Agreed. I think that's just about my favorite PC i've seen to date. How can something look so clean and understated, yet still just OOZE opulence? I'll tell you how... (insert Dolce & Gabana whiser) Crystalized...
Only one question I care about though. Will it run Crysis?
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
The lack of motherboard IO plate is bothering me though.......
I think he created a custom one out of the same clear acrylic the rest of the case is made of, you can see that the section around there is a separate piece.
JayzTwoCents does that kind of acrylic work. He cuts it to length, then uses a torch to soften the acrylic so he can bend it. And, yeah, you basically have to cut and bend new tubing any time you have anything go wrong.
For example, he had an issue where an orange dye he was using was starting to slowly turn brown; so he had to make multiple runs of rigid tubing while he was investigating the root cause.
I think for the physical tube cutting, he uses some sort of blade vice a Dremel. As in, I don't think you can use anything that is reciprocating or rotating if you want to truly clean cut. So something like a plumber's tubing cutter (made for copper).
Hey folks, started digging into pcpartpicker and my head exploded. And THEN a friend started talking about m2 drives. I have arooooound $2500 to spend on a new ground up build + monitor. Could go as high as 3k if the experience improvement is "worth" it, but wouldn't be ashamed if I got an awesome rig for 2k, if that makes sense. I've been putting off the build for about 3 years, because we have 4 kids and 15 pets, and every bonus check I've gotten goes to braces or vet bills or dance class or arglebarglebargle. But now I can't run directX 12 or play any of the new hotness and I'm sad.
My current main system is from a 6 year old build that I've managed to breath life into with ssd and vid card updates.
I'm capable of assembling everything myself, although this would be my first foray into the world of liquid cooling. On the upside, it seems they've made the simpler levels of liquid idiot proof, so that's nice.
That said, I wouldn't turn my nose up at shelling out a couple bucks for a reputable place that does builds to have someone who does this all day erry day do it, as they say.
Can I trouble you fine, knowledgeable people for some handholding?
Hey folks, started digging into pcpartpicker and my head exploded. And THEN a friend started talking about m2 drives. I have arooooound $2500 to spend on a new ground up build + monitor. Could go as high as 3k if the experience improvement is "worth" it, but wouldn't be ashamed if I got an awesome rig for 2k, if that makes sense. I've been putting off the build for about 3 years, because we have 4 kids and 15 pets, and every bonus check I've gotten goes to braces or vet bills or dance class or arglebarglebargle. But now I can't run directX 12 or play any of the new hotness and I'm sad.
My current main system is from a 6 year old build that I've managed to breath life into with ssd and vid card updates.
I'm capable of assembling everything myself, although this would be my first foray into the world of liquid cooling. On the upside, it seems they've made the simpler levels of liquid idiot proof, so that's nice.
That said, I wouldn't turn my nose up at shelling out a couple bucks for a reputable place that does builds to have someone who does this all day erry day do it, as they say.
Can I trouble you fine, knowledgeable people for some handholding?
Just to confirm, I assume those are American $, right? Because you should be able to get pretty beastly rig in at that price point.
Also, the big thing with M.2 drives is that instead of interfacing through 6Gb/s SATA (which modern SSDs can saturate), they connect to the PCI-E bus, which gives them a blistering 22Gb/s throughput.
Also, the big thing with M.2 drives is that instead of interfacing through 6Gb/s SATA (which modern SSDs can saturate), they connect to the PCI-E bus, which gives them a blistering 22Gb/s throughput.
just a correction. They *can* interface via PCI-e. Or they *can* interface with SATA. M.2 is literally just a connector type and some drives/boards use SATA and some use PCI-e lanes. When you're buying you need to make sure on both the board and drive you buy the same ones. a sata based M.2 drive will plug into a PCI-e m.2 slot just fine.... it'll just never work.
So I just got and installed my 1080 Ti, which I'm super excited about. However, two issues cropped up:
1. My 1440 display isn't showing any resolution options above 1080p (it was running at 1440p on my 980 Ti). Wondering if this is related to the fact that I'm now using a DVI to Displayport adapter? But it seems unlikely. 2. None of the devices plugged into my USB card are being recognized now.
Any thoughts?
Edit: #2 was the result of me jostling the USB card's power loose during card installation. Still dealing with #1 though.
The adapter has to not just output a DVI signal, but a dual link DVI signal to get the higher resolutions.
Now that I'm double checking the amazon listing that seems like it might be my issue. I can't seem to find one that supports 1440p, any suggestions?
Edit: NVIDIA also packed in an adapter with the 1080 Ti that seems to have the same issue :?
You probably figured this out already, but just go buy a DisplayPort cable. The adapter the 1080 Ti ships with is Single-Link, it can only do 1080p. For 1440p+ you either need a dual-link DVI to DP, or you can just use DP, which is really the recommended route if your monitor supports it (and I can't imagine a 1440p monitor without DisplayPort).
So. I have THIS at home and unused. I used to have two of those same monitors, and I used this for a while to connect to one of them. You can have it if you want to give it a shot. I can't guarantee it'll solve your problems, but I know it still works. I honestly don't remember why I stopped using it; I think I ended up buying different cables that worked for the monitor.
The other thing about M.2 PCIE drives is that the performance difference compared to SATA in real-world applications is pretty minimal. I don't suggest wasting the money there.
So I just got and installed my 1080 Ti, which I'm super excited about. However, two issues cropped up:
1. My 1440 display isn't showing any resolution options above 1080p (it was running at 1440p on my 980 Ti). Wondering if this is related to the fact that I'm now using a DVI to Displayport adapter? But it seems unlikely. 2. None of the devices plugged into my USB card are being recognized now.
Any thoughts?
Edit: #2 was the result of me jostling the USB card's power loose during card installation. Still dealing with #1 though.
The adapter has to not just output a DVI signal, but a dual link DVI signal to get the higher resolutions.
Now that I'm double checking the amazon listing that seems like it might be my issue. I can't seem to find one that supports 1440p, any suggestions?
Edit: NVIDIA also packed in an adapter with the 1080 Ti that seems to have the same issue :?
You probably figured this out already, but just go buy a DisplayPort cable. The adapter the 1080 Ti ships with is Single-Link, it can only do 1080p. For 1440p+ you either need a dual-link DVI to DP, or you can just use DP, which is really the recommended route if your monitor supports it (and I can't imagine a 1440p monitor without DisplayPort).
If anyone else has had to solve this problem with adapters I'd really appreciate a link to what they used.
So the cable I bought doesn't work. It doesn't do anything; no signal is detected. So, that sucks.
I guess I'm in the market for a new monitor, but all of the options for 1440p+ are like $300-$500 :-/
My S2716DG monitor is fantastic, 144Hz with GSync with a very good TN panel. Often goes on sale for $500. With a 1080TI I can't recommend anything less. You're wasting your money on a 60Hz 1440p screen with that GPU.
Tossed this together after doing a bit of reading and looking around.
Any thoughts?
Also, what is the conventional wisdom regarding 4k vs ultrawide?
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Dhalphirdon't you open that trapdooryou're a fool if you dareRegistered Userregular
You don't need 1000 watt power supply for that system. 750 would be fine. And it seems a shame to only have 500gb of SSD space in a system that powerful. Do you really need a 4Tb HDD?
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
@AngelHedgie definitely don't try and credit card method the stuff, it's too sludgy for that (at least my last two tubes have been). I use the press-and-spread technique. Put a thin dollop the size of a US dime in the center of the CPU's heat spreader. You do not need a ton of this stuff, just enough that after the cooler is seated and exerts pressure that you have a thin, mostly uniform, layer between the cooler and the lid. Use the pressure of your CPU cooler going on to spread it out. Try and get the cooler to go down as evemly as possible, so the material spreads evenly. Then as you tighten down the fasteners do them evenly as well and cross tighten. If any excess comes out wipe it up with a paper towel and light isopropyl alcohol and let dry before turning your system on.
Display port is the main jam now, correct? There's a decent KVM switch that I'm thinking would be nice to have for hooking up the work laptop.
Wish it would do dual monitors, but what can you do? https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817270047
PSN: jfrofl
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
HDMI and DisplayPort are the jam right now. If you want to be forward thinking USB-C is likely to become the all-in-wonder cable over the next few years. Since you can do things like run the display, transfer data and charge the laptop all from a single USB-C.
@AngelHedgie definitely don't try and credit card method the stuff, it's too sludgy for that (at least my last two tubes have been). I use the press-and-spread technique. Put a thin dollop the size of a US dime in the center of the CPU's heat spreader. You do not need a ton of this stuff, just enough that after the cooler is seated and exerts pressure that you have a thin, mostly uniform, layer between the cooler and the lid. Use the pressure of your CPU cooler going on to spread it out. Try and get the cooler to go down as evemly as possible, so the material spreads evenly. Then as you tighten down the fasteners do them evenly as well and cross tighten. If any excess comes out wipe it up with a paper towel and light isopropyl alcohol and let dry before turning your system on.
And do not lift the cooler up to see how it spread unless you're doing it knowing you're going to clean everything up and do it again.
As far as 'thin dollop the size of a US dime' goes, it's probably the equivalent of 'pea-sized' that lots of places talk about. Ultimately, a little goes a long way and too much is a hassle to end up dealing with. (If it squirts out the sides, definitely clean it up proper before running the system.)
There are plenty of videos available showing different methods for application and while some are 'better', the effort to get it exactly right isn't quite worth it unless you intend to build a new system every other day just to get better at it. The small dollop, even pressure method is largely regarded as the most efficient method. And once you start running the system, there is a period where the paste almost self-spreads.
HDMI and DisplayPort are the jam right now. If you want to be forward thinking USB-C is likely to become the all-in-wonder cable over the next few years. Since you can do things like run the display, transfer data and charge the laptop all from a single USB-C.
it actually wouldn't surprise me at all if we see the next generation of nVidia/AMD cards (think the 11xx and the RX 5xx series) cards come with at least a few sku's that have 1 or more USB-C ports for video. We're already starting to see monitors with USB-C support. I could see it being very useful in low profile cards.
The other thing about M.2 PCIE drives is that the performance difference compared to SATA in real-world applications is pretty minimal. I don't suggest wasting the money there.
So I just got and installed my 1080 Ti, which I'm super excited about. However, two issues cropped up:
1. My 1440 display isn't showing any resolution options above 1080p (it was running at 1440p on my 980 Ti). Wondering if this is related to the fact that I'm now using a DVI to Displayport adapter? But it seems unlikely. 2. None of the devices plugged into my USB card are being recognized now.
Any thoughts?
Edit: #2 was the result of me jostling the USB card's power loose during card installation. Still dealing with #1 though.
The adapter has to not just output a DVI signal, but a dual link DVI signal to get the higher resolutions.
Now that I'm double checking the amazon listing that seems like it might be my issue. I can't seem to find one that supports 1440p, any suggestions?
Edit: NVIDIA also packed in an adapter with the 1080 Ti that seems to have the same issue :?
You probably figured this out already, but just go buy a DisplayPort cable. The adapter the 1080 Ti ships with is Single-Link, it can only do 1080p. For 1440p+ you either need a dual-link DVI to DP, or you can just use DP, which is really the recommended route if your monitor supports it (and I can't imagine a 1440p monitor without DisplayPort).
If anyone else has had to solve this problem with adapters I'd really appreciate a link to what they used.
So the cable I bought doesn't work. It doesn't do anything; no signal is detected. So, that sucks.
I guess I'm in the market for a new monitor, but all of the options for 1440p+ are like $300-$500 :-/
My S2716DG monitor is fantastic, 144Hz with GSync with a very good TN panel. Often goes on sale for $500. With a 1080TI I can't recommend anything less. You're wasting your money on a 60Hz 1440p screen with that GPU.
Thanks for the recommendation, ended up ordering one of these.
@AngelHedgie definitely don't try and credit card method the stuff, it's too sludgy for that (at least my last two tubes have been). I use the press-and-spread technique. Put a thin dollop the size of a US dime in the center of the CPU's heat spreader. You do not need a ton of this stuff, just enough that after the cooler is seated and exerts pressure that you have a thin, mostly uniform, layer between the cooler and the lid. Use the pressure of your CPU cooler going on to spread it out. Try and get the cooler to go down as evemly as possible, so the material spreads evenly. Then as you tighten down the fasteners do them evenly as well and cross tighten. If any excess comes out wipe it up with a paper towel and light isopropyl alcohol and let dry before turning your system on.
And do not lift the cooler up to see how it spread unless you're doing it knowing you're going to clean everything up and do it again.
As far as 'thin dollop the size of a US dime' goes, it's probably the equivalent of 'pea-sized' that lots of places talk about. Ultimately, a little goes a long way and too much is a hassle to end up dealing with. (If it squirts out the sides, definitely clean it up proper before running the system.)
There are plenty of videos available showing different methods for application and while some are 'better', the effort to get it exactly right isn't quite worth it unless you intend to build a new system every other day just to get better at it. The small dollop, even pressure method is largely regarded as the most efficient method. And once you start running the system, there is a period where the paste almost self-spreads.
Look, the only reason why we use thermal paste is that a metal on metal contact has a lot of air gaps, no matter how smooth and shiny the surfaces appears.
As we all know, AIR IS A TERRIBLE HEAT CONDUCTOR! So all those itty bitty airgaps between the two surfaces does nothing but insulate the CPU and prevent heat transfer. This is why we use thermal paste. As we all know, liquids readily fill in a given volume. Paste also has an added bonus of (depending on what it's made of) being a pretty good heat conductor. But the conduction between metal to paste to metal is not as good as metal to metal (unless there's some kind of super paste that I'm not aware of). So the goal of thermal paste isn't to be a entire layer in between the two surfaces, instead it's to fill in those air gaps that acts like insulation.
So I've had people tell me memtest will almost always find bad RAM in the first pass. However I basically had to build a whole bench test system to finally find out the problem was with the RAM.
We did 4 passes on those bastard sticks IIRC.
Tossed this together after doing a bit of reading and looking around.
Any thoughts?
Also, what is the conventional wisdom regarding 4k vs ultrawide?
If you go 4K you'll have to spend a ton of money on both a GPU capable of that level of performance and a 4K monitor.
If you go Ultrawide you'll have to buy a new monitor and will have issues with a few games but you will never want to go back to a standard display again. Also, 2560x1080 or 3440x1440 are a lower performance hit so your framerates will be higher.
Unless you have money to burn (and I mean burn) I'd wait another GPU generation before going 4k. A 1080ti like the one in that list is certainly the GPU you're looking for if you want to go 4k right now though.
Posts
Agreed. I think that's just about my favorite PC i've seen to date. How can something look so clean and understated, yet still just OOZE opulence? I'll tell you how... (insert Dolce & Gabana whiser) Crystalized...
Only one question I care about though. Will it run Crysis?
CrystaliZed
Custom builds like that aren't really intended to be upgraded.
I spent far too much time trying to figure out where he hid the SSD until I realized he used a M2 drive.
― John Quincy Adams
I think he created a custom one out of the same clear acrylic the rest of the case is made of, you can see that the section around there is a separate piece.
I've always wondered that
like I've gotten acrylic at like home depot and cut it with dremels and shit but it never looks anywhere near that clean
For example, he had an issue where an orange dye he was using was starting to slowly turn brown; so he had to make multiple runs of rigid tubing while he was investigating the root cause.
I think for the physical tube cutting, he uses some sort of blade vice a Dremel. As in, I don't think you can use anything that is reciprocating or rotating if you want to truly clean cut. So something like a plumber's tubing cutter (made for copper).
My current main system is from a 6 year old build that I've managed to breath life into with ssd and vid card updates.
I'm capable of assembling everything myself, although this would be my first foray into the world of liquid cooling. On the upside, it seems they've made the simpler levels of liquid idiot proof, so that's nice.
That said, I wouldn't turn my nose up at shelling out a couple bucks for a reputable place that does builds to have someone who does this all day erry day do it, as they say.
Can I trouble you fine, knowledgeable people for some handholding?
Just to confirm, I assume those are American $, right? Because you should be able to get pretty beastly rig in at that price point.
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
Yep, that's $US
Since I'm probably not going to be doing this again for another 4 or 5 years, I'm hoping to put together something I get get some real miles on.
So this here is the computer I'm building right now (with a few differences, such as a larger SSD). Price is right around $2k.
just a correction. They *can* interface via PCI-e. Or they *can* interface with SATA. M.2 is literally just a connector type and some drives/boards use SATA and some use PCI-e lanes. When you're buying you need to make sure on both the board and drive you buy the same ones. a sata based M.2 drive will plug into a PCI-e m.2 slot just fine.... it'll just never work.
So the cable I bought doesn't work. It doesn't do anything; no signal is detected. So, that sucks.
I guess I'm in the market for a new monitor, but all of the options for 1440p+ are like $300-$500 :-/
My S2716DG monitor is fantastic, 144Hz with GSync with a very good TN panel. Often goes on sale for $500. With a 1080TI I can't recommend anything less. You're wasting your money on a 60Hz 1440p screen with that GPU.
Any thoughts?
Also, what is the conventional wisdom regarding 4k vs ultrawide?
@AngelHedgie definitely don't try and credit card method the stuff, it's too sludgy for that (at least my last two tubes have been). I use the press-and-spread technique. Put a thin dollop the size of a US dime in the center of the CPU's heat spreader. You do not need a ton of this stuff, just enough that after the cooler is seated and exerts pressure that you have a thin, mostly uniform, layer between the cooler and the lid. Use the pressure of your CPU cooler going on to spread it out. Try and get the cooler to go down as evemly as possible, so the material spreads evenly. Then as you tighten down the fasteners do them evenly as well and cross tighten. If any excess comes out wipe it up with a paper towel and light isopropyl alcohol and let dry before turning your system on.
Wish it would do dual monitors, but what can you do?
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817270047
And do not lift the cooler up to see how it spread unless you're doing it knowing you're going to clean everything up and do it again.
As far as 'thin dollop the size of a US dime' goes, it's probably the equivalent of 'pea-sized' that lots of places talk about. Ultimately, a little goes a long way and too much is a hassle to end up dealing with. (If it squirts out the sides, definitely clean it up proper before running the system.)
There are plenty of videos available showing different methods for application and while some are 'better', the effort to get it exactly right isn't quite worth it unless you intend to build a new system every other day just to get better at it. The small dollop, even pressure method is largely regarded as the most efficient method. And once you start running the system, there is a period where the paste almost self-spreads.
it actually wouldn't surprise me at all if we see the next generation of nVidia/AMD cards (think the 11xx and the RX 5xx series) cards come with at least a few sku's that have 1 or more USB-C ports for video. We're already starting to see monitors with USB-C support. I could see it being very useful in low profile cards.
Thanks for the recommendation, ended up ordering one of these.
Look, the only reason why we use thermal paste is that a metal on metal contact has a lot of air gaps, no matter how smooth and shiny the surfaces appears.
As we all know, AIR IS A TERRIBLE HEAT CONDUCTOR! So all those itty bitty airgaps between the two surfaces does nothing but insulate the CPU and prevent heat transfer. This is why we use thermal paste. As we all know, liquids readily fill in a given volume. Paste also has an added bonus of (depending on what it's made of) being a pretty good heat conductor. But the conduction between metal to paste to metal is not as good as metal to metal (unless there's some kind of super paste that I'm not aware of). So the goal of thermal paste isn't to be a entire layer in between the two surfaces, instead it's to fill in those air gaps that acts like insulation.
We did 4 passes on those bastard sticks IIRC.
Glad you worked it out!
I'm at 8GB, and super want to move to 16, but I really don't want to spend a bunch of money on old-model DDR3 RAM.
However, if I move to DDR4 then I need a new motherboard, since I'm on a Z97, and that means a new CPU too, since I'm on a 4770K.
Decisions.
If you go 4K you'll have to spend a ton of money on both a GPU capable of that level of performance and a 4K monitor.
If you go Ultrawide you'll have to buy a new monitor and will have issues with a few games but you will never want to go back to a standard display again. Also, 2560x1080 or 3440x1440 are a lower performance hit so your framerates will be higher.
Unless you have money to burn (and I mean burn) I'd wait another GPU generation before going 4k. A 1080ti like the one in that list is certainly the GPU you're looking for if you want to go 4k right now though.