This one. Its kind of surprising the non-reference ones run cooler since the reference use waterblocks (I believe, its been a long time since Ive looked into that) and the non-reference are quieter (which, if my GTX 570 is any indication, is nice but ultimately doesnt mean a whole lot as its easily the loudest thing in my case).
I never had any complaints about the sound level of my 460, until it started overheating and dieing last week, so hopefully having 2 doesn't bug me. I mean, it was definitely the loudest thing in my case, but eh. The rare times I have everything muted and don't have headphones on listening to something, I'm usually being spoken to anyway so I generally just ignore it.
Now however, I can pretty much know to the second when my PC is going to crash based on the fan sound on my card.
This one. Its kind of surprising the non-reference ones run cooler since the reference use waterblocks (I believe, its been a long time since Ive looked into that) and the non-reference are quieter (which, if my GTX 570 is any indication, is nice but ultimately doesnt mean a whole lot as its easily the loudest thing in my case).
Waterblocks? You might be thinking of vapor chambers, which are potentially in use on the non-ref card as well (it refers to the heatpipe type, really). A lot of factors can contribute to temperature, later non-ref cards may exhibit better temperature profiles than earlier reference cards due in part to better silicon or different VRM setups. And generally speaking the larger fans used to exhaust air inside the case are quieter than the "blower" fans used in most reference card coolers.
Waterblocks are heatsinks designed to have liquid coolant run through them for the purposes of cooling the card.
This one. Its kind of surprising the non-reference ones run cooler since the reference use waterblocks (I believe, its been a long time since Ive looked into that) and the non-reference are quieter (which, if my GTX 570 is any indication, is nice but ultimately doesnt mean a whole lot as its easily the loudest thing in my case).
Waterblocks? You might be thinking of vapor chambers, which are potentially in use on the non-ref card as well (it refers to the heatpipe type, really). A lot of factors can contribute to temperature, later non-ref cards may exhibit better temperature profiles than earlier reference cards due in part to better silicon or different VRM setups. And generally speaking the larger fans used to exhaust air inside the case are quieter than the "blower" fans used in most reference card coolers.
Waterblocks are heatsinks designed to have liquid coolant run through them for the purposes of cooling the card.
Yeah, I was totally thinking vapor chambers.
Oh, one downside about the EVGA non-reference design - it vents out of your case and inside it which can lead to slightly higher case/cpu temps. I personally havent noticed (although I honestly have nothing to compare it to) as my CPU hits 60ish under heavy load (and thats with my H70 acting as an exhaust and not like an intake like Corsair recommends).
Hey guys, I'm thinking about putting together a tiny media PC for my living room. I'd like to hook it up to my tv (a 32 inch Vizio LCD) to use the Internet and stream tv from network websites that don't offer their shows through Hulu or Netflix or other aggregators.
My main interests are to build cheap and to have a reasonably small form-factor to fit in my entertainment center. It doesn't need to have any kind of drives for physical media or anything. Help?
Hey guys, I'm thinking about putting together a tiny media PC for my living room. I'd like to hook it up to my tv (a 32 inch Vizio LCD) to use the Internet and stream tv from network websites that don't offer their shows through Hulu or Netflix or other aggregators.
My main interests are to build cheap and to have a reasonably small form-factor to fit in my entertainment center. It doesn't need to have any kind of drives for physical media or anything. Help?
A nettop with Nvidia ION is probably your best bet, but I don't know what the best value ones out there right now are.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Hey guys, I'm thinking about putting together a tiny media PC for my living room. I'd like to hook it up to my tv (a 32 inch Vizio LCD) to use the Internet and stream tv from network websites that don't offer their shows through Hulu or Netflix or other aggregators.
My main interests are to build cheap and to have a reasonably small form-factor to fit in my entertainment center. It doesn't need to have any kind of drives for physical media or anything. Help?
Have you considered something like a Boxee? It will handle most of the streaming you're looking for, and will be under $200.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
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21stCenturyCall me Pixel, or Pix for short![They/Them]Registered Userregular
Hey guys, I'm thinking about putting together a tiny media PC for my living room. I'd like to hook it up to my tv (a 32 inch Vizio LCD) to use the Internet and stream tv from network websites that don't offer their shows through Hulu or Netflix or other aggregators.
My main interests are to build cheap and to have a reasonably small form-factor to fit in my entertainment center. It doesn't need to have any kind of drives for physical media or anything. Help?
Have you considered something like a Boxee? It will handle most of the streaming you're looking for, and will be under $200.
Like minor incident said, boxee (and google tv), both offer a cheap solution for internet tv. As a side note, roku and apple tv are similar devices, but they lack the "browser" ability. Basically what you should remember if you go this route is that all of these platforms are subject to licensing issues. For roku and apple tv, that means that you can't access all internet content, as there's no browser, you just get access to your own files and internet streaming sites that have specifically made a deal with roku/apple tv. With google tv/boxee you get the same access to your own files, licensed streaming sites, and access to a browser. However, even though it should theoretically be the same as using a browser on windows or mac, you can still have problems with sites not allowing you to stream their content through boxee/google tv. Here's a nice article about the differences between them; the article also contains a link to information about the site blocking.
I haven't had any first hand experience with these devices, but my impression is that when it works it will be a much easier, much cheaper solution for accessing internet streaming sites. With the caveat that you will almost certainly find some sites that just won't work with your device, no matter what you do.
If you build your own computer, it will be much more difficult to get it running nicely, but as always you will be able to do more. In your case since you seem to want the bare minimum it might not be worth the extra expense. I went the HTPC route and I like it because I can use it as for a dvr, downloading torrents, streaming internet tv, bluray/dvd player, and as a media server for my laptops. The cheapest you could build a HTPC that could do 1080p would probably be around $400 - $500. Alot is going to depend on what you need/want it to do. A few questions:
Do you need windows? ($30-$100) depending on whether you're a student or not
Is it strictly for tv watching or would you be doing some gaming? (extra $50-$100 for cpu, extra $100-$200 for dedicated gpu)
Do you want DVR ability with local channels? ($70-$100)
Do you want DVR ability with premium cable channels? ($250-$300)
Do you have a lot of media files that you want to put on this computer? (extra $50 for larger hdd)
"The world is a mess, and I just need to rule it" - Dr Horrible
I decided to put off building a new pc for a few more weeks, and wait for another paycheck because prices went up by $30-40 on a few of the parts I had picked out over the weekend.
I had initially the Crucial M4 128GB SSD over the OCZ or other Sandforce based SSD's for reliability. However, the Crucial now seems to fluctuate daily between $15-60 more than the SandForce drives. Since the new SandForce firmware has been released does that mean the stability issues are no longer a problem or is it too soon to tell? Are the SandForce drives doing to be noticeably faster than the M4, or is it a matter of a few seconds or less on reads/writes?
Hey guys, I'm thinking about putting together a tiny media PC for my living room. I'd like to hook it up to my tv (a 32 inch Vizio LCD) to use the Internet and stream tv from network websites that don't offer their shows through Hulu or Netflix or other aggregators.
My main interests are to build cheap and to have a reasonably small form-factor to fit in my entertainment center. It doesn't need to have any kind of drives for physical media or anything. Help?
Have you considered something like a Boxee? It will handle most of the streaming you're looking for, and will be under $200.
Can the Boxee browser reliably access stuff from network websites (e.g. CBS.com etc)? Last time I took a look at it (which was over a year ago) it couldn't.
The benefit of a Windows box is that you won't run into BS where your box is blocked because it's running the wrong OS.
Anywhere I can get good trades for performance/price. I'm not really locked into the budget area. I'm told Starcraft prizes processor speed over Graphics so if I had to bump there I'd probably go up to the 2500K if its worth it.
on't really know what I'm doing with the MOBO or if it is worth it, to get more RAM slots.
Sound card is a bit of a random choice, newegg doesn't have that many available. Am I missing their importance?
My last CPU had a bunch of annoying overheating problems, so I'm not sure if a standalone cooler would be a good choice? The case I'm getting looks pretty neat, so I'm not where you should cut the line on that front.
Anywhere I can get good trades for performance/price. I'm not really locked into the budget area. I'm told Starcraft prizes processor speed over Graphics so if I had to bump there I'd probably go up to the 2500K if its worth it.
on't really know what I'm doing with the MOBO or if it is worth it, to get more RAM slots.
Sound card is a bit of a random choice, newegg doesn't have that many available. Am I missing their importance?
My last CPU had a bunch of annoying overheating problems, so I'm not sure if a standalone cooler would be a good choice? The case I'm getting looks pretty neat, so I'm not where you should cut the line on that front.
Run. Run from the Biostar motherboard. Run from every Biostar product. Run.
Sound cards arent really necessary unless you need a feature the motherboard doesnt provide or do something where sound quality is important (or youre just an audiophile).
If you dont mind buying piecemeal, I got the Samsung Spinpoint 1TB for about the same price as that Seagate (but I bought it on Amazon).
If you like the case go for it, but be warned that it has like zero cable management. The Haf 912 is about the same price and while its cable management isnt fantastic, it is present and is definitely serviceable.
I'll let someone else comment on the power supply as I can never remember which are the ones to look out for and I feel like the OCZ ModXStream is one of the ones to pass on.
Hey guys, I'm thinking about putting together a tiny media PC for my living room. I'd like to hook it up to my tv (a 32 inch Vizio LCD) to use the Internet and stream tv from network websites that don't offer their shows through Hulu or Netflix or other aggregators.
My main interests are to build cheap and to have a reasonably small form-factor to fit in my entertainment center. It doesn't need to have any kind of drives for physical media or anything. Help?
Have you considered something like a Boxee? It will handle most of the streaming you're looking for, and will be under $200.
Can the Boxee browser reliably access stuff from network websites (e.g. CBS.com etc)? Last time I took a look at it (which was over a year ago) it couldn't.
The benefit of a Windows box is that you won't run into BS where your box is blocked because it's running the wrong OS.
I've only occasionally had it have issues. I've used it with CBS, ABC, and I'm sure a few others. Sometimes something doesn't click right and you have to back out of the browser and go back in, but I'd say 85% of the time it's flawless, and the issues it has are minor and quickly fixed. The last couple major software updates have improved in this area dramatically.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
As Day of the Bear said, ASUS, Gigabyte, or ASRock are good choices.
If you're looking for a good deal, you might look at the open-box motherboards. I got my ASRock P67 PRO3 for $55 that way and I'm very happy with it.
Also depending on your needs micro atx boards tend to be cheaper than full size, if you can live with a more compact layout with slightly fewer connectors/slots over all
Generally speaking, asus gigabyte and asrock all put out fairly solid boards.
Are you interested in dual gpu down the line?
Overclocking? (and if you are interested in OCing you'll need to step up to the 2500k)
Its a machine for streaming, programming, and SC2. So I'm guessing I'll really prize processor strength over GPU. If I overclock I'm guessing I should look for a stand-alone cooler? Is it fair to trim down the GPU any further, what is a worthwhile trade below that price point?
As Day of the Bear said, ASUS, Gigabyte, or ASRock are good choices.
If you're looking for a good deal, you might look at the open-box motherboards. I got my ASRock P67 PRO3 for $55 that way and I'm very happy with it.
Also depending on your needs micro atx boards tend to be cheaper than full size, if you can live with a more compact layout with slightly fewer connectors/slots over all
My needs aren't that much. Is there any more trouble in setting up a smaller board?
I'm operating under specific case dimensions, so there's not much choice there (and I'll get it from Amazon since they have free shipping). He won't play any games on it so I'm avoiding the video card (although the case and MB do have room for one to be added if it's ever needed).
Rakai on
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]XBL: Rakayn | PS3: Rakayn | Steam ID
If you're not playing games, what exactly are you planning on using it for? That would help.
Also, I wouldn't go with a Seagate hard drive. Take a look at the Samsung F3. The Antec Neo Eco is similar in price to the BP550 but essentially set up for newer systems with more power on the 12V rail. Doesn't matter since you don't have discrete graphics, but it's a more versatile supply if you decide to keep using it in the future.
Do you need windows? ($30-$100) depending on whether you're a student or not
Is it strictly for tv watching or would you be doing some gaming? (extra $50-$100 for cpu, extra $100-$200 for dedicated gpu)
Do you want DVR ability with local channels? ($70-$100)
Do you want DVR ability with premium cable channels? ($250-$300)
Do you have a lot of media files that you want to put on this computer? (extra $50 for larger hdd)
I've already got a PS3 with Playon running as a media server to it from my computer, so I can reliably stream most everything you can get that way. I'd like the flexibility of an actual computer hooked to my tv, the PS3's browser is shit. And frankly a nettop is probably my best solution, I just didn't know if they're cheaply made and I wanted to explore getting better hardware by building it myself (if it wouldn't cost way more). So to answer your questions:
1.No, got a copy.
2. No gaming.
3. No DVR.
4. No media files, I can steam stuff across from my desktop or use a flash drive to move things over if need be. Small hard drive is fine.
If you're not playing games, what exactly are you planning on using it for? That would help.
Also, I wouldn't go with a Seagate hard drive. Take a look at the Samsung F3. The Antec Neo Eco is similar in price to the BP550 but essentially set up for newer systems with more power on the 12V rail. Doesn't matter since you don't have discrete graphics, but it's a more versatile supply if you decide to keep using it in the future.
Mainly it's used for work and possibly media in future, neither of which will stress the system. However he doesn't upgrade his computer very often (this is replacing a 10 year old computer) so I want it to be able to handle anything in the future. For the power supply, I want a modular design because I'm working with a smaller case, so cutting back on on cables would be a plus.
I guess if you want to future proof it for a long time, an i5-2300 might be worth it, but honestly I'd save the money and go with the i3-2100. It's not like office products or movies are going to become more difficult to run in the future. If you want a modular PSU, sticking with the BP550 won't hurt.
I've already got a PS3 with Playon running as a media server to it from my computer, so I can reliably stream most everything you can get that way. I'd like the flexibility of an actual computer hooked to my tv, the PS3's browser is shit. And frankly a nettop is probably my best solution, I just didn't know if they're cheaply made and I wanted to explore getting better hardware by building it myself (if it wouldn't cost way more). So to answer your questions:
1.No, got a copy.
2. No gaming.
3. No DVR.
4. No media files, I can steam stuff across from my desktop or use a flash drive to move things over if need be. Small hard drive is fine.
Well for an only internet streaming computer you can probably go pretty cheap. In fact any new computer you could get will probaby be good enough to stream internet tv.
For general longevity purposes I'd probably still suggest an i3 2100, or something similar. It gives you enough cpu to do most things for the forseable future, and the integrated video is powerful enough to give you 1080p for your hdtv.
Then you can pick up pretty much the cheapest motherboard you can find that uses the 1155 socket. The only thing to check for would be an hdmi connection. Other than that it's all preferences for what you want to add, but nothing will be necessary for tv playing. Maybe something like the Asrock H61M.
Low wattage psu like the Antec Earthwatts 380. You could bump this up if you think you might want better graphics in the future.
any HTPC case you want. Lianli and Silverstone tend to be higher quality, with a slightly higher price. I went with the Silverstone ML30b because it was the nicest one short enough to fit in my entertainment center.
Cheap hdd and 4-8gb of whatever memory fits you fancy and you should be set. Around $350-$400.
You can probably go cheaper with less future-proofing, but I'm not really sure what the good deals would be, and it's going to be deminishing returns pretty quickly.
"The world is a mess, and I just need to rule it" - Dr Horrible
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
edited October 2011
Llano APU's are also a really good option for basic HTPC use. They're more powerful, graphics-wise, though less so CPU-wise.
Obviously, an SSD is pretty expensive, but even a pretty basic 60ish GB SATA II model would provide enough room for the OS, along with significant improvements in boot time and general system responsiveness. As long as you aren't storing any data locally, the lack of storage space is a non-issue.
If you really want to go with a net-top like system, you should look at a case like this, with a low power solution like Atom or Brazos.
The hour is upon me! My new computer parts (chosen with assistance from this thread's previous iteration, thanks) arrive tomorrow. I'm replacing my 4-5 year old CPU/mobo/videocard/case, and keeping my hard drive, which is currently running a retail full install of Windows 7 64-bit.
I think I'm squared away on assembling this thing, but I'm not really sure what's going to happen once I hit power. My original understanding was that if you replace the mobo you have to reinstall the OS. Fair enough, however I've heard that I "might not have to." I'm not nearly smart enough to make use of that information; what determines whether or not I need to reinstall? Also, are there be activation issues that I should look out for?
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Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
Now however, I can pretty much know to the second when my PC is going to crash based on the fan sound on my card.
Origin: Galedrid - Nintendo: Galedrid/3222-6858-1045
Blizzard: Galedrid#1367 - FFXIV: Galedrid Kingshand
Waterblocks? You might be thinking of vapor chambers, which are potentially in use on the non-ref card as well (it refers to the heatpipe type, really). A lot of factors can contribute to temperature, later non-ref cards may exhibit better temperature profiles than earlier reference cards due in part to better silicon or different VRM setups. And generally speaking the larger fans used to exhaust air inside the case are quieter than the "blower" fans used in most reference card coolers.
Waterblocks are heatsinks designed to have liquid coolant run through them for the purposes of cooling the card.
Battle.net
Yeah, I was totally thinking vapor chambers.
Oh, one downside about the EVGA non-reference design - it vents out of your case and inside it which can lead to slightly higher case/cpu temps. I personally havent noticed (although I honestly have nothing to compare it to) as my CPU hits 60ish under heavy load (and thats with my H70 acting as an exhaust and not like an intake like Corsair recommends).
My main interests are to build cheap and to have a reasonably small form-factor to fit in my entertainment center. It doesn't need to have any kind of drives for physical media or anything. Help?
well thats just nifty! I have a 3,1 and it *seems* to have optical out, though I can't find a confirmation tech spec page =/
It should. Pick up a 75 cent mini optical jack adapter and you'll be golden.
A nettop with Nvidia ION is probably your best bet, but I don't know what the best value ones out there right now are.
Have you considered something like a Boxee? It will handle most of the streaming you're looking for, and will be under $200.
Here was my planned rig, again.
PSU: CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE
Mobo: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
HDD: HITACHI Deskstar 7K1000.D HDS721010DLE630 (0F13180) 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
DVD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
GPU: SAPPHIRE 100312-3SR Radeon HD 6950
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Pro 64-bit
extra heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler
Keyboard: Sidewinder X4 Keyboard
Mouse: RAZER Orochi Black Bluetooth Notebook Gaming Mouse
Monitor: ASUS VH226H Black 21.5" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor
Hope I'm not coming as too hopeless :P It's my first time building and buying parts, so I'm lacking in the self-confidence. :P
Check out my site, the Bismuth Heart | My Twitter
That particular 6950 has a massive-ass cooler (xkcd: massive ass-cooler) that may not fit in your case. You may be better off with this guy
Path of Exile: snowcrash7
MTG Arena: Snow_Crash#34179
Battle.net: Snowcrash#1873
Check out my site, the Bismuth Heart | My Twitter
No problem. Also, d'oh, the first Sapphire you had linked was a 2GB card, and both the Gigabyte you linked and the XFX I linked are 1GB.
Path of Exile: snowcrash7
MTG Arena: Snow_Crash#34179
Battle.net: Snowcrash#1873
Oh, I see, I missed that detail as well. What does that difference entail, exactly?
What about these two? They're both 2GB cards, same number (What's then number called, the 6950? Model number?). Any comment on those?
Check out my site, the Bismuth Heart | My Twitter
If you're planning on a single monitor, then nothing (except ~$30 on average between the 1GB and 2GB versions of cards). Single monitors can't really take advantage of that second gig of GPU memory. For reference: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-6950-1gb-benchmark,3041-15.html
That said, here's a 1GB Sapphire 6950 in-stock for $240.
Path of Exile: snowcrash7
MTG Arena: Snow_Crash#34179
Battle.net: Snowcrash#1873
Oh, marvelous, that sounds like what I need, then. Thank you, Griswold.
Check out my site, the Bismuth Heart | My Twitter
PSU: CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX750 V2 750W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE
Mobo: ASUS P8Z68-V PRO LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
HDD: HITACHI Deskstar 7K1000.D HDS721010DLE630 (0F13180) 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
DVD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
GPU: SAPPHIRE 100312-1GDP Radeon HD 6950 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity
OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Pro 64-bit
extra heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler
Keyboard:LITE-ON SK-1688U/B Black USB Wired Standard Keyboard
Mouse: RAZER Orochi Black Bluetooth Notebook Gaming Mouse
Monitor: ASUS VH226H Black 21.5" 2ms(GTG) HDMI Widescreen LCD Monitor
Gonna try and take pictures for the thread. For posteriority. Gonna check out quickly, to avoid losing parts to other people.
Check out my site, the Bismuth Heart | My Twitter
Like minor incident said, boxee (and google tv), both offer a cheap solution for internet tv. As a side note, roku and apple tv are similar devices, but they lack the "browser" ability. Basically what you should remember if you go this route is that all of these platforms are subject to licensing issues. For roku and apple tv, that means that you can't access all internet content, as there's no browser, you just get access to your own files and internet streaming sites that have specifically made a deal with roku/apple tv. With google tv/boxee you get the same access to your own files, licensed streaming sites, and access to a browser. However, even though it should theoretically be the same as using a browser on windows or mac, you can still have problems with sites not allowing you to stream their content through boxee/google tv. Here's a nice article about the differences between them; the article also contains a link to information about the site blocking.
I haven't had any first hand experience with these devices, but my impression is that when it works it will be a much easier, much cheaper solution for accessing internet streaming sites. With the caveat that you will almost certainly find some sites that just won't work with your device, no matter what you do.
If you build your own computer, it will be much more difficult to get it running nicely, but as always you will be able to do more. In your case since you seem to want the bare minimum it might not be worth the extra expense. I went the HTPC route and I like it because I can use it as for a dvr, downloading torrents, streaming internet tv, bluray/dvd player, and as a media server for my laptops. The cheapest you could build a HTPC that could do 1080p would probably be around $400 - $500. Alot is going to depend on what you need/want it to do. A few questions:
Do you need windows? ($30-$100) depending on whether you're a student or not
Is it strictly for tv watching or would you be doing some gaming? (extra $50-$100 for cpu, extra $100-$200 for dedicated gpu)
Do you want DVR ability with local channels? ($70-$100)
Do you want DVR ability with premium cable channels? ($250-$300)
Do you have a lot of media files that you want to put on this computer? (extra $50 for larger hdd)
I had initially the Crucial M4 128GB SSD over the OCZ or other Sandforce based SSD's for reliability. However, the Crucial now seems to fluctuate daily between $15-60 more than the SandForce drives. Since the new SandForce firmware has been released does that mean the stability issues are no longer a problem or is it too soon to tell? Are the SandForce drives doing to be noticeably faster than the M4, or is it a matter of a few seconds or less on reads/writes?
Can the Boxee browser reliably access stuff from network websites (e.g. CBS.com etc)? Last time I took a look at it (which was over a year ago) it couldn't.
The benefit of a Windows box is that you won't run into BS where your box is blocked because it's running the wrong OS.
First rough pass.
Processor: i5-2400 - $189.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115074
Graphics Card: Asus GTX 460 - $134.99 (pro rebate)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121391
Memory: GSkill Ripjaw 2x4GB - $49.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231428
Case: Raidmax Smilodon - $49.99 (pro rebate)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811156063
Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster - $24.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102003#
HD: Seagate Barracuda - $54.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148699
Mobo: BIOSTAR H61MU3 LGA 1155 Intel H61 - $57.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138311
PSU: OCZ ModXStream Pro 500W - $34.99 (pro rebate)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341016
How's it sound?
Anywhere I can get good trades for performance/price. I'm not really locked into the budget area. I'm told Starcraft prizes processor speed over Graphics so if I had to bump there I'd probably go up to the 2500K if its worth it.
on't really know what I'm doing with the MOBO or if it is worth it, to get more RAM slots.
Sound card is a bit of a random choice, newegg doesn't have that many available. Am I missing their importance?
My last CPU had a bunch of annoying overheating problems, so I'm not sure if a standalone cooler would be a good choice? The case I'm getting looks pretty neat, so I'm not where you should cut the line on that front.
Run. Run from the Biostar motherboard. Run from every Biostar product. Run.
Sound cards arent really necessary unless you need a feature the motherboard doesnt provide or do something where sound quality is important (or youre just an audiophile).
If you dont mind buying piecemeal, I got the Samsung Spinpoint 1TB for about the same price as that Seagate (but I bought it on Amazon).
If you like the case go for it, but be warned that it has like zero cable management. The Haf 912 is about the same price and while its cable management isnt fantastic, it is present and is definitely serviceable.
I'll let someone else comment on the power supply as I can never remember which are the ones to look out for and I feel like the OCZ ModXStream is one of the ones to pass on.
Are there any standalone cable management solutions?
Better?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128520
Are you interested in dual gpu down the line?
Overclocking? (and if you are interested in OCing you'll need to step up to the 2500k)
If you're looking for a good deal, you might look at the open-box motherboards. I got my ASRock P67 PRO3 for $55 that way and I'm very happy with it.
I've only occasionally had it have issues. I've used it with CBS, ABC, and I'm sure a few others. Sometimes something doesn't click right and you have to back out of the browser and go back in, but I'd say 85% of the time it's flawless, and the issues it has are minor and quickly fixed. The last couple major software updates have improved in this area dramatically.
Also depending on your needs micro atx boards tend to be cheaper than full size, if you can live with a more compact layout with slightly fewer connectors/slots over all
Its a machine for streaming, programming, and SC2. So I'm guessing I'll really prize processor strength over GPU. If I overclock I'm guessing I should look for a stand-alone cooler? Is it fair to trim down the GPU any further, what is a worthwhile trade below that price point?
My needs aren't that much. Is there any more trouble in setting up a smaller board?
Processor: Intel Core i5-2300
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115076
Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-Z68M-D2H LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s Micro ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128523
Case:SILVERSTONE Black Aluminum / 0.8mm SECC Grandia Series GD05B micro-ATX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811163166
PSU: Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016
Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314
BD/DVD-Drive: LG Black 12X BD-R
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136226
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 ST3500413AS 500GB 7200 RPM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148701
I'm operating under specific case dimensions, so there's not much choice there (and I'll get it from Amazon since they have free shipping). He won't play any games on it so I'm avoiding the video card (although the case and MB do have room for one to be added if it's ever needed).
Also, I wouldn't go with a Seagate hard drive. Take a look at the Samsung F3. The Antec Neo Eco is similar in price to the BP550 but essentially set up for newer systems with more power on the 12V rail. Doesn't matter since you don't have discrete graphics, but it's a more versatile supply if you decide to keep using it in the future.
I've already got a PS3 with Playon running as a media server to it from my computer, so I can reliably stream most everything you can get that way. I'd like the flexibility of an actual computer hooked to my tv, the PS3's browser is shit. And frankly a nettop is probably my best solution, I just didn't know if they're cheaply made and I wanted to explore getting better hardware by building it myself (if it wouldn't cost way more). So to answer your questions:
1.No, got a copy.
2. No gaming.
3. No DVR.
4. No media files, I can steam stuff across from my desktop or use a flash drive to move things over if need be. Small hard drive is fine.
Cores are all around 30C
What is CPUTIN? This seems too high a temp, is it? What are possible fixes to this?
Since this was my first build there is a good chance I used too much thermal paste, should I pull it apart and refix the Hyper212+?
Thanks
Hmmmm
Mainly it's used for work and possibly media in future, neither of which will stress the system. However he doesn't upgrade his computer very often (this is replacing a 10 year old computer) so I want it to be able to handle anything in the future. For the power supply, I want a modular design because I'm working with a smaller case, so cutting back on on cables would be a plus.
Changed HDD to this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152305
I guess if you want to future proof it for a long time, an i5-2300 might be worth it, but honestly I'd save the money and go with the i3-2100. It's not like office products or movies are going to become more difficult to run in the future. If you want a modular PSU, sticking with the BP550 won't hurt.
Check RealTemp.
Well for an only internet streaming computer you can probably go pretty cheap. In fact any new computer you could get will probaby be good enough to stream internet tv.
For general longevity purposes I'd probably still suggest an i3 2100, or something similar. It gives you enough cpu to do most things for the forseable future, and the integrated video is powerful enough to give you 1080p for your hdtv.
Then you can pick up pretty much the cheapest motherboard you can find that uses the 1155 socket. The only thing to check for would be an hdmi connection. Other than that it's all preferences for what you want to add, but nothing will be necessary for tv playing. Maybe something like the Asrock H61M.
Low wattage psu like the Antec Earthwatts 380. You could bump this up if you think you might want better graphics in the future.
any HTPC case you want. Lianli and Silverstone tend to be higher quality, with a slightly higher price. I went with the Silverstone ML30b because it was the nicest one short enough to fit in my entertainment center.
Cheap hdd and 4-8gb of whatever memory fits you fancy and you should be set. Around $350-$400.
You can probably go cheaper with less future-proofing, but I'm not really sure what the good deals would be, and it's going to be deminishing returns pretty quickly.
Obviously, an SSD is pretty expensive, but even a pretty basic 60ish GB SATA II model would provide enough room for the OS, along with significant improvements in boot time and general system responsiveness. As long as you aren't storing any data locally, the lack of storage space is a non-issue.
If you really want to go with a net-top like system, you should look at a case like this, with a low power solution like Atom or Brazos.
Battle.net
I think I'm squared away on assembling this thing, but I'm not really sure what's going to happen once I hit power. My original understanding was that if you replace the mobo you have to reinstall the OS. Fair enough, however I've heard that I "might not have to." I'm not nearly smart enough to make use of that information; what determines whether or not I need to reinstall? Also, are there be activation issues that I should look out for?