So I finished most of my Ghazkull Thraka today. I have been working on the models I had to repair from shipping and stuff. I still need my bone paints though for the skill.
From above:
Front:
Back:
Might do more checkers on him than the jaw but so far I like just that and the rest mostly metal unless it is ork or wires.
Mazzyx on
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TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
It's important not to overdo it but a little purple or orange, depending on what shade you're going for, can make really nice looking leather bits.
I've got tackle boxes for storing bitz that are unglued. I've got mini cases for assembled/painted stuff. But does anyone have any clever storage solutions for partially assembled projects? Currently basically lining shoeboxes with papertowels.
Yeah. I use those for bits, but what I've got now, for instance, is a bunch of terminators almost completely assembled, but with their arms off as they wait for painting.
I unfortunately don't have space to build a workbench, wish I did, would make painting so much easier. Currently have my paints and supplies in a Tupperware set of drawers and my airbrush set up in a large bin. Setup and breakdown takes me about 15 minutes and is kind of annoying.
However, the idea was that only a project or two would be on it. What really happens is the active project ends up on it, and then every other miniature in the house ends up behind it on the table. Including dozens of half assembled terminators, bikes, etc.
However, the idea was that only a project or two would be on it. What really happens is the active project ends up on it, and then every other miniature in the house ends up behind it on the table. Including dozens of half assembled terminators, bikes, etc.
So as I've been building up my paint collection, I was able to get a discount on the Army Painter set of 50 paints and washes. I really like the colors, but some of them seem very difficult to shake up to get the seperated components remixed.
I have had this issue with other paints, but none have required this much shaking. Can anyone speak to their experience with these paints? Are they of a decent quality compared to MSP and citadel? I do not think they are old, as it is the 2017 version of the set, and the paints aren't dried by any means.
Get a box of BB's or other small metal item and put a couple in the paint bottles (after cleaning off any dirt/grease of course). They will help agitate and mix the paint a lot more easily.
Get a box of BB's or other small metal item and put a couple in the paint bottles (after cleaning off any dirt/grease of course). They will help agitate and mix the paint a lot more easily.
Oh cool, those glass agitators might be nice. I wonder how much it would be to get a few to the US.
I've been reading more about Army Painter and it seems some people give up on them due to the need to shake the paint more than usual, while those that stick to them really like them once they get used to it. The same goes for the primer, the company's guide is to do a close, continual back and forth spray for two or three passes, but many people try to use them like regular primer.
Army Painter seems to create their products a bit differently, and that requires people to use them differently. Even the company is aware of it, all of their sprays and paints tell you in huge letters to follow the instructions exactly or to shake well, which I haven't seen before on other products, and it actually gives me confidence in them as they are willing be open about their stuff.
Has anyone worked with the lightweight plaster stuff? I've cast a bunch of rock gubbins for using on projects and I'm trying to seal the plaster properly since it's so lightweight and porous. I tried painting a few with a mix of water and PVA glue, which has sort of worked, but I'm wondering if there's anything better to try.
I am slowly making progress on all my new Primaris Marines. I decided for the Reivers that despite being Ultramarines, an all blue armor didn't make sense / blended in too much. So I think I'm going with a Dark purple base, and just doing the large shoulder pad blue.
Blahhhhh I've been making slowwww progress on getting the other 9 Skitarii rats painted. This represents two days of work, basecoating everyone in Dryad Bark, then basing the gun in Rhinox hide, then basing the skin in Bugman's glow, then basing the reds in Mephiston and then a thin layer of Evil Sunz, and finally getting Leadbelcher on the metals of two of the models.
Soon, soon I can start washing and detailing these guys...
Oh cool, those glass agitators might be nice. I wonder how much it would be to get a few to the US.
They are small glass beads, I am 100% certain you don't need to import them! You'll be able to get them for pocket change on EBay.
I'll be honest I was more enticed by the paints because they look delicious in those minimalist label bottles.
But I started testing the paints and after a good shake, they seem really nice. The gold is better than I thought, as it layers more easily over black than MSP gold.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Started following these guys literally Monday because I wanted in on the Thrall sculpt when it came along. Of course today they're opening it for preorders to ship in August. I was kinda hoping it would take longer so I could actually have money for something like this. <_<
Someone else want to pick this up and paint it real nice on my behalf? https://etsy.com/ca/listing/544958317/28mm-wargaming-and-collectible-miniature?ref=shop_home_active_1
I feel like if GW released a small, motorized paint pot shaker (basically a miniaturized version of what you see in traditional hardware stores) and put a raised aquila emblem on the front of it or something they could probably price it at $99 and watch their quarterly profits skyrocket.
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
It'd also be nice if their paints were produced consistently. I've had a pot of black that was just straight DOA and a white that can best be described as "chunky".
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
It'd also be nice if their paints were produced consistently. I've had a pot of black that was just straight DOA and a white that can best be described as "chunky".
I've never gotten a bad paint pot from a GW store, and the local GW store will also swap your paints if you get a crummy one.
The comic book store that sells paints and rotates stock a lot slower, though, has had some stinkers.
Also, I meant to ask at the time but that goliath rockgrinder you posted a while ago was incredible as well, would you mind sharing your method for the yellow on it?
"I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
Also, I meant to ask at the time but that goliath rockgrinder you posted a while ago was incredible as well, would you mind sharing your method for the yellow on it?
Nay problemo. It's airbrush heavy though, just to warn you:
1) Prime black, basecoat Rhinox Hide or equivalent, followed by random patches of red - these two steps are for the rust.
2) Using a piece of scourer, blot off some Maskol or similar masking fluid and dab it around the model to represent where the rust patches will be. Corners or spots that would act as handholds are especially ideal.
3) All-over coat of Averland Sunset.
4) Airbrush a lighter yellow (I used VGC Sun Yellow mixed with a little VMC Ice Yellow) into the middle of the vehicle panels.
6) It looked a little desaturated at this point, so I tinted the whole model with a thin airbrushed coat of Casandora Yellow.
6) Lightly airbrush thinned Rhinox Hide or equivalent into panel recesses, along panel lines and on rivets.
7) Using bluetac, remove all the Maskol and then paint thin lines underneath all the rust patches with a mix of Sun Yellow and Ice Yellow.
8) Seal the whole thing with gloss varnish.
9) Thin some burnt umber oil paint with white spirit and apply it to all the panel lines and rivets. It'll run along all the recesses and provide loads more depth and griminess.
10) Seal again with matt varnish.
EDIT that should take you to roughly this stage:
Kneel on
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Finished up my Raptor Lord this morning! He's been a beast in 8th so far, sneaking in and throwing knockout punches.
Also tried out a turnaround gif. It's passable, but I need a better camera than what my phone has.
Posts
From above:
Front:
Back:
Might do more checkers on him than the jaw but so far I like just that and the rest mostly metal unless it is ork or wires.
Did you paint them?
https://www.amazon.com/Painting-Station-Citadel-Model-Master/dp/B01M14EZHF/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500297444&sr=8-2&keywords=paint+station
However, the idea was that only a project or two would be on it. What really happens is the active project ends up on it, and then every other miniature in the house ends up behind it on the table. Including dozens of half assembled terminators, bikes, etc.
*glances at painting table*
Yep, checks out.
Reaper Bones: Angels of Protection and Darkness.
I'll try to get a better picture of them tomorrow. This one's basically lit up by a cieling light and my monitor.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
I have had this issue with other paints, but none have required this much shaking. Can anyone speak to their experience with these paints? Are they of a decent quality compared to MSP and citadel? I do not think they are old, as it is the 2017 version of the set, and the paints aren't dried by any means.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
War Colours have glass agitators, and their paints actually ship with one in the bottle.
I've been reading more about Army Painter and it seems some people give up on them due to the need to shake the paint more than usual, while those that stick to them really like them once they get used to it. The same goes for the primer, the company's guide is to do a close, continual back and forth spray for two or three passes, but many people try to use them like regular primer.
Army Painter seems to create their products a bit differently, and that requires people to use them differently. Even the company is aware of it, all of their sprays and paints tell you in huge letters to follow the instructions exactly or to shake well, which I haven't seen before on other products, and it actually gives me confidence in them as they are willing be open about their stuff.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
Soon, soon I can start washing and detailing these guys...
They are small glass beads, I am 100% certain you don't need to import them! You'll be able to get them for pocket change on EBay.
wait wait wait
...and you're NOT calling them Skiratii???
You're welcome.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I'll be honest I was more enticed by the paints because they look delicious in those minimalist label bottles.
But I started testing the paints and after a good shake, they seem really nice. The gold is better than I thought, as it layers more easily over black than MSP gold.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
Someone else want to pick this up and paint it real nice on my behalf?
https://etsy.com/ca/listing/544958317/28mm-wargaming-and-collectible-miniature?ref=shop_home_active_1
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I took a shit this morning that looked better than FW's Gabriel Angelos.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Their stuff is garbage!
Their inks are fantastic.
I've never gotten a bad paint pot from a GW store, and the local GW store will also swap your paints if you get a crummy one.
The comic book store that sells paints and rotates stock a lot slower, though, has had some stinkers.
Hello.
Nearly done.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Also, I meant to ask at the time but that goliath rockgrinder you posted a while ago was incredible as well, would you mind sharing your method for the yellow on it?
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
Nay problemo. It's airbrush heavy though, just to warn you:
1) Prime black, basecoat Rhinox Hide or equivalent, followed by random patches of red - these two steps are for the rust.
2) Using a piece of scourer, blot off some Maskol or similar masking fluid and dab it around the model to represent where the rust patches will be. Corners or spots that would act as handholds are especially ideal.
3) All-over coat of Averland Sunset.
4) Airbrush a lighter yellow (I used VGC Sun Yellow mixed with a little VMC Ice Yellow) into the middle of the vehicle panels.
6) It looked a little desaturated at this point, so I tinted the whole model with a thin airbrushed coat of Casandora Yellow.
6) Lightly airbrush thinned Rhinox Hide or equivalent into panel recesses, along panel lines and on rivets.
7) Using bluetac, remove all the Maskol and then paint thin lines underneath all the rust patches with a mix of Sun Yellow and Ice Yellow.
8) Seal the whole thing with gloss varnish.
9) Thin some burnt umber oil paint with white spirit and apply it to all the panel lines and rivets. It'll run along all the recesses and provide loads more depth and griminess.
10) Seal again with matt varnish.
EDIT that should take you to roughly this stage:
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
Also tried out a turnaround gif. It's passable, but I need a better camera than what my phone has.