Clarification/warning: do not literally spread it by hand.
I have a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ on my Ivy Bridge chip, and I use the "thin center line" application method on the chip itself, and also "tint" the actual heat pipe contact area of the cooler with the paste by applying a little bit and then spreading it very thin with the edge of a credit card.
I would agree with @tsmvengy about the "If you can't get the cooler to come off, you did it right" rule of thumb, although it is seriously always a butt-puckering moment when I DO need to remove the cooler because I am always worried I will yank the chip out of the socket and damage it for that reason.
I did yank the chip out of my AM2 motherboard once, nothing bad happened to the chip though!
How is this bundle for a good starting point on rebuilding a PC that's nothing more than an email/web browsing machine?
Was thinking of pairing it with This Cooler Master 525w power supply since that seems to be the cheapest one i can find with a brand I trust, and this Seagate Barracuda HDD since space is not important for this project.
Trying to price out a replacement/rebuild for someone.
Anyone come up with any clever ways to block the on-board audio ports on your motherboard? I put an Asus Xonar DG in my system because my onboard audio does not work, and I'm curious if anyone makes little... well port-fillers for lack of a better term. This is a totally frivolous and pointless mod, I just want to block out ports that aren't usable.
How is this bundle for a good starting point on rebuilding a PC that's nothing more than an email/web browsing machine?
Was thinking of pairing it with This Cooler Master 525w power supply since that seems to be the cheapest one i can find with a brand I trust, and this Seagate Barracuda HDD since space is not important for this project.
Trying to price out a replacement/rebuild for someone.
Don't buy that PSU. Cooler Master's units are almost universally cruddy. Just grab a 300W Seaonic unit, or the 380W Antec Earthwatts unit. 500ish watts would be more than you'd need anyway.
There was a nice seasonic cheaper than the cooler master, so I got that and ran it passed them and they gave the okay so I get to have fun assembling my first APU system when I get them to order it tomarrow.
So as I mentioned in the last thread, I took of the heat sink last night to see if I applied the paste right. Here's the pics:
So it looks like it spread pretty well (in fact, I may have used too much since it seems like it went over into the blades of the sink too.) So I reapplied and started up again. Still 48-50 degrees idle, 66-68 degrees while playing FTL. I looked at my order from NewEgg from years ago and it looks like I didn't buy the heat sink separately, so I guess I shouldn't expect more from a stock fan and heat sink.
I've had issues with this style of heatsink before not seating properly (lga775?), the clip in pins were tweaked and I had to move bend them back in to place to get the heatsink to fit snug. Yours look to be okay, but make sure the heatsink doesn't jiggle even the slightest once fully applied.
I've had issues with this style of heatsink before not seating properly (lga775?), the clip in pins were tweaked and I had to move bend them back in to place to get the heatsink to fit snug. Yours look to be okay, but make sure the heatsink doesn't jiggle even the slightest once fully applied.
Yes, I did notice that. It wasn't sitting well the first time, so I propped the whole case back up and checked around the back side (fortunately the case has a hole cut behind where the CPU sits) to make sure the pins made it through all the way. They didn't, so I had to pull them out and try again. When I reapplied the paste yesterday, I made sure to push the pins in hard the first time so I could avoid the problem. Although, following the comments since then, I fear I applied too much paste again. /sigh
DisruptedCapitalist on
"Simple, real stupidity beats artificial intelligence every time." -Mustrum Ridcully in Terry Pratchett's Hogfather p. 142 (HarperPrism 1996)
So this'll be a bit different but hoping you guys can help me out.
My PC is dying on me and from what I can tell it's not really salvageable/not worth it. I built this PC with a friend and help from this thread a few years ago.
Now I'm looking into a new desktop, but I'm currently crazy busy and don't have time to research/order/wait/build for a new desktop. I also lack the patience right now truthfully.
So I was thinking about ordering a pre built one...I know...I know. BUT it's been forever since I've done this and I have no idea where to go. I went on Amazon to look and prices seem pretty reasonable.
I was looking at Alienware, but I don't know. I'm primarily wanting it for gaming. I pretty much only use my computers for one other program/general interwebz.
Was hoping you fine gents might be willing to point me in a solid direction. I'm open to different price points as it's less of an issue. I recently bought an ASUS laptop which I've been quite happy with and been using it as a gaming laptop for the past 5 months while I was out of the states.
Anyone get one of the 760's yet? I see they are out... $259 for the Superclocked EVGA model with the dual fan design looks pretty nice.
Edit: Is it bad that I want to buy one despite not really having any performance issue with my 560ti and one of the reasons is so I won't have to use the stupid Mini HDMI to HDMI adapter like with my current card that if you bump it you lose sound and/or picture signal.
Anyone get one of the 760's yet? I see they are out... $259 for the Superclocked EVGA model with the dual fan design looks pretty nice.
Edit: Is it bad that I want to buy one despite not really having any performance issue with my 560ti
If it's bad than the fact I am seriously thinking about selling my 670 to get one has to be much worse.
I was also looking at the EVGA superclocked with the cooler...a part of me wants to see what their FTW edition with 4GB of memory is like though.
+2
SarksusATTACK AND DETHRONE GODRegistered Userregular
How long before they usually release their 4GB FTW cards? I feel like the additional memory will come in handy in the next 5 years, which is how long I intend to keep the card.
I'm not sure. They should be able to release them at any time since the boards are just refreshes of the 670s which means they don't have to build a new pcb from scratch. But there may be some limitations on release timings dicted by nvidia
0
WulfDisciple of TzeentchThe Void... (New Jersey)Registered Userregular
edited June 2013
*grumble grumble* So apparently you need to drill some custom mounting holes to fit the X60 onto the top mount for the Corsair 500R. Brought it into work so I can get at some of our drill presses and gasket material so I can make it anti-vibration too. So much for a simple evening re-build :whistle:
So what would the benefits of the 4GB FTW cards be? Where would you see the increases in performance and will it be worth the ~$40-50 price increase on those cards?
Incindium on
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
0
AlectharAlan ShoreWe're not territorial about that sort of thing, are we?Registered Userregular
So what would the benefits of the 4GB FTW cards be? Where would you see the increases in performance and will it be worth the ~$40-50 price increase on those cards?
How helpful additional VRAM is really depends on what resolution you're gaming at, and what you're playing. If you're talking about super high multi-monitor resolutions, you're getting into the realm where even some not-crazy games are going to benefit from that additional video memory. Similarly, if you're playing Skyrim, or GTA IV, or the like with those super-fancy high-end texture mods, then that will tax VRAM more than normal, particularly at higher single-monitor (and by extension, multi-monitor) resolutions. Even then, the real question is whether or not that VRAM makes the difference between playable and non-playable, because if it's just a change from 13FPS to 23FPS, who cares? Ditto for 113FPS to 123FPS. The only way to find that out is to find some benchmarks, Anandtech has an okay comparative benchmarking tool, and they actually just did an article about the differences in performance between high VRAM 780s and those with less.
So if you're a 1080p gamer, and you don't dump a lot of 3rd party graphics mods onto your games, then the difference between 2GB and 4GB would likely be insignificant. That may change over time, but I doubt you'd reach the point where you the only thing making you upgrade the card is its lack of VRAM (if you get my meaning).
I'm 1080p and only driving a single monitor(an HDTV) so yeah more VRAM isn't likely to do much for me it sounds like.
Anyone know if you get any free games when buying a new EVGA 760 card?
It doesn't look like it on Newegg. There are 670's and such which are still offering the free copy of Metro: Last Light. Curious Nvidia hasn't carried over the offer or started a new one for 7-series cards.
I am only a 1080p single-display gamer myself at the moment but I am still entertaining designs of going up to 1440p at some time in the next year or so, which is why a 4GB card interests me.
0
SarksusATTACK AND DETHRONE GODRegistered Userregular
Mostly I might get a 1440p monitor sometime in the future and I suspect texture resolution can increase in the next five years so I don't mind spending a little extra based on that assumption.
@Grove: For a desktop, I would look into Dell or possibly Alienware. Also poke around on review sites (tomshardware, maximumpc, etc) for some prebuilts they have reviewed recently. I know that MaximumPC keeps a running list of their best prebuilts; just not sure how readily accessible that list is.
@Grove: For a desktop, I would look into Dell or possibly Alienware. Also poke around on review sites (tomshardware, maximumpc, etc) for some prebuilts they have reviewed recently. I know that MaximumPC keeps a running list of their best prebuilts; just not sure how readily accessible that list is.
I've found a couple of contenders. Right now I'm trying to decide whether to pull the trigger or wait until I have more time to build a new one. My laptop is decently powerful and is serving the purpose of both for now.
@Grove: For a desktop, I would look into Dell or possibly Alienware. Also poke around on review sites (tomshardware, maximumpc, etc) for some prebuilts they have reviewed recently. I know that MaximumPC keeps a running list of their best prebuilts; just not sure how readily accessible that list is.
I've found a couple of contenders. Right now I'm trying to decide whether to pull the trigger or wait until I have more time to build a new one. My laptop is decently powerful and is serving the purpose of both for now.
@Grove - What are your lead choices right now? I am somewhat looking for a prebuilt game PC, but prices seemed pretty absurd last I looked. (I wound up going with an Asus laptop, as it had better bang for the buck than gamer PCs somehow)
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Give us a budget and a few pointers to work with - do you want a small sleek quiet monolith, or do you want something big and flashy with lights everywhere?
I want something that either will or can easily/cheaply be upgraded to play PC versions of next gen console games. I can't say I particularly care about size or appearance.
I would probably be aiming for somewhere around 800-1000 if I could, but I'm not sure how feasible that is.
My friend is working on a roguelike game you can play if you want to. (It has free demo)
Uh right now for around a grand you can do pretty well.
I just put together a build for a buddy that i think came to roughly 1000usd before windows. haswell i5 4670, 660ti although the 760 is out now, 8gigs of ram, ssd 2terabyte hdd, corsair h60 on cooling in a corsair 200r. I actually need to take some pics and post it up in here but that should be within the ballpark of what you're talking about here.
To shave cash in order to fit windows into your budget you could stick with the stock air cooler and either downsize or ditch the 2tb hdd. Can you reuse your old case? Drives?
my old computer was a laptop I was using for college, my other computer before that was a shitty dell that I am typing this up on now, I don't think there's anything in it worth cannibalizing.
EDIT:
is windows 8 out for real now?
Because I have seen nothing of it I want but maybe 7 will be less expensive now if it is? I dunno.
SLyM on
My friend is working on a roguelike game you can play if you want to. (It has free demo)
uhh you may be able to find a bargain on windows licenses, i'm not sure. but i think the full retail is still normally about the same as it was before. 7 versus 8 is more down to if you don't agree with 8 or not
The first time I saw a UPS was on a military base. Why would I want one for household use? I have one day left of Amazon Prime left and I'm thinking of getting one.
The first time I saw a UPS was on a military base. Why would I want one for household use? I have one day left of Amazon Prime left and I'm thinking of getting one.
They clean and protect the power, like a power strip, only much better. And sudden loss in power can cause you to lose data or have it be corrupted. In extreme cases it can even damage components. The same reasons they had them on the military base really.
They're just a good way to protect your investment in computer equipment.
So I'm new to the thread. What is the best way to figure out what I need for what I want to do? Than figure out how much I have to save? Should I post what I have so people can suggest what to upgrade (if possible) versus out right buy better stuff? My rig is a few years old, and I notice drag in D3. And also, Hi nice to meet you all.
Post what you have now and what you do/want to play. If D3 is your primary jam, a relatively modest upgrade should work. If you want to max Crysis 3, that would be a more substantial change...
0
BlackDragon480Bluster KerfuffleMaster of Windy ImportRegistered Userregular
edited June 2013
Quick question for you ladies and gents, regarding which platform I should go with for my upcoming build.
I'm looking at doing my first serious, from scratch build in about 6 years and I want to do something that's flexible enough to last for the next 4-5 years for both gaming and running 4-5 virtual devices at a time (I do a good bit of android and other mobile programming/development) and a couple of compute heavy tasks. Problem is I haven't really been keeping track since the first AMD quad cores started rolling out, so I'm not all that up on the latest couple of revisions.
Big question I'm asking myself is do I go for a X79/2011 build with a 3820 or 3930K and as much RAM as I can shove in the mobo and look at going to an Ivy-E chip somewhere down the line, or would a X87/1150 build w/ a 4770K be able to keep up in the long term?
Budget I'm looking at is between $2000-2500 and it'll be a full or E-ATX tower as my big ass hands don't like working in smaller form factor cases and a closed looped liquid solution for CPU cooling.
BlackDragon480 on
No matter where you go...there you are. ~ Buckaroo Banzai
The first time I saw a UPS was on a military base. Why would I want one for household use? I have one day left of Amazon Prime left and I'm thinking of getting one.
They clean and protect the power, like a power strip, only much better. And sudden loss in power can cause you to lose data or have it be corrupted. In extreme cases it can even damage components. The same reasons they had them on the military base really.
They're just a good way to protect your investment in computer equipment.
I'm going to South Korea, will this one be suitable for varying voltage? (Today is my last day of Amazon Prime.)
Quick question for you ladies and gents, regarding which platform I should go with for my upcoming build.
I'm looking at doing my first serious, from scratch build in about 6 years and I want to do something that's flexible enough to last for the next 4-5 years for both gaming and running 4-5 virtual devices at a time (I do a good bit of android and other mobile programming/development) and a couple of compute heavy tasks. Problem is I haven't really been keeping track since the first AMD quad cores started rolling out, so I'm not all that up on the latest couple of revisions.
Big question I'm asking myself is do I go for a X79/2011 build with a 3820 or 3930K and as much RAM as I can shove in the mobo and look at going to an Ivy-E chip somewhere down the line, or would a X87/1150 build w/ a 4770K be able to keep up in the long term?
Budget I'm looking at is between $2000-2500 and it'll be a full or E-ATX tower as my big ass hands don't like working in smaller form factor cases and a closed looped liquid solution for CPU cooling.
For heavy virtualization work the extra ram on x79 and potentially the extra cores/threads actually are pretty nice. I'd say a modest 2011 motherboard and a 3820 would see you pretty well and probably not cost much more than an equivalent haswell setup, other than the extra ram.
Basically you'll pay more for the motherboard but less for a quad core i7 on x79 right now as compared to haswell.
Posts
I did yank the chip out of my AM2 motherboard once, nothing bad happened to the chip though!
How is this bundle for a good starting point on rebuilding a PC that's nothing more than an email/web browsing machine?
Was thinking of pairing it with This Cooler Master 525w power supply since that seems to be the cheapest one i can find with a brand I trust, and this Seagate Barracuda HDD since space is not important for this project.
Trying to price out a replacement/rebuild for someone.
Don't buy that PSU. Cooler Master's units are almost universally cruddy. Just grab a 300W Seaonic unit, or the 380W Antec Earthwatts unit. 500ish watts would be more than you'd need anyway.
Battle.net
Thanks Alec
I've had issues with this style of heatsink before not seating properly (lga775?), the clip in pins were tweaked and I had to move bend them back in to place to get the heatsink to fit snug. Yours look to be okay, but make sure the heatsink doesn't jiggle even the slightest once fully applied.
Yes, I did notice that. It wasn't sitting well the first time, so I propped the whole case back up and checked around the back side (fortunately the case has a hole cut behind where the CPU sits) to make sure the pins made it through all the way. They didn't, so I had to pull them out and try again. When I reapplied the paste yesterday, I made sure to push the pins in hard the first time so I could avoid the problem. Although, following the comments since then, I fear I applied too much paste again. /sigh
My PC is dying on me and from what I can tell it's not really salvageable/not worth it. I built this PC with a friend and help from this thread a few years ago.
Now I'm looking into a new desktop, but I'm currently crazy busy and don't have time to research/order/wait/build for a new desktop. I also lack the patience right now truthfully.
So I was thinking about ordering a pre built one...I know...I know. BUT it's been forever since I've done this and I have no idea where to go. I went on Amazon to look and prices seem pretty reasonable.
I was looking at Alienware, but I don't know. I'm primarily wanting it for gaming. I pretty much only use my computers for one other program/general interwebz.
Was hoping you fine gents might be willing to point me in a solid direction. I'm open to different price points as it's less of an issue. I recently bought an ASUS laptop which I've been quite happy with and been using it as a gaming laptop for the past 5 months while I was out of the states.
Edit: Is it bad that I want to buy one despite not really having any performance issue with my 560ti and one of the reasons is so I won't have to use the stupid Mini HDMI to HDMI adapter like with my current card that if you bump it you lose sound and/or picture signal.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
If it's bad than the fact I am seriously thinking about selling my 670 to get one has to be much worse.
I was also looking at the EVGA superclocked with the cooler...a part of me wants to see what their FTW edition with 4GB of memory is like though.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
How helpful additional VRAM is really depends on what resolution you're gaming at, and what you're playing. If you're talking about super high multi-monitor resolutions, you're getting into the realm where even some not-crazy games are going to benefit from that additional video memory. Similarly, if you're playing Skyrim, or GTA IV, or the like with those super-fancy high-end texture mods, then that will tax VRAM more than normal, particularly at higher single-monitor (and by extension, multi-monitor) resolutions. Even then, the real question is whether or not that VRAM makes the difference between playable and non-playable, because if it's just a change from 13FPS to 23FPS, who cares? Ditto for 113FPS to 123FPS. The only way to find that out is to find some benchmarks, Anandtech has an okay comparative benchmarking tool, and they actually just did an article about the differences in performance between high VRAM 780s and those with less.
So if you're a 1080p gamer, and you don't dump a lot of 3rd party graphics mods onto your games, then the difference between 2GB and 4GB would likely be insignificant. That may change over time, but I doubt you'd reach the point where you the only thing making you upgrade the card is its lack of VRAM (if you get my meaning).
Battle.net
Anyone know if you get any free games when buying a new EVGA 760 card?
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
It doesn't look like it on Newegg. There are 670's and such which are still offering the free copy of Metro: Last Light. Curious Nvidia hasn't carried over the offer or started a new one for 7-series cards.
I am only a 1080p single-display gamer myself at the moment but I am still entertaining designs of going up to 1440p at some time in the next year or so, which is why a 4GB card interests me.
Cool thanks @Mugsley.
I've found a couple of contenders. Right now I'm trying to decide whether to pull the trigger or wait until I have more time to build a new one. My laptop is decently powerful and is serving the purpose of both for now.
also everyone else in this thread too, I guess
@Grove - What are your lead choices right now? I am somewhat looking for a prebuilt game PC, but prices seemed pretty absurd last I looked. (I wound up going with an Asus laptop, as it had better bang for the buck than gamer PCs somehow)
Give us a budget and a few pointers to work with - do you want a small sleek quiet monolith, or do you want something big and flashy with lights everywhere?
I would probably be aiming for somewhere around 800-1000 if I could, but I'm not sure how feasible that is.
I was looking at this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227466
Still searching. I actually have an ASUS laptop which I like a lot, but yeah I still like having the desktop.
Uh right now for around a grand you can do pretty well.
I just put together a build for a buddy that i think came to roughly 1000usd before windows. haswell i5 4670, 660ti although the 760 is out now, 8gigs of ram, ssd 2terabyte hdd, corsair h60 on cooling in a corsair 200r. I actually need to take some pics and post it up in here but that should be within the ballpark of what you're talking about here.
To shave cash in order to fit windows into your budget you could stick with the stock air cooler and either downsize or ditch the 2tb hdd. Can you reuse your old case? Drives?
EDIT:
is windows 8 out for real now?
Because I have seen nothing of it I want but maybe 7 will be less expensive now if it is? I dunno.
They clean and protect the power, like a power strip, only much better. And sudden loss in power can cause you to lose data or have it be corrupted. In extreme cases it can even damage components. The same reasons they had them on the military base really.
They're just a good way to protect your investment in computer equipment.
I'm looking at doing my first serious, from scratch build in about 6 years and I want to do something that's flexible enough to last for the next 4-5 years for both gaming and running 4-5 virtual devices at a time (I do a good bit of android and other mobile programming/development) and a couple of compute heavy tasks. Problem is I haven't really been keeping track since the first AMD quad cores started rolling out, so I'm not all that up on the latest couple of revisions.
Big question I'm asking myself is do I go for a X79/2011 build with a 3820 or 3930K and as much RAM as I can shove in the mobo and look at going to an Ivy-E chip somewhere down the line, or would a X87/1150 build w/ a 4770K be able to keep up in the long term?
Budget I'm looking at is between $2000-2500 and it'll be a full or E-ATX tower as my big ass hands don't like working in smaller form factor cases and a closed looped liquid solution for CPU cooling.
~ Buckaroo Banzai
I'm going to South Korea, will this one be suitable for varying voltage? (Today is my last day of Amazon Prime.)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
For heavy virtualization work the extra ram on x79 and potentially the extra cores/threads actually are pretty nice. I'd say a modest 2011 motherboard and a 3820 would see you pretty well and probably not cost much more than an equivalent haswell setup, other than the extra ram.
Basically you'll pay more for the motherboard but less for a quad core i7 on x79 right now as compared to haswell.