Hey painting thread, any recommendations for primer(s) to pick up for Warmachine minis, both plastic and metal? I don't really have a good spray space, so I'm wondering if an airbrush or brush-on primer would be worthwhile.
Vallejo Surface Primer. End of discussion!
It can be both airbrushed and brush-on... ed... on.
Great! I ordered a bottle. Now I need to get an airbrush. And strip the painted metal minis because the guy I bought them from went with a dark muddy metallic scheme (bleeehh). Is it even possible to strip plastic or resin?
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Plastic or resin stripping requires Simple Green (or equivalent). Just pop 'em in there for a day, then take a stiff bristle toothbrush under warm water and the paint should mostly come right off.
I have no idea what colour scheme to use for Cryx. Everything I've looked up is either muddy or gaudy.
Yeah, rusted over wrecks is the usual go to for Cryx. It's tricky with Warmachine too because if you just like go, oh I'll make them red, then everyone thinks you're playing Khador or something.
I have no idea what colour scheme to use for Cryx. Everything I've looked up is either muddy or gaudy.
Yeah, rusted over wrecks is the usual go to for Cryx. It's tricky with Warmachine too because if you just like go, oh I'll make them red, then everyone thinks you're playing Khador or something.
part of the issue is that Cryx have that kind of typical evil armour architecture - lots of flanges, sharp points with curves, spikes, etc. With the bigger flat panels of armour in other factions almost any colour can look suitable, but many colours I would enjoy painting (e.g. orange) look pretty weird on that kind of armour
I hate using metallics, for the most part, so I might do a medium grey for most of the armour plates (with edging and blending if I can get back in shape to make it more visually interesting) and then orange fading to red for weapons, claws, horns, necrovents, etc. I'd need a third colour, though, probably.
It's been a while since I looked them up, but my favorite Cryx color scheme from the PP forums used grey, blue and bubblegum pink. It sounds awful but they really look cool.
Probably a bit too high on the "gaudy" scale for what you're looking for though.
I was actually considering that scheme, because it's delightful! But I'm not sure I could pull it off. A wacky scheme like that only works if it's executed really well, I find.
+1
ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
edited November 2016
Painted an Ironjawz Megaboss for a friend. I think it turned out pretty okay.
Plastic or resin stripping requires Simple Green (or equivalent). Just pop 'em in there for a day, then take a stiff bristle toothbrush under warm water and the paint should mostly come right off.
Does Simple Green not melt resin models? I've tried to strip a few using some similar products and they get a bit... limp.
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Simple Green shouldn't melt resin models. At least, not when I've used it.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Need? Not really. As I recall, P3 are pretty liquid anyway… that said though, I would hesitate to go more than about 1/3 water and would use distilled water if possible.
Whatever you do though, water will change the properties of the paint more than a medium will so test it beforehand.
What nozzle size do you have? I'd generally recommend the medium just for the improved flow and matting (helps get an even coverage) but you might also need the retarding function of it.
I personally haven't had a very good time withe airbrushing P3, but I don't much like them in general due to their finish - and I know I'm in the minority about that.
To be honest, my vallejo airbrush medium doesn't do a good enough retarding job with my .2 nozzle, I need to add more retarder to the mix.
First time painting anything in around 15 years or so, it was a good learning experience. Mixed feelings about the overall results but it gave me a lot to work on going forward. Mostly my wash wasn't dark enough and my highlights weren't light enough. When working at such a small scale I really need to exaggerate things. Once I put my first clear coat on I feel like everything really got flattened down in terms of contrast too. Pretty happy with how the waterslide transfers went. Not very impressed with testors dullcote. Put on two thin coats of it after everything else, leaving plenty of time to dry between the coats and the models are still pretty shiny from the gloss coat.
The whole gang:
Close up of a few:
+7
Custom SpecialI know I am, I'm sure I am,I'm Sounders 'til I die!Registered Userregular
.3 needle on my cheapo airbrush. Might just try thinning my P3 a smidge with filtered water and see how it goes for a base coat.
RE stripping paint: the only time I've ever experienced resin softening is with cheap and nasty recasts from China, specifically the brittle yellow resin, and even then only when it's been left for more than a day.
Every other kind has been absolutely fine.
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There are no Ravens on this page! Time for Ravens! (I'm nearly done I promise)
Apothecary Bendysword McNeverseenagame. One day buddy. One day.
Devastator Centurions. Probably the least Raven Guard-y unit in the army, but they're so cool! I hated them to start with, but leaving off the outer armour plates really changed them for me. Also they have so many nooks and crannies that the weathering powder just loves.
Mah boyzz!
I'm totally finishing off a Seeker Squad and Kaedes Nex at the moment which will take me to 109? Models painted.
Hm, got a painting question when it comes to my plan for my Word Bearers.
I want to do them up with a glossy metallic red, like the thousand sons that were linked earlier but darker, so coats of metallic bronze and then clear red tamiya glossy paint over that.
Looking at the Calth box it comes with a lot of transfers for the Word Bearers, lots of fine fonts, geometric symbols, etc. As can be seen on this marines forearm armor:
Anyone got experience with putting transfers over glossy, metallic armor? I'm having a hard time deciding if it will look good or look terrible, and would rather not muck up one of these models via blind experimentation. (They are such nice models, it is really great to be working with GW plastic again after doing work with the Battletech box.)
Hm, got a painting question when it comes to my plan for my Word Bearers.
I want to do them up with a glossy metallic red, like the thousand sons that were linked earlier but darker, so coats of metallic bronze and then clear red tamiya glossy paint over that.
Looking at the Calth box it comes with a lot of transfers for the Word Bearers, lots of fine fonts, geometric symbols, etc. As can be seen on this marines forearm armor:
Anyone got experience with putting transfers over glossy, metallic armor? I'm having a hard time deciding if it will look good or look terrible, and would rather not muck up one of these models via blind experimentation. (They are such nice models, it is really great to be working with GW plastic again after doing work with the Battletech box.)
The writing on that dudes forearm is freehand stuff. But I did a whole Word Bearers army is the Forgeworld metallic red and other decals went on just fine.
edit: Asher, how did you do the weathering on those Raven Guard?
The whole process if born of laziness and so is pretty quick.
1: Prime black
2: Spray mostly Vallejo Modelair Panzer Dark Grey zenithally to leave black in shadows
3: Apply highlights to raised areas with Vallejo model air pale blue grey
4: Sponge edges and raised surfaces that would suffer chipping with black.
At this point some explanation. The grey is dark enough that the eye reads it as black, but sponging on real black still gives a noticeable chipping effect.
5: Sponge edges etc with boltgun metal or equivalent.
7: Paint the rest of the model I guess?
8: Just fuck it up with weathering powder I mean seriously go nuts. Get a bit on a shitty brush and just jam it into recesses and mush it about . Don't seal it immediately. You want some to rub off through normal handling to leave it in the recesses.
You can also add scratches and larger chips with a brush I guess but I am too lazy for that.
Wait, you mean the pigments on those Ravens are sealed?? With what?
+1
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Uh? Doesn't everyone seal their weathering powders? Like how would you play with the minis otherwise?
(I use the trick the Forge World studio guy showed me at a Games Day: well watered matte varnish. Apply it dropwise in small amounts to the edge of where the pigment is and let capillary action take it into the bulk of the powder to minimise shifting. It dries about half a shade darker than the base pigment, so take that into account)
So now that it looks like I'm doomed to get some Ironjawz, I'm considering how to make that slightly orange-yellow armor of theirs - I want the base to be that tone, not just the shadows.
Might experiment with that new GW tint set.
0
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Warhammer TV guy has a video about them. Quite interesting. The demonstration is how to get Alpha Legion metallic blue in one pot, as modelled by Alpharius.
Uh? Doesn't everyone seal their weathering powders? Like how would you play with the minis otherwise?
(I use the trick the Forge World studio guy showed me at a Games Day: well watered matte varnish. Apply it dropwise in small amounts to the edge of where the pigment is and let capillary action take it into the bulk of the powder to minimise shifting. It dries about half a shade darker than the base pigment, so take that into account)
Maybe it's the particular pigment I tried so far, MIG european earth, a very light brown, but whatever I used to fix the pigment made 90% dissapear and the rest turned into a mud brown several shades darker than before.
More model kit than miniatures, but has anyone had experience doing the panel lines on Gundam models?
I've been super interested in getting some for ages and a secret santa elsewhere got me one. I know they do those markers but the results seem a bit inconsistent from the pictures, so was wondering if a watered down black acrylic or wash over a topcoated layer would get better results.
More model kit than miniatures, but has anyone had experience doing the panel lines on Gundam models?
I've been super interested in getting some for ages and a secret santa elsewhere got me one. I know they do those markers but the results seem a bit inconsistent from the pictures, so was wondering if a watered down black acrylic or wash over a topcoated layer would get better results.
I'm not that familiar with Gundams but an oil wash over a gloss coat is probably the best way to achieve good panel lining on a model as long as there are at least shallow contures. Also the easiest to correct if you gat paint where it isn't supposed to go. Depending on the base colour I'd use black or something like payne's grey.
+1
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
More model kit than miniatures, but has anyone had experience doing the panel lines on Gundam models?
I've been super interested in getting some for ages and a secret santa elsewhere got me one. I know they do those markers but the results seem a bit inconsistent from the pictures, so was wondering if a watered down black acrylic or wash over a topcoated layer would get better results.
I'm not that familiar with Gundams but an oil wash over a gloss coat is probably the best way to achieve good panel lining on a model as long as there are at least shallow contures. Also the easiest to correct if you gat paint where it isn't supposed to go. Depending on the base colour I'd use black or something like payne's grey.
Yeah, if the panel lines are recessed even a little on the model, this is the way to go. Plus you can achieve bunches of other neat effects with oil washes too, like thermal discolouration of metal parts.
Uh? Doesn't everyone seal their weathering powders? Like how would you play with the minis otherwise?
(I use the trick the Forge World studio guy showed me at a Games Day: well watered matte varnish. Apply it dropwise in small amounts to the edge of where the pigment is and let capillary action take it into the bulk of the powder to minimise shifting. It dries about half a shade darker than the base pigment, so take that into account)
Maybe it's the particular pigment I tried so far, MIG european earth, a very light brown, but whatever I used to fix the pigment made 90% dissapear and the rest turned into a mud brown several shades darker than before.
It could be that maybe grain size is a factor? I have zero experience with MIG though so I can't be sure; I use Vallejo and/or Forge World's own when I pigment stuff.
Posts
Great! I ordered a bottle. Now I need to get an airbrush. And strip the painted metal minis because the guy I bought them from went with a dark muddy metallic scheme (bleeehh). Is it even possible to strip plastic or resin?
Don't use your own toothbrush. I always use someone else's.
I have no idea what colour scheme to use for Cryx. Everything I've looked up is either muddy or gaudy.
Also useful advice for cleaning toilets and the always-refreshing taint buffing.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Yeah, rusted over wrecks is the usual go to for Cryx. It's tricky with Warmachine too because if you just like go, oh I'll make them red, then everyone thinks you're playing Khador or something.
A bunch of Chaos paint schemes could work with them, I think. Pre-Nurgle Death Guard for something lighter, for example.
part of the issue is that Cryx have that kind of typical evil armour architecture - lots of flanges, sharp points with curves, spikes, etc. With the bigger flat panels of armour in other factions almost any colour can look suitable, but many colours I would enjoy painting (e.g. orange) look pretty weird on that kind of armour
I hate using metallics, for the most part, so I might do a medium grey for most of the armour plates (with edging and blending if I can get back in shape to make it more visually interesting) and then orange fading to red for weapons, claws, horns, necrovents, etc. I'd need a third colour, though, probably.
Probably a bit too high on the "gaudy" scale for what you're looking for though.
Painted an Ironjawz Megaboss for a friend. I think it turned out pretty okay.
Does Simple Green not melt resin models? I've tried to strip a few using some similar products and they get a bit... limp.
Resin is a fickle beast.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Whatever you do though, water will change the properties of the paint more than a medium will so test it beforehand.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
I personally haven't had a very good time withe airbrushing P3, but I don't much like them in general due to their finish - and I know I'm in the minority about that.
To be honest, my vallejo airbrush medium doesn't do a good enough retarding job with my .2 nozzle, I need to add more retarder to the mix.
First time painting anything in around 15 years or so, it was a good learning experience. Mixed feelings about the overall results but it gave me a lot to work on going forward. Mostly my wash wasn't dark enough and my highlights weren't light enough. When working at such a small scale I really need to exaggerate things. Once I put my first clear coat on I feel like everything really got flattened down in terms of contrast too. Pretty happy with how the waterslide transfers went. Not very impressed with testors dullcote. Put on two thin coats of it after everything else, leaving plenty of time to dry between the coats and the models are still pretty shiny from the gloss coat.
Close up of a few:
Every other kind has been absolutely fine.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Apothecary Bendysword McNeverseenagame. One day buddy. One day.
Devastator Centurions. Probably the least Raven Guard-y unit in the army, but they're so cool! I hated them to start with, but leaving off the outer armour plates really changed them for me. Also they have so many nooks and crannies that the weathering powder just loves.
Mah boyzz!
I'm totally finishing off a Seeker Squad and Kaedes Nex at the moment which will take me to 109? Models painted.
I want to do them up with a glossy metallic red, like the thousand sons that were linked earlier but darker, so coats of metallic bronze and then clear red tamiya glossy paint over that.
Looking at the Calth box it comes with a lot of transfers for the Word Bearers, lots of fine fonts, geometric symbols, etc. As can be seen on this marines forearm armor:
Anyone got experience with putting transfers over glossy, metallic armor? I'm having a hard time deciding if it will look good or look terrible, and would rather not muck up one of these models via blind experimentation. (They are such nice models, it is really great to be working with GW plastic again after doing work with the Battletech box.)
WiP Warp Spider Exarch
The writing on that dudes forearm is freehand stuff. But I did a whole Word Bearers army is the Forgeworld metallic red and other decals went on just fine.
edit: Asher, how did you do the weathering on those Raven Guard?
The whole process if born of laziness and so is pretty quick.
1: Prime black
2: Spray mostly Vallejo Modelair Panzer Dark Grey zenithally to leave black in shadows
3: Apply highlights to raised areas with Vallejo model air pale blue grey
4: Sponge edges and raised surfaces that would suffer chipping with black.
At this point some explanation. The grey is dark enough that the eye reads it as black, but sponging on real black still gives a noticeable chipping effect.
5: Sponge edges etc with boltgun metal or equivalent.
7: Paint the rest of the model I guess?
8: Just fuck it up with weathering powder I mean seriously go nuts. Get a bit on a shitty brush and just jam it into recesses and mush it about . Don't seal it immediately. You want some to rub off through normal handling to leave it in the recesses.
You can also add scratches and larger chips with a brush I guess but I am too lazy for that.
(I use the trick the Forge World studio guy showed me at a Games Day: well watered matte varnish. Apply it dropwise in small amounts to the edge of where the pigment is and let capillary action take it into the bulk of the powder to minimise shifting. It dries about half a shade darker than the base pigment, so take that into account)
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Edit: I'm now sure how good it will stand up though, as I haven't really gamed with the models...
Might experiment with that new GW tint set.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Maybe it's the particular pigment I tried so far, MIG european earth, a very light brown, but whatever I used to fix the pigment made 90% dissapear and the rest turned into a mud brown several shades darker than before.
I've been super interested in getting some for ages and a secret santa elsewhere got me one. I know they do those markers but the results seem a bit inconsistent from the pictures, so was wondering if a watered down black acrylic or wash over a topcoated layer would get better results.
I'm not that familiar with Gundams but an oil wash over a gloss coat is probably the best way to achieve good panel lining on a model as long as there are at least shallow contures. Also the easiest to correct if you gat paint where it isn't supposed to go. Depending on the base colour I'd use black or something like payne's grey.
Yeah, if the panel lines are recessed even a little on the model, this is the way to go. Plus you can achieve bunches of other neat effects with oil washes too, like thermal discolouration of metal parts.
It could be that maybe grain size is a factor? I have zero experience with MIG though so I can't be sure; I use Vallejo and/or Forge World's own when I pigment stuff.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.