Babby's first pottery! This is my very first stuff so it's pretty bulky, I was just getting the hang of it and I'm still learning but feel I'm way more aware now of what I'm looking for. I'm pretty much obsessed with japanese pottery, tea cups and tea bowls, I'm fixated on making shapes that fit perfectly in my hand and am starting to get into making wabi sabi style cups which are more lumpy and off the cuff. I started out just blindly following my intuition on a lot of things and staying chill, it's been really good for me. I'm about to glaze up another big batch tomorrow.
I really should have recorded everything I did for each cup, definitely doing that next time..
I'm pretty happy with this one, it has a good weight to it, not too heavy. There's two glazes here, one on the inside and outside. This white glaze is called nouget, it turns a burnt orange when applied thinly and the blue is called floating blue, turns a nice brown applied thinly. The turqoise is slip which is colored soupy clay you apply to greenware, creates a nice texture.
agate glaze and a white glaze, turned it a nice blueish sea green.
agate glaze
This was my very first throw, it's pretty heavy and bulky haha. This glaze is called sparta red, it's so cool how one dip of glaze can do so much.
@Kallisti This guy has amazing how to videos which helped me a lot when I was learning: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgOv-bHeFHnbZE_2fs6YTdQ
The place you are doing pottery at looks like they have some great glazes. Not a giant fan of their celadons but sometimes you can get a completely different look if you do a long dip say 10 seconds or so. You do have to watch out for crazing with that technique so it really depends on how the glaze is made. I don't seem to have any photos of what this looks like but I might take a picture tomorrow to show.
CommunistCow on
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
@Kallisti I'm guessing you guys are firing cone 10 reduction or maybe cone 6 oxidation?
So this piece isn't the greatest example because I had some crawling which is when the glaze collects and moves away exposing some bare part of the ceramics. This is a problem that can happen with long dips but it doesn't always happen. If you love messing with glazes you should learn to love test tiles. That way you can test out these sorts of things without committing a already thrown piece to the experiment.
A blue celadon usually turns out something like this with a quick dip:
When you do a long dip you can get much more saturated look to it. I didn't increase the saturation or do any other post processing on this image. The crawling here sucks but it is worth trying out with the glaze your studio has to see if theirs will come out nicer.
This is a close up of the crazing(cracking) that can happen. I did adjust the contrast on this image a little so you can see the cracks a little more clearly. Sorry for the cellphone potato quality.
I'm going to see if my wife will let me post some of her stuff on here since she is a bit better than me at a lot of this stuff.
Hmm I don't think what I'm using is a celadon then, just from looking at examples online, it's not quite the same, but maybe? I have no idea what we're using, I know she's told me on a few occasions and I'll probly start to pick up on that type of information now that I feel a bit more invested in this, but I'm at the point where I haven't quite absorbed the jargon yet. We have a huge pile of test tiles, but it's something I definitely want to play with. I know we're not really doing anything too crazy as we just don't have the facility for it, just two small kilns in the back room.
This one must came out Saturday and it's probly my best one so far, good weight, it feels so nice to hold! I'm incredibly pleased with the shape. This is sparta red with floating blue. It's like a murky pond when I have green tea in it, it makes me think of koi swimming around. I think testing it out with tea has made me more excited for the whole process and I'm already thinking about what I want to do next.
This isn't mine at all, but someone over in /r/buildapc made their own custom case that is pretty cool. Tempted to try and design my own and put it together in one of the metal working studios on campus.
Actually we do have an image size restriction on the forum. I know it takes a little extra work, but try and get your images down. 1000 pixels in one direction should be enough for the forums, or else we get slow threads.
If you want to post directly from your phone, adjust its camera settings.
I made some kokedama with a friend and shoehorned them into my pottery, I'm especially pleased with the one on the right, makes me so happy to see this culmination! Ever since my big trip to japan a few years back I wanted to make these, I saw them all over the countryside in japan and fell in love but had no idea what they were or how to make them- they're pretty simple and a part of bonsai culture. I plan on removing the wire once it's firmed up a bit.
I made this belt for my brother's birthday. 4 cm wide, 3 mm thick and 120 long. Slight coloring errors (need painters tape to ward off sections next time), but he really liked it. Painted "dirt brown", then applied surface gold color which I overdyed with "dirt brown" again to give it the dimmed look. Has an adjustable trench (15 cm).
Man yogo, you are churning out some great stuff. Keep it up, I love those belts.
Thanks! It means a lot to me
I am also of the belief that my skills have reached a point where I feel confident in opening up a webshop of sorts. So I'm currently reading up on my wordpress / webshop skills.
I'm also really looking forward to share my next 2 works (masks), but I'm missing a tool to hammer in the grommets, so you'll have to wait
I started making more feather bracelets. I started with a generic feather design, just, what I thought in my mind a feather looked like. A week ago, I sat down and started looking at real bird feathers via the USFWS' feather atlas. I have had some luck selling these 'generic feathers', and wanted to take it a step further by offering people the option of specific species. I thought state birds would be kind of neat, so I started with Oklahomas, the scissor tailed fly catcher. I looked up a few others I thought people would be interested in, barred owl, raven, cardinals, etc. I first started with quick gestural sketches of the feathers. Some feathers wouldn't look good as a bracelet, so I had to go through several iterations of each. I then made them into patterns, drawing the centerline where the shaft or rachis would be. Anyways, here are a few different designs I've been working on.
I would buy the hell out of a Colorado one if you do a... lark bunting. These are awesome man keep it up. Actually I would totally get a raven one... pm me if you have any left!
Leather belt made for a family member's birthday. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of it in my light box, so my crappy phone pictures will have to suffice.
I used two pattern wheels to make the markings. I also learned that you really should make sure the leather is properly dry before coloring it. Since I was pressed for time, I opted for something unorthodox: I put it in the oven and gave it 15-20 mins at 50-60 Celsius (122-140 F). It worked wonders and I'm thinking of doing it again if I want to speed up the drying process on other projects.
Also, I finally got around to making a website. It is on its baby legs, but I have a proper domain and wordpress installed. Now I just need to get the right theme installed alongside some WooCommerce or the like
I bought a 24" x 24" sheet for about .11 a square inch. So this would be about $5 in materials for the copper. This is a prototype so I could see if I liked the design or not. The frame is made of barstock, mitered and welded, then sanded back. If I end up making more of these, I will probably have the frames waterjet/laser cut in bulk so I can cut the cost down. I think I could probably make this size for about $25. The nice part about the copper work is the speed of the process, fold-forming is quick.
I am working on a few different sizes to try and sell, in different materials/finishes as well.
This is probably a dumb question, but where do your source your copper? I'm guessing it is a local place that will have no relevance to me finding some here.
I just googled fold-forming and I understand the part about holding it in a vice and then bending. However it looks like you've basically put some tools underneath it and then smashed the copper down on top of it.
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/ is a good place to start for non-ferrous metal. The larger the sheet you buy, the better the price. Anything larger, I usually need to go to a mill, but online metals sells up to 48" in most cases. I own a 12" sheer, so I usually buy 48" x 12" sheets. They sell 12" x 12" as well.
I mostly took a 7"x7" sheet and folded it up on itself until I had a 1" x 1" piece, by reducing it in halves and then folding those up. You hammer the crease in the metal, which locally workhardens it, so when you unfold it, the crease creates a permanent ridge in the material. This is also how I get the vein in my feather bracelets.
@Yogo I've been meaning to ask, I have a pretty poorly made white belt that the front and back are separating. Is there a some household glue or something that might be able to hold it together? I was thinking rubber cement for it's flexibility.
I should really just get a nicer belt, but I'm just hoping for a temporary solution.
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
@Yogo I've been meaning to ask, I have a pretty poorly made white belt that the front and back are separating. Is there a some household glue or something that might be able to hold it together? I was thinking rubber cement for it's flexibility.
I should really just get a nicer belt, but I'm just hoping for a temporary solution.
Put up a picture (either here or in PM), so I can take a look.
My general advice is usually that it is time to get a replacement. I'm not entirely sure on the why of things, but mass-produced belts have a core (some type of paper, cardboard) which 2 thin pieces of "leather" (can be genuine, can be fake) are glued on. I assume it is to cut down production costs since the "leather" piece can be very thin and mostly used to give it the appearance of leather. The cardboard gives it the "stiff" feeling you normally associate with full leather products.
But yes, you can use a glue (super glue should do the trick) or alternatively get a glue specifically for leather. In my experience, the leather glue is thick and white, ensuring a full cover while super glue is more transparent and suitable for thin materials.
However, as you said, for a temporary solution it will work just fine.
In other news, the website is under way and I have finally made a front page which I feel happy about. While my website is a promotional tool, it is also a webshop and common practice dictates that there must be a reference/picture/link to something buy-able. Otherwise, visitors may get confused as to what exactly I am offering. Next up is all the more boring, but important details... like FAQ, terms of use, etc. And then finally standardizing the pricing of my goods. As of now, it has mostly been friend-deals which may be a little too much on the cheap side.
In extra other news, I made this mask for my niece's 3 year old birthday. She was very happy with it!
(3 cm thick leather, acrylic white and black painting, insulated with leather oil).
Thanks, I was looking at Nordstroms and Macy's for a white leather like belt but they didn't have any. I might have to go with a white patterned fabric belt.
No, I am not really communist. Yes, it is weird that I use this name.
0
EncA Fool with CompassionPronouns: He, Him, HisRegistered Userregular
In other news, the website is under way and I have finally made a front page which I feel happy about. While my website is a promotional tool, it is also a webshop and common practice dictates that there must be a reference/picture/link to something buy-able. Otherwise, visitors may get confused as to what exactly I am offering. Next up is all the more boring, but important details... like FAQ, terms of use, etc. And then finally standardizing the pricing of my goods. As of now, it has mostly been friend-deals which may be a little too much on the cheap side.
In extra other news, I made this mask for my niece's 3 year old birthday. She was very happy with it!
(3 cm thick leather, acrylic white and black painting, insulated with leather oil).
This is amazing! You need to make a whole set and have a classy Venetian party.
Posts
Handmade Jewelry by me on EtsyGames for sale
Me on Twitch!
Leather wristband with smoothed edges and surfaces. Extremely comfortable to wear.
I really should have recorded everything I did for each cup, definitely doing that next time..
I'm pretty happy with this one, it has a good weight to it, not too heavy. There's two glazes here, one on the inside and outside. This white glaze is called nouget, it turns a burnt orange when applied thinly and the blue is called floating blue, turns a nice brown applied thinly. The turqoise is slip which is colored soupy clay you apply to greenware, creates a nice texture.
agate glaze and a white glaze, turned it a nice blueish sea green.
agate glaze
This was my very first throw, it's pretty heavy and bulky haha. This glaze is called sparta red, it's so cool how one dip of glaze can do so much.
floating blue
The place you are doing pottery at looks like they have some great glazes. Not a giant fan of their celadons but sometimes you can get a completely different look if you do a long dip say 10 seconds or so. You do have to watch out for crazing with that technique so it really depends on how the glaze is made. I don't seem to have any photos of what this looks like but I might take a picture tomorrow to show.
So this piece isn't the greatest example because I had some crawling which is when the glaze collects and moves away exposing some bare part of the ceramics. This is a problem that can happen with long dips but it doesn't always happen. If you love messing with glazes you should learn to love test tiles. That way you can test out these sorts of things without committing a already thrown piece to the experiment.
A blue celadon usually turns out something like this with a quick dip:
When you do a long dip you can get much more saturated look to it. I didn't increase the saturation or do any other post processing on this image. The crawling here sucks but it is worth trying out with the glaze your studio has to see if theirs will come out nicer.
This is a close up of the crazing(cracking) that can happen. I did adjust the contrast on this image a little so you can see the cracks a little more clearly. Sorry for the cellphone potato quality.
I'm going to see if my wife will let me post some of her stuff on here since she is a bit better than me at a lot of this stuff.
This one must came out Saturday and it's probly my best one so far, good weight, it feels so nice to hold! I'm incredibly pleased with the shape. This is sparta red with floating blue. It's like a murky pond when I have green tea in it, it makes me think of koi swimming around. I think testing it out with tea has made me more excited for the whole process and I'm already thinking about what I want to do next.
You can add a spoiler tag if you want. That's what I do.
If you want to post directly from your phone, adjust its camera settings.
Zzzzz, feather bracelet out of fine silver.
I made some kokedama with a friend and shoehorned them into my pottery, I'm especially pleased with the one on the right, makes me so happy to see this culmination! Ever since my big trip to japan a few years back I wanted to make these, I saw them all over the countryside in japan and fell in love but had no idea what they were or how to make them- they're pretty simple and a part of bonsai culture. I plan on removing the wire once it's firmed up a bit.
Handmade Jewelry by me on EtsyGames for sale
Me on Twitch!
First a snake belt for myself:
And a belt for my father (old belt was torn from age, and he wanted to keep the buckle):
My Portfolio Site
Thanks! It means a lot to me
I am also of the belief that my skills have reached a point where I feel confident in opening up a webshop of sorts. So I'm currently reading up on my wordpress / webshop skills.
I'm also really looking forward to share my next 2 works (masks), but I'm missing a tool to hammer in the grommets, so you'll have to wait
My Portfolio Site
Here is some of her stuff. All of this is hand-built instead of thrown. (Because you know it is really hard to throw an icosahedron on a wheel)
Raku:
Salt fired plate with carvings in it. Black underglaze painted over the design and then wiped off leaving it only in the crevices.
Black Mountain clay with a white glaze over it. Pattern carved into the bottom so that more glaze settled there and shows the design a little.
Leather belt made for a family member's birthday. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of it in my light box, so my crappy phone pictures will have to suffice.
I used two pattern wheels to make the markings. I also learned that you really should make sure the leather is properly dry before coloring it. Since I was pressed for time, I opted for something unorthodox: I put it in the oven and gave it 15-20 mins at 50-60 Celsius (122-140 F). It worked wonders and I'm thinking of doing it again if I want to speed up the drying process on other projects.
Also, I finally got around to making a website. It is on its baby legs, but I have a proper domain and wordpress installed. Now I just need to get the right theme installed alongside some WooCommerce or the like
Metal doodle. 7"x7", copper and steel.
I am working on a few different sizes to try and sell, in different materials/finishes as well.
I just googled fold-forming and I understand the part about holding it in a vice and then bending. However it looks like you've basically put some tools underneath it and then smashed the copper down on top of it.
I mostly took a 7"x7" sheet and folded it up on itself until I had a 1" x 1" piece, by reducing it in halves and then folding those up. You hammer the crease in the metal, which locally workhardens it, so when you unfold it, the crease creates a permanent ridge in the material. This is also how I get the vein in my feather bracelets.
Two more cuff bracelets.
Common Raven in blackened sterling silver.
Northern Cardinal in patinated copper.
Handmade Jewelry by me on EtsyGames for sale
Me on Twitch!
I should really just get a nicer belt, but I'm just hoping for a temporary solution.
Put up a picture (either here or in PM), so I can take a look.
My general advice is usually that it is time to get a replacement. I'm not entirely sure on the why of things, but mass-produced belts have a core (some type of paper, cardboard) which 2 thin pieces of "leather" (can be genuine, can be fake) are glued on. I assume it is to cut down production costs since the "leather" piece can be very thin and mostly used to give it the appearance of leather. The cardboard gives it the "stiff" feeling you normally associate with full leather products.
But yes, you can use a glue (super glue should do the trick) or alternatively get a glue specifically for leather. In my experience, the leather glue is thick and white, ensuring a full cover while super glue is more transparent and suitable for thin materials.
However, as you said, for a temporary solution it will work just fine.
GET A NEW BELT ASAP!
In extra other news, I made this mask for my niece's 3 year old birthday. She was very happy with it!
(3 cm thick leather, acrylic white and black painting, insulated with leather oil).
Thanks, I was looking at Nordstroms and Macy's for a white leather like belt but they didn't have any. I might have to go with a white patterned fabric belt.
This is amazing! You need to make a whole set and have a classy Venetian party.
14k white gold and sterling silver.
Sapphire getting ready to be set.
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