From what I've read online im going with the i5 2500k, its just had such good reviews.
Im not into overclocking, I mostly run stuff at stock levels. As for GPU I was under the impression from a few articles that Nvidia currently hold the crown in upper end cards or is that only with the current flagships? As such the 570 GTX was looking nice. Again im open to opinion, im not a fan boy for either camp.
If you're not OCing, spnding more the the k-chip is a complete waste. And if you're not going to OC the 2500k, it's a point of contention as to whether it's even worth getting an i5 as opposed to an i3. But before you make a decision, you should know that OCing the 2500k is literally as simple as changing a single setting in your BIOS. It won't be the absolute best or most efficient OC, but you can easily push it a bit north of 4GHz that way. And all you need is a $27 Coolermaster Hyper 212+.
See a single setting in BIOS I wouldn't have an issue with, its constant voltage tweaking and temp monitoring I have no time for. OK so based on that advice what mobo would you recommend with that CPU and heat sink?
With my Asus, I can literally hit turbo from bios and it OCs it. I didn't do it that way, but I'm pretty sure most vendors now have a quick/easy OC option in the bios to push out like 3.8-4.0 on air, which is completely safe.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
From what I've read online im going with the i5 2500k, its just had such good reviews.
Im not into overclocking, I mostly run stuff at stock levels. As for GPU I was under the impression from a few articles that Nvidia currently hold the crown in upper end cards or is that only with the current flagships? As such the 570 GTX was looking nice. Again im open to opinion, im not a fan boy for either camp.
If you're not OCing, spnding more the the k-chip is a complete waste. And if you're not going to OC the 2500k, it's a point of contention as to whether it's even worth getting an i5 as opposed to an i3. But before you make a decision, you should know that OCing the 2500k is literally as simple as changing a single setting in your BIOS. It won't be the absolute best or most efficient OC, but you can easily push it a bit north of 4GHz that way. And all you need is a $27 Coolermaster Hyper 212+.
See a single setting in BIOS I wouldn't have an issue with, its constant voltage tweaking and temp monitoring I have no time for. OK so based on that advice what mobo would you recommend with that CPU and heat sink?
With my Asus, I can literally hit turbo from bios and it OCs it. I didn't do it that way, but I'm pretty sure most vendors now have a quick/easy OC option in the bios to push out like 3.8-4.0 on air, which is completely safe.
On my Gigabyte board, it was just a matter of going into the BIOS and changing a dropdown menu from "3.5" to "4.6" and saving. Instant overclock!
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
From what I've read online im going with the i5 2500k, its just had such good reviews.
Im not into overclocking, I mostly run stuff at stock levels. As for GPU I was under the impression from a few articles that Nvidia currently hold the crown in upper end cards or is that only with the current flagships? As such the 570 GTX was looking nice. Again im open to opinion, im not a fan boy for either camp.
If you're not OCing, spnding more the the k-chip is a complete waste. And if you're not going to OC the 2500k, it's a point of contention as to whether it's even worth getting an i5 as opposed to an i3. But before you make a decision, you should know that OCing the 2500k is literally as simple as changing a single setting in your BIOS. It won't be the absolute best or most efficient OC, but you can easily push it a bit north of 4GHz that way. And all you need is a $27 Coolermaster Hyper 212+.
See a single setting in BIOS I wouldn't have an issue with, its constant voltage tweaking and temp monitoring I have no time for. OK so based on that advice what mobo would you recommend with that CPU and heat sink?
With my Asus, I can literally hit turbo from bios and it OCs it. I didn't do it that way, but I'm pretty sure most vendors now have a quick/easy OC option in the bios to push out like 3.8-4.0 on air, which is completely safe.
On my Gigabyte board, it was just a matter of going into the BIOS and changing a dropdown menu from "3.5" to "4.6" and saving. Instant overclock!
Same (on an ASRock board). Although I only went to 4.0 Ghz.
From what I've read online im going with the i5 2500k, its just had such good reviews.
Im not into overclocking, I mostly run stuff at stock levels. As for GPU I was under the impression from a few articles that Nvidia currently hold the crown in upper end cards or is that only with the current flagships? As such the 570 GTX was looking nice. Again im open to opinion, im not a fan boy for either camp.
If you're not OCing, spnding more the the k-chip is a complete waste. And if you're not going to OC the 2500k, it's a point of contention as to whether it's even worth getting an i5 as opposed to an i3. But before you make a decision, you should know that OCing the 2500k is literally as simple as changing a single setting in your BIOS. It won't be the absolute best or most efficient OC, but you can easily push it a bit north of 4GHz that way. And all you need is a $27 Coolermaster Hyper 212+.
See a single setting in BIOS I wouldn't have an issue with, its constant voltage tweaking and temp monitoring I have no time for. OK so based on that advice what mobo would you recommend with that CPU and heat sink?
If you let us know what country you're in, it'll make it easier to recommend something. But generally, the cheapest (~$100USD) decently OCing boards are from ASRock (either the P67 Pro (non-SE), or Z68 Extreme3 Gen3). Then there are a bunch of good choices from ASRock, ASUS, and Gigabyte in the $160-$190USD range.
So how about those new Radeon GPUs out today! The 7850 coming in at a little bit worse than the 6950 and the 7870 a little bit better than the 6970 is a bit disappointing. I might just wait on Kepler, when are we expecting information on it to come out?
most of the reviews I've checked so far seem to have the 7870 on par or ahead of the 570 and solidly beating the 6970, while still using significantly less power. Toss in gcn's great overclocking and it seems like a excellent card for it's price.
Waiting for real numbers and pricing on kepler is still a good idea but right now amd has got some great cards out.
I am hoping this is a good place to ask about an external Hard Drive. I had an HP PC from 06 or 07 that crapped out on me but I don't think the internal hard drive was bad, and I've since moved to a series of MacBooks.
Anyway, I have this old WD3200 Caviar SE Serial ATA HD and I'd like to take a look at what is on it. I have this little Coolmax HDD to USB converter that I can connect to the Mac, but I have no idea if I can access the drive or if I could, how to go about doing it. Does anyone know if this is possible? Any help is appreciated dudemeisters!
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Hmm, if the numbers look good when more reviews come out, I may up my 6870 to 7870, because the price is pretty good. I've long ago stopped buying 400+ dollar enthusiast cards. I am staunchly in the sub-300 middle ground now.
From what I've read online im going with the i5 2 500k, its just had such good reviews.
Im not into overclocking, I mostly run stuff at stock levels. As for GPU I was under the impression from a few articles that Nvidia currently hold the crown in upper end cards or is that only with the current flagships? As such the 570 GTX was looking nice. Again im open to opinion, im not a fan boy for either camp.
If you're not OCing, spnding more the the k-chip is a complete waste. And if you're not going to OC the 2500k, it's a point of contention as to whether it's even worth getting an i5 as opposed to an i3. But before you make a decision, you should know that OCing the 2500k is literally as simple as changing a single setting in your BIOS. It won't be the absolute best or most efficient OC, but you can easily push it a bit north of 4GHz that way. And all you need is a $27 Coolermaster Hyper 212+.
See a single setting in BIOS I wouldn't have an issue with, its constant voltage tweaking and temp monitoring I have no time for. OK so based on that advice what mobo would you recommend with that CPU and heat sink?
If you let us know what country you're in, it'll make it easier to recommend something. But generally, the cheapest (~$100USD) decently OCing boards are from ASRock (either the P67 Pro (non-SE), or Z68 Extreme3 Gen3). Then there are a bunch of good choices from ASRock, ASUS, and Gigabyte in the $160-$190USD range.
if I have a big ass heat sink and I'm not sure if I have a removeable motherboard tray (let's say I don't) then what is the customary order of operations?
Should I assemble the entire mainboard first (minus GPU) and then drop it in the case, or should I put the motherboard in the case and slap parts in from there?
it's way easier if you install the ram/cpu/heatsink onto the motherboard first than install that into the case. trying to get the little screws/levers/whatever the heatsink uses around the cpu while it's in a case can be very hard.
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
edited March 2012
Awww yeah. Look what the UPS man brought me.
It feels great. I'm more thrown off than I expected to be by the lack of key legends, but I'm already adapting to it pretty quickly. I'm only really finding myself slowing down now when I have to input passwords, because most of my passwords are over 10 characters and involve fairly random digits. I'm sure I'll get used to it, though.
As far as the feel, it's amazing. Cherry Browns. They've got a bit of the feel of blues without the loud clacking (which keeps the wife happy). More satisfying to type on than reds. I also added key dampeners, which mute the sound from bottoming out, and give it a softer feel at the bottom of each keystroke.
So, so happy with this keyboard.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
if I have a big ass heat sink and I'm not sure if I have a removeable motherboard tray (let's say I don't) then what is the customary order of operations?
Should I assemble the entire mainboard first (minus GPU) and then drop it in the case, or should I put the motherboard in the case and slap parts in from there?
I like to put everything on before I put the mobo into the case. Well, except PCI cards, of course. But CPU, RAM, and heatsinks all go on first while the mobo is flat on my kitchen table where it's muuuuch easier to work with.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
@Jasconius what kind of cooler do you have? All the tower style air coolers that I've installed you can and should install the backplate with the board outside the case, and then the actual heatsink can be dropped in and screwed in place once everything is installed and plugged in.
if installing the cooler outside the case won't obscure any points where you need to connect cables when everything is in the case it's the easiest method
I don't know why, but not having keys specifically marked drives me nuts. But at the same time, I have no need for them, so...that thought has come full circle now.
That is a wonderful looking keyboard, Filco?
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I don't know why, but not having keys specifically marked drives me nuts. But at the same time, I have no need for them, so...that thought has come full circle now.
It's a dude in California that makes them. You can totally customize every single key. Color, printing, everything. With your choice of Cherry MX switches.
minor incident on
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
I don't know why, but not having keys specifically marked drives me nuts. But at the same time, I have no need for them, so...that thought has come full circle now.
It's a dude in California that makes them. You can totally customize every single key. Color, printing, everything. With your choice of Cherry MX switches.
I thought it was a WASD at first, but I thought they all had letting on the outward facing side of the keys. Neato.
The grid on the thumb side has the 1234567890-= buttons, which are your hotkeys in an MMO. It's a handy little thing.
I've been debating one of those for quite a while now, what's your overall opinion?
I like it a lot, actually. I basically can't imagine playing an MMO without one. Super handy for Starcraft, too, but it really shines in SW:TOR. The thumbgrid is perfectly laid out, so after the first couple of days, I almost never hit the wrong button.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Hey, quick question for anyone else running crossfire with 3+ displays connected. Do you ever have an issue where when cold booting your displays never initialize?
Ever since I started running CFX occasionally a cold boot fails to get the display to initialize and everything stays shut off. Unplugging one of my displays and rebooting always fixes it, and I can plug it back in and triple display works fine once things have started rolling. This never happens from sleep either, just cold boots.
I've got one display running on the miniDP, one on the HDMI and one in the dual link DVI. Had this setup on my old single 6950 with no problems ever, and when I was just running a single 7970 I had no issues.
Day of the Bear on
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I only have one display, but it's miniDP, and It sometimes does that on a cold boot. CFX'd 6950s.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Well my miniDP is my primary display. Might be a CFX/DP issue of some kind?
It's not a massive issue as it's pretty easy to fix it. I was just wondering if there was some setting I could tweak somewhere to get it to function right all the time.
DP seems to be a kind of finicky connection in a lot of ways though so if it's just the nature of the beast I'll live with it.
So its stretching my budget a little (I'll put in some overtime :P) but I think I might go for a GTX580, whats peoples opinion on it? Is there an AMD choice at the same level I should consider?
Why get the 975 for $160 when the 980 is ten bucks cheaper, and is 3.7 instead of 3.6 MHz?
I think you're looking at the 980 OEM and the 975 retail. I'm not 100% positive, but I think the only difference is that the OEM doesn't have a stock HSF, which doesn't matter at all if you're already getting an aftermarket one. And really, I'm not even sure the 100MHz difference between the 980 and 975 is worth it for $10. I doubt you'd ever notice the difference.
Yep, those are the ones I'm looking at. I don't completely understand what you're saying. Which of those should I go for?
@Prime
650W is more than enough. As far as a graphics card goes, pick a price range you're comfortable and then get the card in that price range. So, if you can afford the 580 you might as well. Although I'm not sure if it's better to go with something from the 7900 series over it.
- EVGA GTX 580 SuperClocked 1536MB GDDR5 DVI HDMI PCI-E Graphics Card OR
- Gigabyte GTX 570 OC Windforce3X 1280MB GDDR5 DVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card
Comes in at £870 with the GTX580 or £770 with the GTX570. Would the 650W be suitable while doing the basic i5 OC brought up on the last page?
edit: please ignore the lack of HDD, dont require one.
I have the GTX580 Superlocked...love it.
Runs BF3 @ 1080P on Ultra settings.
I wanted to wait until Kepler came out and they dropped the price on the 580, but by then...I would have missed out on many mans being shot & shenanigans.
Once Kepler does come out and prices dropped, will probably pick up another 580 for SLI.
@Prime You should consider a 7870 over a 580 or 570. The 7800 series was just released -- the 7870 is solidly ahead of the 580 in benchmarks for less dough. The 7850 is on par with the 570, for about $60-$70 less.
Man I wish I'd bought a 212+ instead of this corsair H70. It's not like I needed the extra cooling from the water setup and dear god I just took the opportunity to clean the H70 while I was dismantling my build to get my mobo out. So much dust trapped between those fans and the radiator.
Shogun asked me if I wanted to disable Aero, as did Cliffs of Dover. I just told them not to and moved on, maybe I'll go back and take a look at it while it's running though.
listen buddy I don't give a damn what you do with your Aero. In other news a mate of mine purchased a 590 GTX and is not pleased with the performance.
Posts
With my Asus, I can literally hit turbo from bios and it OCs it. I didn't do it that way, but I'm pretty sure most vendors now have a quick/easy OC option in the bios to push out like 3.8-4.0 on air, which is completely safe.
On my Gigabyte board, it was just a matter of going into the BIOS and changing a dropdown menu from "3.5" to "4.6" and saving. Instant overclock!
Same (on an ASRock board). Although I only went to 4.0 Ghz.
If you let us know what country you're in, it'll make it easier to recommend something. But generally, the cheapest (~$100USD) decently OCing boards are from ASRock (either the P67 Pro (non-SE), or Z68 Extreme3 Gen3). Then there are a bunch of good choices from ASRock, ASUS, and Gigabyte in the $160-$190USD range.
Waiting for real numbers and pricing on kepler is still a good idea but right now amd has got some great cards out.
Anyway, I have this old WD3200 Caviar SE Serial ATA HD and I'd like to take a look at what is on it. I have this little Coolmax HDD to USB converter that I can connect to the Mac, but I have no idea if I can access the drive or if I could, how to go about doing it. Does anyone know if this is possible? Any help is appreciated dudemeisters!
The UK, thank you kindly *tips hat*
if I have a big ass heat sink and I'm not sure if I have a removeable motherboard tray (let's say I don't) then what is the customary order of operations?
Should I assemble the entire mainboard first (minus GPU) and then drop it in the case, or should I put the motherboard in the case and slap parts in from there?
It feels great. I'm more thrown off than I expected to be by the lack of key legends, but I'm already adapting to it pretty quickly. I'm only really finding myself slowing down now when I have to input passwords, because most of my passwords are over 10 characters and involve fairly random digits. I'm sure I'll get used to it, though.
As far as the feel, it's amazing. Cherry Browns. They've got a bit of the feel of blues without the loud clacking (which keeps the wife happy). More satisfying to type on than reds. I also added key dampeners, which mute the sound from bottoming out, and give it a softer feel at the bottom of each keystroke.
So, so happy with this keyboard.
I like to put everything on before I put the mobo into the case. Well, except PCI cards, of course. But CPU, RAM, and heatsinks all go on first while the mobo is flat on my kitchen table where it's muuuuch easier to work with.
@Jasconius what kind of cooler do you have? All the tower style air coolers that I've installed you can and should install the backplate with the board outside the case, and then the actual heatsink can be dropped in and screwed in place once everything is installed and plugged in.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103100
That is a wonderful looking keyboard, Filco?
Nope. I went one from (much easier to actually buy) WASD Keyboards. http://www.wasdkeyboards.com
It's a dude in California that makes them. You can totally customize every single key. Color, printing, everything. With your choice of Cherry MX switches.
Because it's a Razer Naga.
This one:
The grid on the thumb side has the 1234567890-= buttons, which are your hotkeys in an MMO. It's a handy little thing.
I thought it was a WASD at first, but I thought they all had letting on the outward facing side of the keys. Neato.
I've been debating one of those for quite a while now, what's your overall opinion?
I like it a lot, actually. I basically can't imagine playing an MMO without one. Super handy for Starcraft, too, but it really shines in SW:TOR. The thumbgrid is perfectly laid out, so after the first couple of days, I almost never hit the wrong button.
Ever since I started running CFX occasionally a cold boot fails to get the display to initialize and everything stays shut off. Unplugging one of my displays and rebooting always fixes it, and I can plug it back in and triple display works fine once things have started rolling. This never happens from sleep either, just cold boots.
I've got one display running on the miniDP, one on the HDMI and one in the dual link DVI. Had this setup on my old single 6950 with no problems ever, and when I was just running a single 7970 I had no issues.
It's not a massive issue as it's pretty easy to fix it. I was just wondering if there was some setting I could tweak somewhere to get it to function right all the time.
DP seems to be a kind of finicky connection in a lot of ways though so if it's just the nature of the beast I'll live with it.
Yep, those are the ones I'm looking at. I don't completely understand what you're saying. Which of those should I go for?
- Intel Core i5 2500K 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache OEM Processor
- Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev 2 Socket 775, 1156, 1155, 1366, AM2, AM3 Heatpipe CPU Cooler
- Asus SABERTOOTH P67 R3 P67 Socket 1155 8 Channel HD Audio ATX Motherboard
- Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz CL9 1.5V Non-ECC Unbuffered
- CM Storm Enforcer Case
- Coolermaster 650W GX PSU
- EVGA GTX 580 SuperClocked 1536MB GDDR5 DVI HDMI PCI-E Graphics Card
OR
- Gigabyte GTX 570 OC Windforce3X 1280MB GDDR5 DVI HDMI DisplayPort PCI-E Graphics Card
Comes in at £870 with the GTX580 or £770 with the GTX570. Would the 650W be suitable while doing the basic i5 OC brought up on the last page?
edit: please ignore the lack of HDD, dont require one.
650W is more than enough. As far as a graphics card goes, pick a price range you're comfortable and then get the card in that price range. So, if you can afford the 580 you might as well. Although I'm not sure if it's better to go with something from the 7900 series over it.
I have the GTX580 Superlocked...love it.
Runs BF3 @ 1080P on Ultra settings.
I wanted to wait until Kepler came out and they dropped the price on the 580, but by then...I would have missed out on many mans being shot & shenanigans.
Once Kepler does come out and prices dropped, will probably pick up another 580 for SLI.
Path of Exile: snowcrash7
MTG Arena: Snow_Crash#34179
Battle.net: Snowcrash#1873
listen buddy I don't give a damn what you do with your Aero. In other news a mate of mine purchased a 590 GTX and is not pleased with the performance.
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