over. Basically as the game was going through its loading screens (swapping through different images, the GTA thing they do) it had this dark bar briefly appear at the top, before fading away. It does seem to be the same size as the bar that it flashes up to display the screen resolution, so I wonder if it's something related to that.
    Secondly, things just seemed really dark. I figure it could partly be because I'm using a different input and so one I've not fiddled with any settings before, but it didn't seem to naturally look this dark before. Just some HDMI configuration issues? Anything I need to know? I tried fiddling with some of the advanced settings, but that just seemed to make the image all smudged and blurry whenever it moved.

    Might try Mirror's Edge tomorrow and see what happens.

    Assuming you are playing on a 360? The 360 has its own black level options that are very much required to make games look good. I don't really know where it is in the new dashboard, but it's there somewhere.

    Burtletoy on
  • darleysamdarleysam On my way to UKRegistered User regular
    edited April 2009
    I realised as I was going to bed last night, that it might well be one of the options I fiddled with. There's.. something, I can't remember what it's called, that's in the 'System Settings' section. Some kind of 'colour settings' or whatever. I think I selected something other than default to see what would happen, and left it like so. I might reset that and see how it runs.

    darleysam on
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  • ElJeffeElJeffe Moderator, ClubPA mod
    edited April 2009
    I have my 360 set to use "extended blacks" in the system settings, and it looks pretty nice. No weird black bar problems, or anything.

    ElJeffe on
    I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
  • Gear GirlGear Girl More class than a state university Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    ElJeffe wrote: »
    re: TV size, if you're watching film content, you pretty much want the screen to fill your field of vision in the ideal case. This is also how you should watch films in theaters - they're designed such that the screen eats up almost all of your vision, so you're as immersed in the movie as possible.

    Ideally, then, if you're 10' away, you want a 60" or 65". Of course, this is likely neither practical nor affordable, and if you have a wife she may nut you for even suggesting it (assumign standard wife stereotypes). But the idea that if you're 10' away the "ideal" size is 42" or so is just plain wrong. You want that fucker to be huge, if what you're going for is an ideal media watching experience.

    In the SD era, this wasn't necessarily the case; a TV that big meant pixels as large as God's testicles, and it looked ugly as hell. On a 1080p set, though, those pixels will look just fine. For HD content, of course. SD content will continue to look like ass. But fuck SD content.

    Me, I have a 50" set that I view from about 9'. It could definitely be bigger. I mean, it's nice and big and all, and I'm very content, but if I was loaded I would up it to at least a 60".

    Thanks ElJeffe this post was so very informative.

    Gear Girl on
  • darleysamdarleysam On my way to UKRegistered User regular
    edited April 2009
    ElJeffe wrote: »
    I have my 360 set to use "extended blacks" in the system settings, and it looks pretty nice. No weird black bar problems, or anything.

    I tried all three settings and have had to go with Standard for the time-being, since the other two just made everything look really dark. Obviously it's meant to make the blacks look better, but it just seemed to act like the brightness was way down. And images seemed more prone to looking smudgy, too. Shame, as while Standard is brighter and clearer, it comparatively looks too bright. Damnit.

    As for the bar across the top of the screen, it only seems to happen under HDMI and specifically on the GTA loading screens. I might try a different HDMI port to see if that gives any information, but otherwise I'll just assume it's something to do with the way GTA draws these in, or maybe just something my TV doesn't like about it.

    darleysam on
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  • GrundlterrorGrundlterror Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    I'm having the most difficult time deciding what TV to get. Honestly, I know as long as I get the size (~50") and resolution I want (1080p) and it's a plasma I'll be happy with it. I also want to get a 'good deal' on it, so I can be happy with the purchase. I have the money right now but I'm just hesitating on pulling the trigger.

    I've been looking at the Samsung PN50A550. It got the best review in Consumer Reports for 50" Plasmas. Right now I can't find a good deal on it. It just went back up to $1799 on Amazon.com (It was around 13 - 1400 until today). I've also looked at the Panasonic VIERA S1 Series TC-P50S1, and it seems to be cheaper. However, most people hold Panasonic in a high regard.

    Honestly, I know the difference between the two sets will be very minimal and whether I'm playing my 360 on a Panasonic or a Samsung 50" 1080p plasma I'll be happy. I just want to make the best possible decision and I don't know how to make it. So, which set should I get? Should I go purely on price or does anyone recommend one set over the other? Or maybe a set C?

    Grundlterror on
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  • chasmchasm Ill-tempered Texan Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    The Viera line is great. Until Pioneer bailed out of the plasma market, the Viera was thought to be the budget alternative to the Kuro line. Don't forget to check the AVS Forums. They were a huge help when I was trying to decide whether to get a 42" Opus or the 42" from the new Scarlet line.

    chasm on
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  • BurtletoyBurtletoy Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    I think the Kuro is suppsoed to be the best plasma on the market now*


    But it is being taken off the market soon.

    Burtletoy on
  • BurtletoyBurtletoy Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    http://www.6ave.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=MITWD60737

    So that looks pretty sweet. If FedEx pays me soon I think I might jump.

    Burtletoy on
  • xzzyxzzy Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    That seems like a heck of a lot of TV for not a lot of money.

    What's the catch?

    xzzy on
  • Folken FanelFolken Fanel anime af When's KoFRegistered User regular
    edited April 2009
    http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Sixth_Avenue_Electronics_6th_Ave

    Questionable ratings. Personally I've never done anything not Amazon or Newegg, ymmv.

    Folken Fanel on
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  • JasconiusJasconius sword criminal mad onlineRegistered User regular
    edited April 2009
    I'm going to me moving in a couple of weeks and I am looking at purchasing my first TV. I've not had a TV in 5 years and I know very little...

    I went to Best Buy today and saw a Sony Bravia 1080 32 inch TV for about 800... I've heard the Bravia's are pretty high quality...

    Is there even any point to getting a 1080p TV at that size?

    Looking for some recommendations for 1k or less.

    Jasconius on
  • ImprovoloneImprovolone Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Size and pixel density depends on how far from the screen you will be. There should be a chart in the OP, its a pretty good estimate.
    Samsungs and Panasonics are top notch, Sony is good but generally over priced when compared to the first two.
    Buy your cables from www.monoprice.com.

    Improvolone on
    Voice actor for hire. My time is free if your project is!
  • chasmchasm Ill-tempered Texan Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Unless you're about a foot-and-a-half from the TV, 1080p is useless on a 32" TV. It's throwing money away.

    chasm on
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  • DrakeonDrakeon Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    So, my SD tv is dieing on me and it's got me looking at HD tvs. So my question is, where do I look for deals on HD tv's? I'm probably looking for something around 29-32 inches, in which case, does anyone have a ballpark on what they usually run from?

    Drakeon on
    PSN: Drakieon XBL: Drakieon Steam: TheDrakeon
  • DrakeonDrakeon Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    chasm wrote: »

    Thanks.

    Also, I was looking in consumer reports, and this caught my eye. It got good ratings and is pretty cheap compared to other 32 inches that I've looked at. Anyone have any experience with Toshiba Regzas?

    Drakeon on
    PSN: Drakieon XBL: Drakieon Steam: TheDrakeon
  • ScrubletScrublet Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Drakeon wrote: »
    chasm wrote: »

    Thanks.

    Also, I was looking in consumer reports, and this caught my eye. It got good ratings and is pretty cheap compared to other 32 inches that I've looked at. Anyone have any experience with Toshiba Regzas?

    It's pretty cheap cause it's Toshiba. Go to a store and look at it. Do you notice a difference between it and the higher quality samsung/sonys? If not, by all means go for it and enjoy.

    But LG, Sharp, Toshiba, etc., are cheaper for a reason. They aren't as nice. Assholes like me notice. Lots of other people don't :)

    Scrublet on
    subedii wrote: »
    I hear PC gaming is huge off the coast of Somalia right now.

    PSN: TheScrublet
  • xzzyxzzy Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    So I've started noticing this annoying trait of my Samsung (LN46A650).

    Certain bright flashes or full-white scenes cause the screen to blank momentarily, stay unlit for a second or two, then come back up with the resolution information box in the upper left.. as if it was getting a new image size, and was switching modes. This appears to be some kind of self-preservation feature, like it shuts off momentarily when things get too bright.

    I've tried googling this but haven't had any luck picking the right keywords to find discussion on it. Anyone run into this? Is there some setting I can tweak to either dim the whites or prevent the screen from blanking out?

    xzzy on
  • ClipseClipse Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    xzzy wrote: »
    So I've started noticing this annoying trait of my Samsung (LN46A650).

    Certain bright flashes or full-white scenes cause the screen to blank momentarily, stay unlit for a second or two, then come back up with the resolution information box in the upper left.. as if it was getting a new image size, and was switching modes. This appears to be some kind of self-preservation feature, like it shuts off momentarily when things get too bright.

    I've tried googling this but haven't had any luck picking the right keywords to find discussion on it. Anyone run into this? Is there some setting I can tweak to either dim the whites or prevent the screen from blanking out?

    I've got a 6 series -- though a different size -- and I've never seen what you're describing. Does it happen with multiple sources? I'd say first make sure you're seeing this from multiple devices (and multiple video cables) consistently. Also, if you have Dynamic Contrast enabled, turn that off and see if it still happens.

    Clipse on
  • xzzyxzzy Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Now that I think about it, I've only seen it when I'm using my xbox.. no dvd's, just netflix and in games.

    The xbox is using component inputs. I have the tv set to use the 'game' mode.

    I'll check the dynamic contrast later on.

    xzzy on
  • ClipseClipse Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    xzzy wrote: »
    Now that I think about it, I've only seen it when I'm using my xbox.. no dvd's, just netflix and in games.

    The xbox is using component inputs. I have the tv set to use the 'game' mode.

    I'll check the dynamic contrast later on.

    Do you have the 360 outputting 1080p? I had some issues with using 1080p over component from my 360, it would lose the signal sporadically. I just picked up a cheap up a cheap HDMI cable, but if you've got an older 360 with no HDMI out, try running it at 1080i and see if that helps.

    Clipse on
  • ElJeffeElJeffe Moderator, ClubPA mod
    edited April 2009
    Clipse wrote: »
    xzzy wrote: »
    Now that I think about it, I've only seen it when I'm using my xbox.. no dvd's, just netflix and in games.

    The xbox is using component inputs. I have the tv set to use the 'game' mode.

    I'll check the dynamic contrast later on.

    Do you have the 360 outputting 1080p? I had some issues with using 1080p over component from my 360, it would lose the signal sporadically. I just picked up a cheap up a cheap HDMI cable, but if you've got an older 360 with no HDMI out, try running it at 1080i and see if that helps.

    Not really TV-related, but I discovered that my new receiver doesn't allow pass-through of 1080p signals over component. So I had to drop my 360 to 1080i, or plug it directly into the TV. I went for the former, because there wasn't much difference anyway, and I partly dropped the money on this receiver to avoid the great cable hydra I had snaking out of my TV, but it was disappointing.

    ElJeffe on
    I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
  • ElJeffeElJeffe Moderator, ClubPA mod
    edited April 2009
    darleysam wrote: »
    ElJeffe wrote: »
    I have my 360 set to use "extended blacks" in the system settings, and it looks pretty nice. No weird black bar problems, or anything.

    I tried all three settings and have had to go with Standard for the time-being, since the other two just made everything look really dark. Obviously it's meant to make the blacks look better, but it just seemed to act like the brightness was way down. And images seemed more prone to looking smudgy, too. Shame, as while Standard is brighter and clearer, it comparatively looks too bright. Damnit.

    If your TV is able to, you should ideally be calibrating the picture settings per-input. So if the extended blacks setting makes things too dark for your tastes, you could compensate by upping the brightness on the TV end.

    Now, if "extended blacks" just means "darker," then there's not much point. And if your TV can only have universal picture settings rather than per-input, then you probably don't want to jack everything else up for the sake of extended blacks. But just FYI.

    ElJeffe on
    I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
  • ElJeffeElJeffe Moderator, ClubPA mod
    edited April 2009
    Size and pixel density depends on how far from the screen you will be. There should be a chart in the OP, its a pretty good estimate.
    Samsungs and Panasonics are top notch, Sony is good but generally over priced when compared to the first two.
    Buy your cables from www.monoprice.com.

    Sony's in my experience, are excellent televisions, but they're only a fantastic value if you can find a good sale. One of the top-end Bravias, IMO, will kick the shit out of most other mass-market-level televisions, and will still provide an edge over Panasonics and Samsungs, but you will pay a premium for that quality, and it may well not be worth it to most people.

    That said, it's difficult to compare their more recent offerings directly, now that Panasonic and Samsung went with plasma and Sony is doing LCD.

    ElJeffe on
    I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
  • darleysamdarleysam On my way to UKRegistered User regular
    edited April 2009
    ElJeffe wrote: »
    darleysam wrote: »
    ElJeffe wrote: »
    I have my 360 set to use "extended blacks" in the system settings, and it looks pretty nice. No weird black bar problems, or anything.

    I tried all three settings and have had to go with Standard for the time-being, since the other two just made everything look really dark. Obviously it's meant to make the blacks look better, but it just seemed to act like the brightness was way down. And images seemed more prone to looking smudgy, too. Shame, as while Standard is brighter and clearer, it comparatively looks too bright. Damnit.

    If your TV is able to, you should ideally be calibrating the picture settings per-input. So if the extended blacks setting makes things too dark for your tastes, you could compensate by upping the brightness on the TV end.

    Now, if "extended blacks" just means "darker," then there's not much point. And if your TV can only have universal picture settings rather than per-input, then you probably don't want to jack everything else up for the sake of extended blacks. But just FYI.

    I need to have a play around with it and see what I can turn up. At the moment it is just being used for the 360 and probably dvds eventually, but that's as far as it goes. I could almost do with getting some test patterns and trying them out through the 360 to see what it comes up with.
    I'm open to the possibility that the game is actually that dark in places, and I'm just not used to seeing it like that.

    darleysam on
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  • DjeetDjeet Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Anyone here do a CIH projector install? I'm trying to get my head around all the expenses involved, so far I've come up with:

    projector (capable of vertical stretch), projector mount, screen, anamorphic lens (or prisms, or whatever, I know not the jargon), and transport (or fabricate my own lens slide).

    Also, any projector owners interested in sharing bulb life? I'm seeing 2000-3000 hour replacement cycles indicated by the bulb, but a friend of mine who's had his for 2.5 years says the projector under-reports. Meaning he's sure he's used it for 1000+ hours but it only says about 300 hours used. He only uses it for movies and games though (tv is watched on a different set).

    Djeet on
  • ElJeffeElJeffe Moderator, ClubPA mod
    edited April 2009
    darleysam wrote: »
    ElJeffe wrote: »
    darleysam wrote: »
    ElJeffe wrote: »
    I have my 360 set to use "extended blacks" in the system settings, and it looks pretty nice. No weird black bar problems, or anything.

    I tried all three settings and have had to go with Standard for the time-being, since the other two just made everything look really dark. Obviously it's meant to make the blacks look better, but it just seemed to act like the brightness was way down. And images seemed more prone to looking smudgy, too. Shame, as while Standard is brighter and clearer, it comparatively looks too bright. Damnit.

    If your TV is able to, you should ideally be calibrating the picture settings per-input. So if the extended blacks setting makes things too dark for your tastes, you could compensate by upping the brightness on the TV end.

    Now, if "extended blacks" just means "darker," then there's not much point. And if your TV can only have universal picture settings rather than per-input, then you probably don't want to jack everything else up for the sake of extended blacks. But just FYI.

    I need to have a play around with it and see what I can turn up. At the moment it is just being used for the 360 and probably dvds eventually, but that's as far as it goes. I could almost do with getting some test patterns and trying them out through the 360 to see what it comes up with.
    I'm open to the possibility that the game is actually that dark in places, and I'm just not used to seeing it like that.

    Most games I've played lately that would be likely to have dark regions have a handy initial brightness/gamma calibrator, that works pretty well. Dead Space had this, and I think Mirror's Edge did, too.

    It's also the case that what seems too dark in bright light looks perfect with the lights dimmed - just throwing that out there.

    But if you haven't yet calibrated your system, definitely track down DVE or Avia. If you have Netflix, they carry them. If not, it's worth the $20 to pick one up.

    ElJeffe on
    I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
  • EshEsh Tending bar. FFXIV. Motorcycles. Portland, ORRegistered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Not a TV question, but a monitor one...


    Is anyone familiar with this LCD monitor?

    Esh on
  • darleysamdarleysam On my way to UKRegistered User regular
    edited April 2009
    ElJeffe wrote: »
    Most games I've played lately that would be likely to have dark regions have a handy initial brightness/gamma calibrator, that works pretty well. Dead Space had this, and I think Mirror's Edge did, too.

    It's also the case that what seems too dark in bright light looks perfect with the lights dimmed - just throwing that out there.

    But if you haven't yet calibrated your system, definitely track down DVE or Avia. If you have Netflix, they carry them. If not, it's worth the $20 to pick one up.

    A quick search seems to turn up Avia, but only in Region 1. Wonder if there's any UK equivalent stuff. I've done the Halo 3 video calibration stuff as best as I can (no blue filter for its colour setup), although the contrast test doesn't seem to work properly, where the instruction is to turn the contrast all the way up until the image disappears, then turn it back down. It never disappears..

    darleysam on
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  • BurtletoyBurtletoy Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Drakeon wrote: »
    So, my SD tv is dieing on me and it's got me looking at HD tvs. So my question is, where do I look for deals on HD tv's? I'm probably looking for something around 29-32 inches, in which case, does anyone have a ballpark on what they usually run from?

    slickdeals.net Go to their forums and click on video, my friend.


    xzzy wrote: »
    That seems like a heck of a lot of TV for not a lot of money.

    What's the catch?


    It's a slick deal. Haha, mostly thats its DLP, I think. I've never heard anything bad about 6ave.com but every bad rating from that site seems to suggest they have slow shipping however.

    Burtletoy on
  • xzzyxzzy Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Clipse wrote: »
    xzzy wrote: »
    Now that I think about it, I've only seen it when I'm using my xbox.. no dvd's, just netflix and in games.

    The xbox is using component inputs. I have the tv set to use the 'game' mode.

    I'll check the dynamic contrast later on.

    Do you have the 360 outputting 1080p? I had some issues with using 1080p over component from my 360, it would lose the signal sporadically. I just picked up a cheap up a cheap HDMI cable, but if you've got an older 360 with no HDMI out, try running it at 1080i and see if that helps.

    Yeah, running at 1080p. I'll give it a try.

    xzzy on
  • ElJeffeElJeffe Moderator, ClubPA mod
    edited April 2009
    darleysam wrote: »
    ElJeffe wrote: »
    Most games I've played lately that would be likely to have dark regions have a handy initial brightness/gamma calibrator, that works pretty well. Dead Space had this, and I think Mirror's Edge did, too.

    It's also the case that what seems too dark in bright light looks perfect with the lights dimmed - just throwing that out there.

    But if you haven't yet calibrated your system, definitely track down DVE or Avia. If you have Netflix, they carry them. If not, it's worth the $20 to pick one up.

    A quick search seems to turn up Avia, but only in Region 1. Wonder if there's any UK equivalent stuff. I've done the Halo 3 video calibration stuff as best as I can (no blue filter for its colour setup), although the contrast test doesn't seem to work properly, where the instruction is to turn the contrast all the way up until the image disappears, then turn it back down. It never disappears..

    Any THX-certified DVD will have some calibration tests on it. Not as exhaustive as the Avia stuff, but still a good set of tools. (At least this holds in the US...)

    ElJeffe on
    I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
  • Post BluePost Blue Redmond, WARegistered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Please forgive me if I've missed it somewhere along the line, but do any of you TV folks know anything about when Panasonic will start rolling out new iterations of last year's 800U and 850U series? I haven't been impressed by anything they've released so far this year, but I was a big fan of their flagship panels from last year, so I'd like to see what they've got before springing for a great deal on an 800U.

    Post Blue on
    Moments before the wind.
  • MalkorMalkor Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Scrublet wrote: »
    Drakeon wrote: »
    chasm wrote: »

    Thanks.

    Also, I was looking in consumer reports, and this caught my eye. It got good ratings and is pretty cheap compared to other 32 inches that I've looked at. Anyone have any experience with Toshiba Regzas?

    It's pretty cheap cause it's Toshiba. Go to a store and look at it. Do you notice a difference between it and the higher quality samsung/sonys? If not, by all means go for it and enjoy.

    But LG, Sharp, Toshiba, etc., are cheaper for a reason. They aren't as nice. Assholes like me notice. Lots of other people don't :)

    My friend has a 37 in. Polaroid that his roommate got from WalMart when she moved in. You wouldn't know that sitting around it playing PS3, watching blu-ray movies or sports.

    Unless you really care about getting the best for your money and plan on taking advantage of your setup to its fullest extent you're not going to notice the extra money you shelled out except for in your wallet.

    Unfortunately a certain segment of the population can't do that, myself included.

    Malkor on
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  • ElJeffeElJeffe Moderator, ClubPA mod
    edited April 2009
    Malkor wrote: »
    My friend has a 37 in. Polaroid that his roommate got from WalMart when she moved in. You wouldn't know that sitting around it playing PS3, watching blu-ray movies or sports.

    Unless you really care about getting the best for your money and plan on taking advantage of your setup to its fullest extent you're not going to notice the extra money you shelled out except for in your wallet.

    Unfortunately a certain segment of the population can't do that, myself included.

    Well, a lot of people probably can't tell the difference between driving a Gremlin and driving a BMW. The differences are still there.

    ElJeffe on
    I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
  • chasmchasm Ill-tempered Texan Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    Polaroids are monumental pieces of shit. Like an 80% return rate on them within the first week for debilitating defects. I wish I was exaggerating.

    chasm on
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  • ElJeffeElJeffe Moderator, ClubPA mod
    edited April 2009
    Yeah, if your TV is made by a company famous for something that isn't TVs? It is almost certainly a piece of shit.

    See also: Memorex.

    ElJeffe on
    I submitted an entry to Lego Ideas, and if 10,000 people support me, it'll be turned into an actual Lego set!If you'd like to see and support my submission, follow this link.
  • gneGnegneGne Registered User regular
    edited April 2009
    What can you recommend for a small 26" LCD set?

    gneGne on
    pasigcopyox6.jpg
  • Post BluePost Blue Redmond, WARegistered User regular
    edited April 2009
    ElJeffe wrote: »
    Yeah, if your TV is made by a company famous for something that isn't TVs? It is almost certainly a piece of shit.

    See also: Memorex.
    There's nothing wrong with companies that got their start elsewhere and do multiple things well, but yeah, both of those brands incidentally happen to suck.

    Post Blue on
    Moments before the wind.
This discussion has been closed.