I've just spent over $500 on brake parts. Unfortunately, I have to buy the stupid expensive rotors or else they'll warp. I did my brakes last year, because the dealership which I took my car to get service, tightened the wheels so tight that my caliper stopped working, so I had to redo the front brakes. Since it was an emergency, I went and used the $30 Auto Zone rotors, which warped after a week. Since I do not want the rotors to warp in another week, the $170 ones had to be purchased for each (front) wheel. And then, of course, the most awesomest pads to go with it.
Still sucks though.
Though, since so much money was spent, I was considering getting the stainless steel lines and doing that while I'm there...
You probably could have gone with rotors in the $150+ per axle range without having much problem. $170 per wheel seems a bit excessive unless you went with some slotted/drilled rotors.
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
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L Ron HowardThe duckMinnesotaRegistered Userregular
I've just spent over $500 on brake parts. Unfortunately, I have to buy the stupid expensive rotors or else they'll warp. I did my brakes last year, because the dealership which I took my car to get service, tightened the wheels so tight that my caliper stopped working, so I had to redo the front brakes. Since it was an emergency, I went and used the $30 Auto Zone rotors, which warped after a week. Since I do not want the rotors to warp in another week, the $170 ones had to be purchased for each (front) wheel. And then, of course, the most awesomest pads to go with it.
Still sucks though.
Though, since so much money was spent, I was considering getting the stainless steel lines and doing that while I'm there...
You probably could have gone with rotors in the $150+ per axle range without having much problem. $170 per wheel seems a bit excessive unless you went with some slotted/drilled rotors.
The expensive ones are cryogenically frozen, and highly recommended by others. The car, a heavy-ass Lincoln Mk VIII, is known to warp rotors because of its weight.
And what do you mean by $150 per axle? There are the two drive axles on the rear, and there are none in the front? Sorry, I guess I don't understand.
Replacing the PCV seems to have stopped the rough/oscillating idle, but it hasn't stopped the hesitation and stutter under acceleration. Back to the drawing board...
Yes, replacing the PCV valve is stupidly easy to replace on most cars.
Howard: I thought rotors usually came in pairs and this is referred to as "per axel." So you buy a pair for the front axle and you buy a pair for the rear axle. When I said "per axle" I meant that 2 rotors cost $150.
In other news on Sunday night a tire on my subaru decided to eat itself after I got a nail in it.
CommunistCow on
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
So consensus on various VW forums is the stuttering issue is a failing O2 sensor. The car has two though, about $200 for both. Having the CEL codes read though came back as cylinder misfires, which point to the plugs/coil packs, and 4 of each plus the plug socket is around $160. I'm going to go with the code solution first.
So consensus on various VW forums is the stuttering issue is a failing O2 sensor. The car has two though, about $200 for both. Having the CEL codes read though came back as cylinder misfires, which point to the plugs/coil packs, and 4 of each plus the plug socket is around $160. I'm going to go with the code solution first.
yeah, definitely attack the codes first
cars are pretty smart at diagnosing themselves
also make sure you aren't getting a vacuum leak, I've seen that throw misfire codes before
So consensus on various VW forums is the stuttering issue is a failing O2 sensor. The car has two though, about $200 for both. Having the CEL codes read though came back as cylinder misfires, which point to the plugs/coil packs, and 4 of each plus the plug socket is around $160. I'm going to go with the code solution first.
yeah, definitely attack the codes first
cars are pretty smart at diagnosing themselves
also make sure you aren't getting a vacuum leak, I've seen that throw misfire codes before
I did the ghetto check. Start the car, take the oil cap off, hold my hand over the opening, feel for suction and there was. If changing the plugs doesn't work I'll get it checked for real.
Were they runflats or did you just get lucky saving the rim?
They weren't run flats and this happened at 55-60mph. The inside of the rim did sustain a dent which was noticable when they were balancing the new wheel. I haven't noticed any shaking or anything like that, but I might swap the rim out with an extra I have lying around.
I did the ghetto check. Start the car, take the oil cap off, hold my hand over the opening, feel for suction and there was. If changing the plugs doesn't work I'll get it checked for real.
That is pretty ghetto and pretty damn useless. You can have a vacuum leak and still have some suction. The real way to test is to have some fuel injector / carb cleaner and spray that at the vacuum lines. If the engine idles up at some point you may have found a leak.
I've also heard of a similar way of testing this using water where if water gets sucked into a vacuum line the idle will drop some. I've never tried this method as I'm not sure if getting small amounts of water in the engine would cause a problem. I'm guessing it wouldn't in such low amounts, but I would rather play it safe.
CommunistCow on
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
Last week I nailed a speed bump going too fast (not for the zone, just for my clearance and the car), driving while sleep deprived isn't always an awesome idea.
I broke my o2 sensor when my exhaust hit the under belly of my car, put 2 holes in my muffler (which was crap anyways... magnaflow on a civic) broke 3 hangars on the exhaust, and cracked my headers...
400 dollars later I have a whole new set-up, but now I sound like a shitty ricer... I'm trying to find where a vibration is coming from, at first it was the baffle, between 2-5krpms the baffle would rattle like mad and was louder than the exhaust itself. Removed the baffle, now it's much more silent between 2-5 but way louder from 5-10. I'm still getting a weird vibration when at 40-70% throttle too... it is driving me crazy.
I'll be buying a new muffler after PAX... but I thought I'd rant in the car thread.
Also it only took me 14 miles to put a scrape on my headers... went from a 1.5in collector to 2.5in collector and didn't think about the clearance difference
Honda world problems
Bendery It Like Beckham on
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SixCaches Tweets in the mainframe cyberhexRegistered Userregular
I'm actually ordering o2 sensors and a new fuel filter that I'll put in next week. I've been getting lean codes off and on for a while now and it's past the point where I should have replaced them. I'm only going to do the pre-cats since the post cats are even more expensive and won't affect how the car runs at all.
can you feel the struggle within?
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L Ron HowardThe duckMinnesotaRegistered Userregular
Speaking of weekend work. I get to install all the brakes I just purchased. Yay.
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WulfDisciple of TzeentchThe Void... (New Jersey)Registered Userregular
edited June 2012
Right, so I got my baby up and running again,
and I want to start doing some light improvement work. I'm looking for some lift ramps to get the front end up so I can remove the seats and clean them, get the runners working again. Anyone have recommendations?
The saga continues. Got the new plugs and coilpacks in, went to replace them and... oil in the plug channel. Oh look, valve cover gasket is leaking in the #1 cylinder. Something that would've been nice to know a week ago when I was ordering the plugs and coilpacks... It's only a $10 part, but I get to wait another 3-4 days for it to get to me.
and I want to start doing some light improvement work. I'm looking for some lift ramps to get the front end up so I can remove the seats and clean them, get the runners working again. Anyone have recommendations?
Recommendations on light improvement work? Depends are you looking for cosmetic stuff or basic maintenance stuff?
CommunistCow on
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
For lift ramps, measure the ground clearance at the front bumper shroud, then the distance from the shroud to where the tire meets the ground. As long as the ramp meets the weight requirement (got a set of 4000 pound ramps for about $30 from Advance Auto), the only thing you have to check is that your tire will be on the ramp before the shroud will hit it.
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WulfDisciple of TzeentchThe Void... (New Jersey)Registered Userregular
For lift ramps, measure the ground clearance at the front bumper shroud, then the distance from the shroud to where the tire meets the ground. As long as the ramp meets the weight requirement (got a set of 4000 pound ramps for about $30 from Advance Auto), the only thing you have to check is that your tire will be on the ramp before the shroud will hit it.
Cool, I'll have to bring it by Advance and try some out there.
Recommendations on light improvement work? Depends are you looking for cosmetic stuff or basic maintenance stuff?
Well, I was going to start with the seats, at least removing the rust from the runners and freeing them up to move again, replace the foam and leather when I have the $$$. I do have a new, non-cracked dash board, but I would need to buy another console to replace the original, unless there is a good way to repair cracked vinyl?
Rented a new Nissan Altima and drove it 1500 miles. It wasn't too bad. Terrible in the twisties...way too much body roll. Decent power up hills. Overall, not a bad vehicle.
For lift ramps, measure the ground clearance at the front bumper shroud, then the distance from the shroud to where the tire meets the ground. As long as the ramp meets the weight requirement (got a set of 4000 pound ramps for about $30 from Advance Auto), the only thing you have to check is that your tire will be on the ramp before the shroud will hit it.
Cool, I'll have to bring it by Advance and try some out there.
Recommendations on light improvement work? Depends are you looking for cosmetic stuff or basic maintenance stuff?
Well, I was going to start with the seats, at least removing the rust from the runners and freeing them up to move again, replace the foam and leather when I have the $$$. I do have a new, non-cracked dash board, but I would need to buy another console to replace the original, unless there is a good way to repair cracked vinyl?
If they're rusted up to the point of not moving, there's some severe metal damage there. Even if you do manage to refurb the metal bits, you'll still need to buy new foam, new cloth/vinyl/leather, and put in the time to do it all. You may end up cheaper in the long run just finding some used seats in good shape, and simply unbolting your skanky ones and bolting in the good ones.
Also, Rhino Ramps. Can't recommend them enough. Unless you're running bottomed out coilovers, they should do the job just fine. And if you are, you can build some ghetto ramp extensions out of about $20 worth of lumber from Lowe's
If they're rusted up to the point of not moving, there's some severe metal damage there. Even if you do manage to refurb the metal bits, you'll still need to buy new foam, new cloth/vinyl/leather, and put in the time to do it all. You may end up cheaper in the long run just finding some used seats in good shape, and simply unbolting your skanky ones and bolting in the good ones.
Also, Rhino Ramps. Can't recommend them enough. Unless you're running bottomed out coilovers, they should do the job just fine. And if you are, you can build some ghetto ramp extensions out of about $20 worth of lumber from Lowe's
Yeah, looks like the driver side seat will just needed a little fresh grease to get it sliding, as it did start moving with a little grunt work (though I haven't unbolted them quite yet, saving that fun for the weekend!). The Passenger side was good and froze up though, had to use an axe as a lever to shove it forward enough to replace the battery . Oh and yes, the Rhino Ramps were the ones I ended up settling on when I tried a few out, so +1 to that suggestion
And a long time ago, anyone over 5'10" couldn't fit in one.
Heh, I don't fit in a BRZ (and probably an FRS) and I'm only 6'2". Sadtrombone.
I'm 6'2" and I fit fine in my 1985 rx7. I actually have a friend who is 6'4" and fits fine in the same car. The BRZ/FRS is actually bigger inside than those. I did have a bit of a problem fitting in an S2000 due to the seat not being able to move back far enough, but the BRZ is bigger inside than that.
I have a feeling that the FR-S/BRZ will have about the same amount of room as a 240sx. Which is basically just enough room for me to fit in it as long as I dont have to have anyone sitting behind me (Im 6'3-6'4). I sort of want one, but I also sort of want AWD.
I have a feeling that the FR-S/BRZ will have about the same amount of room as a 240sx. Which is basically just enough room for me to fit in it as long as I dont have to have anyone sitting behind me (Im 6'3-6'4). I sort of want one, but I also sort of want AWD.
Then you should, sort of, go with a WRX.
CommunistCow on
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
I have a feeling that the FR-S/BRZ will have about the same amount of room as a 240sx. Which is basically just enough room for me to fit in it as long as I dont have to have anyone sitting behind me (Im 6'3-6'4). I sort of want one, but I also sort of want AWD.
Then you should, sort of, go with a WRX.
Yeah, for a long time I've preferred the Evo X over the current WRX/STi, but having recently learned the STi comes with a 6 speed it basically satisfies all of my desires so...
I really wouldn't put the FR-S/BRZ in the same range as the Evo or the STi. It might compete with the WRX performance wise, but I doubt it. I suggested the WRX just because it is about the same price point.
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
Posts
You probably could have gone with rotors in the $150+ per axle range without having much problem. $170 per wheel seems a bit excessive unless you went with some slotted/drilled rotors.
The expensive ones are cryogenically frozen, and highly recommended by others. The car, a heavy-ass Lincoln Mk VIII, is known to warp rotors because of its weight.
And what do you mean by $150 per axle? There are the two drive axles on the rear, and there are none in the front? Sorry, I guess I don't understand.
Howard: I thought rotors usually came in pairs and this is referred to as "per axel." So you buy a pair for the front axle and you buy a pair for the rear axle. When I said "per axle" I meant that 2 rotors cost $150.
In other news on Sunday night a tire on my subaru decided to eat itself after I got a nail in it.
yeah, definitely attack the codes first
cars are pretty smart at diagnosing themselves
also make sure you aren't getting a vacuum leak, I've seen that throw misfire codes before
I did the ghetto check. Start the car, take the oil cap off, hold my hand over the opening, feel for suction and there was. If changing the plugs doesn't work I'll get it checked for real.
VW used to have problems with coil packs in the MK4 days, I dunno if they've been sorted for the newer engines or not.
PSN: Beltaine-77 | Steam: beltane77 | Battle.net BadHaggis#1433
The nail actually went into the middle of the tread and it deflated so much that it ripped itself apart. So it really wasn't a sidewall puncture.
They weren't run flats and this happened at 55-60mph. The inside of the rim did sustain a dent which was noticable when they were balancing the new wheel. I haven't noticed any shaking or anything like that, but I might swap the rim out with an extra I have lying around.
That is pretty ghetto and pretty damn useless. You can have a vacuum leak and still have some suction. The real way to test is to have some fuel injector / carb cleaner and spray that at the vacuum lines. If the engine idles up at some point you may have found a leak.
I've also heard of a similar way of testing this using water where if water gets sucked into a vacuum line the idle will drop some. I've never tried this method as I'm not sure if getting small amounts of water in the engine would cause a problem. I'm guessing it wouldn't in such low amounts, but I would rather play it safe.
Water injection systems are actually a pretty good mod.
PSN: Beltaine-77 | Steam: beltane77 | Battle.net BadHaggis#1433
just for reference: not on BMWs (at least the e46).
Christ on a missile..
I broke my o2 sensor when my exhaust hit the under belly of my car, put 2 holes in my muffler (which was crap anyways... magnaflow on a civic) broke 3 hangars on the exhaust, and cracked my headers...
400 dollars later I have a whole new set-up, but now I sound like a shitty ricer... I'm trying to find where a vibration is coming from, at first it was the baffle, between 2-5krpms the baffle would rattle like mad and was louder than the exhaust itself. Removed the baffle, now it's much more silent between 2-5 but way louder from 5-10. I'm still getting a weird vibration when at 40-70% throttle too... it is driving me crazy.
I'll be buying a new muffler after PAX... but I thought I'd rant in the car thread.
Also it only took me 14 miles to put a scrape on my headers... went from a 1.5in collector to 2.5in collector and didn't think about the clearance difference
Recommendations on light improvement work? Depends are you looking for cosmetic stuff or basic maintenance stuff?
Well, I was going to start with the seats, at least removing the rust from the runners and freeing them up to move again, replace the foam and leather when I have the $$$. I do have a new, non-cracked dash board, but I would need to buy another console to replace the original, unless there is a good way to repair cracked vinyl?
If they're rusted up to the point of not moving, there's some severe metal damage there. Even if you do manage to refurb the metal bits, you'll still need to buy new foam, new cloth/vinyl/leather, and put in the time to do it all. You may end up cheaper in the long run just finding some used seats in good shape, and simply unbolting your skanky ones and bolting in the good ones.
Also, Rhino Ramps. Can't recommend them enough. Unless you're running bottomed out coilovers, they should do the job just fine. And if you are, you can build some ghetto ramp extensions out of about $20 worth of lumber from Lowe's
PSN: Beltaine-77 | Steam: beltane77 | Battle.net BadHaggis#1433
Yeah, looks like the driver side seat will just needed a little fresh grease to get it sliding, as it did start moving with a little grunt work (though I haven't unbolted them quite yet, saving that fun for the weekend!). The Passenger side was good and froze up though, had to use an axe as a lever to shove it forward enough to replace the battery
+1 for style!
Tell me you're planning on installing a Flux Capacitor
PSN: Beltaine-77 | Steam: beltane77 | Battle.net BadHaggis#1433
Steam: Kemlo
PSN: Beltaine-77 | Steam: beltane77 | Battle.net BadHaggis#1433
Heh, I don't fit in a BRZ (and probably an FRS) and I'm only 6'2". Sadtrombone.
I'm 6'2" and I fit fine in my 1985 rx7. I actually have a friend who is 6'4" and fits fine in the same car. The BRZ/FRS is actually bigger inside than those. I did have a bit of a problem fitting in an S2000 due to the seat not being able to move back far enough, but the BRZ is bigger inside than that.
Then you should, sort of, go with a WRX.
Yeah, for a long time I've preferred the Evo X over the current WRX/STi, but having recently learned the STi comes with a 6 speed it basically satisfies all of my desires so...