So I managed to get a Cintiq 12wx for a really good price and I am so impressed so far. I upgraded from a Graphire4 so having this much more pressure sensitivity was a bit to get used to and set up, but totally worth it. Here's what I started with it:
Do any of you have a Cintiq and use a screen protector? I thought about buying one but I don't know if it would change the pressure sensitivity any.
The_Glad_HatterOne Sly FoxUnderneath a Groovy HatRegistered Userregular
edited April 2011
So for the first time in a year, i used my tablet for something more than just edit drawings.
i've been working on this for 3 hours, and i just feel like i'm stuck. Gotten to a point where i'm just doing minor tweeks, and i could really use some input.
i'd start a thread, but the upcoming wedding's gonna limit my drawing time severely.... Plus i'm not confident enough in my stuff to start a new thread yet. I've been doing ots of studies and some vilppu stuff.
Don't feel self conscious about starting a thread.
I did my stupid thing where I piss on a section of your drawing for 30 minutes and make a gif explaining what I did. Hopefully you find it helpful.
The paintover comparison:
Step by Step:
Step 1.
So first things first, this is a very high key image and that makes it very challenging because you're working in a super narrow value range, and the lighting here is extremely soft and diffuse so you don't get the convenience of dramatic shadows and easy to pick out planes of light. That means you have to have an extremely keen eye for picking out value patterns and a soft hand for representing them, so do not feel frustrated at all if you had a hard time with this image. Anyway, while this is a high key image, yours is flirting a little too much with pure white, and it in fact looks like you are painting all of this on a white background. I find it a million times easier to, after making a basic sketch, start immediately with a midtone of some kind and work up and down in value from there, that way you do not need to cover every inch of the canvas to "kill the white", and it just makes things work better when you get around to controlling the highlights that you *do* want. In this paintover, I just set down a simple multiply layer with a paintbucket full of a light gray to tone it down a wee bit where the canvas is peeking through.
Step 2.
This step is kind of hard to explain without getting extremely verbose. Most of the changes can be classified as drawing corrections or value adjustments. There were some drawing issues with the jawline not being quite round enough, and the mouth being just a hair too low and the lips not full enough.
The brushstrokes you made to help define the face were simply too harsh. This is a young girl's face in diffuse light, and so softness is the order of the day. Between the shadow beneath the cheekbone, and the white areas on the frontal planes of the face, there is simply too much jagged variance of values. I took a big soft round brush and almost flattened the value of the face entirely, going back in and with a very very soft brush and small value shift redefined the shadows beneath the cheekbone, eyes and mouth. I also softened up the hairline a little bit, and softened up the eyebrows. You drew the eyebrows seemingly focusing on individual hairs, and so it ended up a little caterpillar-y and heavy. It's much more important to think in terms of value when dealing with hair.
Step 3.
Some more tweaking to get the jawline to look correct, and moving the eye down just a little bit. I simplified the hair by massing in some blacks. Don't get caught up in portraying every strand and lock of hair-- the big shapes and the shifting values will give a much better sense of hair than drawing every solitary strand. There is room to come in at a later point and redefine some of those individual hairs to bring them back out.
Step 4.
Some final tweaking to the jawline to make sure it's as soft and round as it needs to be. Some small refinements and attention given to the hair where necessary. This girl has some lovely freckles, and I had just the brush for the job. It was just a small tap with a very simple "speckle" type brush, with a soft round eraser to clean up the placement, set on a very low opacity multiply layer. Touches like these can help a lot for portraying the material qualities of skin, but it can be really tricky, so it would not have been a crime for you to omit that step at this stage in your learning.
I think that covers most of it, let me know if you need any clarification.
So I managed to get a Cintiq 12wx for a really good price and I am so impressed so far. I upgraded from a Graphire4 so having this much more pressure sensitivity was a bit to get used to and set up, but totally worth it. Here's what I started with it:
Do any of you have a Cintiq and use a screen protector? I thought about buying one but I don't know if it would change the pressure sensitivity any.
The colors are really nice and its smooth as hell, but you should go for some more detail on the face/ribcage/wings to pull it together a bit
Dances with Magpies - that is freaking awesome! Love the overall colour palette and cuteness in the face. I agree with Thane about adding the details to complete the overall finish.
Who the hell doesnt like painting textures? No one.
Who doesn't like UV mapping - everyone!
Some shite im doing for Tafe - playing with Normal and Specular maps.
i guess these are doodles since im not putting in lots of time getting it absolutely right.
The screen protector won't mess with your pressure sensitivity because the pressure sensitivity is in the pen, not the actual surface. You can lay sheets of vellum over your tablet or cintiq if you want and it'll still have it's full sensitivity. It doesn't drop out until youre half an inch off the physical surface of the tablet, that's about the distance where the magnetic resonance weakens and it starts missing clicks.
The screen protector won't mess with your pressure sensitivity because the pressure sensitivity is in the pen, not the actual surface. You can lay sheets of vellum over your tablet or cintiq if you want and it'll still have it's full sensitivity. It doesn't drop out until youre half an inch off the physical surface of the tablet, that's about the distance where the magnetic resonance weakens and it starts missing clicks.
Thank you so much for that info! I really want to keep this in as perfect condition as I can for as long as possible.
Don't feel self conscious about starting a thread.
I did my stupid thing where I piss on a section of your drawing for 30 minutes and make a gif explaining what I did. Hopefully you find it helpful.
Thanks a lot Scosglen! This is EXACTLY the kind of feedback you secretly hope for when you post a wip. i'm gonna print out your comments and give it another go this afternoon. I really appreciate your help. thank you.
Also Tam: labelling the original link NSFW, posted underneath a giant boob, was pretty silly
Quick question, does anyone have advice for me and my problem? The last few times I did a drawing session, I had the habit of focusing on a single limb and then another limb, and then their chest, ect. But when I would finish, their body would be stretched out and disproportionate.
Quick question, does anyone have advice for me and my problem? The last few times I did a drawing session, I had the habit of focusing on a single limb and then another limb, and then their chest, ect. But when I would finish, their body would be stretched out and disproportionate.
Try to imagine that every part of the drawing should be "equally finished" as you draw.
Vilppu describes drawing as looking at someone walking towards you. In the beginning you just see a shape, as he nears more and more detail comes in. Try to work trough the entire model in stages.
First try to capture the entire thing in a few strokes, and them "zoom in" on the whole.
Quick question, does anyone have advice for me and my problem? The last few times I did a drawing session, I had the habit of focusing on a single limb and then another limb, and then their chest, ect. But when I would finish, their body would be stretched out and disproportionate.
as hatter said, try to create the whole figure in a few strokes. Sometimes the lines of the body show certain shapes that should make it easier to construct a quick figure of the body.
Also try comparing lengths and widths of the spaces between what you're drawing. It's sometimes easy to get lost in comparing lengths and widths of what you're actually drawing and thus you can forget to compare the relations between other bodyparts.
Don't feel self conscious about starting a thread.
I did my stupid thing where I piss on a section of your drawing for 30 minutes and make a gif explaining what I did. Hopefully you find it helpful.
[SCOSGLEN BEING AWESOME]
Posts like these are the very best thing about this forum. I have some props and I would like to give you most of them.
I agree wholeheartedly, I think paintovers and step by step "how to fix your painting" instructions are helpful to not only the poster, but to anyone that sees it. Thanks scos.
I spent all afternoon reading scosglen's notes and applying them to my drawing. I did my best to make sure that i kept basing myself on the original, and not just copy scosglen's drawings. (even though i made screenshots of the figs so i could toggle them on and off at my own pace....).
LIke yesterday, i'm now at a point where i've almost run out of things to fix in this drawing. so unless anyone sees any super-obvious things i missed, i'm gonna call this one finished, and hopefully move on to the next one soon.
Here's a lil' screenshot of the result. i'll gather some drawings and start my own thread asap.
i was quite happy with the drawing yesterday, but now that i've incorperated scos' notes i'm really glad i did. learned a lot....
Royce--yea, what they said. My drawing teacher is really tough about not letting us "finish" any part until we have the whole figure down. He made us draw tons of abstract/shapes and just do very basic stuff until he was satisfied that we were looking just at lines and not thinking about what we were drawing as objects.
Per Tam's advice, I tried to loosen up the guy on the left's pose a bit, and tried to do big, sweeping lines on the guy on the right, to give him a little more flow. I'm not happy with the black/white balance, and had originally intended to make the background really dark and inky, so the characters would pop more. But I changed my mind at some point. I'm going to fiddle with it a little more, tweaking the costume details of the guy on the left, and putting an old-school Marvel-style floating head in the box at the upper left.
I'm also not sure if I like the grainy yellow filter, so here's a bigger version without it.
Fake Edit: What the shit, don't buy it at that price though. Find it at a local bookstore or wait until a reprint brings it back down to the original $25 or around there, that price is ludicrous for a book that only came out a couple months ago.
Posts
Do any of you have a Cintiq and use a screen protector? I thought about buying one but I don't know if it would change the pressure sensitivity any.
i've been working on this for 3 hours, and i just feel like i'm stuck. Gotten to a point where i'm just doing minor tweeks, and i could really use some input.
i'd start a thread, but the upcoming wedding's gonna limit my drawing time severely.... Plus i'm not confident enough in my stuff to start a new thread yet. I've been doing ots of studies and some vilppu stuff.
And here's the original on deviantart. NSFW.
hahaha. no shit, hatter
the drawing's coming along nicely though, use as large brush as you can manage
I did my stupid thing where I piss on a section of your drawing for 30 minutes and make a gif explaining what I did. Hopefully you find it helpful.
The paintover comparison:
Step by Step:
Step 1.
So first things first, this is a very high key image and that makes it very challenging because you're working in a super narrow value range, and the lighting here is extremely soft and diffuse so you don't get the convenience of dramatic shadows and easy to pick out planes of light. That means you have to have an extremely keen eye for picking out value patterns and a soft hand for representing them, so do not feel frustrated at all if you had a hard time with this image. Anyway, while this is a high key image, yours is flirting a little too much with pure white, and it in fact looks like you are painting all of this on a white background. I find it a million times easier to, after making a basic sketch, start immediately with a midtone of some kind and work up and down in value from there, that way you do not need to cover every inch of the canvas to "kill the white", and it just makes things work better when you get around to controlling the highlights that you *do* want. In this paintover, I just set down a simple multiply layer with a paintbucket full of a light gray to tone it down a wee bit where the canvas is peeking through.
Step 2.
This step is kind of hard to explain without getting extremely verbose. Most of the changes can be classified as drawing corrections or value adjustments. There were some drawing issues with the jawline not being quite round enough, and the mouth being just a hair too low and the lips not full enough.
The brushstrokes you made to help define the face were simply too harsh. This is a young girl's face in diffuse light, and so softness is the order of the day. Between the shadow beneath the cheekbone, and the white areas on the frontal planes of the face, there is simply too much jagged variance of values. I took a big soft round brush and almost flattened the value of the face entirely, going back in and with a very very soft brush and small value shift redefined the shadows beneath the cheekbone, eyes and mouth. I also softened up the hairline a little bit, and softened up the eyebrows. You drew the eyebrows seemingly focusing on individual hairs, and so it ended up a little caterpillar-y and heavy. It's much more important to think in terms of value when dealing with hair.
Step 3.
Some more tweaking to get the jawline to look correct, and moving the eye down just a little bit. I simplified the hair by massing in some blacks. Don't get caught up in portraying every strand and lock of hair-- the big shapes and the shifting values will give a much better sense of hair than drawing every solitary strand. There is room to come in at a later point and redefine some of those individual hairs to bring them back out.
Step 4.
Some final tweaking to the jawline to make sure it's as soft and round as it needs to be. Some small refinements and attention given to the hair where necessary. This girl has some lovely freckles, and I had just the brush for the job. It was just a small tap with a very simple "speckle" type brush, with a soft round eraser to clean up the placement, set on a very low opacity multiply layer. Touches like these can help a lot for portraying the material qualities of skin, but it can be really tricky, so it would not have been a crime for you to omit that step at this stage in your learning.
I think that covers most of it, let me know if you need any clarification.
The colors are really nice and its smooth as hell, but you should go for some more detail on the face/ribcage/wings to pull it together a bit
Who the hell doesnt like painting textures? No one.
Who doesn't like UV mapping - everyone!
Some shite im doing for Tafe - playing with Normal and Specular maps.
i guess these are doodles since im not putting in lots of time getting it absolutely right.
Ok, here's some more work on it:
The screen protector won't mess with your pressure sensitivity because the pressure sensitivity is in the pen, not the actual surface. You can lay sheets of vellum over your tablet or cintiq if you want and it'll still have it's full sensitivity. It doesn't drop out until youre half an inch off the physical surface of the tablet, that's about the distance where the magnetic resonance weakens and it starts missing clicks.
Thank you so much for that info! I really want to keep this in as perfect condition as I can for as long as possible.
http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=16534
Have you ever seen an old man eating a Twix?
fixed hopefully. i removed the bump map from the spray paint. now its just a simple image texture.
40 minute speedy painty. probably will finish this one off
Thanks a lot Scosglen! This is EXACTLY the kind of feedback you secretly hope for when you post a wip. i'm gonna print out your comments and give it another go this afternoon. I really appreciate your help. thank you.
Also Tam: labelling the original link NSFW, posted underneath a giant boob, was pretty silly
http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=16534
Try to imagine that every part of the drawing should be "equally finished" as you draw.
Vilppu describes drawing as looking at someone walking towards you. In the beginning you just see a shape, as he nears more and more detail comes in. Try to work trough the entire model in stages.
First try to capture the entire thing in a few strokes, and them "zoom in" on the whole.
Posts like these are the very best thing about this forum. I have some props and I would like to give you most of them.
on a serious jamie hewlett kick for some reason.
as hatter said, try to create the whole figure in a few strokes. Sometimes the lines of the body show certain shapes that should make it easier to construct a quick figure of the body.
Also try comparing lengths and widths of the spaces between what you're drawing. It's sometimes easy to get lost in comparing lengths and widths of what you're actually drawing and thus you can forget to compare the relations between other bodyparts.
I agree wholeheartedly, I think paintovers and step by step "how to fix your painting" instructions are helpful to not only the poster, but to anyone that sees it. Thanks scos.
Sonic, post more. You are awesome.
Hiking Essentials
Sonic: That spidey looks awesome!!! more, please!
I spent all afternoon reading scosglen's notes and applying them to my drawing. I did my best to make sure that i kept basing myself on the original, and not just copy scosglen's drawings. (even though i made screenshots of the figs so i could toggle them on and off at my own pace....).
LIke yesterday, i'm now at a point where i've almost run out of things to fix in this drawing. so unless anyone sees any super-obvious things i missed, i'm gonna call this one finished, and hopefully move on to the next one soon.
Here's a lil' screenshot of the result. i'll gather some drawings and start my own thread asap.
i was quite happy with the drawing yesterday, but now that i've incorperated scos' notes i'm really glad i did. learned a lot....
Post more, mang!
Per Tam's advice, I tried to loosen up the guy on the left's pose a bit, and tried to do big, sweeping lines on the guy on the right, to give him a little more flow. I'm not happy with the black/white balance, and had originally intended to make the background really dark and inky, so the characters would pop more. But I changed my mind at some point. I'm going to fiddle with it a little more, tweaking the costume details of the guy on the left, and putting an old-school Marvel-style floating head in the box at the upper left.
I'm also not sure if I like the grainy yellow filter, so here's a bigger version without it.
Tumblr Twitter
I'm not saying it has to be detailed, but make sure you construct it as accurately as you can
that's not going into the proportions, I just tried to correct some of the structure
Really shouldn't have thrown in that car 2/3rd of the way through, half-assed the drawing of it.
Twitter
I went doodle crazy today with Foster's Home for Imaginary Friends and I apologize
I feel like I should be making coloring books or something.
That's only because you should be making coloring books or something!
Also, thanks!
Twitter
oh god dammit
COUGH COUGH COUGH
Fake Edit: What the shit, don't buy it at that price though. Find it at a local bookstore or wait until a reprint brings it back down to the original $25 or around there, that price is ludicrous for a book that only came out a couple months ago.
Twitter
And usually ships in 1 to 4 months :x