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[Computer Build Thread] - Haswell? More like Has...damnit, I had something for this...

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Posts

  • toloveistorebel toloveistorebel Impressive. Most impressive. Central FLRegistered User regular
    Has anyone had any issues with the stock fan that comes with the CM Hyper 212 Evo? I got mine installed and the fan is super loud. I took it out and when I spin it with my finger it sounds like something is brushing on the inside. I haven't taken the sticker off yet to have a look. Waiting to chat with Cooler Master now. Has anyone else had this issue?

  • CabezoneCabezone Registered User regular
    Bucketman wrote: »
    Ok guys, what do you think of this build:
    http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2ONZL

    What's the computer for?

    toloveistorebel
  • Big DookieBig Dookie Smells great! Houston, TXRegistered User regular
    I picked up a Fractal Define R4 today to replace my current case that I'm not crazy about. I'm both excited about and dreading moving everything over to the new case.

    I got the windowed white version. It seems like every case is black nowadays, so I like the idea of having something a little different and unique. I'll put some pics up when it's done.

    Steam | Twitch
    Oculus: TheBigDookie | XBL: Dook | NNID: BigDookie
    toloveistorebel Snicketysnick
  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    Cabezone wrote: »
    Bucketman wrote: »
    Ok guys, what do you think of this build:
    http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2ONZL

    What's the computer for?

    General purpous and games, I have a video card that I bought recently that would fit in there, and I already have drives as well, just need a new Mobo/processor/RAM

  • chrishallett83chrishallett83 Hi! Registered User regular
    3x 760s are more powerful than a Titan.
    Bubby wrote: »
    Bubby wrote: »
    Alright so the Carbide 330R is my best bet for a quiet mid-tower case right? About to pull the trigger, I'm willing to pay more if anyone has any other suggestions. I'm also open to cases that might be slightly less quiet but are otherwise better all around, as I've heard the 330R has some issues in exchange for the silence.

    edit: The Obsidian 550d actually looks more enticing...

    People also rave about the Fractal Design Define R4. I believe the 550D (thats the silence oriented one right?) Is basically on par with a Define R4. Either would be a good choice. OR, NZXT's H line looks really sweet. Especially the H630 and H440. I think those are the correct models.

    EDIT: the H630 is a full tower.

    The H440 is cool but I'm not big on the exposed panels, though I know I'm in the minority. The 550D is just super modern looking with the aluminum, it's probably my favorite of the lot. Hopefully everything fits, also adding a 750gb 840 evo ssd and windows 8.1 to my existing alienware build, so that should be fun.

    Even with both the harddrive cages in it, the 550D has plenty of room to quadfire HD7990s, if that was a thing that is even possible to do.

  • toloveistorebel toloveistorebel Impressive. Most impressive. Central FLRegistered User regular
    3x 760s are more powerful than a Titan.
    Bubby wrote: »
    Bubby wrote: »
    Alright so the Carbide 330R is my best bet for a quiet mid-tower case right? About to pull the trigger, I'm willing to pay more if anyone has any other suggestions. I'm also open to cases that might be slightly less quiet but are otherwise better all around, as I've heard the 330R has some issues in exchange for the silence.

    edit: The Obsidian 550d actually looks more enticing...

    People also rave about the Fractal Design Define R4. I believe the 550D (thats the silence oriented one right?) Is basically on par with a Define R4. Either would be a good choice. OR, NZXT's H line looks really sweet. Especially the H630 and H440. I think those are the correct models.

    EDIT: the H630 is a full tower.

    The H440 is cool but I'm not big on the exposed panels, though I know I'm in the minority. The 550D is just super modern looking with the aluminum, it's probably my favorite of the lot. Hopefully everything fits, also adding a 750gb 840 evo ssd and windows 8.1 to my existing alienware build, so that should be fun.

    Even with both the harddrive cages in it, the 550D has plenty of room to quadfire HD7990s, if that was a thing that is even possible to do.

    Technically 2x 7990's are quadfire. 4 physical cards would be 8 GPUs! That would be crazy awesome. But impossibru.

  • chrishallett83chrishallett83 Hi! Registered User regular
    Yeah, I know, hence the closing phrase in that last sentence. I was just using 7990s as an example of a long card.

    toloveistorebel
  • chrishallett83chrishallett83 Hi! Registered User regular
    Although, now I'm wondering if it would be possible to have a double crossfire setup, with two 7990s driving three monitors, and another two 7990s driving three more monitors to make a 6 monitor wall-sized display. I know Eyefinity is meant to be able to drive up to 6 monitors, but meh, I wants more FPSs!

  • Banzai5150Banzai5150 Registered User regular
    So my 770 came in today while at work. I'm sick as a dog, but new shiny had to go in. How hard could it be to pull my old 460GTX out and slap in the 770? Yup! I push the latch on the 460 slot and pull the card up and the whole slot comes with it! It's a Gigabyte Z77x-UD3H board and has SLI so I figure, ok fuck it, I'll put it in the other slot for now and RMA this board as it's less than a year old. Put it in, forget to plug power on, but my screen lights up and says "Dumbfuck plug the power in your card". I rectify that and then I get a fan spin up, then it stops. This is when I'm really annoyed. Remove everything, unplug everything, just plug in the card and we boot up! Put everything else plugged in and we're in business. Long story short, when you figure it's only going to take 5 minutes to pop out the old card and put in the new one... it'll bite you in the ass every time!

    Not sure what to test the new card out on though, maybe I'll give Witcher 2 a go as I had some slowdowns previously.

    steam_sig.png
    Xbox Live: ObsoletePaper | Uplay: Banzai5150 | Playstation: ObsoletePaper
  • mr_michmr_mich Registered User regular
    My Cyborg RAT7 is dying and it's driving me nuts. Less than 2 years, and it randomly loses one (or both) of its axes and gets me killed in games. I guess that's what I get for trying to get a mouse that I can customize to my own hand...not realizing it's fucking Madcatz.

    Any recommendations? I was eyeing the G700 but it's apparently replaced by the G700S, which looks a bit silly. I'm also looking at the G602, which looks similarly silly. I'd really like to stick to Logitech this time, since my trusty MX Revolution lasted for like 5 years...and they've since discontinued it.

  • BubbyBubby Registered User regular
    I've been using the MS Intellimouse Explorer 3.0 for like 10 years, buying new ones every 3 or 4 years. I can't imagine ever going to something new.

    an_alt
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    I loved my Naga Hex so much that I bought a second one for when I travel. Both Hexes replaced MX518s. Haven't looked back; no issues.

  • Big DookieBig Dookie Smells great! Houston, TXRegistered User regular
    I can't decide on my fan configuration in the new case. I currently have 3 intake (2x140mm front, 1x120mm bottom) and 2 exhaust (1x140mm top, 1x140mm rear) in the new Define R4 case. I feel like the top exhaust fan may be defeating the purpose of the quiet case somewhat, since I'm having to remove that bit of sound insulation from the top slot to install the fan, which opens it up and just makes it louder. Would 3 intake and just the single exhaust on the back be a bad idea?

    FYI, I am overclocking my 3770k to 4.2 ghz using an EVO 212 and am running one of the EVGA windforce cards that exhausts into your case. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

    Steam | Twitch
    Oculus: TheBigDookie | XBL: Dook | NNID: BigDookie
  • BangarangBangarang Registered User regular
    Big Dookie wrote: »
    I can't decide on my fan configuration in the new case. I currently have 3 intake (2x140mm front, 1x120mm bottom) and 2 exhaust (1x140mm top, 1x140mm rear) in the new Define R4 case. I feel like the top exhaust fan may be defeating the purpose of the quiet case somewhat, since I'm having to remove that bit of sound insulation from the top slot to install the fan, which opens it up and just makes it louder. Would 3 intake and just the single exhaust on the back be a bad idea?

    FYI, I am overclocking my 3770k to 4.2 ghz using an EVO 212 and am running one of the EVGA windforce cards that exhausts into your case. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

    I don't have much input for you, but I'm chiming in because I also have an airflow question. My HTPC is a BitFenix Prodigy (mITX) with an ASUS P8z77-iDeluxe, 3570K, noctua d14, and a 7850. The two fans on the d14 are using a splitter to plug into the CPU fan plug on the mobo. The 140mm case fan directly behind the d14 is plugged into the only (I think) case fan plug on the mobo. I then have a 200mm fan on the front panel and a 140mm fan in the front position on the top panel both intaking. I have another 140mm that I intended to put in the second spot on the top panel, but the d14 is too big (LOL). The two intake fans are connected to molex and have been running at 100% RPM for about 1 1/2 years. The sound has fi ally gotten to me and I ordered a NZXT fan controller (the one with analog sliders, the LCD ones seem kinda shifty and untrustworthy). My question is, should I just put the two intake fans on the controller, or should I move everything over? I'm assuming that the mobo will do a better job throttling the CPU fans than I will. Thoughts? Should I be rearranging/replacing any of these fans after 18 months of such hard use? Thanks in advance :)

  • PirusuPirusu Pierce Registered User regular
    Big Dookie wrote: »
    I can't decide on my fan configuration in the new case. I currently have 3 intake (2x140mm front, 1x120mm bottom) and 2 exhaust (1x140mm top, 1x140mm rear) in the new Define R4 case. I feel like the top exhaust fan may be defeating the purpose of the quiet case somewhat, since I'm having to remove that bit of sound insulation from the top slot to install the fan, which opens it up and just makes it louder. Would 3 intake and just the single exhaust on the back be a bad idea?

    FYI, I am overclocking my 3770k to 4.2 ghz using an EVO 212 and am running one of the EVGA windforce cards that exhausts into your case. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

    The point of the intakes is to bring in cool air, and the exhausts exhaust hot air. There are essentially two "methodologies" to PC cooling: Positive Pressure and Negative Pressure. Positive pressure can basically be boiled down to more cfm as intake than exhaust. The benefits to this are less dust inside your PC, with the downside being less overall cooling ability. Negative pressure is basically more cfm as exhaust than intake, and is generally better at overall cooling, but obviously increases dust (and in your case, noise).

    Honestly, it's not going to hurt anything to just test it out. Remove it, and see if they temperatures you're seeing are worth the reduced noise.
    Bangarang wrote: »
    Big Dookie wrote: »
    I can't decide on my fan configuration in the new case. I currently have 3 intake (2x140mm front, 1x120mm bottom) and 2 exhaust (1x140mm top, 1x140mm rear) in the new Define R4 case. I feel like the top exhaust fan may be defeating the purpose of the quiet case somewhat, since I'm having to remove that bit of sound insulation from the top slot to install the fan, which opens it up and just makes it louder. Would 3 intake and just the single exhaust on the back be a bad idea?

    FYI, I am overclocking my 3770k to 4.2 ghz using an EVO 212 and am running one of the EVGA windforce cards that exhausts into your case. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

    I don't have much input for you, but I'm chiming in because I also have an airflow question. My HTPC is a BitFenix Prodigy (mITX) with an ASUS P8z77-iDeluxe, 3570K, noctua d14, and a 7850. The two fans on the d14 are using a splitter to plug into the CPU fan plug on the mobo. The 140mm case fan directly behind the d14 is plugged into the only (I think) case fan plug on the mobo. I then have a 200mm fan on the front panel and a 140mm fan in the front position on the top panel both intaking. I have another 140mm that I intended to put in the second spot on the top panel, but the d14 is too big (LOL). The two intake fans are connected to molex and have been running at 100% RPM for about 1 1/2 years. The sound has fi ally gotten to me and I ordered a NZXT fan controller (the one with analog sliders, the LCD ones seem kinda shifty and untrustworthy). My question is, should I just put the two intake fans on the controller, or should I move everything over? I'm assuming that the mobo will do a better job throttling the CPU fans than I will. Thoughts? Should I be rearranging/replacing any of these fans after 18 months of such hard use? Thanks in advance :)

    I'd personally leave the CPU fans on the D14 attached to the cpu fan header (if they are both PWM fans). As long as the fans spin freely and don't make any weird motor noise (whines, etc) then you shouldn't worry about replacing them - just keep them clean.

    toloveistorebel
  • toloveistorebel toloveistorebel Impressive. Most impressive. Central FLRegistered User regular
    .
    Big Dookie wrote: »
    I can't decide on my fan configuration in the new case. I currently have 3 intake (2x140mm front, 1x120mm bottom) and 2 exhaust (1x140mm top, 1x140mm rear) in the new Define R4 case. I feel like the top exhaust fan may be defeating the purpose of the quiet case somewhat, since I'm having to remove that bit of sound insulation from the top slot to install the fan, which opens it up and just makes it louder. Would 3 intake and just the single exhaust on the back be a bad idea?

    FYI, I am overclocking my 3770k to 4.2 ghz using an EVO 212 and am running one of the EVGA windforce cards that exhausts into your case. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

    Positive pressure is good but I feel three intake and only one exhaust is a bit too far off balance. You might end up with too much air going into the case with nowhere to go and it just stagnates. Because of the R4's design there's not a lot of vents and crevices for the air to escape. I would say if you really want to drop down to just one exhaust, you might want to also drop down to two intakes. Unless you can really crank up the back fan and lower the RPMs on the intakes. That may help balance it. It may be best to just try a few orientations.
    Bangarang wrote: »
    Big Dookie wrote: »
    I can't decide on my fan configuration in the new case. I currently have 3 intake (2x140mm front, 1x120mm bottom) and 2 exhaust (1x140mm top, 1x140mm rear) in the new Define R4 case. I feel like the top exhaust fan may be defeating the purpose of the quiet case somewhat, since I'm having to remove that bit of sound insulation from the top slot to install the fan, which opens it up and just makes it louder. Would 3 intake and just the single exhaust on the back be a bad idea?

    FYI, I am overclocking my 3770k to 4.2 ghz using an EVO 212 and am running one of the EVGA windforce cards that exhausts into your case. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

    I don't have much input for you, but I'm chiming in because I also have an airflow question. My HTPC is a BitFenix Prodigy (mITX) with an ASUS P8z77-iDeluxe, 3570K, noctua d14, and a 7850. The two fans on the d14 are using a splitter to plug into the CPU fan plug on the mobo. The 140mm case fan directly behind the d14 is plugged into the only (I think) case fan plug on the mobo. I then have a 200mm fan on the front panel and a 140mm fan in the front position on the top panel both intaking. I have another 140mm that I intended to put in the second spot on the top panel, but the d14 is too big (LOL). The two intake fans are connected to molex and have been running at 100% RPM for about 1 1/2 years. The sound has fi ally gotten to me and I ordered a NZXT fan controller (the one with analog sliders, the LCD ones seem kinda shifty and untrustworthy). My question is, should I just put the two intake fans on the controller, or should I move everything over? I'm assuming that the mobo will do a better job throttling the CPU fans than I will. Thoughts? Should I be rearranging/replacing any of these fans after 18 months of such hard use? Thanks in advance :)

    I just installed the Sentry Mix 2 yesterday and filled up all 6 channels with my 6 case fans. I don't really know that case very well or what that fan orientation does for airflow. But I would say that you should definitely throw all your fans on it that you can, except you CPU fans. BUT, some people probably put their CPU fans on there too.

  • tsmvengytsmvengy Registered User regular
    Bangarang wrote: »
    Big Dookie wrote: »
    I can't decide on my fan configuration in the new case. I currently have 3 intake (2x140mm front, 1x120mm bottom) and 2 exhaust (1x140mm top, 1x140mm rear) in the new Define R4 case. I feel like the top exhaust fan may be defeating the purpose of the quiet case somewhat, since I'm having to remove that bit of sound insulation from the top slot to install the fan, which opens it up and just makes it louder. Would 3 intake and just the single exhaust on the back be a bad idea?

    FYI, I am overclocking my 3770k to 4.2 ghz using an EVO 212 and am running one of the EVGA windforce cards that exhausts into your case. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

    I don't have much input for you, but I'm chiming in because I also have an airflow question. My HTPC is a BitFenix Prodigy (mITX) with an ASUS P8z77-iDeluxe, 3570K, noctua d14, and a 7850. The two fans on the d14 are using a splitter to plug into the CPU fan plug on the mobo. The 140mm case fan directly behind the d14 is plugged into the only (I think) case fan plug on the mobo. I then have a 200mm fan on the front panel and a 140mm fan in the front position on the top panel both intaking. I have another 140mm that I intended to put in the second spot on the top panel, but the d14 is too big (LOL). The two intake fans are connected to molex and have been running at 100% RPM for about 1 1/2 years. The sound has fi ally gotten to me and I ordered a NZXT fan controller (the one with analog sliders, the LCD ones seem kinda shifty and untrustworthy). My question is, should I just put the two intake fans on the controller, or should I move everything over? I'm assuming that the mobo will do a better job throttling the CPU fans than I will. Thoughts? Should I be rearranging/replacing any of these fans after 18 months of such hard use? Thanks in advance :)

    Put your intakes and exhaust on the controller. CPU fans should stay on the pwm mobo header.

    steam_sig.png
    Bear is DrivingBanzai5150Pirusuchrishallett83Gaslight
  • chrishallett83chrishallett83 Hi! Registered User regular
    @Alecthar where are you? We're overdue for a new thread!

    toloveistorebel Ioloan_alt
  • CormacCormac Registered User regular
    mr_mich wrote: »
    My Cyborg RAT7 is dying and it's driving me nuts. Less than 2 years, and it randomly loses one (or both) of its axes and gets me killed in games. I guess that's what I get for trying to get a mouse that I can customize to my own hand...not realizing it's fucking Madcatz.

    Any recommendations? I was eyeing the G700 but it's apparently replaced by the G700S, which looks a bit silly. I'm also looking at the G602, which looks similarly silly. I'd really like to stick to Logitech this time, since my trusty MX Revolution lasted for like 5 years...and they've since discontinued it.

    The flakey sensor and the fact that using the RAT7 made my hands physically hurt is what made me switch to a G500. It's become my favorite general purpose and gaming mouse, but for MMO's I use a G600 and it's great too.

    Steam: Gridlynk | PSN: Gridlynk | Destiny: Gridlynk | Battlefield 1: Gridlynk
  • Big DookieBig Dookie Smells great! Houston, TXRegistered User regular
    .
    Big Dookie wrote: »
    I can't decide on my fan configuration in the new case. I currently have 3 intake (2x140mm front, 1x120mm bottom) and 2 exhaust (1x140mm top, 1x140mm rear) in the new Define R4 case. I feel like the top exhaust fan may be defeating the purpose of the quiet case somewhat, since I'm having to remove that bit of sound insulation from the top slot to install the fan, which opens it up and just makes it louder. Would 3 intake and just the single exhaust on the back be a bad idea?

    FYI, I am overclocking my 3770k to 4.2 ghz using an EVO 212 and am running one of the EVGA windforce cards that exhausts into your case. Not sure if that makes a difference or not.

    Positive pressure is good but I feel three intake and only one exhaust is a bit too far off balance. You might end up with too much air going into the case with nowhere to go and it just stagnates. Because of the R4's design there's not a lot of vents and crevices for the air to escape. I would say if you really want to drop down to just one exhaust, you might want to also drop down to two intakes. Unless you can really crank up the back fan and lower the RPMs on the intakes. That may help balance it. It may be best to just try a few orientations.

    Good idea, I'll try removing the bottom fan perhaps and see how that affects it. If temps go up too much I'll just go ahead and go back to my original configuration. Even though it has one more fan than my old case, it's definitely still quieter with all the noise insulating stuff in the R4, so I can't really complain too much either way. Thanks!

    Steam | Twitch
    Oculus: TheBigDookie | XBL: Dook | NNID: BigDookie
  • LoveIsUnityLoveIsUnity Registered User regular
    I am looking to build a new rig soon, and I'm wondering what's going on in the $800-$1000 range these days?

    I won't need a monitor, keyboard, mouse or anything like that, but I would like to get a case that deals with heat a bit better than the Cooler Master I have right now. I have a 1 gig HD that I can use as a secondary drive, but I would like to finally upgrade to an SSD for most of my programs. I'm also hoping that I could build something in this range that would play well with Steam's Big Picture Mode so I can hook my pc up for the tv every once in a while.

    Does anyone have any ideas for this price range?

    Is it worth it to get an i7, or should I stick with the i5, which is what I see get thrown around the most?

    I'm hoping to be able to play The Witcher 3 without too many issues when that comes out. Do you think that's possible with my budget?

    steam_sig.png
  • toloveistorebel toloveistorebel Impressive. Most impressive. Central FLRegistered User regular
    I am looking to build a new rig soon, and I'm wondering what's going on in the $800-$1000 range these days?

    I won't need a monitor, keyboard, mouse or anything like that, but I would like to get a case that deals with heat a bit better than the Cooler Master I have right now. I have a 1 gig HD that I can use as a secondary drive, but I would like to finally upgrade to an SSD for most of my programs. I'm also hoping that I could build something in this range that would play well with Steam's Big Picture Mode so I can hook my pc up for the tv every once in a while.

    Does anyone have any ideas for this price range?

    Is it worth it to get an i7, or should I stick with the i5, which is what I see get thrown around the most?

    I'm hoping to be able to play The Witcher 3 without too many issues when that comes out. Do you think that's possible with my budget?

    Sorry we skipped you! Sometimes I think we just assume that 5 other people are going to throw down a pcpartpicker list within the first 5 minutes and then we forget. I think that's what happened regarding me at least because I remember seeing your post now. Let me take a look at some things and I'll have a build for you. You'll definitely be able to reach your goals with that budget I think.

    I know you said you won't need a keyboard, mouse, monitor, etc. What about a copy of Windows? Will that need to be included in the budget? Since you want to take advantage of Big Picture, do you want a gamepad/360 controller included in the cost as well?

  • toloveistorebel toloveistorebel Impressive. Most impressive. Central FLRegistered User regular
    edited February 2014
    I am looking to build a new rig soon, and I'm wondering what's going on in the $800-$1000 range these days?

    I won't need a monitor, keyboard, mouse or anything like that, but I would like to get a case that deals with heat a bit better than the Cooler Master I have right now. I have a 1 gig HD that I can use as a secondary drive, but I would like to finally upgrade to an SSD for most of my programs. I'm also hoping that I could build something in this range that would play well with Steam's Big Picture Mode so I can hook my pc up for the tv every once in a while.

    Does anyone have any ideas for this price range?

    Is it worth it to get an i7, or should I stick with the i5, which is what I see get thrown around the most?

    I'm hoping to be able to play The Witcher 3 without too many issues when that comes out. Do you think that's possible with my budget?

    Alright here you go. Its at the upper end of your budget but will give you a great system that should last you a long time. If you wanted to bring it down more in the middle of your budget you could easily get an Nvidia GTX 760 instead of the 770. The 770 will be better for 1080P and The Witcher 3 at max settings. 760 would be a great card but its longevity will be in question with more demanding games being released in the future. Also, if you live near a Microcenter, you can get that CPU for $159 right now. (I swear next time I move I'm going to move near a Microcenter. And I will move there specifically for that reason.)

    PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2SQs0
    Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2SQs0/by_merchant/
    Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2SQs0/benchmarks/

    CPU: Intel Core i5-4570 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($196.98 @ Amazon)
    Motherboard: ASRock B85M Pro4 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($74.99 @ Newegg)
    Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Newegg)
    Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($122.99 @ NCIX US)
    Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($319.99 @ NCIX US)
    Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.99 @ NCIX US)
    Power Supply: SeaSonic 450W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Amazon)
    Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($14.99 @ Newegg)
    Total: $979.91
    (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
    (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-02-13 20:54 EST-0500)

    EDIT: Also, the i7 isn't worth it unless you do a lot of photo/video editing and some other specific things. If you're just wanting a good multipurpose machine that will game, then an i5 is what you want. An i7 offers no benefit for gaming. (Though I kinda call that into question for some games. I remember reading through some Planetside 2 boards and people were saying they were getting much better results when upgrading for Core i5's to Core i7's. But I'm not sure any true testing has been done on that game. It was poorly optimized when it first came out.)

    toloveistorebel on
    IoloHyphyKezzyLoveIsUnity
  • CycloneRangerCycloneRanger Registered User regular
    edited February 2014
    What's the story with Microcenter's CPU deals, anyway? They seem to do those fairly often, and they've got some pretty huge discounts. They recently had a 4670K going for $50 less than I paid for mine a few months ago, and I got mine on an Amazon sale.

    Is it just an aggressive loss leader to get nerds into a physical store? I can't imagine they're turning a profit on those CPUs.

    CycloneRanger on
    toloveistorebel
  • RiusRius Registered User regular
    You have it right, basically. Their CPU deals are loss leaders to get people in the door. You'll note they don't ship those deals, heh.

  • chrishallett83chrishallett83 Hi! Registered User regular
    Teach me how to NAS with a RAID setup for a friend to backup all his work onto, go!

  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Rius wrote: »
    You have it right, basically. Their CPU deals are loss leaders to get people in the door. You'll note they don't ship those deals, heh.

    Pretty much this. When I bought mine at a MC, they were locked behind a case, so I had to get a sales associate. So he had the opportunity to try to sell me addons like motherboards and video cards. Luckily, he wasn't as pushy as I was expecting him to be.

  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    Went to micro center to buy a party, wound up buying everything for a new machine, built it, but now Windows won't boot and it can't repair the issue. I had a digitally downloaded version of Windows 7, am I screwed?

  • PirusuPirusu Pierce Registered User regular
    Bucketman wrote: »
    Went to micro center to buy a party, wound up buying everything for a new machine, built it, but now Windows won't boot and it can't repair the issue. I had a digitally downloaded version of Windows 7, am I screwed?

    Generally if you're installing all new hardware Windows throws a fit, and won't boot. The only solution is to completely reinstall. I recently had a similar issue with my wife's new machine, and a digitally downloaded copy of Windows.

    Step 1) Get Windows 7: Either via a USB Drive, A friend's physical copy, or see if you can re-download it from Microsoft on a different machine.
    Step 2) Install Windows 7 again (You can install it "over" your current version or on a completely new partition).
    Step 3) Once you've got Windows 7 re-installed, you can download and use one of the many free CD Key finding programs, and point it to your Windows.old directory if you installed over your last version of Windows, or point it to the first installation on a different partition.
    Step 4) Use the CD key of the previously installed Windows version to validate your current install.

  • JeixJeix Registered User regular
    Pirusu wrote: »
    Bucketman wrote: »
    Went to micro center to buy a party, wound up buying everything for a new machine, built it, but now Windows won't boot and it can't repair the issue. I had a digitally downloaded version of Windows 7, am I screwed?

    Generally if you're installing all new hardware Windows throws a fit, and won't boot. The only solution is to completely reinstall. I recently had a similar issue with my wife's new machine, and a digitally downloaded copy of Windows.

    Step 1) Get Windows 7: Either via a USB Drive, A friend's physical copy, or see if you can re-download it from Microsoft on a different machine.
    Step 2) Install Windows 7 again (You can install it "over" your current version or on a completely new partition).
    Step 3) Once you've got Windows 7 re-installed, you can download and use one of the many free CD Key finding programs, and point it to your Windows.old directory if you installed over your last version of Windows, or point it to the first installation on a different partition.
    Step 4) Use the CD key of the previously installed Windows version to validate your current install.

    Oh man I hope you haven't reinstalled yet. I totally just did the same thing, I just upgraded my motherboard, cpu, and ram on Tuesday night. Of course I tried using the same hard drive and bam, blue screen every time I tried to get into windows. I spent a bit searching online and finally found what seemed like a relatively unknown way to fix it. You can read the guide about doing that at http://www.dowdandassociates.com/blog/content/howto-repair-windows-7-install-after-replacing-motherboard/

    Basically you need another pc to download drivers to a usb stick and install them via command prompt from the repair tool. All I had to do was force it to install my sata driver and Windows loaded fine.

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  • Big DookieBig Dookie Smells great! Houston, TXRegistered User regular
    edited February 2014
    Finished my move to the white Define R4 case. I really like the way if looks! The red power LED surprised me since I thought I'd read online that it was blue, but I actually prefer the red/white color scheme now that I see it in person. I even went and purchased a red LED fan to go with it.

    Spoilered for huge.
    Interior of case. There's way less clutter in this build, at least that is visible from this side. Behind the MB it's a mess though, but no one will ever see that anyway.

    image_zps4e60389c.jpg


    Shot of the window with the red LED fan. I thought about using red at the top, but I didn't case for how brightly it shone through the top fan slot, so I left a normal non-LED fan there.

    image_zps64abe621.jpg


    One more shot from the other side. It looks so good!

    image_zpsd41dbc79.jpg


    Overall I'm quite pleased with it and I think I'll be sticking with this one for a long while.

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  • PirusuPirusu Pierce Registered User regular
    Jeix wrote: »

    Oh man I hope you haven't reinstalled yet. I totally just did the same thing, I just upgraded my motherboard, cpu, and ram on Tuesday night. Of course I tried using the same hard drive and bam, blue screen every time I tried to get into windows. I spent a bit searching online and finally found what seemed like a relatively unknown way to fix it. You can read the guide about doing that at http://www.dowdandassociates.com/blog/content/howto-repair-windows-7-install-after-replacing-motherboard/

    Basically you need another pc to download drivers to a usb stick and install them via command prompt from the repair tool. All I had to do was force it to install my sata driver and Windows loaded fine.

    Where were you last month? :(

  • toloveistorebel toloveistorebel Impressive. Most impressive. Central FLRegistered User regular
    Bucketman wrote: »
    Went to micro center to buy a party, wound up buying everything for a new machine, built it, but now Windows won't boot and it can't repair the issue. I had a digitally downloaded version of Windows 7, am I screwed?

    Even more reason for me to move closer to a Microcenter someday.....

    Iolo
  • FeloniousmozFeloniousmoz Registered User regular
    Wow was pretty sure I was decided on the black R4 but that looks great.

    Battlenet: FeloniousMoz#1286
  • toloveistorebel toloveistorebel Impressive. Most impressive. Central FLRegistered User regular
    I love the inside of the white R4. But honestly I'm not a big fan of the outside. I think probably because anytime I see white with a little bit of black highlights I immediately think of Stormtroopers. The outside just needs more black.

    But regardless, white R4 builds still look awesome.

  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    well too late, I had already downloaded and booted up an install of Windows 7 64bit, and hey this is fun, it keeps freezing, appearently Windows 7 doesn't like USB devices running during install, so after the initial install I have to unplug all the USB devices including my mouse and keyboard.

    Honestly I'm almost to the point of just buying a copy of Windows 8 as shitty as it is

  • Big DookieBig Dookie Smells great! Houston, TXRegistered User regular
    You should totally get Windows 8, because it is actually pretty great.

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  • CabezoneCabezone Registered User regular
    Windows 8 is pretty damn good after they released the 8.1 update. I see no reason for ti not to be the default gamer install for new builds.

    GnomeTank
  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    I'd love a new video card...but the chances of me paying the bitcoin fueled gouged up prices for the R290 I want is slim to none. I love this new trend of going hundreds of dollars over MSRP because bitcoin miners are using them. Fun stuff.

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    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
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  • PirusuPirusu Pierce Registered User regular
    Bucketman wrote: »
    well too late, I had already downloaded and booted up an install of Windows 7 64bit, and hey this is fun, it keeps freezing, appearently Windows 7 doesn't like USB devices running during install, so after the initial install I have to unplug all the USB devices including my mouse and keyboard.

    Honestly I'm almost to the point of just buying a copy of Windows 8 as shitty as it is

    Make sure they aren't plugged into USB3.0 ports, and it isn't a wireless device. I also had this problem...ended up using the wired keyboard from my PC, and the an old 5 dollar GE mouse from walmart, both plugged into the front USB ports. :/

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