What Alecthar said re: the keyboard, if it ain't broke no need to fix it. I have a mechanical keyboard (CoolerMaster Storm Quickfire Rapid with Cherry Reds) and it's icing on the cake type stuff. You have a serious-business gaming keyboard, the time it takes for you to press down the keys on your rubber-dome keyboard versus the time it takes for my Cherry Reds to actuate will never be the deciding factor in who wins a match, it just comes down to personal preference. If my whole rig caught fire and I had to rebuy everything again, the keyboard would be the last thing on my list of priorities.
My G500, however, would be literally the first thing I would buy. I actually bought a second one for my HTPC and I plug it in whenever I actually do any serious gaming on it. It's a fantastic mouse, and the sensor position and performance are very well regarded.
As for a desk: $3k? Where are you looking at desks? My massive Studio Raxx desk that now lives in my studio retails for like $1500 and it has something like 30U of rack space. I paid a local guy in San Francisco about $1200 to hand make me a desk that is so similar to this one that I'm pretty sure this is actually just my desk (posting time coincides with when he built it for me): http://thejeremiahcollection.blogspot.com/2011/06/new-desk-photos.html
For any Bay-areans who need furniture, by the way, Jeremiah's work and taste are tops and he's a wonderful guy to boot; nay a fine gentleman: http://www.etsy.com/people/jeremiahcollection
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
That being said, my father who worked in the in the semi-conductor industry and has a degree in electrical engineering does have some pretty compelling arguments about how electrostatic discharge can damage components so that they will behave erratically, not just outright fail (or worse, fail slowly over time).
Of course, I'll sometimes catch him at his bench not using a wrist strap. I always shout "HA!" and point accusingly.
In a related story: I once took the components out of a Compaq (in socks and on a carpet, I remember this specifically) and put them into a Duraflame Fire Log cardboard box (on its side), fastened them into the box with duct tape and ran this machine in an attic constantly for about 2 and a half years. I then left the components loose in the back of a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera (the worst car I've ever driven) for over 8 months (sans Duraflame box), then gave the computer to a friend and hooked them up under her desk where they ran for an additonal 6 months until she got a real computer. This machine never behaved erratically, crashed or blue screened -- it was a model citizen.
Doesn't really prove anything one way or another, just fond memories I have.
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
That being said, my father who worked in the in the semi-conductor industry and has a degree in electrical engineering does have some pretty compelling arguments about how electrostatic discharge can damage components so that they will behave erratically, not just outright fail (or worse, fail slowly over time).
Of course, I'll sometimes catch him at his bench not using a wrist strap. I always shout "HA!" and point accusingly.
I plan on getting some use out of it long after I'm done with this. It only takes once, y'know?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
Damn. I wanted to do EVGA's Step-Up program, which lets you upgrade within 90 days of your purchase. But it turns out you need to buy an extended warranty to qualify and you can only do that within 30 days of purchase. Well, so much for that.
I mean, I'd be willing to pay the extra 10 bucks in order to step this up, but I guess they don't want it.
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minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Damn. I wanted to do EVGA's Step-Up program, which lets you upgrade within 90 days of your purchase. But it turns out you need to buy an extended warranty to qualify and you can only do that within 30 days of purchase. Well, so much for that.
I mean, I'd be willing to pay the extra 10 bucks in order to step this up, but I guess they don't want it.
Same boat here. =[
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
The step up program also requires you to pay for return shipping, I wanted to do it too, but after all the costs it didn't really make sense for some extra fps.
Eh, it depends. With my last computer, I purchased it in October 2007 (8800 GTS 320) and less than a month later a better, cheaper, significantly faster card came out (8800GT 512). It made sense to go ahead and use the program, given that I generally get around 4 years out of my computers.
Now, with my current build I used SLI, so any sort of step-up program would have been a poor value proposition.
My Crucial 512 GB came in, two days late. I've put it in the adapter cradle, and set it into my hard drive bay...and it's not showing up in Computer Management (Windows 7).
This is my first time installing an SSD. Am I overlooking something obvious? The first thing that comes to mind is that the cradle might be a dud, and I should try and connect it in directly, but is there something you typically need to do? I assumed it was the same as installing a normal disk drive.
Additionally, my motherboard is an EVGA 780i, with the Nvidia controllers. They've never had any problems detecting regular SATA drives, but sometimes, these things can go wrong.
Checked it in another socket in my HD rack, no go. Seems to be pointing to a bad adapter, to my annoyance. A fix might be tricky to come by, but not impossible. I think I'll test it in my laptop, to be absolutely certain the hugely expensive drive isn't a dud in the first place.
Could also be a bad cable. That one got me all confused once.
It was the cradle (so, sort of a bad cable?). I just sat it on the bottom of the hard drive rack (had to put it in the bottom slot so I could see), and it detected immediately. Ironically, except for that and my root drive, my other two drives aren't seated in all the way and didn't detect on boot up. L-O-L-Z.
Still, I'll take a bad cradle (which I don't need, apparently) over a bad 512 GB SSD. Any recommendations on what allocation size to go with? Or just default?
I do not know, to my embarrassment. I need to check in BIOS, right. I think that's mostly for TRIM in Windows 7.
Related question: GPT or MBR at computer management? I don't recall encountering this when I installed my last WD 1 TB, I'm planning to use this as a new root drive (copying my old WD 1 TB onto it), if that matters.
EDIT: Apparently, you can't use a GPT as an boot drive? And since a +2 TB SSD would cost as much as a used Ferrari or a Huey helicopter, I guess MBR is the way to go?
So Windows 8 Pro upgrade for those with legal copies of XP, Vista, and 7 is going to be $39.99 when bought online through Microsoft or $69.99 in stores/retail. At that price I'll be buying it to at least give it a try and stick with it if I like it.
whats up jiggas? havn't been on because you're advice was SO great, I game now ^_^ teeheehee
but, wanted to stop in for a quick question for bratha;
1)anyone familiar with hackintoshes?
2)i can run dayz pretty solid @1080 and my brother's comment was "this looks a whole lot better than I thought it would." So what is, around ~500$ equivalent for him?
my specs:
i3 2100
antec eco 520
8 gig corsair
gb-z68p-ds3
5750 fanless
win7 home 64
Sigh. Computer troubles.
I try to boot it, it turns off after 2 seconds. I looked in the back and the "CMOS off" was glowing. I turned the PSU off for a bit then turned it back on an it still won't boot. the "CMOS off" went off though.
I've got 16 120mm fans in my case, 15 of which are run together in sets of three to moIex connectors(aIthough I couId change that if need be I suppose). I want to be abIe to diaI 'em down to nothing when i'm just desktopping since I reaIIy don't need to be pushing any air at aII through my rads unIess i'm actuaIIy pIaying games.
I can Ieave the singIe fan pIugged into the motherboard and just Iet asus fanxpert handIe it but i don't want to run everything off the onboard headers for fear of toasting something. These are 1400rpm fans so they aren't drawing a ton of juice to begin with, but a controIIer is a Iot cheaper than a new x79 board
I'm hoping there's something of decent quaIity that can just handIe running a set of fans through one unit, aIthough I technicaIIy have space for up to two 5.25" bay controIIers in my setup.
I've got 16 120mm fans in my case, 15 of which are run together in sets of three to moIex connectors(aIthough I couId change that if need be I suppose). I want to be abIe to diaI 'em down to nothing when i'm just desktopping since I reaIIy don't need to be pushing any air at aII through my rads unIess i'm actuaIIy pIaying games.
I can Ieave the singIe fan pIugged into the motherboard and just Iet asus fanxpert handIe it but i don't want to run everything off the onboard headers for fear of toasting something. These are 1400rpm fans so they aren't drawing a ton of juice to begin with, but a controIIer is a Iot cheaper than a new x79 board
I'm hoping there's something of decent quaIity that can just handIe running a set of fans through one unit, aIthough I technicaIIy have space for up to two 5.25" bay controIIers in my setup.
You only have one fan header? what kind of crazy motherboard did you buy??
EDIT: Misread your post. Yes, I'd be nervous about running 4 fans off of a single header times 4 (or more!). Corsair makes a very expensive fan controlling solution that you should buy because I know you totally hate money, Bear.
So, apparently my old 780i really doesn't want to track more than 3 SATA drives at any time, hah. Anyone know why? It seems to stop recognizing my SSD (which is now my root drive, so kind of a big deal).
Are you attempting to achieve lift with your case?
Most fan controllers can handle like 6 fans each, so if you had a couple of 5.25 bays open you could do it. What I would do is set your essential fans (front intake, top exhaust, rear exhaust) to a always on state and then you could do the other 12 fans on a pair of controllers.
the datasheet on 'em caIIs for 1.45watts at fuII speed, so i can probabIy chain three off a singIe Iine on a controIIer without hurting anything so Iong as it's a decent piece of kit.
e: that hydra pro says it can handIe 30 watts per channeI, which is way more than i'II need.
Posts
So I take it now is a bad time to point out this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157293
Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better
bit.ly/2XQM1ke
What Alecthar said re: the keyboard, if it ain't broke no need to fix it. I have a mechanical keyboard (CoolerMaster Storm Quickfire Rapid with Cherry Reds) and it's icing on the cake type stuff. You have a serious-business gaming keyboard, the time it takes for you to press down the keys on your rubber-dome keyboard versus the time it takes for my Cherry Reds to actuate will never be the deciding factor in who wins a match, it just comes down to personal preference. If my whole rig caught fire and I had to rebuy everything again, the keyboard would be the last thing on my list of priorities.
My G500, however, would be literally the first thing I would buy. I actually bought a second one for my HTPC and I plug it in whenever I actually do any serious gaming on it. It's a fantastic mouse, and the sensor position and performance are very well regarded.
As for a desk: $3k? Where are you looking at desks? My massive Studio Raxx desk that now lives in my studio retails for like $1500 and it has something like 30U of rack space. I paid a local guy in San Francisco about $1200 to hand make me a desk that is so similar to this one that I'm pretty sure this is actually just my desk (posting time coincides with when he built it for me): http://thejeremiahcollection.blogspot.com/2011/06/new-desk-photos.html
For any Bay-areans who need furniture, by the way, Jeremiah's work and taste are tops and he's a wonderful guy to boot; nay a fine gentleman: http://www.etsy.com/people/jeremiahcollection
Nah, I already knew. Decided to stick with the ASUS because it's nice and featureful, and also because blue.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Great choices, well done!
Although the wrist strap made me LOL.
That being said, my father who worked in the in the semi-conductor industry and has a degree in electrical engineering does have some pretty compelling arguments about how electrostatic discharge can damage components so that they will behave erratically, not just outright fail (or worse, fail slowly over time).
Of course, I'll sometimes catch him at his bench not using a wrist strap. I always shout "HA!" and point accusingly.
In a related story: I once took the components out of a Compaq (in socks and on a carpet, I remember this specifically) and put them into a Duraflame Fire Log cardboard box (on its side), fastened them into the box with duct tape and ran this machine in an attic constantly for about 2 and a half years. I then left the components loose in the back of a 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera (the worst car I've ever driven) for over 8 months (sans Duraflame box), then gave the computer to a friend and hooked them up under her desk where they ran for an additonal 6 months until she got a real computer. This machine never behaved erratically, crashed or blue screened -- it was a model citizen.
Doesn't really prove anything one way or another, just fond memories I have.
I plan on getting some use out of it long after I'm done with this. It only takes once, y'know?
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
120gig for $60
Not keen on OCZ and the seller isn't very good, but newegg has a 128 today as a shellshocker so we might see a pricematch from newegg.
I mean, I'd be willing to pay the extra 10 bucks in order to step this up, but I guess they don't want it.
Same boat here. =[
Now, with my current build I used SLI, so any sort of step-up program would have been a poor value proposition.
Apparently Plextor makes a good SSD now?? Weird.
My Crucial 512 GB came in, two days late. I've put it in the adapter cradle, and set it into my hard drive bay...and it's not showing up in Computer Management (Windows 7).
This is my first time installing an SSD. Am I overlooking something obvious? The first thing that comes to mind is that the cradle might be a dud, and I should try and connect it in directly, but is there something you typically need to do? I assumed it was the same as installing a normal disk drive.
Additionally, my motherboard is an EVGA 780i, with the Nvidia controllers. They've never had any problems detecting regular SATA drives, but sometimes, these things can go wrong.
Does it show up in BIOS? If no, reseat cabling.
Does it appear as a volume in Disk Management? If yes, you probably just need to assign it a drive letter and partition it.
Checked it in another socket in my HD rack, no go. Seems to be pointing to a bad adapter, to my annoyance. A fix might be tricky to come by, but not impossible. I think I'll test it in my laptop, to be absolutely certain the hugely expensive drive isn't a dud in the first place.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
It was the cradle (so, sort of a bad cable?). I just sat it on the bottom of the hard drive rack (had to put it in the bottom slot so I could see), and it detected immediately. Ironically, except for that and my root drive, my other two drives aren't seated in all the way and didn't detect on boot up. L-O-L-Z.
Still, I'll take a bad cradle (which I don't need, apparently) over a bad 512 GB SSD. Any recommendations on what allocation size to go with? Or just default?
I do not know, to my embarrassment. I need to check in BIOS, right. I think that's mostly for TRIM in Windows 7.
Related question: GPT or MBR at computer management? I don't recall encountering this when I installed my last WD 1 TB, I'm planning to use this as a new root drive (copying my old WD 1 TB onto it), if that matters.
EDIT: Apparently, you can't use a GPT as an boot drive? And since a +2 TB SSD would cost as much as a used Ferrari or a Huey helicopter, I guess MBR is the way to go?
but, wanted to stop in for a quick question for bratha;
1)anyone familiar with hackintoshes?
2)i can run dayz pretty solid @1080 and my brother's comment was "this looks a whole lot better than I thought it would." So what is, around ~500$ equivalent for him?
my specs:
i3 2100
antec eco 520
8 gig corsair
gb-z68p-ds3
5750 fanless
win7 home 64
doesn't need monitor, mouse, or keyboard
I try to boot it, it turns off after 2 seconds. I looked in the back and the "CMOS off" was glowing. I turned the PSU off for a bit then turned it back on an it still won't boot. the "CMOS off" went off though.
Help
BF3 Battlelog | Twitter | World of Warships | World of Tanks | Wishlist
Presumably my PSU is dead again. Thanks Corsair. It lasted me a month.
BF3 Battlelog | Twitter | World of Warships | World of Tanks | Wishlist
taIk to me about fan controllers
I've got 16 120mm fans in my case, 15 of which are run together in sets of three to moIex connectors(aIthough I couId change that if need be I suppose). I want to be abIe to diaI 'em down to nothing when i'm just desktopping since I reaIIy don't need to be pushing any air at aII through my rads unIess i'm actuaIIy pIaying games.
I can Ieave the singIe fan pIugged into the motherboard and just Iet asus fanxpert handIe it but i don't want to run everything off the onboard headers for fear of toasting something. These are 1400rpm fans so they aren't drawing a ton of juice to begin with, but a controIIer is a Iot cheaper than a new x79 board
I'm hoping there's something of decent quaIity that can just handIe running a set of fans through one unit, aIthough I technicaIIy have space for up to two 5.25" bay controIIers in my setup.
You only have one fan header? what kind of crazy motherboard did you buy??
EDIT: Misread your post. Yes, I'd be nervous about running 4 fans off of a single header times 4 (or more!). Corsair makes a very expensive fan controlling solution that you should buy because I know you totally hate money, Bear.
http://www.corsair.com/us/corsair-link/corsair-link-kits.html
four or five avaiIabIe to run my case fans.
but i'm kind of Ieery of pIugging in three fans to one motherboard header, even if the numbers suggest it'II be fine.
Mine did. A visible chip (the SSD is stored closer to the center of the cradle).
BF3 Battlelog | Twitter | World of Warships | World of Tanks | Wishlist
Are you attempting to achieve lift with your case?
Most fan controllers can handle like 6 fans each, so if you had a couple of 5.25 bays open you could do it. What I would do is set your essential fans (front intake, top exhaust, rear exhaust) to a always on state and then you could do the other 12 fans on a pair of controllers.
How much wattage does each fan take? Because this: http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/accessories/hydra-pro might be your answer
but if you hate money....
http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/accessories/recon
e: that hydra pro says it can handIe 30 watts per channeI, which is way more than i'II need.
heh, a lot of Corsair units are ODM seasonic units :P
@minirhyder that sucks about your PC woes
I'm assuming this isn't a new build? As in, it was working fine yesterday and only now has decided to die?
Ever tried. Ever failed. No matter. Try again. Fail again. Fail better
bit.ly/2XQM1ke
This place is insane. You can't actually move that much air through your case!
And I thought I was crazy with 5 140mm fans. Showed me up!
(4 120.3 rads, and then another handfuI to move air around in certain spots that the radiator airfIow isn't getting too)