Personally, I'd have probably re-cut that. But, if that's not an option, you can try using some wood filler; though that big of a gap might be hard to fill. And wood filler is hard to use with stain, in my experience, but if you're painting it's not big deal.
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Basically, to prevent the corners of the wood splitting away when you cut it, you need to mark all the way around, then scribe along the line with something like a steel ruler and an old butter knife with a scoring edge ground onto it.
Then, you cut about a third of the way through from one side, flip the piece, and cut the rest of the way through from the other side.
I personally loathe the skillsaw; it's inelegant, hard to keep on a line, and tears the shit out of wood unless your blade is nearly new. In my experience, at least.
+1
Options
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
I personally loathe the skillsaw; it's inelegant, hard to keep on a line, and tears the shit out of wood unless your blade is nearly new. In my experience, at least.
A mitre box will do the job.
As will a circular saw. Do you have a wood blade in it? You must securely clamp the workpiece, and also clamp a guide rail for the saw baseplate to run along. If the pieces of wood are too small to allow for that, then break out the tenon saw or mitre box.
0
Options
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
Follow Chris' advice about using the hand saw and you'll be golden. I'd do that before I tried to wrestle a circular saw into cooperating. You'll end up with nice perfect cuts and no splintering.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Follow Chris' advice about using the hand saw and you'll be golden.
Thanks Again! OK then I guess I'm taking it apart then, I think the others are fine & fixed by sanding. I'll just redo the one really messed up piece. My dad probably has a miter box somewhere in his garage.
loschurros on
0
Options
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I mean, honestly, if it's on the bottom and you aren't super picky about the looks, you can make it work with some wood filler alone. It'll look a little funky with the stain, but it'll hold, structurally. If you don't feel like taking it apart and redoing it, anyway.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
I mean, honestly, if it's on the bottom and you aren't super picky about the looks, you can make it work with some wood filler alone. It'll look a little funky with the stain, but it'll hold, structurally. If you don't feel like taking it apart and redoing it, anyway.
It's up to you, yeah. I mean, I'm a nitpicky perfectionist, so I'd recut that shit because compulsion. But maybe you're not like me, and are better suited to improvisation and adaptability.
All you've done so far is cut, screw, and sand in 4 small pieces of wood. The amount of time this should have taken is short enough that redoing it all should take less time than trying to fix the error.
I got this for Xmas:
Brook PS3/PS4 fight board. I'm hyped to finally use my fightstick on my PS4, since it's been collecting dust ever since I got rid of the 360. However, rather than just start soldering wires directly to the board, I kinda want to class it up and doing something like this (stolen from the SRK forums):
How'd he do that? The fightboard is 4x4cm, so the PCB below it is probably 5x6 or so? How did he connect the two (there are no good shots), or how would you connect the two? What's a good place to get these kinds of components?
***
Ok, the blank PCB is 5x7cm. I counted the pads.
I suppose if I wanted to get fancy, I could use pin connectors so that the fightboard could be removed from the breakout later. I like that idea, actually.
***
Ugh, I have a shopping list now, but actually finding what I want is difficult. I wonder if it'd be worth it to make a trip to Frys on the off chance that I can pick up and hold a few of these things in my hand to ensure what I'm getting is all the right sizes and stuff.
I looked up the Brook fight board specs, and it looks like an all-in-one solution. Why do you want to wire another PCB board to it? I don't know what your old fight stick wiring looks like, but I would remove your old fight stick's PCB board and replace it with the Brook board. Aka, the Brook board looks like a direct replacement.
Edit: I see what he did. He soldered in male to male header pins (essential a stiff wire with a hard plastic sheath in the middle, using the sheath as a standoff) to connect up the 2 boards. Then he soldered wires from the bottom of the header pins to the green connectors, and flush cut the excess afterwards to keep it neat.
Edit2: On second look, he didn't even use header pins as standoffs to connect the 2 boards. He wired directly from the IO pins of the Brook board directly to the pins of the green screw terminals of the blank PCB. You can see the bare wires running from the Brook to the PCB without any standoffs in view. My guess, he's attached rubber standoffs to the 3 Brook mount points, but didn't attach them to the PCB, instead relying on wire tension & solid wire (instead of stranded wire, visible at the screw terminals) to keep the board connected.
7x5cm blank PCB/breadboard
pin headers, male and female
- 1x16
- 1x5
- 1x9
- 1x7
screw terminals
- 19 (20)
USB Type-B Jack socket connector
22x .110 quick disconnects
Wire (24AWG for running to buttons)
- Black
- Blue
Wire (30AWG for the pcb)
- Black
- <Whatever not black>
Cable Sleeving
Just need to figure out where to buy it all. Yes, I can (probably) order it all, but I'm one of those guys that really wants to hold things in his hand when he buys them, just to be certain that I got sizes right and things like that.
Edit2: On second look, he didn't even use header pins as standoffs to connect the 2 boards. He wired directly from the IO pins of the Brook board directly to the pins of the green screw terminals of the blank PCB. You can see the bare wires running from the Brook to the PCB without any standoffs in view. My guess, he's attached rubber standoffs to the 3 Brook mount points, but didn't attach them to the PCB, instead relying on wire tension & solid wire (instead of stranded wire, visible at the screw terminals) to keep the board connected.
Ah, yeah, I see that now. And I suppose I'll have to do the same; the pitch on the Brooks is 2mm, but all the PCBs and components I can find online are 2.54mm (.1in), so there's no way to build a "socket" using pin headers, not easily.
I would suggest using a bit of hot glue for any largish components (anything that might move when you shake it) and to use rubber grommets when mounting to the case. A common problem you tend to have in electronics is vibrations causing solder joints to break, which is why you use rubber grommets to dampen vibrations and hot glue to lessen movement of larger components. It makes everything look messier (although when done well, it can still be pretty tidy), but after you've repaired broken solder points for the umpteenth time, you give into the hot glue.
So, rather than being "done", I ripped the entire top out and re-did it so it'd be flush this time.
It's not super-exciting, but:
New base layer. Joystick plate is mounted to the bottom of it; last time, I'd mounted it to the top. This will make the stick sit lower.
Top layer. Last time, I used 1/4" plywood, and the acrylic on top wasn't flush, so I'm using a slightly thinner piece of pressed hardboard this time.
I also didn't use any fasteners last time, and the acrylic has started to warp over time and stick up at the corners, so now I've got brass bolts.
Just a pic of the underside.
Mostly looks the same as before, but after some sanding tomorrow, everything should be flush and aligned a bit better than last time. Then, just mounting components and cutting some new wires.
After playing SF5 for an hour or so this morning, I hate the lower profile on the stick, so I bought a new, flat mounting plate so I can raise it back up again. Also a white dust washer, because why not?
Posts
I have extra of the wood. You'd just redo this side right?
Though I was thinking that I could get a thin material on the sides, screw or glue,to cover or hide it. Sort of like a sticker or graphic.
Because you should be using one of these:
if by hand, or one of these:
if you're plugging your tools in.
Then, you cut about a third of the way through from one side, flip the piece, and cut the rest of the way through from the other side.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Deluxe-Miter-Box-with-Saw-20-600D/100034395#
$15.
I personally loathe the skillsaw; it's inelegant, hard to keep on a line, and tears the shit out of wood unless your blade is nearly new. In my experience, at least.
A mitre box will do the job.
As will a circular saw. Do you have a wood blade in it? You must securely clamp the workpiece, and also clamp a guide rail for the saw baseplate to run along. If the pieces of wood are too small to allow for that, then break out the tenon saw or mitre box.
Thanks Again! OK then I guess I'm taking it apart then, I think the others are fine & fixed by sanding. I'll just redo the one really messed up piece. My dad probably has a miter box somewhere in his garage.
It's up to you, yeah. I mean, I'm a nitpicky perfectionist, so I'd recut that shit because compulsion. But maybe you're not like me, and are better suited to improvisation and adaptability.
Transplanting from the holiday forums:
I got this for Xmas:
Brook PS3/PS4 fight board. I'm hyped to finally use my fightstick on my PS4, since it's been collecting dust ever since I got rid of the 360. However, rather than just start soldering wires directly to the board, I kinda want to class it up and doing something like this (stolen from the SRK forums):
How'd he do that? The fightboard is 4x4cm, so the PCB below it is probably 5x6 or so? How did he connect the two (there are no good shots), or how would you connect the two? What's a good place to get these kinds of components?
***
Ok, the blank PCB is 5x7cm. I counted the pads.
I suppose if I wanted to get fancy, I could use pin connectors so that the fightboard could be removed from the breakout later. I like that idea, actually.
***
Ugh, I have a shopping list now, but actually finding what I want is difficult. I wonder if it'd be worth it to make a trip to Frys on the off chance that I can pick up and hold a few of these things in my hand to ensure what I'm getting is all the right sizes and stuff.
Edit: I see what he did. He soldered in male to male header pins (essential a stiff wire with a hard plastic sheath in the middle, using the sheath as a standoff) to connect up the 2 boards. Then he soldered wires from the bottom of the header pins to the green connectors, and flush cut the excess afterwards to keep it neat.
Edit2: On second look, he didn't even use header pins as standoffs to connect the 2 boards. He wired directly from the IO pins of the Brook board directly to the pins of the green screw terminals of the blank PCB. You can see the bare wires running from the Brook to the PCB without any standoffs in view. My guess, he's attached rubber standoffs to the 3 Brook mount points, but didn't attach them to the PCB, instead relying on wire tension & solid wire (instead of stranded wire, visible at the screw terminals) to keep the board connected.
7x5cm blank PCB/breadboard
pin headers, male and female
- 1x16
- 1x5
- 1x9
- 1x7
screw terminals
- 19 (20)
USB Type-B Jack socket connector
22x .110 quick disconnects
Wire (24AWG for running to buttons)
- Black
- Blue
Wire (30AWG for the pcb)
- Black
- <Whatever not black>
Cable Sleeving
Just need to figure out where to buy it all. Yes, I can (probably) order it all, but I'm one of those guys that really wants to hold things in his hand when he buys them, just to be certain that I got sizes right and things like that.
Ah, yeah, I see that now. And I suppose I'll have to do the same; the pitch on the Brooks is 2mm, but all the PCBs and components I can find online are 2.54mm (.1in), so there's no way to build a "socket" using pin headers, not easily.
Actually, does it even matter?
Stick some electrical tape between them, I guess.
Connected it to my PC, confirmed via ground tapping that everything works so far!
Still need to do some cleanup on the underside, but it works!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oW_s8j9DU78
It's not super-exciting, but:
New base layer. Joystick plate is mounted to the bottom of it; last time, I'd mounted it to the top. This will make the stick sit lower.
Top layer. Last time, I used 1/4" plywood, and the acrylic on top wasn't flush, so I'm using a slightly thinner piece of pressed hardboard this time.
I also didn't use any fasteners last time, and the acrylic has started to warp over time and stick up at the corners, so now I've got brass bolts.
Just a pic of the underside.
Mostly looks the same as before, but after some sanding tomorrow, everything should be flush and aligned a bit better than last time. Then, just mounting components and cutting some new wires.
Improved, Clean Wiring!
No more see-through bottom, but this should hold up without cracking as easy!
Lower Profile Stick, same throw range and sensitivity! (It's just mounted lower.)
Not much different here, but c'mon, as long as I'm taking pics...
Now, gotta figure out what to play with it, hehe.