I don't have pictures of the thing I worked on this weekend, but that's because that thing is 30+ skeletons.
I am tired of working on skeletons.
I feel you. It reminds me of the time I had to paint 1000 uruk-hai. Even just using three colors and an ink that was... that was just something. That was a month of my life I'll never have back...
What is this I don't even.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited March 2017
Also yesterday I assembled and (half-assed) painted this:
or a light yellowish brown basecoat with an even lighter drybrushed colour (basecoat mixed with white for example)?
My original thought was ulthuan grey (much easier to paint than a true white) with army painter soft tone (sepia).
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
GW Zandri Dust (which will be even easier to paint then Ulthuan Grey) then drybrush GW Tyrant Skull. GW also makes 2 texture paints that are that same base color if you're like me and loathe gluing and painting sand.
Ugh that Gundam is so nice. Wish I had the skill for that.
There is great potential in us all. How will you know you do not until you have tried?
(Seriously, I got mostly lucky in just how well the colours I picked worked out. Everything else about this is sanding things that need sanding, and be patient building it and letting things dry properly. If you can use an airbrush, you can do this.)
When I picked up the AoS starter, I also got the matching starter paint set. I have to admit I was disappointed. The paints are in smaller cups than in the past, and a majority of them were clumped up or dried out. The games-workshop manager where I got it replaced the dried ones and mixed extra paint and water into the chunky ones (as he kept opening new boxes with the same issues and no proper replacements).
It reminded me that citedal paints always tended to dry up quickly. I've gotten used to using reaper paints for bones minis - I like their range and price, and they don't tend to dry or need much water. Would they work well with warhammer minis, primer, and topcoat?
I may pick up some Vallejo paints if people can recommend them, though I've never used them. I'll stick to citadel washes though. As a novice, my main goal in painting minis is getting to the agrax earthshade stage. Always agrax. It'll all be okay after that.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
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CorporateLogoThe toilet knowshow I feelRegistered Userregular
How'd you do the panel lining on that robutt? Did you use a marker?
Do not have a cow, mortal.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
How'd you do the panel lining on that robutt? Did you use a marker?
@Dr_Keenbean shared these a fair while ago and I picked some up shortly thereafter.
If you're on a budget, try looking up "sludge wash" or similar on youtube for some tutorials on making similar products. I don't think it's an ideal product for Gunpla because of the shit-loads of depth they tend to have and how you remove it, but the effect is definitely still good.
Not this time. It's masked airbrushing, a slight all-over glaze of blue, then edging, distressed transfers and sponged-on brown that's then highlighted.
I'll probably do oil weathering too.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Posting in the correct thread.
I'm still slowly working on my army commander. Any suggestions on how to paint his holster?
Looks like he could use some warm accents, the holster seems as good a place for that as any - gold and red?
On the other hand Valhallans seem like a likely subject for a non-contrasting cold scheme, so more blue and silver will give you that.
Certainly nothing green or purple...
Oh shit, Dayspring's coming, gotta hide!
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
@Mayday's suggestion is spot on. Doombull brown (or VMC cavalry brown) is a nice, muted, dark red-brown that would look great on the holster then just pick the trim and the lions out in gold.
When I picked up the AoS starter, I also got the matching starter paint set. I have to admit I was disappointed. The paints are in smaller cups than in the past, and a majority of them were clumped up or dried out. The games-workshop manager where I got it replaced the dried ones and mixed extra paint and water into the chunky ones (as he kept opening new boxes with the same issues and no proper replacements).
It reminded me that citedal paints always tended to dry up quickly. I've gotten used to using reaper paints for bones minis - I like their range and price, and they don't tend to dry or need much water. Would they work well with warhammer minis, primer, and topcoat?
I may pick up some Vallejo paints if people can recommend them, though I've never used them. I'll stick to citadel washes though. As a novice, my main goal in painting minis is getting to the agrax earthshade stage. Always agrax. It'll all be okay after that.
I use reaper paints and I feel like my results are chalky, but I think thats just technique issue/not thining enough. I generally like their line of paints as well, I actually cherry pick which shades I like from different brands, and just have to remember how to get them all to match consistency as I use them. Don't limit yourself to one paint series if it doesnt do what you want.
The only actual issue with reaper paints is the tips getting clogged, but a wire to poke and clear it fixes it right up. I prefer dropper bottles because I feel like I have a lot more control on how I am mixing/portioning my paint.
I like warpainter metalics. Their bronze is so good that I basically started a ton of models for my pestilens army over so I could use it over silver. Their soft/medium tones are great washes too.
When I picked up the AoS starter, I also got the matching starter paint set. I have to admit I was disappointed. The paints are in smaller cups than in the past, and a majority of them were clumped up or dried out. The games-workshop manager where I got it replaced the dried ones and mixed extra paint and water into the chunky ones (as he kept opening new boxes with the same issues and no proper replacements).
It reminded me that citedal paints always tended to dry up quickly. I've gotten used to using reaper paints for bones minis - I like their range and price, and they don't tend to dry or need much water. Would they work well with warhammer minis, primer, and topcoat?
I may pick up some Vallejo paints if people can recommend them, though I've never used them. I'll stick to citadel washes though. As a novice, my main goal in painting minis is getting to the agrax earthshade stage. Always agrax. It'll all be okay after that.
I use reaper paints and I feel like my results are chalky, but I think thats just technique issue/not thining enough. I generally like their line of paints as well, I actually cherry pick which shades I like from different brands, and just have to remember how to get them all to match consistency as I use them. Don't limit yourself to one paint series if it doesnt do what you want.
The only actual issue with reaper paints is the tips getting clogged, but a wire to poke and clear it fixes it right up. I prefer dropper bottles because I feel like I have a lot more control on how I am mixing/portioning my paint.
I like warpainter metalics. Their bronze is so good that I basically started a ton of models for my pestilens army over so I could use it over silver. Their soft/medium tones are great washes too.
Interesting, I've found I rarely have to thin my reaper paints, as they end almost like a wash when I add water. It my be environmental or due to the minis - I first used them with bones minis.
Any recommended sealer/topcoat? I'm hesitant of sprays like the citadel purity seal due to reports of fogging and white splotches.
Posts
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I am tired of working on skeletons.
I feel you. It reminds me of the time I had to paint 1000 uruk-hai. Even just using three colors and an ink that was... that was just something. That was a month of my life I'll never have back...
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Define "pristine."
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Not done much painting recently but here's something from a few days ago
or a light yellowish brown basecoat with an even lighter drybrushed colour (basecoat mixed with white for example)?
Like the first or last.
My original thought was ulthuan grey (much easier to paint than a true white) with army painter soft tone (sepia).
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I'll figure something out.
EDIT and the launchers
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Panic avoided.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Otherwise, I took some pictures. They're decent, but the trick is Gundams are big and my backdrop is small, so I can only do so much here. :P
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
(Seriously, I got mostly lucky in just how well the colours I picked worked out. Everything else about this is sanding things that need sanding, and be patient building it and letting things dry properly. If you can use an airbrush, you can do this.)
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
My Nu is still in the box!
It reminded me that citedal paints always tended to dry up quickly. I've gotten used to using reaper paints for bones minis - I like their range and price, and they don't tend to dry or need much water. Would they work well with warhammer minis, primer, and topcoat?
I may pick up some Vallejo paints if people can recommend them, though I've never used them. I'll stick to citadel washes though. As a novice, my main goal in painting minis is getting to the agrax earthshade stage. Always agrax. It'll all be okay after that.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
@Dr_Keenbean shared these a fair while ago and I picked some up shortly thereafter.
If you're on a budget, try looking up "sludge wash" or similar on youtube for some tutorials on making similar products. I don't think it's an ideal product for Gunpla because of the shit-loads of depth they tend to have and how you remove it, but the effect is definitely still good.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Not this time. It's masked airbrushing, a slight all-over glaze of blue, then edging, distressed transfers and sponged-on brown that's then highlighted.
I'll probably do oil weathering too.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I'm still slowly working on my army commander. Any suggestions on how to paint his holster?
On the other hand Valhallans seem like a likely subject for a non-contrasting cold scheme, so more blue and silver will give you that.
Certainly nothing green or purple...
Oh shit, Dayspring's coming, gotta hide!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I use reaper paints and I feel like my results are chalky, but I think thats just technique issue/not thining enough. I generally like their line of paints as well, I actually cherry pick which shades I like from different brands, and just have to remember how to get them all to match consistency as I use them. Don't limit yourself to one paint series if it doesnt do what you want.
The only actual issue with reaper paints is the tips getting clogged, but a wire to poke and clear it fixes it right up. I prefer dropper bottles because I feel like I have a lot more control on how I am mixing/portioning my paint.
I like warpainter metalics. Their bronze is so good that I basically started a ton of models for my pestilens army over so I could use it over silver. Their soft/medium tones are great washes too.
Masking parts of the model so you can spray gradients on individual armour plates.
I got a shot of a diffirent lens, trying to work out how to do the staff. Not sure if same as the other metals, or a deeper gold
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Interesting, I've found I rarely have to thin my reaper paints, as they end almost like a wash when I add water. It my be environmental or due to the minis - I first used them with bones minis.
Any recommended sealer/topcoat? I'm hesitant of sprays like the citadel purity seal due to reports of fogging and white splotches.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight