While we're on this discussion, what do you guys do to separate pieces or remove things bigger than moldlines? Some sort of saw? I feel like relying on my exacto blade is going to cost me a finger eventually.
Jewller's saw or micro-circular saw in a rotary tool. I tried razor saws a long time ago but never got satisfactory results; either the blade itself is too thick or the stiffening bar on the back of the blade makes deep cuts awkward/impossible.
While we're on this discussion, what do you guys do to separate pieces or remove things bigger than moldlines? Some sort of saw? I feel like relying on my exacto blade is going to cost me a finger eventually.
I'm far from a real expert but I have a jeweler's saw that's nice for not doing to much collateral damage. It's basically a miniature hacksaw with tiny, tiny blades.
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
Well crap I used to much of the Army Painter Matt Varnish or something on my Star Wars Imperial Officers and now I got a sort of frosting effect at one place... How does one fix this? Just paint over it perhaps?
Try applying a coat of gloss varnish then reapplying the matt.
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
I FUCKIN HATE mold lines.
Alright, I'm gonna come clear here: I haven't actually used the tool, but I happen to even keep a separate set of files for the metal minis, because of what the metal does to them. I would imagine the remover (which is supposed to be a one-step tool with no post-processing required) should be kept in perfect shape, so that your plastic surface is as smooth as possible once you're done with it - so I wouldn't touch metal with it.
BUT I'm willing to defer to the judgment of Accualt, given that he's actually used one in this way.
All I can say is I've used the old blackhandle one on Warmachine (and some Warhammer) plastic and metal figures back and forth for three years or so and I haven't noticed any wear and tear. I've used it on maybe 50 models total? Maybe. So I'm not a model factory over here, the thing might chip eventually.
*Accualt is in no way liable for damage, injury, or Chaos spawn caused by using the Games Workshop Citidal Moldline Remover on metal minis.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
No the citadel mold remover is the shit. Full stop.
They're not quite done getting base coats; but here's some Night Lord Terminators, a Tactical Sergeant and Tactical Marine with a new helmet color so I can combat squad and have him be the other sergeant. Once I finish these guys I'll feel like I can move on to painting the Captain and Dreadnought. I'm looking forward to them.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited March 2015
I finally finished drilling out my barrels. Ugh. Why did our hobby need to get so anal? Anyway, only one was really done incorrectly, but you can't even tell. I drilled thru the side of the barrel, but the two halves still match up. And he's an extra marine anyway that would have eventually been in my devastator squad.
I am about to start using my airbush. I cleaned up my work area. Put a lot of bitz and tools away. Got out my cardboard box, the airbrush cleaner pot, and opened up the compressor. Oh man, it is super-quiet, and came with a moisture trap. I'm pretty happy with it. But I am super-intimidated right now. I haven't opened up the airbrush itself yet. I'm taking a break. But I plan to prime these gentlemen tonight.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I have learned something about airbrushes. They have to be done outside. UNless you have a ventilation system. Which I do not. One mini has been badly primed, and will have to get corrected tomorrow., when I can take all this on the patio.
Also, is there supposed to be any primer in the airbrush at all when I've cleaned it? I even resorted to swabbing it with a cotton swab and there is still some white in the channel unde the cup, where the needle goes thru.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Have you pulled the needle out to do your cleaning? That's one of the key points of airbrush maintenance; the needle isn't removable only so you can change it for a different size…
Jesus. When I see models like that I hate that I have almost no interest in Warmachine.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Don't. Warmachine and Hordes models are, for the most part, not actually that interesting. I mean, they aren't 100% generic, but a lot of it just ... lacks. It's just that J is fucking stupid-good and can bring them to life anyway.
Oh, I definitely agree with you. But I like a few of the ones I've seen. That one, a crocodile dude with a top hat, some of the circle golems, a witch...
I don't think I could ever muster interest in the game but I could see myself getting some of the minis.
Oh, I definitely agree with you. But I like a few of the ones I've seen. That one, a crocodile dude with a top hat, some of the circle golems, a witch...
I don't think I could ever muster interest in the game but I could see myself getting some of the minis.
There are a lot of fantastic minis in the warmachine/Hordes ranges, but a lot of kits are variable build. So most heavy warjacks and warbeasts are on one "chassis" so look alike and generic. And because there's quite a trend towards being competitive some fantastic models don't see any play ( like the mountain king) or some horrible models see a ton of play. It's getting a lot better recently (see ruin or the desert hydra for example)
Don't. Warmachine and Hordes models are, for the most part, not actually that interesting. I mean, they aren't 100% generic, but a lot of it just ... lacks. It's just that J is fucking stupid-good and can bring them to life anyway.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited March 2015
Oh, wow.
Wow.
Woooooow.
I finally used my airbrush. The primer went on a little wonky. It seemed really watery and pooled everywhere in crevices. But I think I cleared that up as best I could. I may have been spraying too much, and I also think my primer is a tad on the old side.
But when I finally got around to going after the yellow, it was amazing. I had my technique down, just spraying enough to see color on the mini. I now have the best base coated marines I've ever had, about 24 of them. I don't know how to get the fine detail down yet. My compressor may be a little too strong for that, because I'm pretty sure I had it turned down all the way, and it was still putting out too much air and color, so the chaplain's shoulder pad is going to get brushed.
And since my Independent Character's March goal was to assemble, prime and basecoat one chaplain and two tac squads, I met my March commitment. Yay, me! Now I just have to actually finish painting these minis.
Also, Averland Sunset is way orangier than Iyanden Darksun, which was more of a mustard yellow. I hope by the time I get finished scaling up the colors with highlights and washes, these guys look about the same as the terminators. Oh, and just to prove my progress:
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I had a bit of a panic with regards to my airbrush when I was trying to clean it, disassembled it incorrectly and a piece on the trigger fell out and I couldn't get it back in. I had to watch a Youtube video three times to get it right, but now I know how to disassemble and clean and reassemble my airbrush.
Yeah, pooling means you're either applying too much or your paint is too thin. I did the same thing on my first few tries.
Unfortunately, the smaller your nozzle, the smaller the sweet spot between "too thin" and "clogs your nozzle".
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
This was the Vallejo Surface Primer. I think I may not have shook it up enough. Or maybe it was a little old. I noticed it was in the old packaging. Or... maybe I just let fly and damn the torpedoes. Even though I was trying to be careful. That double action thing is tricky.
This was the Vallejo Surface Primer. I think I may not have shook it up enough. Or maybe it was a little old. I noticed it was in the old packaging. Or... maybe I just let fly and damn the torpedoes. Even though I was trying to be careful. That double action thing is tricky.
Yeah, my bottle of white primer was acting weird and watery until I shook it like I meant it. I put some glass marbles into it to help stirring.
V. Surface primer separates like hell. Shake it like you're a girl in a rap video.
But chances are good you did apply too much if this was your first try. I'd advice practising on some disposable models (hah!).
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
I will say, the difference in consistency between my bottle of white and black is ... huge. I've had no problems with the black, but the white has a consistency slightly muckier, bubbles while spraying, dries quicker in the cup and on the needle, and is 4x harder to clean than anything else I put through. I'm not sure if I might have a bad bottle, as the final primer result seems generally fine, but in comparison it's been a bitch to work with ...
I want to paint so badly. Can't paint. Too Jittery. Waiting on a callback from a interview. Thought I would know today about the job. Got called. Told things are initially looking good. Told more news tomorrow. What!? Excited and nervous now. Will hopefully know tomorrow. Maybe a chance to paint on Wednesday? Ugh... My nerves...
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
As it turns out, I did not actually get a very good base coat, and I can see today that the figures look kind of splotchy, where the primer did not go on well. Would it hurt to give them another coat of the yellow?
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I have noticed that the lighter surface primers react poorly to alcohol. I've noticed when cleaning the airbrush they ... curdle.
All the more reason to use black primer like a boss.
Thanks. I am much happier with this scheme than previous ones. My local gaming group is going to be doing a story driven campaign for Infinity for the month of May so my goal is to get most, if not all, of my Tohaa painted by then.
I have noticed that the lighter surface primers react poorly to alcohol. I've noticed when cleaning the airbrush they ... curdle.
All the more reason to use black primer like a boss.
I didn't put anything in it. I swear! I thought it was ready to go, so I put a few drops in, and tried it. I also can't seem to adjust the pressure on my compressor. And Badger seems lacking in their manuals and online help.
Has anyone tried using the vallejo fluo paints? Are they worth it?
I use yellow for the lightning effect on my Cygnar. It is BRIGHT AS HELL. It is also rather thin enough to run through an airbrush without issue. If painting by brush it takes a couple of coats. It isn't super opaque, either. For instance using it ontop of silver makes more of a neon green. I haven't tried the other fluo paints but I have been impressed by yellow.
valhalla: the actual pressure is only displayed once you blow some air. So if it shows 3 bar and you turn the regulator down, it will still show 3 bar. Then you blow some air and the dial will show the actual pressure. At least that's how it works in ours, something might be wrong with yours or we lack the expertise
Yeah, on most pressure regulators raising the pressure is shown instantly as it opens the valve wider, but lowering the pressure by closing the valve still has the higher pressure in the regulator/tube and won't register until you blow some air.
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Jewller's saw or micro-circular saw in a rotary tool. I tried razor saws a long time ago but never got satisfactory results; either the blade itself is too thick or the stiffening bar on the back of the blade makes deep cuts awkward/impossible.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I'm far from a real expert but I have a jeweler's saw that's nice for not doing to much collateral damage. It's basically a miniature hacksaw with tiny, tiny blades.
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
Try applying a coat of gloss varnish then reapplying the matt.
(Please do not gift. My game bank is already full.)
All I can say is I've used the old blackhandle one on Warmachine (and some Warhammer) plastic and metal figures back and forth for three years or so and I haven't noticed any wear and tear. I've used it on maybe 50 models total? Maybe. So I'm not a model factory over here, the thing might chip eventually.
*Accualt is in no way liable for damage, injury, or Chaos spawn caused by using the Games Workshop Citidal Moldline Remover on metal minis.
If you say otherwise you are objectively wrong.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I am about to start using my airbush. I cleaned up my work area. Put a lot of bitz and tools away. Got out my cardboard box, the airbrush cleaner pot, and opened up the compressor. Oh man, it is super-quiet, and came with a moisture trap. I'm pretty happy with it. But I am super-intimidated right now. I haven't opened up the airbrush itself yet. I'm taking a break. But I plan to prime these gentlemen tonight.
Also, is there supposed to be any primer in the airbrush at all when I've cleaned it? I even resorted to swabbing it with a cotton swab and there is still some white in the channel unde the cup, where the needle goes thru.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
It's Ragman! He was fun to paint and came together really quickly for me
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I don't think I could ever muster interest in the game but I could see myself getting some of the minis.
There are a lot of fantastic minis in the warmachine/Hordes ranges, but a lot of kits are variable build. So most heavy warjacks and warbeasts are on one "chassis" so look alike and generic. And because there's quite a trend towards being competitive some fantastic models don't see any play ( like the mountain king) or some horrible models see a ton of play. It's getting a lot better recently (see ruin or the desert hydra for example)
I'm thinking of picking up some of this admech stuff next week. For my grindark fix.
Wow.
Woooooow.
I finally used my airbrush. The primer went on a little wonky. It seemed really watery and pooled everywhere in crevices. But I think I cleared that up as best I could. I may have been spraying too much, and I also think my primer is a tad on the old side.
But when I finally got around to going after the yellow, it was amazing. I had my technique down, just spraying enough to see color on the mini. I now have the best base coated marines I've ever had, about 24 of them. I don't know how to get the fine detail down yet. My compressor may be a little too strong for that, because I'm pretty sure I had it turned down all the way, and it was still putting out too much air and color, so the chaplain's shoulder pad is going to get brushed.
And since my Independent Character's March goal was to assemble, prime and basecoat one chaplain and two tac squads, I met my March commitment. Yay, me! Now I just have to actually finish painting these minis.
Also, Averland Sunset is way orangier than Iyanden Darksun, which was more of a mustard yellow. I hope by the time I get finished scaling up the colors with highlights and washes, these guys look about the same as the terminators. Oh, and just to prove my progress:
Unfortunately, the smaller your nozzle, the smaller the sweet spot between "too thin" and "clogs your nozzle".
Yeah, my bottle of white primer was acting weird and watery until I shook it like I meant it. I put some glass marbles into it to help stirring.
But chances are good you did apply too much if this was your first try. I'd advice practising on some disposable models (hah!).
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
All the more reason to use black primer like a boss.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
The Tohaa has really come together well
I didn't put anything in it. I swear! I thought it was ready to go, so I put a few drops in, and tried it. I also can't seem to adjust the pressure on my compressor. And Badger seems lacking in their manuals and online help.
What compressor is it? Mine has a regulator you need to pull up to change the pressure and then push it down again to lock it.
I use yellow for the lightning effect on my Cygnar. It is BRIGHT AS HELL. It is also rather thin enough to run through an airbrush without issue. If painting by brush it takes a couple of coats. It isn't super opaque, either. For instance using it ontop of silver makes more of a neon green. I haven't tried the other fluo paints but I have been impressed by yellow.
TC-910. I think mine has that too, but I didn't notice any changes in air pressure.