going crazy trying to optimize case airflow doesn't really gain you much for lowering temps, maybe 1-2C if your going from a decent clean non-cluttered case to perfect optimized.
The biggest reason to be perfectly optimized is less about that 1-2c temperature difference and more so you can take pictures of your build and proudly show them off to people on the internet.
going crazy trying to optimize case airflow doesn't really gain you much for lowering temps, maybe 1-2C if your going from a decent clean non-cluttered case to perfect optimized.
The biggest reason to be perfectly optimized is less about that 1-2c temperature difference and more so you can take pictures of your build and proudly show them off to people on the internet.
bah, you got me
Marty: The future, it's where you're going? Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
The 1080 is around 25% more performance than the 1070 for 50% more money.
That's about the long and short of it.
The multiple versions of the same chipset will be variations on clock speed in the overclock.
Ah, ok thanks. I haven't gotten into overclocking yet, but I'd like to try.
I was able to find MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X on Jet.com for 420 (I have an offer on my account for $30 off. Is this a good deal? Also, this page says it is GDDR5x, while Amazon and Newegg say it isnt. Is this a big deal?
I'm like 90% certain GDDR5X is only available on 1080s although OEMs may be allowed to use higher quality VRAM so maybe it does?
As for whether its a good deal, it'd be easier to tell if I could see the clock speeds for the card. That said, $420 seems pretty typical. I see a number of cards listed at $430 on Newegg (cheapest MSI card with the Twin Frozr cooling solution is $440). Amazon's prices seem a bit bonkers though.
The 1080 is around 25% more performance than the 1070 for 50% more money.
That's about the long and short of it.
The multiple versions of the same chipset will be variations on clock speed in the overclock.
Ah, ok thanks. I haven't gotten into overclocking yet, but I'd like to try.
I was able to find MSI GeForce GTX 1070 Gaming X on Jet.com for 420 (I have an offer on my account for $30 off. Is this a good deal? Also, this page says it is GDDR5x, while Amazon and Newegg say it isnt. Is this a big deal?
I'm like 90% certain GDDR5X is only available on 1080s although OEMs may be allowed to use higher quality VRAM so maybe it does?
As for whether its a good deal, it'd be easier to tell if I could see the clock speeds for the card. That said, $420 seems pretty typical. I see a number of cards listed at $430 on Newegg (cheapest MSI card with the Twin Frozr cooling solution is $440). Amazon's prices seem a bit bonkers though.
Thanks!
Also I was looking at a new processor as I have an i5-3570k but consensus online seems like meh that's not needed with overclocking. So I downloaded the intel clocking software and apparently trying to go from 3.4 ghz to 4 result in blue screens, but I think that's because I have to go through my bios. Because I changed it to 4.0 in my bios and everything seems fine and the intel software now reads that it's 4.0.
I just hope something actually changed? We'll see.
Does anyone have any experience with the Fractal Design Define S cases? I think I'd like something smaller, but I want to fit an ATX motherboard and 3 HHDs and 1 SSD. Factor in I dont really want to sacrifice cable management and build quality and I'm not sure I can do better than the Define S at $80.
I went to microcenter and was disappointed by their fan selection. The push intake fans in front of the radiator are weird. They're NZXT FX V2 140mm fans, and they're supposed to be static pressure pwm fans but...
And now the Dell S2716DGR (1440p, TN panel, 144Hz, G sync) monitor is on sale on Best Buy for $450. That is super tempting since the TN panel on that one is supposed to be pretty good and I've never had an IPS before and doubt I'd see the difference unless they were right next to each other. I want to hold out for that Predator but no way is it going to ever be that cheap.
Those monitors are really well reviewed. Any particular reason you're holding out for a Predator?
edit: format
I thought the look of the Predator better matched my build, plus it is IPS. That said, I did snap up that deal (monitor should arrive on my birthday!) If it's disappointing I can always send it back and pick up a different monitor.
*may be replaced with something better, still haven't really decided.
Price is a bit higher than I wanted (coming in at about $900), but with $300 in hard drives that were the reason this system is even being rebuilt theres not a whole lot I could do about that I think. Hopefully this will be the last NAS/HTPC build I need to do for a nice long while.
970 is still a great card at 1080p resolutions will handle anything you throw at it on Max settings
This is what I have learned through my research. Perfect for my needs, I'm not one for ridiculous monitors.
In the end of the day, literally you are the only person who can tell you what you need out of a monitor.
I'm still bummed I couldn't get G-sync, but 4K consistency across screens and a much higher pixel density were both much more important and much more affordable. After that, the quality of the monitor itself--though I went with a model that had excellent display quality from reviews (though I may end up having to replace it for a manufacturing glitch).
So, my 4 year old gaming laptop just died and I've decided I want to step up to the desktop PC world. I haven't had a home desktop in 12 years so I basically know nothing about the parts or build process.
I read the OP and will probably poke around and do some more initial research, but is there anything else I should know as a first time builder?
I have a pretty decent budget (~$2000) though I'll also have to buy a monitor and keyboard. From what I've read I don't really need to go past an i5 processor and I'll probably go for one of the 1070s. 16GB of RAM and a decent sized SSD + regular HDD.
Mostly used for gaming as well as some programming.
Do you have any specifics in terms of what you need for shape and size?
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
I went to pcpartpicker and checked out one of their builds that seems to match what I'm looking for. I'm not sure how much I should trust in their automatic compatibility check with all the parts. Does this seem like it could work? http://pcpartpicker.com/list/mks68K
1. Your motherboard is black, but the ram sticks are red. TOTALLY an aesthetic choice, but I've popped in some black Ripjaw V kits instead.
2. No familiar with the SSD manufacturer you had, and the equivalent Samsung 850 EVO is roughly $30 more, so I'd seriously consider going with our known quantity (a favorite on the forum).
3. The GPU you have there is an ITX form factor. This isn't a BAD thing, but it's only got the one fan, and a greatly reduced footprint. VERY useful for if you're trying to build a small, beastly LAN rig, not as useful in a mid tower case where you have room to stretch out. I've chosen an EVGA card with their ACX 3.0 cooler in it's stead, more cooling = better performance potential, as well as quieter operation. Also, styling should still fit the theme.
It's a marginal price increase for some additional reliability, performance, and aesthetics. Let me know if you have some specific considerations, and we can help continue to fine-tune for you.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
Also, I saw that the case recommended by the build doesn't have space for an optical drive. I switched it out for this one pcpartpicker.com/product/cTQypg/corsair-case-200r Reviews seem to be pretty good for it and doesn't seem to have any conflicts with the other components. I don't really care if there's a window showing off the contests of the case or not, so the loss of that isn't a big deal for me. Anything I should be looking out for when switching cases?
If you're set on an optical drive, there are a LOT of cases that will serve you well. Another case worth considering is the Fractal Define R series (specifically the R5 http://pcpartpicker.com/product/nwVBD3/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr5bko). Simple aesthetic, sound dampening... Just nice all around.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
I've been having problems with my computer bluescreening, and now it doesn't want to install the anniversary update, plus the Oculus Rift started not detecting its HDMI connection and I think I'm just going to wipe Windows and start over.
The one thing I really don't like is installing the motherboard drivers. My motherboard is an ASUS Z170-A, and I'm not convinced the AI Suite or whichever component is doing its job of keeping everything up to date. I go to the driver download page and there are several random updates which I'm pretty sure I was never asked to install. Should I just go to that page and manually sift out the newest of each driver and install them all? It feels like there should be a better way to do this, or the page should be better organized, or something. Like, an up-to-date ZIP file of "install everything in here after you reinstall Windows" would be nice.
Absolutely serviceable for now, with plenty of room to upgrade. The only thing I was iffy about was the MOBO, but I got it for I think $60, which was great. And of course I'll need a better PSU at some point, and it will definitely be modular, but for now it is finally done.
All I need to do now is save for a proper moniter because this one from walmart is abyssmal.
I've been having problems with my computer bluescreening, and now it doesn't want to install the anniversary update, plus the Oculus Rift started not detecting its HDMI connection and I think I'm just going to wipe Windows and start over.
The one thing I really don't like is installing the motherboard drivers. My motherboard is an ASUS Z170-A, and I'm not convinced the AI Suite or whichever component is doing its job of keeping everything up to date. I go to the driver download page and there are several random updates which I'm pretty sure I was never asked to install. Should I just go to that page and manually sift out the newest of each driver and install them all? It feels like there should be a better way to do this, or the page should be better organized, or something. Like, an up-to-date ZIP file of "install everything in here after you reinstall Windows" would be nice.
You really don't want it installing drivers by itself, that's more likely to lead to an issue than prevent one generally speaking. On the other hand, since you are having issues, yeah, go weed out the up to date ones and see what happens. Shouldn't be too hard, though I didn't look at their possibly horrible labeling, either.
It's, like, there are four audio drivers available, and they're identified as follows:
Version 6.01.7848, Realtek Audio Audio: REALTEK HM_TUF V6.0.1.7848 File Size 414.16 MB 2016/08/04
Version 6.0.1.7727, Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.1.7727 for Windows 7 32bit & 64bit / 8.1 64bit / 10 64bit.(WHQL) 256.61 MB 2016/03/16
Version 6.0.1.7661, Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.1.7661 for Windows 7 32bit & 64bit / 8.1 64bit / 10 64bit.(WHQL) 250.33 MB 2016/01/13
Version 6.0.1.7524, Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.1.7524 for Windows 7 32bit & 64bit / 8.1 64bit / 10 64bit, 408.91 MB 2015/08/04
Is the latest file a non-WHQL driver? Am I going to unpack a 414 MB file and find it has one gigantic file called HM_TUF.BIN that I need to sort out on my own?
Likewise, there are two packages in the Chipset category and they're also not named consistently so I'm mostly looking at the version numbers. But the biggest pain is the Utilities category, where I'm Googling these packages to see if I need them (Front Base Driver, HyStream, Turbo LAN, HomeCloud), and there's also a bundle of several utilities including the overclocking one, and sometimes it has 11 components and sometimes it has 5 or 2 or 8, and it's not clear to me if I need to start with the latest 11 component version and update incrementally, or if the missing components are obsolete.
This stuff could really stand to be better organized and labeled, is all.
I've been having problems with my computer bluescreening, and now it doesn't want to install the anniversary update, plus the Oculus Rift started not detecting its HDMI connection and I think I'm just going to wipe Windows and start over.
The one thing I really don't like is installing the motherboard drivers. My motherboard is an ASUS Z170-A, and I'm not convinced the AI Suite or whichever component is doing its job of keeping everything up to date. I go to the driver download page and there are several random updates which I'm pretty sure I was never asked to install. Should I just go to that page and manually sift out the newest of each driver and install them all? It feels like there should be a better way to do this, or the page should be better organized, or something. Like, an up-to-date ZIP file of "install everything in here after you reinstall Windows" would be nice.
ah didn't see the sizing differences when I first read it.
and ouch, that's a mistake i've seen before recently. but that does unfortunately answer your question. hopefully the returns process goes quick and easy.
Ok. Ran to frys. Got some ram. Got everything plugged in (I think), but no video.
I hear the HDs spinning up, the graphics card lights up, fans spinning (I initially forgot the 8pin to it), but I get nothing to the HDMI monitor (not even CMOS.) I can try undoing the graphics card and seeing if the onboard video works, I guess, but I think it's probably something stupider than that.
No beep codes either, but I'm not sure the speaker is hooked up right.
Edit: checked. The speaker is hooked up right. Tried pulling out the gpu and running with onboard video, still nothing.
Ok. Ran to frys. Got some ram. Got everything plugged in (I think), but no video.
I hear the HDs spinning up, the graphics card lights up, fans spinning (I initially forgot the 8pin to it), but I get nothing to the HDMI monitor (not even CMOS.) I can try undoing the graphics card and seeing if the onboard video works, I guess, but I think it's probably something stupider than that.
No beep codes either, but I'm not sure the speaker is hooked up right.
With my machine, I didn't press the card in far enough to fully lock it in because that took more force than I expected it to.
Make sure the RAM is seated too. I'll mention to make sure that you're connected to the GPU and not the onboard when the GPU is plugged in since I've seen that recently as well.
Posts
The biggest reason to be perfectly optimized is less about that 1-2c temperature difference and more so you can take pictures of your build and proudly show them off to people on the internet.
bah, you got me
Doc: That's right, twenty five years into the future. I've always dreamed on seeing the future, looking beyond my years, seeing the progress of mankind. I'll also be able to see who wins the next twenty-five world series.
I'm like 90% certain GDDR5X is only available on 1080s although OEMs may be allowed to use higher quality VRAM so maybe it does?
As for whether its a good deal, it'd be easier to tell if I could see the clock speeds for the card. That said, $420 seems pretty typical. I see a number of cards listed at $430 on Newegg (cheapest MSI card with the Twin Frozr cooling solution is $440). Amazon's prices seem a bit bonkers though.
Thanks!
Also I was looking at a new processor as I have an i5-3570k but consensus online seems like meh that's not needed with overclocking. So I downloaded the intel clocking software and apparently trying to go from 3.4 ghz to 4 result in blue screens, but I think that's because I have to go through my bios. Because I changed it to 4.0 in my bios and everything seems fine and the intel software now reads that it's 4.0.
I just hope something actually changed? We'll see.
yeah, 21c is room temp low, that's really low
lower than room temp, actually
your CPU is running at that temp?
The Cooler Master SP120 Static Pressure Fans have 3.1mm of H2O pressure, so yes, that is a bit low.
I thought the look of the Predator better matched my build, plus it is IPS. That said, I did snap up that deal (monitor should arrive on my birthday!) If it's disappointing I can always send it back and pick up a different monitor.
CPU: i3 6100
MB: Gigabyte GA-H170
RAM: 8GB DDR4 2133 Kingston HyperX Fury
PSU: SeaSonic G Series 550w
SDD: Samsung Evo 250GB
HDD: 3TB Western Digital Red x3
Case: Fractal Design Define S
GPU: EVGA GTX 570*
*may be replaced with something better, still haven't really decided.
Price is a bit higher than I wanted (coming in at about $900), but with $300 in hard drives that were the reason this system is even being rebuilt theres not a whole lot I could do about that I think. Hopefully this will be the last NAS/HTPC build I need to do for a nice long while.
This is what I have learned through my research. Perfect for my needs, I'm not one for ridiculous monitors.
people only say that until they see a 144hz 1440p monitor.
I just got a new Nexus 6p that has a 1440p screen and I'm thinking this is probably true. So pretty
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
The 1440p is, eh, it is okay, but by far the better feature is the high refresh rate.
In the end of the day, literally you are the only person who can tell you what you need out of a monitor.
I'm still bummed I couldn't get G-sync, but 4K consistency across screens and a much higher pixel density were both much more important and much more affordable. After that, the quality of the monitor itself--though I went with a model that had excellent display quality from reviews (though I may end up having to replace it for a manufacturing glitch).
Do you have any specifics in terms of what you need for shape and size?
Seems mostly fine, however there are a couple things I would tweak. http://pcpartpicker.com/list/8cXXbj
1. Your motherboard is black, but the ram sticks are red. TOTALLY an aesthetic choice, but I've popped in some black Ripjaw V kits instead.
2. No familiar with the SSD manufacturer you had, and the equivalent Samsung 850 EVO is roughly $30 more, so I'd seriously consider going with our known quantity (a favorite on the forum).
3. The GPU you have there is an ITX form factor. This isn't a BAD thing, but it's only got the one fan, and a greatly reduced footprint. VERY useful for if you're trying to build a small, beastly LAN rig, not as useful in a mid tower case where you have room to stretch out. I've chosen an EVGA card with their ACX 3.0 cooler in it's stead, more cooling = better performance potential, as well as quieter operation. Also, styling should still fit the theme.
It's a marginal price increase for some additional reliability, performance, and aesthetics. Let me know if you have some specific considerations, and we can help continue to fine-tune for you.
If you're set on an optical drive, there are a LOT of cases that will serve you well. Another case worth considering is the Fractal Define R series (specifically the R5 http://pcpartpicker.com/product/nwVBD3/fractal-design-case-fdcadefr5bko). Simple aesthetic, sound dampening... Just nice all around.
The one thing I really don't like is installing the motherboard drivers. My motherboard is an ASUS Z170-A, and I'm not convinced the AI Suite or whichever component is doing its job of keeping everything up to date. I go to the driver download page and there are several random updates which I'm pretty sure I was never asked to install. Should I just go to that page and manually sift out the newest of each driver and install them all? It feels like there should be a better way to do this, or the page should be better organized, or something. Like, an up-to-date ZIP file of "install everything in here after you reinstall Windows" would be nice.
Absolutely serviceable for now, with plenty of room to upgrade. The only thing I was iffy about was the MOBO, but I got it for I think $60, which was great. And of course I'll need a better PSU at some point, and it will definitely be modular, but for now it is finally done.
All I need to do now is save for a proper moniter because this one from walmart is abyssmal.
You really don't want it installing drivers by itself, that's more likely to lead to an issue than prevent one generally speaking. On the other hand, since you are having issues, yeah, go weed out the up to date ones and see what happens. Shouldn't be too hard, though I didn't look at their possibly horrible labeling, either.
Version 6.01.7848, Realtek Audio Audio: REALTEK HM_TUF V6.0.1.7848 File Size 414.16 MB 2016/08/04
Version 6.0.1.7727, Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.1.7727 for Windows 7 32bit & 64bit / 8.1 64bit / 10 64bit.(WHQL) 256.61 MB 2016/03/16
Version 6.0.1.7661, Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.1.7661 for Windows 7 32bit & 64bit / 8.1 64bit / 10 64bit.(WHQL) 250.33 MB 2016/01/13
Version 6.0.1.7524, Realtek Audio Driver V6.0.1.7524 for Windows 7 32bit & 64bit / 8.1 64bit / 10 64bit, 408.91 MB 2015/08/04
Is the latest file a non-WHQL driver? Am I going to unpack a 414 MB file and find it has one gigantic file called HM_TUF.BIN that I need to sort out on my own?
Likewise, there are two packages in the Chipset category and they're also not named consistently so I'm mostly looking at the version numbers. But the biggest pain is the Utilities category, where I'm Googling these packages to see if I need them (Front Base Driver, HyStream, Turbo LAN, HomeCloud), and there's also a bundle of several utilities including the overclocking one, and sometimes it has 11 components and sometimes it has 5 or 2 or 8, and it's not clear to me if I need to start with the latest 11 component version and update incrementally, or if the missing components are obsolete.
This stuff could really stand to be better organized and labeled, is all.
That page sucks. They clearly intended for you to just pop in the CD and install all the drivers, but shit I don't have an optical drive anymore.
Penny Arcade Rockstar Social Club / This is why I despise cyclists
@Orogogus
HDMI issues with the Rift usually are USB issues in disguise.
Old = 2x2GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277&cm_re=f3-12800cl9d-4gbrl-_-20-231-277-_-Product
New = 2x8GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231568
Both are DDR3 1600 PC3-12800.
did you buy new ram just to get a different color?
Though I just discovered my first mistake. I bought DDR3 memory, and a ddr4 motherboard. And it don't fit.
and ouch, that's a mistake i've seen before recently. but that does unfortunately answer your question. hopefully the returns process goes quick and easy.
I hear the HDs spinning up, the graphics card lights up, fans spinning (I initially forgot the 8pin to it), but I get nothing to the HDMI monitor (not even CMOS.) I can try undoing the graphics card and seeing if the onboard video works, I guess, but I think it's probably something stupider than that.
No beep codes either, but I'm not sure the speaker is hooked up right.
Edit: checked. The speaker is hooked up right. Tried pulling out the gpu and running with onboard video, still nothing.
With my machine, I didn't press the card in far enough to fully lock it in because that took more force than I expected it to.
Ed: ok memory is good now, might have been loose before. I get video with no gpu installed
Unreal Engine 4 Developers Community.
I'm working on a cute little video game! Here's a link for you.
90% of the time it ends up being this.
Cpu power was in for sure. I think it was the ram seating, as soon as I redid that everything was happy.
Yeah, you're probably going to have to reinstall windows if you changed computers. The motherboard in particular is tied to a Windows license.