Tonight I'm pretty pissed. I'm getting ready to paint my two Dwarven Forge kickstarters and some of my Reaper Bones. I undercoated them with the black spray paint that I always undercoat minis.
The paint is still tacky and sticky.
Is this my paint or is it the plastic that they've used to make their stuff?
This is made from their "dwarvenite." So not the dental stone original ones.
Friend Safari Code: 0189-8920-9235
0
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited March 2015
Just to prove I'm actually hobbying here... I have some pics of unfinished models. I'm slowly trying to rebuild my Space Marines, this time as Imperial Fists. My income is limited, but I did manage to spend some tax money on an airbrush, so I plan to start using that to help speed up the painting time. I guess I need to start practicing with it, huh? Anyway, here are some models. I wanted to show off the Forge World bits I've gotten.
The whole new squad+.
My character models. I'm not happy with all of them. The SM Commander boxed set, the first one, I'm not happy with the angle of his pistol arm. The one with bolt pistol/power fist, I may take that PF off and sub in an arm with a power sword. I don't have enough swords in my IF army.
I would have preferred to have a Mk IV head on this guy, but he turned out pretty good. The pistol is a bit off, but I think I might be the only one who will notice it. I love the power fist, and the plasma pistol is unique. I went all out on this one. FW bionic arm and leg, FW IF torso, GW IF command upgrade
kit shoulder pads and back banner, and I put a FW brass etch IF symbol on his power fist.
My five Imperial Fist torso models.
The inevitable dude looking at his auspex, which I'm going to try to turn into a neat looking screen, and a dude about to reload his weapon, and I imagine is saying his litanies of proper loading to appease the machine spirit of his magazine before jamming that sucker in.
All in all, I tried to add as much detail to these guys as I could. I used a bunch of purity seals, added some brass etch IF symbols here and there to knee pads and the like. I couldn't figure out how to make my chaplain in terminator armor look like a member of the IF until I realized one of the brass etch symbols would fit on his right shoulder pad. I'm pretty pleased with how all this turned out.
Tonight I'm pretty pissed. I'm getting ready to paint my two Dwarven Forge kickstarters and some of my Reaper Bones. I undercoated them with the black spray paint that I always undercoat minis.
The paint is still tacky and sticky.
Is this my paint or is it the plastic that they've used to make their stuff?
I have a lot of the Dwarven Forge unpainted kickstarter stuff. Had the same issue till I washed them very well and let them dry over night.
0
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Clean yoooour mould lines bro! And drill out those barrels.
Sergeant roboleg looks badass.
I'm afraid to drill barrels. I did that on my IG and (although they were metal, so big difference there) I ended up drilling thru the sides of barrels.
But... since I can't exactly start painting them yet... I guess I start on mold lines and barrel drilling tonight.
EDIT: Honestly... I guess if I'm trying to do them to the best of my ability, I really should do all the things. Right?
valhalla130 on
0
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
While I hungrily wait for @J to post more WIP shots of his stupid-good Cryx work, I took a cue from his earlier assurances and ordered a new base for one of my McVey miniatures. Not sure I'll paint her right now, but I at least have an idea and that's a nice development. While I was picking it up, I also grabbed a bottle of SWM's armor wash, recalling a degree of praise for it. Maybe I'm making that up. Whatever the case, experiments! And finally, I picked up a set of bases for my Tohaa stuff.
... Now, to just make some of these things less plans and more realities. Painted for 20 minutes yesterday and absolutely hated the result, so I'll be redoing that. Hrmm. I'm going to blame this incredibly crap winter for my poor progress. :P
Reaper's Bones don't necessarily like being spray painted. I've had luck with Vallejo Primer but Reaper doesn't even recommend using primer at all.
You can find lots of info and opinions on their forums.
Then again, aren't Dwarven Forge made of dental stone and not plastic? Maybe the problem is with your paint.
To add another voice to this: I've recently started painting some of my Bones, and I've found (as noted on the Reaper forums) that the Army Painter spray primers work pretty well. It helps to apply the spray lightly, and leave a fan on them after spraying for a few minutes to help dry them out (this might be a function of my local atmosphere, though). I also wash my Bones with soap and water then air-dry as directed before doing any painting; I've noted a definite difference between washed and unwashed minis and how the spray or paints take to the surface.
While I hungrily wait for @J to post more WIP shots of his stupid-good Cryx work, I took a cue from his earlier assurances and ordered a new base for one of my McVey miniatures. Not sure I'll paint her right now, but I at least have an idea and that's a nice development.
Tonight I'm pretty pissed. I'm getting ready to paint my two Dwarven Forge kickstarters and some of my Reaper Bones. I undercoated them with the black spray paint that I always undercoat minis.
The paint is still tacky and sticky.
Is this my paint or is it the plastic that they've used to make their stuff?
I have a lot of the Dwarven Forge unpainted kickstarter stuff. Had the same issue till I washed them very well and let them dry over night.
I didn't wash the Dwarven Forge stuff. So that is definitely my bad. The Bones mini that I primed I scrubbed the everloving crap out of that one. Into the vat of Purple Power they go. And then I'll just use my Vallejo primer through my airbrush. I was just trying to save myself some clean-up time.
Friend Safari Code: 0189-8920-9235
0
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
How do you drill gun barrels and make sure they're centered? I keep drilling to one side of the barrel, even if it looks even when I start.
I'll take some of the remaining marines, which include a few heavy-weapon gunners (I originally made these guys as counts-as legion of the damned). All in all, the converting wasn't too difficult, just required some creative cutting. Sometimes whole arms, sometimes elbow/forearm replacements, a bit of greenstuffing to fill gaps. The biggest help was actually having a bunch of fancy 3rd party shoulder pads (like the ones on the 2nd and 4th guy from that picture), which did wonders in hiding weird joints and meshing with the aesthetic. Regular marine pads are simply too small, and dont have enough bling. That plasmagunner has a regular pad, and I had to bulk it out with spikes (and even then, it looks a bit weedy in comparison)
Instead of stripping painted ones, just grab some new ones on the cheap from ebay. I got two DV sets of these guys for like 15 dollars or something.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited March 2015
I've always had trouble with mold lines. Always. No matter how much I scraped with a hobby knife, they always appeared.
So today I bought the really expensive GW mold line removal tool and this sucker is legit. I just finished removing all the mold lines on these models in about 30 minutes, and I'm halfway done drilling barrels. Imagine how much easier it is to drill the barrels correctly when I put a small starter hole in the middle as suggested above.
The tool was expensive, even with the local store's 10% discount, but at this point, with mold lines removed from arms, guns, helmets, legs, and backpacks in no time flat, I am happy with that purchase.
So after drilling and pinning the bases of 40 kabalites so that I could airbrush and paint them separately from the bases, I've concluded that although this process works, it is a HUGE pain in the ass. Particularly for attaching them to the bases, which unless the pins sticking out are exactly straight doesn't work out right very often (which is almost always the case for DE, since their legs are spindly and bent).
Anyone have an easier way for 1) supporting minis so I can paint them separately from the base 2) attaching them when done?
2) could be as simple as superglue, but obviously not as robust.
Anyone have an easier way for 1) supporting minis so I can paint them separately from the base 2) attaching them when done?
Whenever I need to paint separately from bases, i just glue one foot of the model to a blank base (using a tiny amount of superglue or something easy to remove). I've got a bunch of crappy bases that I just reuse as painting standins. Paint the dudes, paint the bases, remove the dudes from the standin-bases, pin the dudes to the new bases, and paint any touchups.
I FUCKIN HATE mold lines.
Alright, I'm gonna come clear here: I haven't actually used the tool, but I happen to even keep a separate set of files for the metal minis, because of what the metal does to them. I would imagine the remover (which is supposed to be a one-step tool with no post-processing required) should be kept in perfect shape, so that your plastic surface is as smooth as possible once you're done with it - so I wouldn't touch metal with it.
BUT I'm willing to defer to the judgment of Accualt, given that he's actually used one in this way.
While we're on this discussion, what do you guys do to separate pieces or remove things bigger than moldlines? Some sort of saw? I feel like relying on my exacto blade is going to cost me a finger eventually.
0
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I was trying to remove an arm last night and it cost me a chunk out of the leg of the mini.
Well crap I used to much of the Army Painter Matt Varnish or something on my Star Wars Imperial Officers and now I got a sort of frosting effect at one place... How does one fix this? Just paint over it perhaps?
Posts
The paint is still tacky and sticky.
Is this my paint or is it the plastic that they've used to make their stuff?
You can find lots of info and opinions on their forums.
Then again, aren't Dwarven Forge made of dental stone and not plastic? Maybe the problem is with your paint.
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
The whole new squad+.
My character models. I'm not happy with all of them. The SM Commander boxed set, the first one, I'm not happy with the angle of his pistol arm. The one with bolt pistol/power fist, I may take that PF off and sub in an arm with a power sword. I don't have enough swords in my IF army.
I would have preferred to have a Mk IV head on this guy, but he turned out pretty good. The pistol is a bit off, but I think I might be the only one who will notice it. I love the power fist, and the plasma pistol is unique. I went all out on this one. FW bionic arm and leg, FW IF torso, GW IF command upgrade
kit shoulder pads and back banner, and I put a FW brass etch IF symbol on his power fist.
My five Imperial Fist torso models.
The inevitable dude looking at his auspex, which I'm going to try to turn into a neat looking screen, and a dude about to reload his weapon, and I imagine is saying his litanies of proper loading to appease the machine spirit of his magazine before jamming that sucker in.
All in all, I tried to add as much detail to these guys as I could. I used a bunch of purity seals, added some brass etch IF symbols here and there to knee pads and the like. I couldn't figure out how to make my chaplain in terminator armor look like a member of the IF until I realized one of the brass etch symbols would fit on his right shoulder pad. I'm pretty pleased with how all this turned out.
Sergeant roboleg looks badass.
I have a lot of the Dwarven Forge unpainted kickstarter stuff. Had the same issue till I washed them very well and let them dry over night.
I'm afraid to drill barrels. I did that on my IG and (although they were metal, so big difference there) I ended up drilling thru the sides of barrels.
But... since I can't exactly start painting them yet... I guess I start on mold lines and barrel drilling tonight.
EDIT: Honestly... I guess if I'm trying to do them to the best of my ability, I really should do all the things. Right?
... Now, to just make some of these things less plans and more realities. Painted for 20 minutes yesterday and absolutely hated the result, so I'll be redoing that. Hrmm. I'm going to blame this incredibly crap winter for my poor progress. :P
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
To add another voice to this: I've recently started painting some of my Bones, and I've found (as noted on the Reaper forums) that the Army Painter spray primers work pretty well. It helps to apply the spray lightly, and leave a fan on them after spraying for a few minutes to help dry them out (this might be a function of my local atmosphere, though). I also wash my Bones with soap and water then air-dry as directed before doing any painting; I've noted a definite difference between washed and unwashed minis and how the spray or paints take to the surface.
How polite of them!
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Too busy surfin' 8-)
I did build him a buddy though.
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/286311-47th-co-nl-showcase-konrad-curze-first-claw-p13/page-13#entry3978161
slightly vexing, but i can't deny the talent or the amount of work that has gone in there...
Steam ID: Obos Vent: Obos
I didn't wash the Dwarven Forge stuff. So that is definitely my bad. The Bones mini that I primed I scrubbed the everloving crap out of that one. Into the vat of Purple Power they go. And then I'll just use my Vallejo primer through my airbrush. I was just trying to save myself some clean-up time.
It helps a lot
Also, these assholes have way too much filigree (which my camera settings made look really grainly. Theyre much smoother I swear!). 7 More to go!
An In-Depth Look At How Dungeon & Dragons New Miniatures Are Made
Instead of stripping painted ones, just grab some new ones on the cheap from ebay. I got two DV sets of these guys for like 15 dollars or something.
http://www.waronthetable.com
So today I bought the really expensive GW mold line removal tool and this sucker is legit. I just finished removing all the mold lines on these models in about 30 minutes, and I'm halfway done drilling barrels. Imagine how much easier it is to drill the barrels correctly when I put a small starter hole in the middle as suggested above.
The tool was expensive, even with the local store's 10% discount, but at this point, with mold lines removed from arms, guns, helmets, legs, and backpacks in no time flat, I am happy with that purchase.
That's a pretty nifty box you have. What kind is it? I really appreciate the lazy susan.
Steam ID: Obos Vent: Obos
I have the same one, they sell a few varieties with the extender hose or with built in lighting. It compacts down nicely for easy storage and travel.
http://www.amazon.com/SPRAY-BOOTH-EXTENSION-MASTER-AIRBRUSH/dp/B00B2TESUQ
Anyone have an easier way for 1) supporting minis so I can paint them separately from the base 2) attaching them when done?
2) could be as simple as superglue, but obviously not as robust.
I have used it on metal minis with no noticeable side effects. I love that stupid expensive thing.
Whenever I need to paint separately from bases, i just glue one foot of the model to a blank base (using a tiny amount of superglue or something easy to remove). I've got a bunch of crappy bases that I just reuse as painting standins. Paint the dudes, paint the bases, remove the dudes from the standin-bases, pin the dudes to the new bases, and paint any touchups.
Absolutely don't.
Who will win in...
THE THUNDERDOME... of mold lines.
Alright, I'm gonna come clear here: I haven't actually used the tool, but I happen to even keep a separate set of files for the metal minis, because of what the metal does to them. I would imagine the remover (which is supposed to be a one-step tool with no post-processing required) should be kept in perfect shape, so that your plastic surface is as smooth as possible once you're done with it - so I wouldn't touch metal with it.
BUT I'm willing to defer to the judgment of Accualt, given that he's actually used one in this way.