SLI needs a bridge, regardless of the presence of the NF100/200 chip.
Is this something that would come with the card or the mobo?
I've looked through my stuff and as far as I can tell either my 460 didn't come with one or I got rid of it for some unknown reason.
Depending on whether or not I have to pay to have my current 460 fixed or not will determine if I get a second 460; but I would need this mythical bridge.
Crossfire bridges come with the video cards, SLI bridges come with the motherboard.
For what it's worth, my local Microcenter has bins of both that they'll give away if you ask.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
SLI needs a bridge, regardless of the presence of the NF100/200 chip.
Is this something that would come with the card or the mobo?
I've looked through my stuff and as far as I can tell either my 460 didn't come with one or I got rid of it for some unknown reason.
Depending on whether or not I have to pay to have my current 460 fixed or not will determine if I get a second 460; but I would need this mythical bridge.
SLI bridges come with motherboards, Crossfire bridges come with cards.
EDIT: Beat by hidden second page! Sneaky, sneaky second page...
Oh, ok. Looking at the listing for my new mobo on newegg it comes with the SLI bridge. I'll just hve to make sure to keep it somewhere I wont lose it. Also explains why i don't have one since my current 775 doesn't support dual video cards.
Which is hilarious considering the number of times I almost bought a second 460 in the past year. When I was taking apart my computer to troubleshoot the past few days I noticed there wasn't a second video pci slot. That would have been "hilarious".
I feel sheepish asking something so basic, but any recommendations for 120mm case fans? Favourable brands, design types to avoid etc?
I need to cool my top GPU desperately and want to buy two or three fans to experiment with some additional intake/exhaust options. I don't have a fan controller, don't care about LEDs, and noise doesn't bother me (although I'd rather not get too crazy with the decibels if possible).
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
It really depends on how much you want to/are willing to spend on fans. I've got a bunch of Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15s, which can usually be found for 17-20 bucks per fan depending on the store.
Lower priced fans that'll work well for you include Xigmatek's 120mm offerings, Cooler Master R4s (I think there's a PWM version of the fan, you want the standard 3 pin version). Low speed Yate Loons from Petra's Tech Shop are another good low price option.
I feel sheepish asking something so basic, but any recommendations for 120mm case fans? Favourable brands, design types to avoid etc?
I need to cool my top GPU desperately and want to buy two or three fans to experiment with some additional intake/exhaust options. I don't have a fan controller, don't care about LEDs, and noise doesn't bother me (although I'd rather not get too crazy with the decibels if possible).
These are for your case right, and not your CPU cooler? If so I went with Scythe Slipstreams and they move a boat of air when spinning full speed but theyre also kind of loud. I think my GTX 570 is louder though. Im rocking 2 Gentle Typhoon AP-15s on my Corsair H70 though and those things are silent.
So I'm in the process of ordering everything for my new build and am going with the i5-2500K 3.3ghz. I've never overclocked anything before - if that's the case, will the stock cooler the CPU comes with be sufficient? Or will I be better off shelling out some additional cash for a bigger badder cooler?
So I'm in the process of ordering everything for my new build and am going with the i5-2500K 3.3ghz. I've never overclocked anything before - if that's the case, will the stock cooler the CPU comes with be sufficient? Or will I be better off shelling out some additional cash for a bigger badder cooler?
I wouldnt recommend OCing on the stock HSF, but this is basically all you'll need CPU cooler wise.
I was initially going to get a Coolermaster 212 Evo, but a the Thermalright HR-02 Macho has been getting some seriously good reviews lately. It's only $5 more than the Evo and performs quite a bit better, within 3-5 degrees of it's twice as expensive brethren. The only downside (other than being massive) is there's only one retailer in the US who currently has stock of it, but they're a Thermalright approved reseller so they're legit. http://www.nansgaminggear.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2563118
I can't really say enough good things when it comes to Xigmatek fans. There are better out there, but at the lower price points they're by far my favorite.
Also, whatever you do do not try to overclock on the stock 2500K fan. It can only end in tears. I wasn't able to get it much past like 3.5GHz without the temp creeping up under load. Honestly, that piece of shit HSF is barely sufficient for that processor at stock clocks.
EDIT: Don't need to go crazy with HSF, though. The Cooler Master linked earlier is fine with a 2500K. I've got the Xigmatek Dark Knight, it runs $45 ($25 after rebate) on NewEgg, also quite nice. And sexy. And it gets me up to 4.4GHz without breaking a sweat.
It really depends on how much you want to/are willing to spend on fans. I've got a bunch of Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15s, which can usually be found for 17-20 bucks per fan depending on the store.
Lower priced fans that'll work well for you include Xigmatek's 120mm offerings, Cooler Master R4s (I think there's a PWM version of the fan, you want the standard 3 pin version). Low speed Yate Loons from Petra's Tech Shop are another good low price option.
I put a Noctua 120mm behind the HDD cage this evening, which shaved 10 degrees off the max temp the top GPU was hitting. It maxed at 87, and was generally around 82 - 85 while playing BC2.
Is that a reasonable result? I don't have much basis for comparison... I'm definitely feeling a little better about it at least.
Repeat question from last thread - trying to decide if it's worth upgrading my PSU and keeping my existing video card (GTX 280) or to keep my existing PSU (550w Antec) and upgrading to a GTX 570. Also, how strong of a PSU do I need if I'm not planning on using SLI?
Second question - do games get much out of quad cores these days, or am I fine sticking with a dual core?
No reason to upgrade your PSU if you already have a 550W. You'll see a big jump if you go to the GTX 570 though.
It really depends on how much you want to/are willing to spend on fans. I've got a bunch of Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15s, which can usually be found for 17-20 bucks per fan depending on the store.
Lower priced fans that'll work well for you include Xigmatek's 120mm offerings, Cooler Master R4s (I think there's a PWM version of the fan, you want the standard 3 pin version). Low speed Yate Loons from Petra's Tech Shop are another good low price option.
Can we throw this information into the OP?
120mm case fans/200mm case fans/HSF recommendations? I would have loved to have had this info when initially building, as it was a very harrowing experience for me, and because I'm seeing temps higher than I'd like. I intend to crack open the beast at some point in the near future to upgrade all three (120s, 200s, and the HSF). Had I had any recommendations initially, I likely would have done it during the initial build.
I put a Noctua 120mm behind the HDD cage this evening, which shaved 10 degrees off the max temp the top GPU was hitting. It maxed at 87, and was generally around 82 - 85 while playing BC2.
Is that a reasonable result? I don't have much basis for comparison... I'm definitely feeling a little better about it at least.
Is it a GTX 580? In the old thread, I posted similar results. My EVGA GTX 580 was hitting ~85C with fan speed at 70%, which seemed pretty high. Some google-fu revealed that this is, apparently, typical, and that keeping the case cool overall will go a long way to alleviating elevating temperatures. It's why, at least for me, having some good case fan recommendations are important. I'm going to be stripping the stock Corsair 600T fans out, and likely throwing some Xigmatek 200s (x2) and a Xigamtek 120 (x1) in there. Should help the entire setup stay relatively chill (I hope).
So, does anybody know why keyboards using PS/2 can recognize more simultaneous key presses than keyboards using USB?
In USB keyboards the CPU polls USB to determine key presses, while in a PS/2 connection keystrokes send iterrupts. Also the PS/2 connection allows for N-Key rollover (NKRO) which provides the capability of all the keys being registered simultaneously, while USB only provides 6-Key Rollover plus modifiers. There are USB keyboards out there that will provide more "Key Rollover", but they'll appear as multiple USB devices. It's more cost-effective for keyboard manufacturers to implement high performance keyboards using the PS/2 connection rather than develop new drivers that will provide similar functionality on USB. Linky.
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21stCenturyCall me Pixel, or Pix for short![They/Them]Registered Userregular
OKAY! Here's my plan for a computer Version 3.0! I think it might be the one, but I'd still like you guys to critique my choice. It's my first time buying parts and building a computer, so I'm still a bit nervous, especially since i'm not very savvy.
Right, does that look good? It fits in my budget nicely, has room to grow and seems like it'd be enough to run most of the games I mindlessly bought without making sure I could run them.
Is that a good GPU I picked? I kinda picked it off the top sellers, so i wanna make sure it's a good one for a gaming PC.
I'm trying to figure out IPS displays, to get one for Christmas. Between picture editing and leaning over my desk in odd ways, my TN display is starting to annoy me. Looking for something 23", in the $300-400 range. Pointing me in the direction of some reading would work well too, I can't find anything actually helpful.
@21stCentury
Everything there looks solid. I like Sapphire graphics cards (although I currently have an XFX), and the 6950 is pretty awesome (slightly less awesome now that you can't unlock them to 6970s, but that's a special case anyway).
1) If it's available, I'd recommend the Spinpoint F3 1TB over the Hitachi drive. Rates of DOA/failure appear to be substantially lower.
2) You can definitely get away with a 600-650W power supply if you don't plan to Crossfire in the future. Also, modular power supplies make for an easier cable management job than non-modular.
1) If it's available, I'd recommend the Spinpoint F3 1TB over the Hitachi drive. Rates of DOA/failure appear to be substantially lower.
2) You can definitely get away with a 600-650W power supply if you don't plan to Crossfire in the future. Also, modular power supplies make for an easier cable management job than non-modular.
Oh, but I plan to Crossfire. Thanks for the HDD suggestion. What's DOA mean Dead on Arrival?
Edit: This one?
I'm trying to figure out IPS displays, to get one for Christmas. Between picture editing and leaning over my desk in odd ways, my TN display is starting to annoy me. Looking for something 23", in the $300-400 range. Pointing me in the direction of some reading would work well too, I can't find anything actually helpful.
Newegg has a couple of 23" IPS displays from $189 to about $300. There isn't really anything between $300-400 other than a 21.5", but one you go above $500 you start getting into the 24" displays from Asus, Dell, and HP.
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
An alternative to IPS if you're looking to pay for quality is a 120hz monitor. I own both an IPS and a 120hz TN. They're both things of beauty, in their own rights. They're worth looking into as well, if you're shopping around.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
OKAY! Here's my plan for a computer Version 3.0! I think it might be the one, but I'd still like you guys to critique my choice. It's my first time buying parts and building a computer, so I'm still a bit nervous, especially since i'm not very savvy.
Right, does that look good? It fits in my budget nicely, has room to grow and seems like it'd be enough to run most of the games I mindlessly bought without making sure I could run them.
Is that a good GPU I picked? I kinda picked it off the top sellers, so i wanna make sure it's a good one for a gaming PC.
Looks good, I agree with comments above. Also, Newegg.ca is often overpriced, be sure to take a look at ncix and other canadian suppliers for cheaper prices.
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21stCenturyCall me Pixel, or Pix for short![They/Them]Registered Userregular
OKAY! Here's my plan for a computer Version 3.0! I think it might be the one, but I'd still like you guys to critique my choice. It's my first time buying parts and building a computer, so I'm still a bit nervous, especially since i'm not very savvy.
Right, does that look good? It fits in my budget nicely, has room to grow and seems like it'd be enough to run most of the games I mindlessly bought without making sure I could run them.
Is that a good GPU I picked? I kinda picked it off the top sellers, so i wanna make sure it's a good one for a gaming PC.
Looks good, I agree with comments above. Also, Newegg.ca is often overpriced, be sure to take a look at ncix and other canadian suppliers for cheaper prices.
Oh, I see, I'll check NCIX out. What are some other good Canadian suppliers?
Edit: I checked NCIX out and so far, everything is either costlier, not in stock or both. Thanks for trying to save me money, but I might stick to Newegg.ca .
I'm trying to figure out IPS displays, to get one for Christmas. Between picture editing and leaning over my desk in odd ways, my TN display is starting to annoy me. Looking for something 23", in the $300-400 range. Pointing me in the direction of some reading would work well too, I can't find anything actually helpful.
In that price range I would personally go with either the HP zr24w or the Dell Ultrasharp 24" with LED backlighting. I went for the zr24w since I got it for $250, but the Dell can be had for $300 and will probably go on sale more regularly or at the very least will be at $300 more regularly.
21stCenturyCall me Pixel, or Pix for short![They/Them]Registered Userregular
Oh damnit! I was gonna order and both the GPU and keyboard I picked out are sold out. I was getting a SAPPHIRE 100312-3SR Radeon HD 6950. Actually, I'm not entirely sure what I need, GPU-wise, what'd be good cards to look out for that would let me play current games at nice, "high" graphics?
So, got the RMA process all complete and approved.
It appears they'll be sending me a replacement card with a box to mail mine back to them.
So, that's cool? Anyone have any experience with this stuff specifically with EVGA, but maybe other card companies too?
Will it just be "all good" when I get my new card and mail mine back in? Is there a chance they're going to test the card and be like "dude is a dipshit, give us our crap back?" or will they just refurb it and resell it?
I'm asking because I've been debating getting a second 460 and if I can be pretty sure I'm in the clear here for getting this replaced cleanly, I will go ahead and buy the second one whenever Newegg gets it back in stock (if).
long story short my card is overheating pretty frequently leading to full on system crashes. I've gone through the whole RMA process with EVGA and there was some question as to whether or not they'd honor my lifetime warranty (due to my own fault) in replacing my video card, but here's where I am at.
well in the old thread someone had mentioned sound cards as about as effective as LAN cards but I would have to disagree. The onboard sound on my z68 board was really good, but sound quality noticeably improved when I put my OOOOOLD Audigy SB0090 in. Plus whatever processing I used to have to do with onboard is now..not done onboard so I can disable it (if I can ever figure out why my keyboard doesn't work until the windows logon screen...)
This is mostly true for analog audio. A DAC on an aftermarket soundcard (even a cheap one) will beat the pants off the tiny 15cent DAC chip on your motherboard, for sure. However, if you're going digital audio-out (like with an optical/coax or usb cable), there's no need to bother. The digital audio will come out clean and be decoded by whatever external speakers/amp/receiver you're plugging it into, and they will do a better job than your onboard DAC would.
I've always wondered about upgrading my speakers to use digital out but my macbook pro (where I do all my audio work) doesn't have digital out (i don't think - unless somehow they can convert a mini jack to digital?)
That actually might solve my current problems with figuring out how to use both my PC and my Mac with 1 set of speakers and maintain quality. Hrm.
Question. I have the Z60 (i think) Logiteck THX speakers that are super old and my front left has at some point been blown. Can I just replace it with a rear speaker or do they have different frequency outputs? I just use 2.1
Question. I have the Z60 (i think) Logiteck THX speakers that are super old and my front left has at some point been blown. Can I just replace it with a rear speaker or do they have different frequency outputs? I just use 2.1
I'm not entirely sure, but if all the surround speakers are the same you should be able to swap a working one for a non-working front speaker. It's not going to hurt anything to try because they should all be identical drivers in the speakers.
@Cormac@emp123
Thanks that's essentially a cross section of what I've found. Mainly looking at the Dell 2312 and 2412. Spent some time reading today and they seem like the best bang for my buck. Now just gotta sit back and wait for some sales.
So, got the RMA process all complete and approved.
It appears they'll be sending me a replacement card with a box to mail mine back to them.
So, that's cool? Anyone have any experience with this stuff specifically with EVGA, but maybe other card companies too?
Will it just be "all good" when I get my new card and mail mine back in? Is there a chance they're going to test the card and be like "dude is a dipshit, give us our crap back?" or will they just refurb it and resell it?
I'm asking because I've been debating getting a second 460 and if I can be pretty sure I'm in the clear here for getting this replaced cleanly, I will go ahead and buy the second one whenever Newegg gets it back in stock (if).
long story short my card is overheating pretty frequently leading to full on system crashes. I've gone through the whole RMA process with EVGA and there was some question as to whether or not they'd honor my lifetime warranty (due to my own fault) in replacing my video card, but here's where I am at.
/sigh update to this post with another question (sorry):
I have this card: HERE
It's out of stock all over the interwebs except places that are charging way the fuck too much.
However when I searched for my card on EVGA's site it only came up with this card: HERE
Spec wise, they're pretty much identical. However they have a totally different heatsink/fan casing which is pretty obvious if you look at the links.
The model numbers are different too as the first one is a 01G-P3-1373-AR and the second is a 01G-P3-1372-AR, the only difference being the 2 and 3.
So...whats the deal? Will these still SLI? Will I run to problems if I get the "2" one?
EDIT: Yeah, the fan thing mine is the "EE" version (external exhaust), the other one is..uh? Not exhaust? I can't tell.
I think their clock is the same. Well, what they're "Superclocked" to is the same for the memory and gpu. Unless I'm missing something. Their details pages are identical except the EE version listing a "1.4 HDMI" connector; which, afaik isn't even relevant atm, at least not to me.
as far as their fan directions, assuming the card EVGA is sending me is also an EE and not one of these top mounted fans, how should I place them in the case? The one with the fan on top and the EE one below since the intake isn't as important? Maybe?
EDIT: Fuck it, ordered it. If I have problems I'll just return it. Between upgrading my cpu/mobo and going dual 460's I should have just bought myself several more years for this PC if need be.
The difference is one is the reference design and the other is EVGA's design. You should be able to SLI these without any issues (and the cards will run at the slower card's speed).
Is one slower? As far as I can tell they're exactly the same? You're the second person to say that so I feel like I'm missing something. I already ordered it and need to cancel it tonight (if I still can) if something isn't right. I just don't want to pay $50+ more for the EE version if this one will work fine and is the same clock (since I payed extra for the superclock on both).
Posts
Crossfire bridges come with the video cards, SLI bridges come with the motherboard.
For what it's worth, my local Microcenter has bins of both that they'll give away if you ask.
SLI bridges come with motherboards, Crossfire bridges come with cards.
EDIT: Beat by hidden second page! Sneaky, sneaky second page...
Which is hilarious considering the number of times I almost bought a second 460 in the past year. When I was taking apart my computer to troubleshoot the past few days I noticed there wasn't a second video pci slot. That would have been "hilarious".
Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
I need to cool my top GPU desperately and want to buy two or three fans to experiment with some additional intake/exhaust options. I don't have a fan controller, don't care about LEDs, and noise doesn't bother me (although I'd rather not get too crazy with the decibels if possible).
Lower priced fans that'll work well for you include Xigmatek's 120mm offerings, Cooler Master R4s (I think there's a PWM version of the fan, you want the standard 3 pin version). Low speed Yate Loons from Petra's Tech Shop are another good low price option.
Battle.net
These are for your case right, and not your CPU cooler? If so I went with Scythe Slipstreams and they move a boat of air when spinning full speed but theyre also kind of loud. I think my GTX 570 is louder though. Im rocking 2 Gentle Typhoon AP-15s on my Corsair H70 though and those things are silent.
I wouldnt recommend OCing on the stock HSF, but this is basically all you'll need CPU cooler wise.
Also, whatever you do do not try to overclock on the stock 2500K fan. It can only end in tears. I wasn't able to get it much past like 3.5GHz without the temp creeping up under load. Honestly, that piece of shit HSF is barely sufficient for that processor at stock clocks.
EDIT: Don't need to go crazy with HSF, though. The Cooler Master linked earlier is fine with a 2500K. I've got the Xigmatek Dark Knight, it runs $45 ($25 after rebate) on NewEgg, also quite nice. And sexy. And it gets me up to 4.4GHz without breaking a sweat.
I put a Noctua 120mm behind the HDD cage this evening, which shaved 10 degrees off the max temp the top GPU was hitting. It maxed at 87, and was generally around 82 - 85 while playing BC2.
Is that a reasonable result? I don't have much basis for comparison... I'm definitely feeling a little better about it at least.
No reason to upgrade your PSU if you already have a 550W. You'll see a big jump if you go to the GTX 570 though.
Can we throw this information into the OP?
120mm case fans/200mm case fans/HSF recommendations? I would have loved to have had this info when initially building, as it was a very harrowing experience for me, and because I'm seeing temps higher than I'd like. I intend to crack open the beast at some point in the near future to upgrade all three (120s, 200s, and the HSF). Had I had any recommendations initially, I likely would have done it during the initial build.
Is it a GTX 580? In the old thread, I posted similar results. My EVGA GTX 580 was hitting ~85C with fan speed at 70%, which seemed pretty high. Some google-fu revealed that this is, apparently, typical, and that keeping the case cool overall will go a long way to alleviating elevating temperatures. It's why, at least for me, having some good case fan recommendations are important. I'm going to be stripping the stock Corsair 600T fans out, and likely throwing some Xigmatek 200s (x2) and a Xigamtek 120 (x1) in there. Should help the entire setup stay relatively chill (I hope).
In USB keyboards the CPU polls USB to determine key presses, while in a PS/2 connection keystrokes send iterrupts. Also the PS/2 connection allows for N-Key rollover (NKRO) which provides the capability of all the keys being registered simultaneously, while USB only provides 6-Key Rollover plus modifiers. There are USB keyboards out there that will provide more "Key Rollover", but they'll appear as multiple USB devices. It's more cost-effective for keyboard manufacturers to implement high performance keyboards using the PS/2 connection rather than develop new drivers that will provide similar functionality on USB. Linky.
PSU: CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE
Mobo: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
HDD: HITACHI Deskstar 7K1000.D HDS721010DLE630 (0F13180) 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
DVD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
GPU: SAPPHIRE 100312-3SR Radeon HD 6950
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Pro 64-bit
extra heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler
Keyboard: Sidewinder X4 Keyboard
Mouse: RAZER Orochi Black Bluetooth Notebook Gaming Mouse
Monitor: ASUS VH226H Black 21.5" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor
Right, does that look good? It fits in my budget nicely, has room to grow and seems like it'd be enough to run most of the games I mindlessly bought without making sure I could run them.
Is that a good GPU I picked? I kinda picked it off the top sellers, so i wanna make sure it's a good one for a gaming PC.
Check out my site, the Bismuth Heart | My Twitter
@21stCentury
Everything there looks solid. I like Sapphire graphics cards (although I currently have an XFX), and the 6950 is pretty awesome (slightly less awesome now that you can't unlock them to 6970s, but that's a special case anyway).
Looks good. Two quick things:
1) If it's available, I'd recommend the Spinpoint F3 1TB over the Hitachi drive. Rates of DOA/failure appear to be substantially lower.
2) You can definitely get away with a 600-650W power supply if you don't plan to Crossfire in the future. Also, modular power supplies make for an easier cable management job than non-modular.
Path of Exile: snowcrash7
MTG Arena: Snow_Crash#34179
Battle.net: Snowcrash#1873
Oh, but I plan to Crossfire. Thanks for the HDD suggestion. What's DOA mean Dead on Arrival?
Edit: This one?
Check out my site, the Bismuth Heart | My Twitter
Path of Exile: snowcrash7
MTG Arena: Snow_Crash#34179
Battle.net: Snowcrash#1873
Newegg has a couple of 23" IPS displays from $189 to about $300. There isn't really anything between $300-400 other than a 21.5", but one you go above $500 you start getting into the 24" displays from Asus, Dell, and HP.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236122
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824005234
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824002578
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824116421
Dell has a 23" IPS for $269 http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&sku=320-2807&~ck=baynoteSearch&baynote_bnrank=7&baynote_irrank=0, and a 24" for $349 http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=dhs&cs=19&sku=320-2676&~ck=bnsubcat&~bk=gr:SubCategoryRec_default,g:NextStep,rk:&~lt=popup
Here's a Cnet Monitor Buyers guide http://reviews.cnet.com/monitor-buying-guide/. I haven't read it myself, but it's probably decent.
Looks good, I agree with comments above. Also, Newegg.ca is often overpriced, be sure to take a look at ncix and other canadian suppliers for cheaper prices.
Oh, I see, I'll check NCIX out. What are some other good Canadian suppliers?
Edit: I checked NCIX out and so far, everything is either costlier, not in stock or both.
Check out my site, the Bismuth Heart | My Twitter
In that price range I would personally go with either the HP zr24w or the Dell Ultrasharp 24" with LED backlighting. I went for the zr24w since I got it for $250, but the Dell can be had for $300 and will probably go on sale more regularly or at the very least will be at $300 more regularly.
Check out my site, the Bismuth Heart | My Twitter
long story short my card is overheating pretty frequently leading to full on system crashes. I've gone through the whole RMA process with EVGA and there was some question as to whether or not they'd honor my lifetime warranty (due to my own fault) in replacing my video card, but here's where I am at.
Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
I've always wondered about upgrading my speakers to use digital out but my macbook pro (where I do all my audio work) doesn't have digital out (i don't think - unless somehow they can convert a mini jack to digital?)
That actually might solve my current problems with figuring out how to use both my PC and my Mac with 1 set of speakers and maintain quality. Hrm.
Question. I have the Z60 (i think) Logiteck THX speakers that are super old and my front left has at some point been blown. Can I just replace it with a rear speaker or do they have different frequency outputs? I just use 2.1
I'm not entirely sure, but if all the surround speakers are the same you should be able to swap a working one for a non-working front speaker. It's not going to hurt anything to try because they should all be identical drivers in the speakers.
Thanks that's essentially a cross section of what I've found. Mainly looking at the Dell 2312 and 2412. Spent some time reading today and they seem like the best bang for my buck. Now just gotta sit back and wait for some sales.
You'd just need your toslink cable, and something like this
/sigh update to this post with another question (sorry):
I have this card: HERE
It's out of stock all over the interwebs except places that are charging way the fuck too much.
However when I searched for my card on EVGA's site it only came up with this card: HERE
Spec wise, they're pretty much identical. However they have a totally different heatsink/fan casing which is pretty obvious if you look at the links.
The model numbers are different too as the first one is a 01G-P3-1373-AR and the second is a 01G-P3-1372-AR, the only difference being the 2 and 3.
So...whats the deal? Will these still SLI? Will I run to problems if I get the "2" one?
EDIT: Yeah, the fan thing mine is the "EE" version (external exhaust), the other one is..uh? Not exhaust? I can't tell.
Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
as far as their fan directions, assuming the card EVGA is sending me is also an EE and not one of these top mounted fans, how should I place them in the case? The one with the fan on top and the EE one below since the intake isn't as important? Maybe?
EDIT: Fuck it, ordered it. If I have problems I'll just return it. Between upgrading my cpu/mobo and going dual 460's I should have just bought myself several more years for this PC if need be.
Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
Oh, and a quick google says the reference card and the EVGA proprietary card should SLI just fine.
EDIT: You may see better temps with the nonreference card so Id put that one on top (because the top card always runs hotter).