ceresWhen the last moon is cast over the last star of morningAnd the future has past without even a last desperate warningRegistered User, Moderatormod
Okay so how about tomatillos? I made this pozole over the weekend that needed a ton of them, and it came out good and all but it was the first time I'd ever worked with the things and frankly... they're kind of disgusting. Waxy and sticky and awful. I ended up not using ones that looked really dubious (since they were covered when I bought them), but I really had no idea what shape they were supposed to be, or what they look or feel like when they're ripe.
And it seems like all is dying, and would leave the world to mourn
When purchasing an avocado, color is not as important as many people think. The avocado should yield slightly to gentle pressure without being squishy if you wish to use it immediately. An avocado that is hard to the touch will ripen in 3-5 days at room temperature. If you are making a large dish and have the time, purchase hard avocados a week ahead of time and leave them on your counter. As each avocado becomes soft enough to yield to gentle pressure, immediately move it to the refrigerator. This will slow the ripening process and allow you to accrue a sizable number of avocados at the ideal point of ripeness.
You can also tell the ripeness of an avocado by lifting up the stem on the fat end. Green is good, brown is bad.
Man!
Where were you that time I bought an avacado? "Is it kind of squishy when you sorta squish it?" only helps if you've ever handled a ripe avacado.
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JedocIn the scupperswith the staggers and jagsRegistered Userregular
Okay so how about tomatillos? I made this pozole over the weekend that needed a ton of them, and it came out good and all but it was the first time I'd ever worked with the things and frankly... they're kind of disgusting. Waxy and sticky and awful. I ended up not using ones that looked really dubious (since they were covered when I bought them), but I really had no idea what shape they were supposed to be, or what they look or feel like when they're ripe.
Buy canned. It seems counterintuitive, but tomatillos have a very short harvesting season, and the kind you get from a greenhouse are horseshit. Unless you're buying them from a farmer's market very close to Mexico, modern canning techniques are going to give you a much better product than "fresh."
If it makes you feel better, a professional chef will always go for quality whole canned tomatoes for sauces unless they know damn well where the available fresh tomatoes were shipped from and how they were grown.
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ceresWhen the last moon is cast over the last star of morningAnd the future has past without even a last desperate warningRegistered User, Moderatormod
Okay so how about tomatillos? I made this pozole over the weekend that needed a ton of them, and it came out good and all but it was the first time I'd ever worked with the things and frankly... they're kind of disgusting. Waxy and sticky and awful. I ended up not using ones that looked really dubious (since they were covered when I bought them), but I really had no idea what shape they were supposed to be, or what they look or feel like when they're ripe.
Buy canned. It seems counterintuitive, but tomatillos have a very short harvesting season, and the kind you get from a greenhouse are horseshit. Unless you're buying them from a farmer's market very close to Mexico, modern canning techniques are going to give you a much better product than "fresh."
If it makes you feel better, a professional chef will always go for quality whole canned tomatoes for sauces unless they know damn well where the available fresh tomatoes were shipped from and how they were grown.
Really? Ugh. I hate doing that when I can chop the actual fruit myself, but I have to admit... they didn't have as much... taste? as I thought they would. I had to buy pretty much everything they had for this recipe and they were so gross to handle that if I can do better with canned I'm really not sure it's worth it. Chopping fucking tomatillos for my food processor is pretty much what took all the time. If I could have opened the can it would have been a 15-minute affair to get the stuff cooking.
And it seems like all is dying, and would leave the world to mourn
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firewaterwordSatchitanandaPais Vasco to San FranciscoRegistered Userregular
yeah the sticky shit on tomatillos grosses me out so I go canned as well.
Lokah Samastah Sukhino Bhavantu
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Giggles_FunsworthBlight on DiscourseBay Area SprawlRegistered Userregular
JedocIn the scupperswith the staggers and jagsRegistered Userregular
If a calf is rejected by its mother, move it as soon as possible to a stable or lean-to. Ensure that the ground is covered with plenty of dry straw, and hang some sort of heat lamp from the ceiling where the calf can't get to it. Unless the weather is extremely cold, an incandescent utility lamp will suffice.
If the calf was rejected before its first feeding, you will want to feed it up to a quart of colustrum (milk produced in the late stages of pregnancy. This can be acquired cheaply from local dairies and kept frozen until needed.) If no colustrum is available, mix together one quart of warm water with a cup of powdered milk (protein level 25% or higher,) two eggs, a tablespoon of honey, and one dose of water-soluble A, D, and E vitamins (available from any farm supply store and good for long-term storage in the fridge.)
A good calf bottle is cheaply available from any farm supply store and will save you a world of trouble over bucket feeding. Keep the bottle at a steep vertical angle to prevent bubbles and bloating. Be sure to take the bottle away before the calf sucks it dry for the same reason.
If the calf refuses the bottle, straddle it facing forward and lean over its head while you offer the nipple. This is awkward, but will help the calf feel secure for the first few feedings.
After the initial colustrum feeding, give the calf three one-quart bottles of powdered milk per day, mixed into warm water according to the instructions on the bag. Mixing an egg into the milk can ensure strong early growth, and honey can prevent constipation. Continue this regimen for the first two weeks.
At the end of the first week, start putting out small amounts of alfalfa hay and calf pellets in a feeding bowl. The calf may not eat at first, but it's important to have solid food available when they're ready. As soon as the calf starts eating solid food, make sure to have a steady supply of fresh water available.
After two weeks, reduce the bottle feeding to two one-quart bottles per day. Continue until the calf is four months old or until they start refusing the bottle. Once they start eating solid food, supplement the alfalfa with oats, ground corn, soy meal, and small amounts of salt. After four months, they should be ready to release into the herd and forage for themselves.
If a calf is rejected by its mother, move it as soon as possible to a stable or lean-to. Ensure that the ground is covered with plenty of dry straw, and hang some sort of heat lamp from the ceiling where the calf can't get to it. Unless the weather is extremely cold, an incandescent utility lamp will suffice.
If the calf was rejected before its first feeding, you will want to feed it up to a quart of colustrum (milk produced in the late stages of pregnancy. This can be acquired cheaply from local dairies and kept frozen until needed.) If no colustrum is available, mix together one quart of warm water with a cup of powdered milk (protein level 25% or higher,) two eggs, a tablespoon of honey, and one dose of water-soluble A, D, and E vitamins (available from any farm supply store and good for long-term storage in the fridge.)
A good calf bottle is cheaply available from any farm supply store and will save you a world of trouble over bucket feeding. Keep the bottle at a steep vertical angle to prevent bubbles and bloating. Be sure to take the bottle away before the calf sucks it dry for the same reason.
If the calf refuses the bottle, straddle it facing forward and lean over its head while you offer the nipple. This is awkward, but will help the calf feel secure for the first few feedings.
After the initial colustrum feeding, give the calf three one-quart bottles of powdered milk per day, mixed into warm water according to the instructions on the bag. Mixing an egg into the milk can ensure strong early growth, and honey can prevent constipation. Continue this regimen for the first two weeks.
At the end of the first week, start putting out small amounts of alfalfa hay and calf pellets in a feeding bowl. The calf may not eat at first, but it's important to have solid food available when they're ready. As soon as the calf starts eating solid food, make sure to have a steady supply of fresh water available.
After two weeks, reduce the bottle feeding to two one-quart bottles per day. Continue until the calf is four months old or until they start refusing the bottle. Once they start eating solid food, supplement the alfalfa with oats, ground corn, soy meal, and small amounts of salt. After four months, they should be ready to release into the herd and forage for themselves.
If you're ever lost in the woods, walk in as close as a straight line as you can go until you reach running water. Then follow that downstream. It will feed into larger bodies of flowing water, which is where people tend to be.
My luck I'd end up parallel to a river I couldn't see that eventually turns away from me!
JedocIn the scupperswith the staggers and jagsRegistered Userregular
Eat at Arby's.
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ceresWhen the last moon is cast over the last star of morningAnd the future has past without even a last desperate warningRegistered User, Moderatormod
Go hiking.
And it seems like all is dying, and would leave the world to mourn
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ceresWhen the last moon is cast over the last star of morningAnd the future has past without even a last desperate warningRegistered User, Moderatormod
edited December 2016
If you do go hiking, for God's sake don't be like be like me. Wear the right shoes for the terrain and have a camel pack the FIRST time you go out, don't try to make it two more trips lugging bottles of water in a normal backpack wearing tennis shoes like I did. Those two things make all the difference in the world, even to a beginner.
ceres on
And it seems like all is dying, and would leave the world to mourn
If you're ever lost in the woods, walk in as close as a straight line as you can go until you reach running water. Then follow that downstream. It will feed into larger bodies of flowing water, which is where people tend to be.
what's a water and why is it running?
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MariisunIn the plains of NefirRegistered Userregular
If you're ever lost in the woods, walk in as close as a straight line as you can go until you reach running water. Then follow that downstream. It will feed into larger bodies of flowing water, which is where people tend to be.
what's a water and why is it running?
Well I don't know what a water is but I imagine it's running for the same reason everything runs........to get away from its problems.......... Just like us.
If you do go hiking, for God's sake don't be like be like me. Wear the right shoes for the terrain and have a camel pack the FIRST time you go out, don't try to make it two more trips lugging bottles of water in a normal backpack wearing tennis shoes like I did. Those two things make all the difference in the world, even to a beginner.
If you're hiking in predator territory (take 10 minutes or whatever and check), bring deterrent.
No, bells aren't deterrent.
With Love and Courage
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MariisunIn the plains of NefirRegistered Userregular
If you do go hiking, for God's sake don't be like be like me. Wear the right shoes for the terrain and have a camel pack the FIRST time you go out, don't try to make it two more trips lugging bottles of water in a normal backpack wearing tennis shoes like I did. Those two things make all the difference in the world, even to a beginner.
If you're hiking in predator territory (take 10 minutes or whatever and check), bring deterrent.
Could a mod spelunk back into the Holiday forum for me? I got some tech/computer help in the Build me a computer thread (I think thats what it was called)
Someone linked a comprehensive list of things to try if your computer wont post/show anything and I'm having trouble finding that info again.
L Ron HowardThe duckMinnesotaRegistered Userregular
Calling the predator Senpai.
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ceresWhen the last moon is cast over the last star of morningAnd the future has past without even a last desperate warningRegistered User, Moderatormod
I just built a computer for my wife but its having some issues. Well. Specifically one issue.
So, the computer turns on, no bios, post, flash, or text of any kind. Both case fans and cpu cooler fan running, mobo leds are on, front case leds are on, and then the computer power cycles at 17-18 seconds.
I have only basic pc construction knowledge. Not enough to properly troubleshoot. Rechecked all power connections to motherboard, checked fan connects, detached and reapplied cpu cooler, disconnected graphics card and sata cables. Tried memory in different slots. No changes. Any help would be hugely appreciated as I dont really know where to go from here.
Parts list:
Mobo - Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI Intel Skylake ATX
CPU - Intel Core i7 6700K
Cooler - Cooler Master Hyper 212X CPU Cooler
Ram - Ballistix Sport LT 32GB Kit (16GBx2) DDR4 2400
PSU - Corsair CP-9020097-UK VS550
Graphics - MSI GeForce GTX 1070 ARMOR 8G
HDD - Seagate Desktop 3.5 inch 2TB 7200
SSD - Samsung 120 gb
You might have forgotten to plug in the CPU power. There should be a connector somewhere near the cpu that fits a plug similar to the kind that powers your graphics card. Make sure that's plugged in.
I have both the 8 pin and the 24 pin plugged in, is that it or is there an extra plug I should be scouring the board for?
Ill order a new battery and try that I guess! Then to try and return the motherboard....
You can buy the battery at a hardware store, and even most pharmacies. CR2032 are as cheap as $2 if you shop around. I've saved at least a dozen 'broken' motherboards with new CMOS batteries. Looking at the reviews, your board is almost two years old. It wouldn't surprise me if the battery simply lost charge over time.
If you have another computer laying around, try the power supply on it and see if it posts. That's the easiest way to troubleshoot that. If you have 24 and 8pin plugged in, you should be good; though if you have a 20+4pin connector, make sure it's seated correctly.
Another problem could be that your 1070 is DOA, and it is posting, just not showing on the monitor. Try using the on-board video.
If none of that works, ship the motherboard back. BIOS should post even if you don't have the HDD/GPU/RAM installed.
"Best if used by [date]" is an advisory, not a rule. Many people, especially those in their early 20s just starting on their own, don't realize this, and you can save a not-insignificant amount of money accordingly.
If you do go hiking, for God's sake don't be like be like me. Wear the right shoes for the terrain and have a camel pack the FIRST time you go out, don't try to make it two more trips lugging bottles of water in a normal backpack wearing tennis shoes like I did. Those two things make all the difference in the world, even to a beginner.
If you're hiking in predator territory (take 10 minutes or whatever and check), bring deterrent.
If you do go hiking, for God's sake don't be like be like me. Wear the right shoes for the terrain and have a camel pack the FIRST time you go out, don't try to make it two more trips lugging bottles of water in a normal backpack wearing tennis shoes like I did. Those two things make all the difference in the world, even to a beginner.
If you're hiking in predator territory (take 10 minutes or whatever and check), bring deterrent.
No, bells aren't deterrent.
What would count as deterrent?
Anything that has a proven effect in terms of convincing a predator, in the unlikely event of a face to face encounter, that trying to take you out is no Bueno - or, alternatively, anything that will forcefully stop a predator.
Bear spray & bear bangers fit into the former category, firearms fit into the latter. I'm not personally a fan of firearms, but if that's what you're comfortable with then that's what you should probably bring with you.
You don't need to be super paranoid if you're going hiking in an area where the last bear/cougar/wolf encounter with a person was in 1742 or something, but if you're going into a place with a relatively high incidence rate ('relatively high' would be, say, an encounter - peaceful or not - at least once per year), IMHO it is absolutely necessary to carry a deterrent with you. If a big bear or cat shows up and you have to scare it off with bear spray, you'll have some stress to deal with & a story to tell - if one shows up and decides to take you out, you'll be either toast or maimed and the animal will be shot by either park services or police.
If someone takes a firearm to deter bears say, do they take something that could actually kill it or is a 9mm enough to make a bear say "man, fuck this"
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ceresWhen the last moon is cast over the last star of morningAnd the future has past without even a last desperate warningRegistered User, Moderatormod
Depends highly on the bear.
And it seems like all is dying, and would leave the world to mourn
Rifles used for protection against polar bears shall have a minimum calibre of .308W or 30-06
(7.62 mm). Rifle bullets shall be expanding, with a minimum bullet weight of 11.5 g. The
required impact energy shall be 2,700 J, measured at a distance of 100 m.
Shotguns used for protection against polar bears shall have a minimum calibre of 12, and
should have a magazine permitting a minimum of four shots (automatic or pump-action
shotgun). The use of slugs (shotgun ammunition comprised of one projectile) is
recommended for protection against polar bears.
Handguns for which an applicant is seeking a permit for use as protection against polar bears
shall have a minimum calibre of 44.
Ammunition to be used for protection against polar bears shall have a minimum weight of
15.5 g and a minimum muzzle energy of 1,200 J.
Posts
You just do the thing bro.
steam | xbox live: IGNORANT HARLOT | psn: MadRoll | nintendo network: spinach
3ds: 1504-5717-8252
Man!
Where were you that time I bought an avacado? "Is it kind of squishy when you sorta squish it?" only helps if you've ever handled a ripe avacado.
Buy canned. It seems counterintuitive, but tomatillos have a very short harvesting season, and the kind you get from a greenhouse are horseshit. Unless you're buying them from a farmer's market very close to Mexico, modern canning techniques are going to give you a much better product than "fresh."
If it makes you feel better, a professional chef will always go for quality whole canned tomatoes for sauces unless they know damn well where the available fresh tomatoes were shipped from and how they were grown.
Really? Ugh. I hate doing that when I can chop the actual fruit myself, but I have to admit... they didn't have as much... taste? as I thought they would. I had to buy pretty much everything they had for this recipe and they were so gross to handle that if I can do better with canned I'm really not sure it's worth it. Chopping fucking tomatillos for my food processor is pretty much what took all the time. If I could have opened the can it would have been a 15-minute affair to get the stuff cooking.
Also wtf Jedoc is just a font of wisdom.
It's fire. I ain't scared of Big Penis.
Pretty sure these are related.
Steam Me
If the calf was rejected before its first feeding, you will want to feed it up to a quart of colustrum (milk produced in the late stages of pregnancy. This can be acquired cheaply from local dairies and kept frozen until needed.) If no colustrum is available, mix together one quart of warm water with a cup of powdered milk (protein level 25% or higher,) two eggs, a tablespoon of honey, and one dose of water-soluble A, D, and E vitamins (available from any farm supply store and good for long-term storage in the fridge.)
A good calf bottle is cheaply available from any farm supply store and will save you a world of trouble over bucket feeding. Keep the bottle at a steep vertical angle to prevent bubbles and bloating. Be sure to take the bottle away before the calf sucks it dry for the same reason.
If the calf refuses the bottle, straddle it facing forward and lean over its head while you offer the nipple. This is awkward, but will help the calf feel secure for the first few feedings.
After the initial colustrum feeding, give the calf three one-quart bottles of powdered milk per day, mixed into warm water according to the instructions on the bag. Mixing an egg into the milk can ensure strong early growth, and honey can prevent constipation. Continue this regimen for the first two weeks.
At the end of the first week, start putting out small amounts of alfalfa hay and calf pellets in a feeding bowl. The calf may not eat at first, but it's important to have solid food available when they're ready. As soon as the calf starts eating solid food, make sure to have a steady supply of fresh water available.
After two weeks, reduce the bottle feeding to two one-quart bottles per day. Continue until the calf is four months old or until they start refusing the bottle. Once they start eating solid food, supplement the alfalfa with oats, ground corn, soy meal, and small amounts of salt. After four months, they should be ready to release into the herd and forage for themselves.
Can agree, from experience.
My luck I'd end up parallel to a river I couldn't see that eventually turns away from me!
what's a water and why is it running?
Well I don't know what a water is but I imagine it's running for the same reason everything runs........to get away from its problems.......... Just like us.
If you're hiking in predator territory (take 10 minutes or whatever and check), bring deterrent.
No, bells aren't deterrent.
What would count as deterrent?
Someone linked a comprehensive list of things to try if your computer wont post/show anything and I'm having trouble finding that info again.
?
I appreciate the effort, if that means anything.
A .45 or something in .44.
Anything that has a proven effect in terms of convincing a predator, in the unlikely event of a face to face encounter, that trying to take you out is no Bueno - or, alternatively, anything that will forcefully stop a predator.
Bear spray & bear bangers fit into the former category, firearms fit into the latter. I'm not personally a fan of firearms, but if that's what you're comfortable with then that's what you should probably bring with you.
You don't need to be super paranoid if you're going hiking in an area where the last bear/cougar/wolf encounter with a person was in 1742 or something, but if you're going into a place with a relatively high incidence rate ('relatively high' would be, say, an encounter - peaceful or not - at least once per year), IMHO it is absolutely necessary to carry a deterrent with you. If a big bear or cat shows up and you have to scare it off with bear spray, you'll have some stress to deal with & a story to tell - if one shows up and decides to take you out, you'll be either toast or maimed and the animal will be shot by either park services or police.
Svalbard, where guns are compulsory.
Here's the guidelines:
LINK TO PDF
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