To go with Echo's Rubrics, here they are a few thousand years earlier, with their big bro.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
The hardest part is thinning the Tamiya Clear Red enough that'll go through the airbrush, but not enough it turns into red water.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
Protip: Tamiya makes gold and clear red rattle cans. The results are spectacular.
Really? I must look into this.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
It's a slightly colder gold than Retributor Armor. I painted up test models a while ago with both and the difference was negligible. Sadly I can't find any pictures.
I don't have problems airbrushing gold, but the clear red is tempting. Describing them as "synthetic lacquer" concerns me, mostly because I don't actually know much about paints.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
Tamiya clear red has a few quibbles when it comes to other paints but it's relatively stable. Just make sure to apply it over completely dry coats of gold. Don't apply any washes or tints first, as it can eat through them. Airbrush order is primer - gold - clear red and then you can do stuff like recess shading on the red afterwards.
I don't mind the matted look I get with Reikland Fleshshade over the gold primer, but for the next unit I think I'll try the gloss version of the wash.
Tamiya clear red has a few quibbles when it comes to other paints but it's relatively stable. Just make sure to apply it over completely dry coats of gold. Don't apply any washes or tints first, as it can eat through them. Airbrush order is primer - gold - clear red and then you can do stuff like recess shading on the red afterwards.
Given that's the usual routine, I might pick up a can and try it out. Would save me a lot of frustration.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
The clear red's glossiness lends itself well to immediately applying an oil wash after it has cured.
I remember seeing some company that made molds that you could press a green-stuff coated base into to get some cool basing patterns. Anyone know what I'm talking about and have a link?
I backed Happy Seppuku's last kickstarter so I have a bunch of those molds. They work great but it takes a bit of practice to get good results. Have no experience with Green Stuff World.
Speaking of tamiya clears over metals, I picked up the nurgle part of the new Warhammer starter set and I wanna try something similar for it. I'm thinking a dark bronze or brass with very thin coats of clear yellow and green over it. With bright red/yellow/green grossness for all the fleshy bits to pop from the subdued armor.
*edit* Nevermind scratch all that, stained yellow/brown porcelain scheme instead. An army of walking dirty toilet bowls. Gets away from the ubiquitous green scheme for plague marines.
Badablack on
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Painting progress has been slow lately. I'm just finishing up my Nu-'Nids test model, then it's one of the new Death Guard - I'm thinking the Lords of Contagion scheme with a vertical green stripe somewhere - but then its back to the 'nids.
I want to see if the new scheme works for a Heirodule.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I used to live near a place where I could just fetch a variety of rock sizes and shapes for basing Now I think I need to make some, since I don't know of a good place to pick them up outside, and I'm not paying $30 for rock basing tubs. I'm figuring there's probably a kit of something like plaster I could cast and hit with a hammer to make rock shards. Anyone have any recommendations?
What is this I don't even.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I think the go-to is slate. You can get slate for gardening at most home improvement stores.
That's good. I was looking at casting plaster in tubs and hitting it with a hammer, but there's like fifty different types of plaster and then I'd have to sand it and....
@Dr_Keenbean went right where I was thinking about going.
How hard is it to paint MDF terrain to look... not garbage? All that flat, plain texture looks like it'll be tough to make anything particularly interesting out of it. I'm thinking I'll need to glue a bunch of bitz on to pieces to make it more 3D.
What is this I don't even.
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admanbunionize your workplaceSeattle, WARegistered Userregular
@Dr_Keenbean went right where I was thinking about going.
How hard is it to paint MDF terrain to look... not garbage? All that flat, plain texture looks like it'll be tough to make anything particularly interesting out of it. I'm thinking I'll need to glue a bunch of bitz on to pieces to make it more 3D.
You could always take some some textured spray paint to them, then a dark silver spray, then take a big brush and do some quick drybrushing with dark/light orange for corroded panels.
Also what some people do is print out tiny posters to paste all over their future walls with propaganda and whatnot. Lots of ways to break up flat walls.
speaking of airbrushes, I think it is time for me to take my painting of plastic mans to the next level and get in on the airbrush action.
Anyone have a recommendation for where to buy an airbrush/compressor in Australia (QLD)? the sites I looked at so far all look slightly or not so slightly dodgy
speaking of airbrushes, I think it is time for me to take my painting of plastic mans to the next level and get in on the airbrush action.
Anyone have a recommendation for where to buy an airbrush/compressor in Australia (QLD)? the sites I looked at so far all look slightly or not so slightly dodgy
I'm in Melbourne.
I got my actual Badger Patriot airbrush from Amazon (as well as the hoses and couplers for a Badger), and I bought one of these compressors from Crazysales (which definitely sounds dodgy but they did send me a compressor, so it worked out fine.) All the other stuff (spray out pot, cleaning brushes, etc.) I just bought off eBay.
I nearly trashed my Brass Arachnid due to frustration due to the assembly and it overhanging its base. Still is nothing compared to some Warmachine models (Deathjack, Scaverous)
The newer Malifaux models like Jorugumo seem better in this regard.
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imgur.com is a very good image host. Even has some built in editing tools.
I love the look of those solid gold marines, though. May have to buy a can of that stuff just for some terrain.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Really? I must look into this.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I have to borrow a decent camera sometime.
Given that's the usual routine, I might pick up a can and try it out. Would save me a lot of frustration.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I backed Happy Seppuku's last kickstarter so I have a bunch of those molds. They work great but it takes a bit of practice to get good results. Have no experience with Green Stuff World.
*edit* Nevermind scratch all that, stained yellow/brown porcelain scheme instead. An army of walking dirty toilet bowls. Gets away from the ubiquitous green scheme for plague marines.
How'd you make those guns?
I want to see if the new scheme works for a Heirodule.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
How hard is it to paint MDF terrain to look... not garbage? All that flat, plain texture looks like it'll be tough to make anything particularly interesting out of it. I'm thinking I'll need to glue a bunch of bitz on to pieces to make it more 3D.
Here's some photos of a local's stuff, which is airbrushed very simply. It doesn't really take that much to look decent.
Also what some people do is print out tiny posters to paste all over their future walls with propaganda and whatnot. Lots of ways to break up flat walls.
Anyone have a recommendation for where to buy an airbrush/compressor in Australia (QLD)? the sites I looked at so far all look slightly or not so slightly dodgy
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
I'm in Melbourne.
I got my actual Badger Patriot airbrush from Amazon (as well as the hoses and couplers for a Badger), and I bought one of these compressors from Crazysales (which definitely sounds dodgy but they did send me a compressor, so it worked out fine.) All the other stuff (spray out pot, cleaning brushes, etc.) I just bought off eBay.
edit: 1 SEK = 0.11 USD at the moment.
(Not my paintwork, GIS image)
Not even a vague attempt to centre the weight, just entirely all hanging off the edge to one side.
The newer Malifaux models like Jorugumo seem better in this regard.