1) What fine, super fine, ultra fine detail brushes do you guys use? I was thinking about buying a set of these, but want to get as much input on what I should be looking into getting as I can before I purchase.
2) I also need a better light source. Thinking about buying this lamp. I don't have a whole lot of space to work with in my hobby room, but I do have space.
PSN: JesterKing13 Blizz Battletag: tehjester#1448
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admanbunionize your workplaceSeattle, WARegistered Userregular
Honestly, I use a #1 to paint everything, including eyes. Just about everyone I paint with does the same.
My local 40k league is doing an army painting competition in 500 point increments and the first one is due this thursday
I'm really regretting including 10 dark imperium plague marines in my lot right about now
The store I played at until it shut down did this
It really got me and others to paint our armies so it was weird not to see a sea of primer and few painted armies
But the store owner gave away things to get people even more into painting like terrain or other things
I use a Raphael 8404 size 0 for everything besides basecoating and drybrushing and it's simply amazing, Amazon is selling them for $6 right now it looks like. Link
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Painting stuff for a Malifaux League. The League seems to be really casual, main goal is to paint a certain number of models a month, and play with the "wurst" crew boxes.
So far I haven't quite kept up with the painting requirement as I am extremely slow to paint, partially due to lack of free time.
Damn, Nisi. Those are some really nice tones you have going on there. Making progress with the airbrush?
I'm going to be painting my first model with human skin in ages. I was terrible at it in the past, and have basically avoided it via helmets for a long time.
I'm going to be swinging by a hobby shop today with a really good range of Vallejo paints, so, any pointers on what to pick up or painting techniques would be really appreciated.
Painting muscle and fat is a bit trickier, but as far as faces you can paint them like you would a skull. Base bone, white highlights, lightly shaded recesses, then just throw a flesh wash over it all.
Painting stuff for a Malifaux League. The League seems to be really casual, main goal is to paint a certain number of models a month, and play with the "wurst" crew boxes.
So far I haven't quite kept up with the painting requirement as I am extremely slow to paint, partially due to lack of free time.
Damn, Nisi. Those are some really nice tones you have going on there. Making progress with the airbrush?
Only used the airbrush on the fox (Shang). I actually find flame effects to be fairly easy with the airbrush. Just figure out where it should be brightest/hottest and spray accordingly. Oh and for priming of course.
The other two were done with brush. I'm actually really happy with how the skin tones on Yu came out. That was mainly a result of watching a bunch of Shoshie's streams. She had some really good streams on painting KD survivors and the flower witch that focused on skintones
I'm going to be painting my first model with human skin in ages. I was terrible at it in the past, and have basically avoided it via helmets for a long time.
I've only had to paint skin a few times because I build Space Marines, so I just mixed red, white, and yellow to create a peach color, then added a tiny bit of brown to make it look like a standard caucasian tone, and then shaded it. Looks sorta ok, but since it's only a head and is only on my sergeants it's not really noticeable.
I've been thinking of getting some Age of Sigmar chaos minis though, so if I do that I'll have to learn how to actually paint skin instead of just winging it.
I'm going to be painting my first model with human skin in ages. I was terrible at it in the past, and have basically avoided it via helmets for a long time.
I've only had to paint skin a few times because I build Space Marines, so I just mixed red, white, and yellow to create a peach color, then added a tiny bit of brown to make it look like a standard caucasian tone, and then shaded it. Looks sorta ok, but since it's only a head and is only on my sergeants it's not really noticeable.
I've been thinking of getting some Age of Sigmar chaos minis though, so if I do that I'll have to learn how to actually paint skin instead of just winging it.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Okay so I'm working on my Gatorman Posse, I'm still using the Black Primer (didn't want to wait to get the white, also couldn't decide where to get it from) here's one of the Gators with a couple of layers of white
For reference a coloring like this is my ideal:
So what I'm going to do is try 3 basic strategies on 3 of my Gators (that can hopefully be corrected if it looks really bad) for one, I'm going to use a lighter wash, to try and bring out the scales without compromising the white, I'll try a darker wash and use more layers of white to try and give it more definition while keeping the bold white coloration, and I'll try one where I make it as white as possible without overdoing the layers and no wash, probably just dry brush white on white for a couple of layers. I'll post an example of all three to see what people think.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
The nice thing about skin in 40k and AoS is that you don't have to be all to realistic and go a bit crazy on the skin tones and for axample can shade with all different kind of colours depending on the wanted effect.
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
You might want to try giving it a gloss varnish and then a really thin ink wash in the crevices.
I might get some varnish and try that for the fourth. I'm doing this for experimentation as much as anything.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
The nice thing about skin in 40k and AoS is that you don't have to be all to realistic and go a bit crazy on the skin tones and for axample can shade with all different kind of colours depending on the wanted effect.
All my pox walkers, cultists and the flesh on the drone and helbrutes got a purple wash over a flesh base before highlights and it works great.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
I really need to start writing down the more complex mixes I use for some of the stuff I do, it just occurred to me I never wrote down exactly what mix I used for my Wrastlers mask, it's wash, and the inside of his mouth. I mean I can probably approximate, but that's a bit sloppy.
Anyway here are the early results of my experiment
No Wash:
Light Wash
Dark Wash
One thing I'm wondering is for stuff like white on dark, should I be using a dry brush layer of a darker color before I use white? Because I'm finding it difficult to get the drybrush white on the darker figures to be as bright as on the lighter wash or no wash figures.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited August 2017
I like the dark wash, and I would then hit the very outside of those scales with the color you want, but leave those dark recesses.
That's why a layer of gloss varnish works first. It makes the wash slide right off the raised areas, and lets you wick up any stubborn pools that remain. Then you should put a matte layer down after it dries to get rid of the shine and proceed as normal with highlights.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
What gloss varnish do you recommend? Are there on s designed for miniatures or do you just use a hardware variety? And do you apply it like a dry brush layer?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
I really need to start writing down the more complex mixes I use for some of the stuff I do, it just occurred to me I never wrote down exactly what mix I used for my Wrastlers mask, it's wash, and the inside of his mouth. I mean I can probably approximate, but that's a bit sloppy.
Anyway here are the early results of my experiment
No Wash:
Light Wash
Dark Wash
One thing I'm wondering is for stuff like white on dark, should I be using a dry brush layer of a darker color before I use white? Because I'm finding it difficult to get the drybrush white on the darker figures to be as bright as on the lighter wash or no wash figures.
You don't want to be basing these white, use a light grey, like very light, Gw do a colour, rakarth flesh I think? Base it in that, do a light wash and then drybrush it white doing it heavier on the edge of the scales.
Edit: Again we prostrate ourselves before the paint god. Two thin coats for the coat throne!
Gloss varnish is pretty much all the same stuff in different cans. I'd get a brush on version though as the aerosol sprays will turn cloudy if you look at them wrong. One thin coat is enough. It turns your model into a dry erase board for correcting any mistakes when you can just take a napkin to the problem.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
So you apply a coat and after the wash a matte paint? Or a matte varnish?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
When you're completely done with the model you can either matte it, or gloss then matte. You don't need to do anything special to the gloss after its dry, you can paint it like anything else, it just helps washes and inks flow better.
It's also a way to put in a barrier to keep the more delicate paints from getting eaten by corrosive stuff like tamiya clears or microsol decal appliers.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I would not apply any gloss or matte finishes until I was done painting.
I really need to start writing down the more complex mixes I use for some of the stuff I do, it just occurred to me I never wrote down exactly what mix I used for my Wrastlers mask, it's wash, and the inside of his mouth. I mean I can probably approximate, but that's a bit sloppy.
Anyway here are the early results of my experiment
No Wash:
Light Wash
Dark Wash
One thing I'm wondering is for stuff like white on dark, should I be using a dry brush layer of a darker color before I use white? Because I'm finding it difficult to get the drybrush white on the darker figures to be as bright as on the lighter wash or no wash figures.
You don't want to be basing these white, use a light grey, like very light, Gw do a colour, rakarth flesh I think? Base it in that, do a light wash and then drybrush it white doing it heavier on the edge of the scales.
Edit: Again we prostrate ourselves before the paint god. Two thin coats for the coat throne!
I actually have a bunch of models that I've given a coat of matte varnish, but I kind of want to touch them up a bit. How easy is it to paint over matte?
"I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
Painting stuff for a Malifaux League. The League seems to be really casual, main goal is to paint a certain number of models a month, and play with the "wurst" crew boxes.
So far I haven't quite kept up with the painting requirement as I am extremely slow to paint, partially due to lack of free time.
I'm really interested in that Shang model because I would love to paint one up as Ninetales from Okami. Are Malifaux minis metal? I've heard people complain about them being difficult to put together... Was Shang?
Current Malifaux stuff is plastic and has a tendency to come in an excessive amount of tiny pieces. Though Shang doesn't seem too bad on the Malifaux scale.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I would not apply any gloss or matte finishes until I was done painting.
No no no. Gloss varnish at certain points in the process is a useful tool for getting washes to flow correctly (especially on surfaces that are supposed to be smooth) and for helping decals not look terrible. They are a required step in any sort of oil or pigment wash.
It's easy enough to paint over matte varnish. It has all the tooth you need. I use it as a primer on some plastic models if I want to keep the base color.
I collect wargaming products called Path to Glory now.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Dark Age has been in my periphery for years at this point. I genuinely fear that at some point CMON is going to stop throwing Wrath of Kings stuff in the NoVA swags bags and switch to Dark Age.
I'm from the UK but I've had no issue with them and neither have my friends. You could always get in touch with regards to when stock arrives or shipping to Europe.
Posts
1) What fine, super fine, ultra fine detail brushes do you guys use? I was thinking about buying a set of these, but want to get as much input on what I should be looking into getting as I can before I purchase.
2) I also need a better light source. Thinking about buying this lamp. I don't have a whole lot of space to work with in my hobby room, but I do have space.
Go forth, green paint!
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I got one of those , and its in working order. hard paint to deal with.
I'm really regretting including 10 dark imperium plague marines in my lot right about now
I once painted 90% of a model with my basecoat brush and couldn't really notice any difference.
It's one of those wide but flat brushes, and painting details with the flat side worked surprisingly well.
The store I played at until it shut down did this
It really got me and others to paint our armies so it was weird not to see a sea of primer and few painted armies
But the store owner gave away things to get people even more into painting like terrain or other things
Damn, Nisi. Those are some really nice tones you have going on there. Making progress with the airbrush?
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I'm going to be swinging by a hobby shop today with a really good range of Vallejo paints, so, any pointers on what to pick up or painting techniques would be really appreciated.
Only used the airbrush on the fox (Shang). I actually find flame effects to be fairly easy with the airbrush. Just figure out where it should be brightest/hottest and spray accordingly. Oh and for priming of course.
The other two were done with brush. I'm actually really happy with how the skin tones on Yu came out. That was mainly a result of watching a bunch of Shoshie's streams. She had some really good streams on painting KD survivors and the flower witch that focused on skintones
I've only had to paint skin a few times because I build Space Marines, so I just mixed red, white, and yellow to create a peach color, then added a tiny bit of brown to make it look like a standard caucasian tone, and then shaded it. Looks sorta ok, but since it's only a head and is only on my sergeants it's not really noticeable.
I've been thinking of getting some Age of Sigmar chaos minis though, so if I do that I'll have to learn how to actually paint skin instead of just winging it.
The robot has your answer!
And on and on
For reference a coloring like this is my ideal:
So what I'm going to do is try 3 basic strategies on 3 of my Gators (that can hopefully be corrected if it looks really bad) for one, I'm going to use a lighter wash, to try and bring out the scales without compromising the white, I'll try a darker wash and use more layers of white to try and give it more definition while keeping the bold white coloration, and I'll try one where I make it as white as possible without overdoing the layers and no wash, probably just dry brush white on white for a couple of layers. I'll post an example of all three to see what people think.
I might get some varnish and try that for the fourth. I'm doing this for experimentation as much as anything.
All my pox walkers, cultists and the flesh on the drone and helbrutes got a purple wash over a flesh base before highlights and it works great.
Anyway here are the early results of my experiment
No Wash:
Light Wash
Dark Wash
One thing I'm wondering is for stuff like white on dark, should I be using a dry brush layer of a darker color before I use white? Because I'm finding it difficult to get the drybrush white on the darker figures to be as bright as on the lighter wash or no wash figures.
You don't want to be basing these white, use a light grey, like very light, Gw do a colour, rakarth flesh I think? Base it in that, do a light wash and then drybrush it white doing it heavier on the edge of the scales.
Edit: Again we prostrate ourselves before the paint god. Two thin coats for the coat throne!
It's also a way to put in a barrier to keep the more delicate paints from getting eaten by corrosive stuff like tamiya clears or microsol decal appliers.
Durr I never figured out that for my pads on my Black Templar as it was always just white
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
I'm really interested in that Shang model because I would love to paint one up as Ninetales from Okami. Are Malifaux minis metal? I've heard people complain about them being difficult to put together... Was Shang?
No no no. Gloss varnish at certain points in the process is a useful tool for getting washes to flow correctly (especially on surfaces that are supposed to be smooth) and for helping decals not look terrible. They are a required step in any sort of oil or pigment wash.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
And on that day I will be well and truly fucked.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
So probably not picking up any more Dark Age until that happens.
Have you tried Element games at all?
I'm from the UK but I've had no issue with them and neither have my friends. You could always get in touch with regards to when stock arrives or shipping to Europe.