Is there a service that will assemble models and clean up the mold lines/etc? I have a bunch of large resin models I want to paint, but would like them to be put together by someone who's experienced. I already managed to very carefully snap a staff in half and then drill a hole to pin it back together in a spot other than the center. I don't want them based or painted, I enjoy doing that part.
And it's only because these models aren't cheap. The regular plastic mans I have no problem messing with.
What's the best way to get the crap out of an airbrush nozzle? I just fucked mine trying to clean it.
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Which part of the nozzle, man? The little metal funnel, or the outer chunk that houses it?
For the former, my go-to for tough colours has been to soak it in isopropanol alcohol for a few minutes (can be longer if needed) and then work it out with a toothpick (which can also be dipped) slowly pushing it through the tip. Wash it out with water when you think you've made progress, blow it out, check the inside as best you can with a small flashlight and see where it's still stuck in there. Rinse and repeat until you're satisfied with the result.
I accidentally destroyed my Iwata HP-CS nozzle by cleaning it too thoroughly with a piper cleaner. Bent the tip of the nozzle outward without even knowing, I found out because next time I went to use the airbrush it sprayed paint everywhere with little resistance.
I found this video to be a good example of a deep clean
Which part of the nozzle, man? The little metal funnel, or the outer chunk that houses it?
For the former, my go-to for tough colours has been to soak it in isopropanol alcohol for a few minutes (can be longer if needed) and then work it out with a toothpick (which can also be dipped) slowly pushing it through the tip. Wash it out with water when you think you've made progress, blow it out, check the inside as best you can with a small flashlight and see where it's still stuck in there. Rinse and repeat until you're satisfied with the result.
Yup that funnel bit.
Sounds similar to what I was doing. I've managed to deform the end of it ever so slightly. Was being pretty vigorous in my attempts to clean out some dried up surface primer. Exactly like Nisi described. Lesson learned.
J on
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Which part of the nozzle, man? The little metal funnel, or the outer chunk that houses it?
For the former, my go-to for tough colours has been to soak it in isopropanol alcohol for a few minutes (can be longer if needed) and then work it out with a toothpick (which can also be dipped) slowly pushing it through the tip. Wash it out with water when you think you've made progress, blow it out, check the inside as best you can with a small flashlight and see where it's still stuck in there. Rinse and repeat until you're satisfied with the result.
Yup that funnel bit.
Sounds similar to what I was doing. I've managed to deform the end of it ever so slightly. Was being pretty vigorous in my attempts to clean out some dried up surface primer. Exactly like Nisi described. Lesson learned.
Womp.
I think I still have the spare one my 105 came with. It's the needle I bent, but whatever, it's still worked fine so I haven't rushed to replace it. Put that on the list of "nice things to have some day when I have a steady job again." :P
I've not had half the time to paint that I'd intended.
And only 30% of that is due to whisky.
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
I often think of getting an airbrush, then I go to my brothers house and he tells me he spent 4 hours painting with his airbrush, 3 hours of which was stripping and cleaning.
Mades a Chaos lord for my Word Bearers with some parts I had lying around.
Was originally a model I made a while back, but priming issues made me strip it and that messed up some of the plastic bits I used so it was rebuilt. Primer is still a little fuzzy but I should be able to salvage it.
He actually means Disney now since they own Lucasfilm LTD (aka LFL).
Edit: Sorry if you were being sarcastic. >_< My mind is really not working properly this morning. I just looked up LFL on google and saw what you meant.
Ohyeah, that makes way more sense, I've just never heard lucasfilm as LFL. I was totally ripping off that adorable robot (except the eyes. they're too much).
Ohyeah, that makes way more sense, I've just never heard lucasfilm as LFL. I was totally ripping off that adorable robot (except the eyes. they're too much).
LFL is Lucasfilm Licensing, which still exists, I think, even under the Disney brand. Their initials are on basically everything Star Wars.
Ohyeah, that makes way more sense, I've just never heard lucasfilm as LFL. I was totally ripping off that adorable robot (except the eyes. they're too much).
LFL is Lucasfilm Licensing, which still exists, I think, even under the Disney brand. Their initials are on basically everything Star Wars.
Ah ok, I've heard of the other one but forgot Licensing. I should remember since the X-wing thread...
I often think of getting an airbrush, then I go to my brothers house and he tells me he spent 4 hours painting with his airbrush, 3 hours of which was stripping and cleaning.
I think your brother is doing something wrong then. All I do to keep my airbrushes clean is to take about 10 minutes at the end of a painting session to thoroughly clean out the paint cup in the sink, then blast and backflush (except the Sotar 20/20) water through until it sprays clear. Then I run a little bit of Iwata airbrush cleaner through and leave the cup about half full with the lid on.
Before I paint, I run a little airbrush cleaner through to make sure it's working. If it's not, 99% of the time it's because of built up paint on the needle stem in the cup, which is a quick breakdown and scrub to fix. The Iwata Eclipse I have is much more prone to this than the Sotar.
In 5 years, I've done a deep cleaning on my Iwata once. Which was just soaking it in simple green for a day, disassembled. Then thoroughly scrubbing everything and rebuilding over about 30 minutes.
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
edited July 2017
Yeah, I accidentally got some un-thinned paint in my cheapest gravity brush the other day and had to do a full teardown to get it working properly again but I didn't do that until I used the paint in the cup because I'm cheap like that, and if it toook half an hour to do it's because I was feeling lazy.
If you don't screw up a minute or so between colours plus five to ten at the end of a session is plenty.
So lately I've been getting tired of using hobby primer like citadel, as it costs so much and can be sensitive to weather. I've heard that non-hobby primers from companies like krylon may be more forgiving and produce much better results. And the price is of course great. Does anyone use non-hobby brands here? Any suggestions on a specific primer, or is there anything I should look for? I'm worried about getting something that may damage the plastic or not work with model paints.
I think I use Krylon Matte Black. I just buy a huge can of it for not too much. I spray outside and the only issues I've had with it is when I try to spray when it's too humid and the paint gets a little weird.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
So lately I've been getting tired of using hobby primer like citadel, as it costs so much and can be sensitive to weather. I've heard that non-hobby primers from companies like krylon may be more forgiving and produce much better results. And the price is of course great. Does anyone use non-hobby brands here? Any suggestions on a specific primer, or is there anything I should look for? I'm worried about getting something that may damage the plastic or not work with model paints.
Musing some post apocalyptic stuff as some guys at the club are trying out Scrappers, a post-apoc skirmish campaign system from the Frostgrave publisher.
I was wondering if AoS Iron Jaw Brutes would work as super mutant type guys if done in a human skin tone. I had assumed somebody out there must have had the idea of doing pink skin orks before, but a quick google seemed to fail me. Many rainbow colours but no human skin tone. Anyone seen anything?
Thank you @Koreg, @BreakfastPM , and @TheColonel ! I don't have an airbrush, so I'll check out the krylon and duplicolor. Some people who like p3 primer are convinced it's actually a rebranded version of duplicolor.
And Echo, I would like to second that those dice do look delicious. They would be devoured were they on the table I was playing on.
Thank you @Koreg, @BreakfastPM , and @TheColonel ! I don't have an airbrush, so I'll check out the krylon and duplicolor. Some people who like p3 primer are convinced it's actually a rebranded version of duplicolor.
And Echo, I would like to second that those dice do look delicious. They would be devoured were they on the table I was playing on.
If you try the Duplicolor make sure it says "sandable" on it. I accidentally got a different kind once and it was hot garbage.
Yeah, that's what worries me the most about brands not marketed for miniatures.
Honestly I think primer is my biggest hurdle, just thinking about which one to get and how to use it is like a brick wall. When I painted bones, I was flying through them since I didn't prime them.
And then there's the worry about topcoat/sealor. Though it's easier there since most just go with testors dullcote or krylon matte topcoat.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
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-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
If I need spray primer I just go with Army Painter. It's expensive but I like the product and know the difficulties with the product.
I was actually thinking of Army Painter due to the colors - it should make up for the extra price due to less money and time spent on the basecoat. However I had heard some people have issues with them, but from what I understand it may be a result of their primers requiring a different method of application.
I was actually thinking of Army Painter due to the colors - it should make up for the extra price due to less money and time spent on the basecoat. However I had heard some people have issues with them, but from what I understand it may be a result of their primers requiring a different method of application.
Army painter behaves quite differently than GW primer, that's true. Distance from the Model was the biggest change I had to figure out.
Alright gang. I need recommendations for some colors. Also painting tips for same.
I need to paint a good bit of leather. Browns and off brown
Educate me?
I'm still learning, but one of the initial challenges I had was leather. The drab, earthy tones made it hard for me to do shading or highlights with a limited paint set and knowledge. However, once I did a wash with agrax earthshade, the leather really started to pop. I feel leather and other brown pieces are more forgiving with excess washes, and naturally benefit from shades/washes, especially if you have to do a lot of leather.
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I bet you could if you tried hard enough,
I feel like that's actually precisely the difference he is getting at. :P
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
And it's only because these models aren't cheap. The regular plastic mans I have no problem messing with.
For the former, my go-to for tough colours has been to soak it in isopropanol alcohol for a few minutes (can be longer if needed) and then work it out with a toothpick (which can also be dipped) slowly pushing it through the tip. Wash it out with water when you think you've made progress, blow it out, check the inside as best you can with a small flashlight and see where it's still stuck in there. Rinse and repeat until you're satisfied with the result.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I found this video to be a good example of a deep clean
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22GBppK_Lmo&list=PLeWvILBBQUBjet2MYJb7avdOaGz_sAib6&index=16
Yup that funnel bit.
Sounds similar to what I was doing. I've managed to deform the end of it ever so slightly. Was being pretty vigorous in my attempts to clean out some dried up surface primer. Exactly like Nisi described. Lesson learned.
Womp.
I think I still have the spare one my 105 came with. It's the needle I bent, but whatever, it's still worked fine so I haven't rushed to replace it. Put that on the list of "nice things to have some day when I have a steady job again." :P
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
And only 30% of that is due to whisky.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Was originally a model I made a while back, but priming issues made me strip it and that messed up some of the plastic bits I used so it was rebuilt. Primer is still a little fuzzy but I should be able to salvage it.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
This is what @Elvenshae was referencing.
http://www.starwars.com/databank/dwarf-spider-droid
He actually means Disney now since they own Lucasfilm LTD (aka LFL).
Edit: Sorry if you were being sarcastic. >_< My mind is really not working properly this morning. I just looked up LFL on google and saw what you meant.
Steam: betsuni7
LFL is Lucasfilm Licensing, which still exists, I think, even under the Disney brand. Their initials are on basically everything Star Wars.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Ah ok, I've heard of the other one but forgot Licensing. I should remember since the X-wing thread...
Steam: betsuni7
I think your brother is doing something wrong then. All I do to keep my airbrushes clean is to take about 10 minutes at the end of a painting session to thoroughly clean out the paint cup in the sink, then blast and backflush (except the Sotar 20/20) water through until it sprays clear. Then I run a little bit of Iwata airbrush cleaner through and leave the cup about half full with the lid on.
Before I paint, I run a little airbrush cleaner through to make sure it's working. If it's not, 99% of the time it's because of built up paint on the needle stem in the cup, which is a quick breakdown and scrub to fix. The Iwata Eclipse I have is much more prone to this than the Sotar.
In 5 years, I've done a deep cleaning on my Iwata once. Which was just soaking it in simple green for a day, disassembled. Then thoroughly scrubbing everything and rebuilding over about 30 minutes.
If you don't screw up a minute or so between colours plus five to ten at the end of a session is plenty.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
It's a battle to not rush it.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
Duplicolor Sandable Primer is what I've always used and never had any problems with it.
I was wondering if AoS Iron Jaw Brutes would work as super mutant type guys if done in a human skin tone. I had assumed somebody out there must have had the idea of doing pink skin orks before, but a quick google seemed to fail me. Many rainbow colours but no human skin tone. Anyone seen anything?
And Echo, I would like to second that those dice do look delicious. They would be devoured were they on the table I was playing on.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
If you try the Duplicolor make sure it says "sandable" on it. I accidentally got a different kind once and it was hot garbage.
Honestly I think primer is my biggest hurdle, just thinking about which one to get and how to use it is like a brick wall. When I painted bones, I was flying through them since I didn't prime them.
And then there's the worry about topcoat/sealor. Though it's easier there since most just go with testors dullcote or krylon matte topcoat.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
I need to paint a good bit of leather. Browns and off brown
Educate me?
Steam - Talon Valdez :Blizz - Talonious#1860 : Xbox Live & LoL - Talonious Monk @TaloniousMonk Hail Satan
Army painter behaves quite differently than GW primer, that's true. Distance from the Model was the biggest change I had to figure out.
I'm still learning, but one of the initial challenges I had was leather. The drab, earthy tones made it hard for me to do shading or highlights with a limited paint set and knowledge. However, once I did a wash with agrax earthshade, the leather really started to pop. I feel leather and other brown pieces are more forgiving with excess washes, and naturally benefit from shades/washes, especially if you have to do a lot of leather.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight