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[PC Build Thread] NVIDIA can't stop releasing GPUs like Oprah can't stop releasing bees

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Posts

  • FoomyFoomy Registered User regular
    Dhalphir wrote: »
    Is there a universal set of troubleshooting steps to determine the origin of a Driver irql_not_less_or_equal error?

    run http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed_os.htm on the crash logs and it should give you an idea as where to start looking.

    Steam Profile: FoomyFooms
  • DhalphirDhalphir don't you open that trapdoor you're a fool if you dareRegistered User regular
    Foomy wrote: »
    Dhalphir wrote: »
    Is there a universal set of troubleshooting steps to determine the origin of a Driver irql_not_less_or_equal error?

    run http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed_os.htm on the crash logs and it should give you an idea as where to start looking.

    That didn't help, but I did go to Device Manager and notice that the page was constantly refreshing, as if a device was constantly being added, removed, and added again, over and over. Narrowed it down to my Oculus Rift - looks like the USB extension cable that I'm using with it doesn't want to play nice anymore, and was malfunctioning, because when I opened up Oculus Home it showed that the Rift was constantly DCing and reconnecting, over and over. Removing the extension and plugging it all in directly solved the issue, for now.

  • wunderbarwunderbar What Have I Done? Registered User regular
    Dhalphir wrote: »
    Is there a universal set of troubleshooting steps to determine the origin of a Driver irql_not_less_or_equal error?

    Does it not say what the driver file name is in the error? it'll be a .sys file. If it doesn't, go into the event viewer and it should say there. you can then google the driver file name.

    XBL: thewunderbar PSN: thewunderbar NNID: thewunderbar Steam: wunderbar87 Twitter: wunderbar
  • DhalphirDhalphir don't you open that trapdoor you're a fool if you dareRegistered User regular
    wunderbar wrote: »
    Dhalphir wrote: »
    Is there a universal set of troubleshooting steps to determine the origin of a Driver irql_not_less_or_equal error?

    Does it not say what the driver file name is in the error? it'll be a .sys file. If it doesn't, go into the event viewer and it should say there. you can then google the driver file name.

    It was usbxhci.sys

  • SynthesisSynthesis Honda Today! Registered User regular
    Synthesis wrote: »
    So, sadly, I think setting my EVGA GTX 1080 FTW to 120% overclocking causes visible graphical errors--split-second things that happen once or twice a day. I actually thought there was something wrong with my displayport cable or my monitor itself.

    Oh well! First world problem! The FTW model is already clocked higher than the baseline GTX 1080 anyway.

    Turns out I was wrong--still getting a daily monitor glitch. Probably a defect in my Acer monitor, since I've ruled out the cables and overclocking (a error in my GTX 1080 seems less likely in my experience). I'll have to begin troubleshooting at some point.

    On the bright side, overclocking here I come! Whee!

  • bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    Dhalphir wrote: »
    Foomy wrote: »
    Dhalphir wrote: »
    Is there a universal set of troubleshooting steps to determine the origin of a Driver irql_not_less_or_equal error?

    run http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed_os.htm on the crash logs and it should give you an idea as where to start looking.

    That didn't help, but I did go to Device Manager and notice that the page was constantly refreshing, as if a device was constantly being added, removed, and added again, over and over. Narrowed it down to my Oculus Rift - looks like the USB extension cable that I'm using with it doesn't want to play nice anymore, and was malfunctioning, because when I opened up Oculus Home it showed that the Rift was constantly DCing and reconnecting, over and over. Removing the extension and plugging it all in directly solved the issue, for now.

    Yeah, Rift might be pulling some power from it which is probably causing it.

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
  • SnicketysnickSnicketysnick The Greatest Hype Man in WesterosRegistered User regular
    Choo choo new card smell

    kl04ai7g7tor.jpg

    sweets were a nice bonus :)

    7qmGNt5.png
    D3 Steam #TeamTangent STO
  • KelorKelor Registered User regular
    Has anyone ever build just a game box for their TV?

    I play a lot of local multiplayer with friends and have their Steam accounts linked to mine so we can play whatever when we all catch up but I've been thinking of just making a gaming equivalent of a portable media box rather than having to drag their PCs out to their TVs.

    Graphically nothing we play is taxing at all, Gang Beasts or the Gauntlet remake is about as hard as it would get pushed. It would need to have at least four USB ports for controllers. I have an old 750ti floating around that will do the job, RAM is dirt cheap as is storage, so I think I am just looking for suggestions as to the rest I would need to get it up and running.

  • LD50LD50 Registered User regular
    The most important thing for a living room game box is the case. Find the case you want to see in your entertainment center, look at what formfactor it is, and go from there. Make sure to keep ventilation in mind; if it's going into a entertainment center of some kind, it's external fans might end up in not ideal places.

  • SnicketysnickSnicketysnick The Greatest Hype Man in WesterosRegistered User regular
    edited August 2016
    Alright, snuck a short bit of AC Syndicate in and its either a 25-30% improvement on my R9 280X at the same settings, or a ~15-20% improvement with extra shaders and AA turned on, very quiet, nice and cool as far as I can tell so all in all very happy with it. Looking forward to Deus Ex next week to stretch her legs in DX12 :)

    Snicketysnick on
    7qmGNt5.png
    D3 Steam #TeamTangent STO
  • DhalphirDhalphir don't you open that trapdoor you're a fool if you dareRegistered User regular
    The 10-series cards run so unbelievably cool and quiet, it's nuts. My 980Ti Strix idles in the high 30s, and would go to 80+ under load if I didn't have a super aggressive fan profile. My mate's 1070 EVGA idles in the mid 20s and will barely break 60 under load.

  • bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    Dhalphir wrote: »
    The 10-series cards run so unbelievably cool and quiet, it's nuts. My 980Ti Strix idles in the high 30s, and would go to 80+ under load if I didn't have a super aggressive fan profile. My mate's 1070 EVGA idles in the mid 20s and will barely break 60 under load.

    yeah my PC is silent now

    even playing games

    it's nutsoids

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
  • SynthesisSynthesis Honda Today! Registered User regular
    I am similarly impressed. I've gone back to 120% clocking on my EVGA GTX 1080 FTW--I constantly tell myself I want to check temperatures when I'm actually running a game and everything is actually overclocked, but I invariably forget because there's not an audible difference when everything is going.

    The rest of my PC is louder.

  • VishNubVishNub Registered User regular
    Thread! Help me decide if my computer is all the way dead or mostly dead. It's a ~6-7 yr old machine I built.

    I just came back from vacation, and I turned the computer off before I left. It's been on its last leg for a while, so the following isn't terribly surprising. As I turned it on just now, I heard a snap -- like plastic on plastic or like a spark, and now the computer won't turn on. The normal green light on the motherboard is absent. Other hardware on the same surge strip works fine (I haven't checked that outlet in particular yet, but I don't think that's the problem.)

    The only reasons I can think of for the italicized problem are power supply or motherboard failure. Any suggestions on how to diagnose? I don't have spare parts or a voltmeter to play with. If there's a less terminal diagnosis anyone can come up with, I'd love to hear that.

    Given the age of the system, its probably not worth trying to fix. Assuming the (PCI) hard drives aren't cooked, will I be able to read them with a new system and get my data back? Most of it is backed up or unimportant, but there's some recent photos and the like that aren't.

  • jdarksunjdarksun Struggler VARegistered User regular
    edited August 2016
    VishNub wrote: »
    Thread! Help me decide if my computer is all the way dead or mostly dead. It's a ~6-7 yr old machine I built.

    I just came back from vacation, and I turned the computer off before I left. It's been on its last leg for a while, so the following isn't terribly surprising. As I turned it on just now, I heard a snap -- like plastic on plastic or like a spark, and now the computer won't turn on. The normal green light on the motherboard is absent. Other hardware on the same surge strip works fine (I haven't checked that outlet in particular yet, but I don't think that's the problem.)

    The only reasons I can think of for the italicized problem are power supply or motherboard failure. Any suggestions on how to diagnose? I don't have spare parts or a voltmeter to play with. If there's a less terminal diagnosis anyone can come up with, I'd love to hear that.

    Given the age of the system, its probably not worth trying to fix. Assuming the (PCI) hard drives aren't cooked, will I be able to read them with a new system and get my data back? Most of it is backed up or unimportant, but there's some recent photos and the like that aren't.
    Flip the switch on the PSU to off, pull the power cord, wait a bit (30 seconds if you just to let everything settle down, an hour if you want the PSU capacitor to fully discharge). Plug it back in, flip the PSU switch to on, press the power button on the case - see what happens.

    If that doesn't work, yeah, it's either your PSU or mobo that's fried. Drives and components will be salvageable regardless. If you don't have spare parts or a volunteer to help, you'll basically need a multimeter or whatever to verify that components are actually getting power.

    jdarksun on
  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    I'd assume it was the PSU until proven otherwise. Given you can't test it you'd need to borrow one from someone/try your PSU in another PC or just order the cheapest you feel OK with and hope and return it if required.

  • FoomyFoomy Registered User regular
    edited August 2016
    Unplug the psu completely from everything, turn it off via the switch on it's back.

    Now go find a paperclip or a short piece of wire and connect the green(pin 16) and a black(pin 17, or any black wire) terminal next to it on the 24 pin atx connector to each other.

    turn psu on with the switch and see if the fan spins up.

    Don't touch the paperclip while the psu is on, normally it wouldn't carry anything more then 5V just to use a switch, but if your psu died in the wrong way something might of shorted. It's a very low risk, but no need to take it.

    Foomy on
    Steam Profile: FoomyFooms
  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    I totally forgot about the paper clip test, doh. Good call.

  • VishNubVishNub Registered User regular
    Ok. Tried that. No fan spinup, so most likely dead PSU.

    I'll order a new PSU and see if that takes care of it -- keep my poor computer alive for another few months. Although...

    Would a new PSU work with my old system (has the form factor changed?) What would be a normal rating for a new system? I'm wondering if I can buy a new PSU, then use it in a new system whenever I get around to that. I know these are kind of trivial questions, but it's been a while since I did this.

  • DhalphirDhalphir don't you open that trapdoor you're a fool if you dareRegistered User regular
    Absolutely you could re-use the PSU in a new system, so I'd suggest doing a bit of research around what you might want in a new system to make sure you buy a beefy enough PSU.

  • FoomyFoomy Registered User regular
    VishNub wrote: »
    Ok. Tried that. No fan spinup, so most likely dead PSU.

    I'll order a new PSU and see if that takes care of it -- keep my poor computer alive for another few months. Although...

    Would a new PSU work with my old system (has the form factor changed?) What would be a normal rating for a new system? I'm wondering if I can buy a new PSU, then use it in a new system whenever I get around to that. I know these are kind of trivial questions, but it's been a while since I did this.

    form factor would be the same, unless you had some weird custom dell. So yes you should be able to buy a new psu now and stick it in a new build later

    500-600W is about the normal unless your going crazy with multiple gpus.

    seagate or evga are the brand I recommend.

    Steam Profile: FoomyFooms
  • VishNubVishNub Registered User regular
    I had a 20pin + 4pin at the top atx connector -- dunno if that's weird.

  • FoomyFoomy Registered User regular
    edited August 2016
    VishNub wrote: »
    I had a 20pin + 4pin at the top atx connector -- dunno if that's weird.

    completely standard.

    way back in the day atx power standard was for 20-pin connector, then around 1999-2000 with the release of pentiums they added an extra 4-pin block with 2 12v terminals for extra power for the cpu.

    Newer psu's these days usually just combine it into a single 24pin connector, but some will still do 20+4 just because.

    Foomy on
    Steam Profile: FoomyFooms
  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    Plus the 4-pin (6-pin?) mobo connector

  • CantidoCantido Registered User regular
    So thanks to this thread, I got warranty repairs on my ASUS GTX 980!

    The original problem was that it lost all DisplayPort capability. I don't know whether its the latest round of patches or the repairs, but now I can run Witcher 3 on Ultra at approximately 50 FPS.

    3DS Friendcode 5413-1311-3767
  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    Cantido wrote: »
    50 FPS.

    Throw it out

  • CantidoCantido Registered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Cantido wrote: »
    50 FPS.

    Throw it out

    Meh, I get 60FPS in urban areas. It's all that nature that trips up my card slightly. I think I can get one more year out of this card.

    3DS Friendcode 5413-1311-3767
  • SharpyVIISharpyVII Registered User regular
    So on Novatech the cheapest gtx 1070 is only £70 more than the most expensive 1060.

    I'd be silly to go for the 1060 wouldn't I?

    I'd have to get a 6 pin to 8 pin adapter and i need to measure my case to make sure it'll fit (I'm pretty sure it will just need to be certain).

    I currently have a 960 so it'll be quite a big difference!

  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks Registered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Cantido wrote: »
    50 FPS.

    Throw it out
    votw8fh.jpg

  • VishNubVishNub Registered User regular
    So, I put together a replacement build for my now dead machine. RIP. I also remembered how confusing this is when you haven't done it in six years, but here's what I've come up with.

    AMD FX-8350 Black Edition Vishera 8-Core 4.0 GHz (4.2 GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 125W FD8350FRHKBOX Desktop Processor ($160)
    MSI MSI Gaming 970 Gaming AM3+/AM3 AMD 970 and SB950 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard ($100)
    G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GXM ($67)
    SAMSUNG 850 EVO 2.5" 250GB SATA III 3-D Vertical Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-75E250B/AM ($90)
    SAPPHIRE Vapor-X Radeon R7 370 DirectX 12 100386VXL 4GB 256-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 CrossFireX Support Video Card ($140)

    Plus PSU (650W), Case (mid ATX), DVD drive. Currently $680 total.

    I have a bunch of 7200 RPM SATA drives at this point of varying ages I'm going to try to reuse as bulk storage for the new machine. Otherwise I'll get a new one.

    A couple of things: I play a lot of DOTA (and nothing newer at the moment), which isn't AFAIK a resource hog, so this is probably too much machine, but I've got the budget for it right now, and I like these things to last a while.

    The other concern I have right now is that it's probably more CPU than I need, relative to the other components, but I don't have a good feel for that.

    If you guys notice any other compatibility issues or the like, that would be swell. I tried to cross check that as best I could.

  • FoomyFoomy Registered User regular
    edited August 2016
    Don't get an AMD cpu, your paying more than an equal priced Intel for less peformance and more heat.

    so your budget is about $700?

    if I get a chance later tonight I can throw together a build. Or someone else will before than, lots of people around who enjoy picking parts.

    Foomy on
    Steam Profile: FoomyFooms
  • jdarksunjdarksun Struggler VARegistered User regular
    Also, you gotta use PCPartPicker. It'll help you find compatibility issues automatically.

  • VishNubVishNub Registered User regular
    Foomy wrote: »
    Don't get an AMD cpu, your paying more than an equal priced Intel for less peformance and more heat.

    so your budget is about $700?

    if I get a chance later tonight I can throw together a build. Or someone else will before than, lots of people around who enjoy picking parts.

    Yeah. My girlfriend spent 2k on her iMac, so I figure 700 for a PC is reasonable. :P

    From what I'm reading now, the i3 6100s and AMD 8300s are roughly comparable performance. Disagree?

  • DhalphirDhalphir don't you open that trapdoor you're a fool if you dareRegistered User regular
    VishNub wrote: »
    Foomy wrote: »
    Don't get an AMD cpu, your paying more than an equal priced Intel for less peformance and more heat.

    so your budget is about $700?

    if I get a chance later tonight I can throw together a build. Or someone else will before than, lots of people around who enjoy picking parts.

    Yeah. My girlfriend spent 2k on her iMac, so I figure 700 for a PC is reasonable. :P

    From what I'm reading now, the i3 6100s and AMD 8300s are roughly comparable performance. Disagree?

    True, but the AMD has absolutely no upgrade path and never will, while the current sockets used for Intel CPUs still have one more CPU generation left in them.

  • DhalphirDhalphir don't you open that trapdoor you're a fool if you dareRegistered User regular
    And go for one of the new AMD GPUs like the RX480. Anything from the previous generation is very, very poor bang for buck.

  • DhalphirDhalphir don't you open that trapdoor you're a fool if you dareRegistered User regular
    @VishNub

    I went a bit over your budget to include a 1060, but I think it's worthwhile. And I went with Intel, for the reasons mentioned above.

    None of the prices on any of the new AMD cards, the RX460, 470, and 480 are worth it. The price difference between them and the GTX1060 is not big, and the 1060 has more performance than them all.

    http://pcpartpicker.com/list/TVwvf8

  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    Unless Vulcan takes off! Or your budget is maxed out. It's not a BAD idea to get an AMD card, but yeah, 1060 if you can swing it (or that Vulcan thing takes off, not likely).

  • KashaarKashaar Low OrbitRegistered User regular
    Xeddicus wrote: »
    Unless Vulcan takes off! Or your budget is maxed out. It's not a BAD idea to get an AMD card, but yeah, 1060 if you can swing it (or that Vulcan thing takes off, not likely).

    Oh, Vulkan's gonna take off alright. Developers love it.

    Indie Dev Blog | Twitter | Steam
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    I'm working on a cute little video game! Here's a link for you.
  • DhalphirDhalphir don't you open that trapdoor you're a fool if you dareRegistered User regular
    edited August 2016
    When an RX480 is $290 and the GTX1060 is $250, and faster, it's not worth it. I don't know why prices on the RX480 on PCPartPicker are listed so high.

    EDIT: And it goes without saying that you shouldn't buy a 970, the 1060 is much faster.

    EDIT2: Well, not MUCH faster, about 10% faster, but it's also cheaper and uses less power and runs cooler and quieter.

    Dhalphir on
  • wunderbarwunderbar What Have I Done? Registered User regular
    Dhalphir wrote: »
    When an RX480 is $290 and the GTX1060 is $250, and faster, it's not worth it. I don't know why prices on the RX480 on PCPartPicker are listed so high.

    EDIT: And it goes without saying that you shouldn't buy a 970, the 1060 is much faster.

    EDIT2: Well, not MUCH faster, about 10% faster, but it's also cheaper and uses less power and runs cooler and quieter.

    the RX480 is more expensive right now because it is harder to find. MSRP is $200 but it's never really been at that price since launch because it's been near impossible to find.

    XBL: thewunderbar PSN: thewunderbar NNID: thewunderbar Steam: wunderbar87 Twitter: wunderbar
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