I wish I didn't know people who basically think that way. As great as climbing is, there are some INCREDIBLY toxic parts of the community. Though those people are fun to laugh at.
The nice thing was that we used to have a really respected pro climb at our crappy gym and he was the nicest person ever, so that shut down the grognards.
Nothing makes you feel like you can't climb like watching someone campus the entire bouldering area roof in a lap while wearing a 50 lb weight vest.
Can you still have an unnecessary amount of grigis that will constant make noise as you climb?
Do you mean nuts and cams? How many grigris is it "normal" to carry, other than your main and maybe a backup?
I am now imagining one of those safety booklets included with gear such as cams showing that you shouldn't place a gri-gri as pro. In fact given all the images out there of random stuff used as pro I'm shocked that GIS doesn't have an image of a gri-gri wedged into a crack and clipped.
What you only carry one gri-gri? How do you protect those sick crack climbs then bro?
Climbing is in for a shock once the 2020 Olympics happen and there is a massive upsurge in interest around the world, like what happened with snowboarding. You'll get the old hats and the hardcore saying it isn't the sport they grew up with (or the format they want) so they won't compete (or will use that excuse so they don't get banned by WADA for a few years like Sharma did because smoking weed ranks higher than abiding by the rules of competition). Meanwhile the exposure to a wider crowd will deepen the genetic talent pool and we'll see an upswing of crushers who push grades further than ever. I'm all for more and more people climbing. More people = more awareness for the need to support our national parks and preserve our outdoor climbing areas, etc.
All the while I'll be maybe climbing half the grade that they are while cursing their strength/bodyweight ratios and wishing I started doing this 20 years ago.
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
4 days in the climbing gym from Monday to Monday.
Related, here's a good article on Black Diamond about preventing and treating elbow injury.
Climbing is in for a shock once the 2020 Olympics happen and there is a massive upsurge in interest around the world, like what happened with snowboarding. You'll get the old hats and the hardcore saying it isn't the sport they grew up with (or the format they want) so they won't compete (or will use that excuse so they don't get banned by WADA for a few years like Sharma did because smoking weed ranks higher than abiding by the rules of competition). Meanwhile the exposure to a wider crowd will deepen the genetic talent pool and we'll see an upswing of crushers who push grades further than ever. I'm all for more and more people climbing. More people = more awareness for the need to support our national parks and preserve our outdoor climbing areas, etc.
All the while I'll be maybe climbing half the grade that they are while cursing their strength/bodyweight ratios and wishing I started doing this 20 years ago.
Eh, there's enough entry pain that I'm not sure that it will get meaningfully bigger. Climbing is hard and frustrating, which a lot of people don't like dealing with. On top of that, there's already a bunch of genetic freaks out there (Ondra). Given that one of the primary gates to harder climbing is pain tolerance and continual practice, I think it will remain niche.
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
Climbing is in for a shock once the 2020 Olympics happen and there is a massive upsurge in interest around the world, like what happened with snowboarding. You'll get the old hats and the hardcore saying it isn't the sport they grew up with (or the format they want) so they won't compete (or will use that excuse so they don't get banned by WADA for a few years like Sharma did because smoking weed ranks higher than abiding by the rules of competition). Meanwhile the exposure to a wider crowd will deepen the genetic talent pool and we'll see an upswing of crushers who push grades further than ever. I'm all for more and more people climbing. More people = more awareness for the need to support our national parks and preserve our outdoor climbing areas, etc.
All the while I'll be maybe climbing half the grade that they are while cursing their strength/bodyweight ratios and wishing I started doing this 20 years ago.
Eh, there's enough entry pain that I'm not sure that it will get meaningfully bigger. Climbing is hard and frustrating, which a lot of people don't like dealing with. On top of that, there's already a bunch of genetic freaks out there (Ondra). Given that one of the primary gates to harder climbing is pain tolerance and continual practice, I think it will remain niche.
Consider what's happened to DJing the past decade or so.
-lots of new people
-with lots of flashy equipment
-and not a lot of practice
I expect you'll see lots of griping from old-timers, lots of complaining that people these days have it too easy with their newfangled ______, and increased crowds in popular climbing destinations. Also, those crowds might not be hip to etiquette that's currently expected in the scene. Lots of non-climbers will see the inevitable blockbuster climbing movie and probably gain some wildly inaccurate beliefs about what climbing is about.
This isn't a bad thing, mind, and it's unquestionably a good thing for eg climbers trying to make a living from sponsorships and competitions.
Climbing is in for a shock once the 2020 Olympics happen and there is a massive upsurge in interest around the world, like what happened with snowboarding. You'll get the old hats and the hardcore saying it isn't the sport they grew up with (or the format they want) so they won't compete (or will use that excuse so they don't get banned by WADA for a few years like Sharma did because smoking weed ranks higher than abiding by the rules of competition). Meanwhile the exposure to a wider crowd will deepen the genetic talent pool and we'll see an upswing of crushers who push grades further than ever. I'm all for more and more people climbing. More people = more awareness for the need to support our national parks and preserve our outdoor climbing areas, etc.
All the while I'll be maybe climbing half the grade that they are while cursing their strength/bodyweight ratios and wishing I started doing this 20 years ago.
Eh, there's enough entry pain that I'm not sure that it will get meaningfully bigger. Climbing is hard and frustrating, which a lot of people don't like dealing with. On top of that, there's already a bunch of genetic freaks out there (Ondra). Given that one of the primary gates to harder climbing is pain tolerance and continual practice, I think it will remain niche.
Consider what's happened to DJing the past decade or so.
-lots of new people
-with lots of flashy equipment
-and not a lot of practice
I expect you'll see lots of griping from old-timers, lots of complaining that people these days have it too easy with their newfangled ______, and increased crowds in popular climbing destinations. Also, those crowds might not be hip to etiquette that's currently expected in the scene. Lots of non-climbers will see the inevitable blockbuster climbing movie and probably gain some wildly inaccurate beliefs about what climbing is about.
This isn't a bad thing, mind, and it's unquestionably a good thing for eg climbers trying to make a living from sponsorships and competitions.
But Cliffhanger already came out!
+3
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Tynnanseldom correct, never unsureRegistered Userregular
Climbing is in for a shock once the 2020 Olympics happen and there is a massive upsurge in interest around the world, like what happened with snowboarding. You'll get the old hats and the hardcore saying it isn't the sport they grew up with (or the format they want) so they won't compete (or will use that excuse so they don't get banned by WADA for a few years like Sharma did because smoking weed ranks higher than abiding by the rules of competition). Meanwhile the exposure to a wider crowd will deepen the genetic talent pool and we'll see an upswing of crushers who push grades further than ever. I'm all for more and more people climbing. More people = more awareness for the need to support our national parks and preserve our outdoor climbing areas, etc.
All the while I'll be maybe climbing half the grade that they are while cursing their strength/bodyweight ratios and wishing I started doing this 20 years ago.
Eh, there's enough entry pain that I'm not sure that it will get meaningfully bigger. Climbing is hard and frustrating, which a lot of people don't like dealing with. On top of that, there's already a bunch of genetic freaks out there (Ondra). Given that one of the primary gates to harder climbing is pain tolerance and continual practice, I think it will remain niche.
Consider what's happened to DJing the past decade or so.
-lots of new people
-with lots of flashy equipment
-and not a lot of practice
I expect you'll see lots of griping from old-timers, lots of complaining that people these days have it too easy with their newfangled ______, and increased crowds in popular climbing destinations. Also, those crowds might not be hip to etiquette that's currently expected in the scene. Lots of non-climbers will see the inevitable blockbuster climbing movie and probably gain some wildly inaccurate beliefs about what climbing is about.
This isn't a bad thing, mind, and it's unquestionably a good thing for eg climbers trying to make a living from sponsorships and competitions.
But Cliffhanger already came out!
You better not be talking smack about Cliffhanger!
Climbing is in for a shock once the 2020 Olympics happen and there is a massive upsurge in interest around the world, like what happened with snowboarding. You'll get the old hats and the hardcore saying it isn't the sport they grew up with (or the format they want) so they won't compete (or will use that excuse so they don't get banned by WADA for a few years like Sharma did because smoking weed ranks higher than abiding by the rules of competition). Meanwhile the exposure to a wider crowd will deepen the genetic talent pool and we'll see an upswing of crushers who push grades further than ever. I'm all for more and more people climbing. More people = more awareness for the need to support our national parks and preserve our outdoor climbing areas, etc.
All the while I'll be maybe climbing half the grade that they are while cursing their strength/bodyweight ratios and wishing I started doing this 20 years ago.
Eh, there's enough entry pain that I'm not sure that it will get meaningfully bigger. Climbing is hard and frustrating, which a lot of people don't like dealing with. On top of that, there's already a bunch of genetic freaks out there (Ondra). Given that one of the primary gates to harder climbing is pain tolerance and continual practice, I think it will remain niche.
Consider what's happened to DJing the past decade or so.
-lots of new people
-with lots of flashy equipment
-and not a lot of practice
I expect you'll see lots of griping from old-timers, lots of complaining that people these days have it too easy with their newfangled ______, and increased crowds in popular climbing destinations. Also, those crowds might not be hip to etiquette that's currently expected in the scene. Lots of non-climbers will see the inevitable blockbuster climbing movie and probably gain some wildly inaccurate beliefs about what climbing is about.
This isn't a bad thing, mind, and it's unquestionably a good thing for eg climbers trying to make a living from sponsorships and competitions.
But Cliffhanger already came out!
You better not be talking smack about Cliffhanger!
So my gym for January did a special where if you climbed 3 times, did one yoga class and one abs class for the week, you would earn 5 percent off anything including shoes, up to 20 percent (4 weeks in January).That was ontop of 10 percent off we get as member discount.
So i climbed on these shoes the whole month cause i really wanted to save that 30%.
+4
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
edited February 2017
5 workout sessions / week would be totally doable if my climbing gym wasn't 25 minutes away.
So my gym for January did a special where if you climbed 3 times, did one yoga class and one abs class for the week, you would earn 5 percent off anything including shoes, up to 20 percent (4 weeks in January).That was ontop of 10 percent off we get as member discount.
So i climbed on these shoes the whole month cause i really wanted to save that 30%.
So my gym for January did a special where if you climbed 3 times, did one yoga class and one abs class for the week, you would earn 5 percent off anything including shoes, up to 20 percent (4 weeks in January).That was ontop of 10 percent off we get as member discount.
So i climbed on these shoes the whole month cause i really wanted to save that 30%.
Just get them resoled. Cheaper than new shoes.
Last time I tried that they said it was too late once there was a hole penetrating all the way through - can't tell for sure from that picture but I suspect probably the same there.
I've never had good luck with resoles, they dont feel the same to me but I'm also a shoe whore and its probably just a mental excuse to buy a new pair
Hotel door molding is too flimsy for a hang workout but it has a recessed wide airvent with about 3/4in worth of crimping. I've turned into that person
One move away from sending my gym project. spent 3 1/2 hours there tonight so I'll be sleeping in my compression shirt and praying that i'll be able to move tomorrow.
Thread, I fuckin' miss you. Well, I miss what you represent. It's been almost two months since I tore my shoulder. Most of the pain is gone, though there's still some popping and stiffness if I extend fully and rotate. Doc appointment tomorrow to hopefully get a clear date to climb again.
Meanwhile, the new rope and cams I got for Christmas are just... sitting there, staring at me. Taunting me.
First lead trip was a huge success! I sent my first outdoor lead (Flake, on Reimers) and it was an amazing feeling.
I really, really need to get out and climb outdoors more often. It's just so different than indoors and it always reminds me why I really love climbing.
Luckily already planning a march trip to Horseshoe.
+7
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
Thread, I fuckin' miss you. Well, I miss what you represent. It's been almost two months since I tore my shoulder. Most of the pain is gone, though there's still some popping and stiffness if I extend fully and rotate. Doc appointment tomorrow to hopefully get a clear date to climb again.
Meanwhile, the new rope and cams I got for Christmas are just... sitting there, staring at me. Taunting me.
I just bought my first shoes this weekend, but as of Sunday my elbow was still feeling tweaked from Thursday.
Want to climb tonight. Do not want to injure myself.
I just bought my first shoes this weekend, but as of Sunday my elbow was still feeling tweaked from Thursday.
Want to climb tonight. Do not want to injure myself.
Which part of your elbow? Joint itself, or do you have pain in the medial or lateral epicondyles? (Inside or outside of the elbow)? Any radiating pain or isolated? My elbows are old and gunky and if I don't take proper care of them I can't climb.
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
I just bought my first shoes this weekend, but as of Sunday my elbow was still feeling tweaked from Thursday.
Want to climb tonight. Do not want to injure myself.
Which part of your elbow? Joint itself, or do you have pain in the medial or lateral epicondyles? (Inside or outside of the elbow)? Any radiating pain or isolated? My elbows are old and gunky and if I don't take proper care of them I can't climb.
Hard to say, since it's not 'doing it' right now. What does proper care entail?
Also, never be afraid to go super-light on climbing if you're doing a monthly pass. I spent many a night doing light traverses at floor level in the rope room. Helps build grip and technique but doesn't stress the body too badly.
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
I do have a monthly pass, though
-the gym is a 25+ minute drive away, meaning that I want to make the most out of sessions
-it's never not crowded
If I wasn't going to climb, I'd probably go to the rec center 5 blocks from my apartment and do some recovery work in the weight room.
I just bought my first shoes this weekend, but as of Sunday my elbow was still feeling tweaked from Thursday.
Want to climb tonight. Do not want to injure myself.
Which part of your elbow? Joint itself, or do you have pain in the medial or lateral epicondyles? (Inside or outside of the elbow)? Any radiating pain or isolated? My elbows are old and gunky and if I don't take proper care of them I can't climb.
Hard to say, since it's not 'doing it' right now. What does proper care entail?
One thing to try would be doing pushups after you finish climbing each session. Improving your triceps strength can help prevent the onset of certain elbow issues (though I'm not sure about whether that resolves issues that are already in place).
I just bought my first shoes this weekend, but as of Sunday my elbow was still feeling tweaked from Thursday.
Want to climb tonight. Do not want to injure myself.
Which part of your elbow? Joint itself, or do you have pain in the medial or lateral epicondyles? (Inside or outside of the elbow)? Any radiating pain or isolated? My elbows are old and gunky and if I don't take proper care of them I can't climb.
Hard to say, since it's not 'doing it' right now. What does proper care entail?
One thing to try would be doing pushups after you finish climbing each session. Improving your triceps strength can help prevent the onset of certain elbow issues (though I'm not sure about whether that resolves issues that are already in place).
My group always does planks as part of a climbing workout day.
What is this I don't even.
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
Took my new shoes (Scarpa Origins) to the gym last night. They didn't seem to perform differently than the rental shoes (Evolv Titans), but I'm still happy to have a pair of my own so as to be able to take them outside this spring.
Did not send my pinchy purple project. Also, tried to dyno to the finish of a problem, whiffed the landing, fell into a dude who was on the next problem over, rolled my ankle, and landed on my back right in front of the cutie I'd been hoping to chat up.
Overall, really good session though. If anyone has suggested reading re: wide-grip pinchers similar to the holds shown below, I'd appreciate it.
Hopefully it won't be filled with couples on dates.
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Tynnanseldom correct, never unsureRegistered Userregular
With wide-grip pinchers, they'll often have a pretty sizeable lip to work with. Hip placement is important here: try to ensure you're pulling on the hold from as close to the wall as possible, with straight arms. Chicken-winging will get you into trouble, maybe not on that immediate move but definitely later in the problem as you spent too much energy in an inefficient position.
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
No lips on the pinchers on this problem, unfortunately - they're totally rounded.
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Tynnanseldom correct, never unsureRegistered Userregular
edited February 2017
In that photo, what direction is your next move and what feet are available for your right foot?
Unless that's just a photo you found to illustrate, and I'm being dumb.
Tynnan on
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TL DRNot at all confident in his reflexive opinions of thingsRegistered Userregular
In that photo, what direction is your next move and what feet are available for your right foot?
Unless that's just a photo you found to illustrate, and I'm being dumb.
It's a random GIS photo, unfortunately. If I don't send it Wednesday, I'll snap a pic. Though I'm out of town all weekend and it's not unlikely that it will be reset by Monday.
That move really looks like you gotta layback into it. I can't tell what your feet options are, but you should probably have your hip closer into the wall, generally speaking. Possibly not true in this instance. But if you're laying back, hip against the wall, with good feet on, you're not having to use those arms as much to hold in place.
Posts
Do you mean nuts and cams? How many grigris is it "normal" to carry, other than your main and maybe a backup?
The nice thing was that we used to have a really respected pro climb at our crappy gym and he was the nicest person ever, so that shut down the grognards.
Nothing makes you feel like you can't climb like watching someone campus the entire bouldering area roof in a lap while wearing a 50 lb weight vest.
I am now imagining one of those safety booklets included with gear such as cams showing that you shouldn't place a gri-gri as pro. In fact given all the images out there of random stuff used as pro I'm shocked that GIS doesn't have an image of a gri-gri wedged into a crack and clipped.
What you only carry one gri-gri? How do you protect those sick crack climbs then bro?
All the while I'll be maybe climbing half the grade that they are while cursing their strength/bodyweight ratios and wishing I started doing this 20 years ago.
Related, here's a good article on Black Diamond about preventing and treating elbow injury.
http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=esther-smith-elbow-pain-in-climbers&utm_source=instagram&utm_medium=experience&utm_campaign=hangrightpart2elbows
Also related, I think I may start looking into a good first pair of climbing shoes.
Eh, there's enough entry pain that I'm not sure that it will get meaningfully bigger. Climbing is hard and frustrating, which a lot of people don't like dealing with. On top of that, there's already a bunch of genetic freaks out there (Ondra). Given that one of the primary gates to harder climbing is pain tolerance and continual practice, I think it will remain niche.
Consider what's happened to DJing the past decade or so.
-lots of new people
-with lots of flashy equipment
-and not a lot of practice
I expect you'll see lots of griping from old-timers, lots of complaining that people these days have it too easy with their newfangled ______, and increased crowds in popular climbing destinations. Also, those crowds might not be hip to etiquette that's currently expected in the scene. Lots of non-climbers will see the inevitable blockbuster climbing movie and probably gain some wildly inaccurate beliefs about what climbing is about.
This isn't a bad thing, mind, and it's unquestionably a good thing for eg climbers trying to make a living from sponsorships and competitions.
But Cliffhanger already came out!
New, good shoes are the best. It'll feel like cheating. You may want to bring a spiderman shirt the first few times you wear them.
You better not be talking smack about Cliffhanger!
It's a documentary, isn't it?
So i climbed on these shoes the whole month cause i really wanted to save that 30%.
Just get them resoled. Cheaper than new shoes.
Last time I tried that they said it was too late once there was a hole penetrating all the way through - can't tell for sure from that picture but I suspect probably the same there.
Hotel door molding is too flimsy for a hang workout but it has a recessed wide airvent with about 3/4in worth of crimping. I've turned into that person
Going to be my first time attempting lead outdoors (been practicing at my gym) so I'm excited!
Meanwhile, the new rope and cams I got for Christmas are just... sitting there, staring at me. Taunting me.
I really, really need to get out and climb outdoors more often. It's just so different than indoors and it always reminds me why I really love climbing.
Luckily already planning a march trip to Horseshoe.
I just bought my first shoes this weekend, but as of Sunday my elbow was still feeling tweaked from Thursday.
Want to climb tonight. Do not want to injure myself.
Which part of your elbow? Joint itself, or do you have pain in the medial or lateral epicondyles? (Inside or outside of the elbow)? Any radiating pain or isolated? My elbows are old and gunky and if I don't take proper care of them I can't climb.
Hard to say, since it's not 'doing it' right now. What does proper care entail?
-the gym is a 25+ minute drive away, meaning that I want to make the most out of sessions
-it's never not crowded
If I wasn't going to climb, I'd probably go to the rec center 5 blocks from my apartment and do some recovery work in the weight room.
Chalk bag buddies! I love my climbing panda!
One thing to try would be doing pushups after you finish climbing each session. Improving your triceps strength can help prevent the onset of certain elbow issues (though I'm not sure about whether that resolves issues that are already in place).
My group always does planks as part of a climbing workout day.
Did not send my pinchy purple project. Also, tried to dyno to the finish of a problem, whiffed the landing, fell into a dude who was on the next problem over, rolled my ankle, and landed on my back right in front of the cutie I'd been hoping to chat up.
Overall, really good session though. If anyone has suggested reading re: wide-grip pinchers similar to the holds shown below, I'd appreciate it.
Hopefully it won't be filled with couples on dates.
Unless that's just a photo you found to illustrate, and I'm being dumb.
It's a random GIS photo, unfortunately. If I don't send it Wednesday, I'll snap a pic. Though I'm out of town all weekend and it's not unlikely that it will be reset by Monday.