Ugh, my onboard bluetooth stopped working on my p8z68-v pro. Was using it fine with motionjoy then no love. Uninstalled all drivers and motion joy and now the Atheros Win 7 driver install is failing. Anyone have success with this?
edit. I was persistent in installing the drivers and it started to work. I don't know I just am glad it is back.
Okay, having problems with my build. Currently have my P8P67 PRO mobo, my pair of mushkin 4gbs, i5-2500k, and Gigabyte 560ti plugged in. I'm getting the red MemOK! light, the green power light, all fans turn on. However, I'm not get any visuals when I test boot. Also, several seconds in the fans drop, the cpu led light flashes on for a second, then off, then on and fans cycle back up again. Any help?
If you haven't already, make sure all your power cords are plugged in. 24 pin power, 8 pin CPU power, and your PCIE power cables.
If you've done all that I'd try pulling one stick of ram and booting, if that doesn't work try with the other stick in. If you still get nothing you can try reseating the CPU and repeating all of the above.
edit: I don't suppose you have any other components around to swap in as test parts do you?
And fix'd! Pushing the DIMMs in until the locks click into place on their own is apparently not just a guideline that lets you know it's secure. It's what you're actually supposed to do.
It depends on your motherboard. I had a system that started off with very similar specs. The motherboard I used will support, after bios updating, all the way up to some phenom II x4s
At this point your GPU will also hold you back in a lot of games, although you could certainly drop in a new one of those as well.
It's this weird tradeoff between the relative ease of just buying a new rig versus, well, the cost obviously. But I suspect it's at the point where I should probably just upgrade wholesale regardless, really.
"I am not young enough to know everything." - Oscar Wilde
You're in luck if you decide to stick with that board.
That's almost the exact same board I've got in my amd rig, and with a bios flash that one will support up to a phenomIIx4 945. I've seen a few reports that while it isn't officially supported the board will run even the black edition pIIx4s as well.
That's an older PSU but it'll probably be able to handle a single card solution alright, especially if you're going the budget route. You could also look around for a nice quality 430-500, since they can be had for not a terrible amount.
Basically it comes down to how much you are willing/able to spend.
A p2x4 running at 3ghz or so won't bottleneck any low to midrange GPUs and should run you maybe a little more than an i3 costs right now, because they seem to be getting more scarce.
If you go the new build route you're looking at the cost of a motherboard and new ram on top of the CPU. I'm assuming a new PSU/GPU either way here.
Day of the Bear on
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facetiousa wit so dryit shits sandRegistered Userregular
edited February 2012
I have a decently-sized budget I guess. It's just a matter of saving up for however much I'm going to end up spending. Which is part of my dilemma, really: there's no reason I couldn't do it, it's just a matter of making the ultimate decision. Which I'm bad at.
Actually I guess that's a good time to ask, I could probably save up $2kish in a few months if I decided I wanted to buy a whole new rig. What kind of PC would that get me these days? I've never been up-to-date with PC specs as it is and I've fallen completely out of the loop since I bought this computer and stopped thinking about it entirely.
facetious on
"I am not young enough to know everything." - Oscar Wilde
AND BUILT! Installing starts later today! Need to work on my cord management. Corsair 400R was easy to work with considering it's my first time, so I definitely recommend it to any newer builder if you've got the budget. Also, modular PSU all the way. Thanks for the help in deciding parts and troubleshooting everyone and I should be posting from it tomorrow!
I'd check in the catalyst control center to see if it says CFX is enabled.
see thats where i am iffy. if i go to the crossfire tab, there is a check in the box next to enable crossfire, but the actual text looks like it is greyed sort of like it wasn't an option. however, i can select disable crossfire and apply that
if i do that, it won't let me reclick enable and apply
What I would do is fully uninstall the catalyst drivers, then do a reinstall of the latest version with both cards present in the system.
After doing this my cfx setup was happily enabled in everything
well crossfire was enabled. so i don't know why steam is saying it is not
so according to steam i don't have crossfire enabled while i took the CS:GA survey
i have this motherboard
ASRock P55 Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel
and my 6770 is in the blue slot on it, which is the primary as far as i can tell, and the crossfire logo pops up, so why doesn't it say i am crossfired?
is it something really stupid like, you don't have a crossfire bridge installed?
I have a decently-sized budget I guess. It's just a matter of saving up for however much I'm going to end up spending. Which is part of my dilemma, really: there's no reason I couldn't do it, it's just a matter of making the ultimate decision. Which I'm bad at.
Actually I guess that's a good time to ask, I could probably save up $2kish in a few months if I decided I wanted to buy a whole new rig. What kind of PC would that get me these days? I've never been up-to-date with PC specs as it is and I've fallen completely out of the loop since I bought this computer and stopped thinking about it entirely.
$2k is a massive budget. Typically, the highest budget we'll suggest (well, at least for the reasonably sane people; i.e. not Day of the Bear, Minor Incident, Alecthar, etc.) is ~$1.5k with the other peripherals, like monitor(s), additional to that. For just the tower components, anything much more than $1500 is really better saved up for future upgrades. If you save the extra $500 for a GPU upgrade next year, you'll extend the high-end lifespan of your system further than spending all of that money now.
Yeah, for pure gaming spending much more than that you start to run into a game of diminishing returns.
Unless you run other resource heavy tasks besides games on your machine, care significantly about running things on ULTRAMAX at resolutions higher than 1200p, or you really want to make sure your machine is noiseless, that's a very very good build there.
As a semi related note I'm not as big a fan of the gigabyte boards as I am asus so I went poking on newegg to make some recommendations, and has newegg just completely drawn down their stock of the p67/z68 asus boards in preparation for the ivy boards soon? Or is their search feature hating. Because I can't find anything other than open box versions of a number of the nice solid mid range asus boards.
But on that note it looks like if you're in the market for a p67/z68 board newegg has a ton of great open box asus boards right now.
so according to steam i don't have crossfire enabled while i took the CS:GA survey
i have this motherboard
ASRock P55 Pro LGA 1156 Intel P55 ATX Intel
and my 6770 is in the blue slot on it, which is the primary as far as i can tell, and the crossfire logo pops up, so why doesn't it say i am crossfired?
is it something really stupid like, you don't have a crossfire bridge installed?
unless it is somehow installed wrong, then no. i have a bridge on
I have an SSD, my raptor is all Steam, but I'm going to have to get another drive soon as I've just breached over 200gb from the folder alone... #1stworldproblems
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Almost time for another build! I've actually got a budget in mind as well, ~$1,200 before monitor and KBaM. Some questions before I commit:
-HDD: Heard that Seagate wasn't as good as Western Digital. Has this changed at all recently, or should I still avoid them at all cost?
-More HDD: Since I need one of those anyways, could I just grab an External and use that for whatever won't go on the SSD (until I grab a proper Internal HDD when prices normalize)?
-Video Card: I'm aiming for a single-card setup, probably nVidia. Is this one a good choice for cost vs long-term performance?
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Lord_SnotЖиву за выходныеAmerican ValhallaRegistered Userregular
Which'd you guys recommend, one of those corsair cooling blocks, or a really good air heatsink? I ask because this machine will probably be used in 30 degree temperatures, so I need good cooling.
proyebatGARY WAS HEREASH IS A LOSERRegistered Userregular
Who here has one of AMD's new cards? I need to know how long idle works. Can it be toggled through software/key combination/turning a monitor off? How quiet would you rank your computer in long idle?
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AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
Almost time for another build! I've actually got a budget in mind as well, ~$1,200 before monitor and KBaM. Some questions before I commit:
-HDD: Heard that Seagate wasn't as good as Western Digital. Has this changed at all recently, or should I still avoid them at all cost?
-More HDD: Since I need one of those anyways, could I just grab an External and use that for whatever won't go on the SSD (until I grab a proper Internal HDD when prices normalize)?
-Video Card: I'm aiming for a single-card setup, probably nVidia. Is this one a good choice for cost vs long-term performance?
In order:
Seagate's fine.
Just go external for now, yeah.
That's a very solid card, though with a $1200.00 you might be able to fit more horsepower in if you wanted to. If you have a rough list in mind, post that and we can take a look at what exactly you're looking to get for that kind of money.
Which'd you guys recommend, one of those corsair cooling blocks, or a really good air heatsink? I ask because this machine will probably be used in 30 degree temperatures, so I need good cooling.
Air cooling is your CPU is universally more cost-effective than closed loop water cooling, purely of terms of dollars spent vs. temps achieved. Closed-loop water cooling can potentially be quieter, it has some clearance advantages (your RAM can be as big as you'd like it to be) and some disadvantages (some cases have fan placement issues depending on the size of the radiator, the fans you use and how many of them are on the rad) and I'd say that the kits I prefer (Corsair H60, H80, H100) are probably easier to install than the majority of air coolers. If you're willing to spend H80/H100 money, you'll get very good cooling performance, but the same temps will cost you less if you're comfortable with air cooling.
Hey, if the water goes on the components that means I'm keeping them cool, right?
How it gets on there is no concern of mine
If you're using barb fittings, pick a colour and use silicone automotive heater hose. Compression fittings you can use shitty clear plastic tubing with.
First post from my new computer! Locating and installing the ASUS mobo and nVidia drivers was painlessly easy but Windows Update took forever to find, download, and then finally install all the updates. Also, my i5-2500k cpu is currently sitting at ~ 50C and doesn't seem to deviate from that temperature much and my mobo is at 30C. Should I be concerned?
Hey, if the water goes on the components that means I'm keeping them cool, right?
How it gets on there is no concern of mine
If you're using barb fittings, pick a colour and use silicone automotive heater hose. Compression fittings you can use shitty clear plastic tubing with.
What's the difference? If you're using barbs, you should be using clamps, so standard tubing should be fine.
Normally "green" drives have a lower spindle speed as compared to other drives, giving lower power consumption but also lower performance across the board.
They're a good pick for data drives that don't need high throughput, as the lowered cost, as well as less heat/power consumption are bonuses. As a system drive or an app/gaming drive I'd stick with something in the 7200rpm range, if you can't spring for an SSD.
why is it so hard to find a motherboard speaker to do post diagnostics? I had to order one on amazon after exhausting my area and I paid over twice the price of the speaker in shipping.
Posts
went with a 4 pack of 120's that are rated extra quiet.
edit. I was persistent in installing the drivers and it started to work. I don't know I just am glad it is back.
FFXIV - Milliardo Beoulve/Sargatanas
If you've done all that I'd try pulling one stick of ram and booting, if that doesn't work try with the other stick in. If you still get nothing you can try reseating the CPU and repeating all of the above.
edit: I don't suppose you have any other components around to swap in as test parts do you?
FFXIV - Milliardo Beoulve/Sargatanas
Glad it was a simple fix at least.
Okay got it:
motherboard: http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM2/M2NSLI/
Power supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171013
It's this weird tradeoff between the relative ease of just buying a new rig versus, well, the cost obviously. But I suspect it's at the point where I should probably just upgrade wholesale regardless, really.
Steam: Chagrin LoL: Bonhomie
That's almost the exact same board I've got in my amd rig, and with a bios flash that one will support up to a phenomIIx4 945. I've seen a few reports that while it isn't officially supported the board will run even the black edition pIIx4s as well.
That's an older PSU but it'll probably be able to handle a single card solution alright, especially if you're going the budget route. You could also look around for a nice quality 430-500, since they can be had for not a terrible amount.
Basically it comes down to how much you are willing/able to spend.
A p2x4 running at 3ghz or so won't bottleneck any low to midrange GPUs and should run you maybe a little more than an i3 costs right now, because they seem to be getting more scarce.
If you go the new build route you're looking at the cost of a motherboard and new ram on top of the CPU. I'm assuming a new PSU/GPU either way here.
Actually I guess that's a good time to ask, I could probably save up $2kish in a few months if I decided I wanted to buy a whole new rig. What kind of PC would that get me these days? I've never been up-to-date with PC specs as it is and I've fallen completely out of the loop since I bought this computer and stopped thinking about it entirely.
Steam: Chagrin LoL: Bonhomie
FFXIV - Milliardo Beoulve/Sargatanas
well crossfire was enabled. so i don't know why steam is saying it is not
is it something really stupid like, you don't have a crossfire bridge installed?
Path of Exile: snowcrash7
MTG Arena: Snow_Crash#34179
Battle.net: Snowcrash#1873
$2k is a massive budget. Typically, the highest budget we'll suggest (well, at least for the reasonably sane people; i.e. not Day of the Bear, Minor Incident, Alecthar, etc.) is ~$1.5k with the other peripherals, like monitor(s), additional to that. For just the tower components, anything much more than $1500 is really better saved up for future upgrades. If you save the extra $500 for a GPU upgrade next year, you'll extend the high-end lifespan of your system further than spending all of that money now.
Here's a monster of a build for ~$1500 (with $70 in MIRs):
CPU: i5-2500k
HSF: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
GPU: GIGABYTE GV-R795WF3-3GD Radeon HD 7950 3GB
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM
SSD: OCZ Agility 3 120GB
RAM: G.SKILL Ares 2 x 4GB DDR3 1600
MoBo: GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3
PSU: OCZ ZT Series 650W Fully-Modular 80PLUS Bronze
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 400R
OS: Win7 Home Premium 64-bit
Unless you run other resource heavy tasks besides games on your machine, care significantly about running things on ULTRAMAX at resolutions higher than 1200p, or you really want to make sure your machine is noiseless, that's a very very good build there.
As a semi related note I'm not as big a fan of the gigabyte boards as I am asus so I went poking on newegg to make some recommendations, and has newegg just completely drawn down their stock of the p67/z68 asus boards in preparation for the ivy boards soon? Or is their search feature hating. Because I can't find anything other than open box versions of a number of the nice solid mid range asus boards.
But on that note it looks like if you're in the market for a p67/z68 board newegg has a ton of great open box asus boards right now.
But I have absolutely no reason to grab a new 1155 board right now.
That sounds like reason enough to me.
unless it is somehow installed wrong, then no. i have a bridge on
Minor you are not helping!
anything i should diable in win 7?
My parts should be here wednesday!
I bookmarked these the previous time someone answered this question.
http://www.overclock.net/t/664738/how-to-setup-ssd-boot-drive-with-secondary-hard-disc-optimization
http://www.overclock.net/t/1156654/seans-windows-7-install-guide-optimization-for-ssds-hdds
You have problems, man. I'm going to enjoy the inevitable shot of the bottom filled with distilled water, though.
Battle.net
"and that's why we put clamps on our barbs, DotB..."
Battle.net
How it gets on there is no concern of mine
I'm not sure I trust myself. :P
But yeah, thanks for the advice, guys. I got the information I needed to make an informed decision. (I am bad at decisions!)
Steam: Chagrin LoL: Bonhomie
-HDD: Heard that Seagate wasn't as good as Western Digital. Has this changed at all recently, or should I still avoid them at all cost?
-More HDD: Since I need one of those anyways, could I just grab an External and use that for whatever won't go on the SSD (until I grab a proper Internal HDD when prices normalize)?
-Video Card: I'm aiming for a single-card setup, probably nVidia. Is this one a good choice for cost vs long-term performance?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
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In order:
Seagate's fine.
Just go external for now, yeah.
That's a very solid card, though with a $1200.00 you might be able to fit more horsepower in if you wanted to. If you have a rough list in mind, post that and we can take a look at what exactly you're looking to get for that kind of money.
Air cooling is your CPU is universally more cost-effective than closed loop water cooling, purely of terms of dollars spent vs. temps achieved. Closed-loop water cooling can potentially be quieter, it has some clearance advantages (your RAM can be as big as you'd like it to be) and some disadvantages (some cases have fan placement issues depending on the size of the radiator, the fans you use and how many of them are on the rad) and I'd say that the kits I prefer (Corsair H60, H80, H100) are probably easier to install than the majority of air coolers. If you're willing to spend H80/H100 money, you'll get very good cooling performance, but the same temps will cost you less if you're comfortable with air cooling.
Battle.net
If you're using barb fittings, pick a colour and use silicone automotive heater hose. Compression fittings you can use shitty clear plastic tubing with.
FFXIV - Milliardo Beoulve/Sargatanas
What's the difference? If you're using barbs, you should be using clamps, so standard tubing should be fine.
Battle.net
They're a good pick for data drives that don't need high throughput, as the lowered cost, as well as less heat/power consumption are bonuses. As a system drive or an app/gaming drive I'd stick with something in the 7200rpm range, if you can't spring for an SSD.