So, I have muscular dystrophy, so due to the muscle control in my hands, I may still be able to be a great fighting game player....but there's no way I am painting.
I recently got pulled into trying Warhammer 40k.
Do you think if I went to a local hobby shop or looked around, people could be hired to pain the figures? I may not have muscle control, but I DO have a job and no need to buy Nike Sneakers .
No idea how much I'd pay them / they'd want, but yeah...grey = eww.
XBL: Bizazedo
PSN: Bizazedo
CFN: Bizazedo (I don't think I suck, add me).
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
There's a sizable cottage industry for mini painting commissions.
However quality and ability to execute within a deadline is extremely hit-or-miss.
Painting stuff for a Malifaux League. The League seems to be really casual, main goal is to paint a certain number of models a month, and play with the "wurst" crew boxes.
So far I haven't quite kept up with the painting requirement as I am extremely slow to paint, partially due to lack of free time.
I'm really interested in that Shang model because I would love to paint one up as Ninetales from Okami. Are Malifaux minis metal? I've heard people complain about them being difficult to put together... Was Shang?
As Jam Warrior said they are primarily difficult due to the number of tiny pieces. Shang is mostly straight forward but the tail can be a little tricky, because of how it fits together. Once you can visualize it though it fits together pretty easily. This blog explains about the tail https://malifauxshadow.blogspot.com/2014/02/malifaux-shang-tail.html I did have to use a little green stuff for gap filling on a spot or two.
If you're looking for just Shang and not the whole box your best bet is trading or buying from Gadzooks (https://www.gadzooksgaming.com/products/shang-the-thunder-wyr20701). Shang isn't particularly good gameplay wise so I imagine you might be able to buy/trade from someone who has purchased the box and doesn't use him.
I'm from the UK but I've had no issue with them and neither have my friends. You could always get in touch with regards to when stock arrives or shipping to Europe.
Painting stuff for a Malifaux League. The League seems to be really casual, main goal is to paint a certain number of models a month, and play with the "wurst" crew boxes.
So far I haven't quite kept up with the painting requirement as I am extremely slow to paint, partially due to lack of free time.
I'm really interested in that Shang model because I would love to paint one up as Ninetales from Okami. Are Malifaux minis metal? I've heard people complain about them being difficult to put together... Was Shang?
As Jam Warrior said they are primarily difficult due to the number of tiny pieces. Shang is mostly straight forward but the tail can be a little tricky, because of how it fits together. Once you can visualize it though it fits together pretty easily. This blog explains about the tail https://malifauxshadow.blogspot.com/2014/02/malifaux-shang-tail.html I did have to use a little green stuff for gap filling on a spot or two.
If you're looking for just Shang and not the whole box your best bet is trading or buying from Gadzooks (https://www.gadzooksgaming.com/products/shang-the-thunder-wyr20701). Shang isn't particularly good gameplay wise so I imagine you might be able to buy/trade from someone who has purchased the box and doesn't use him.
Zero interest in the game. Just saw your mini and immediately wanted to do up my own! Thanks for the Gadzooks link!
So, I have muscular dystrophy, so due to the muscle control in my hands, I may still be able to be a great fighting game player....but there's no way I am painting.
I recently got pulled into trying Warhammer 40k.
Do you think if I went to a local hobby shop or looked around, people could be hired to pain the figures? I may not have muscle control, but I DO have a job and no need to buy Nike Sneakers .
No idea how much I'd pay them / they'd want, but yeah...grey = eww.
I've got some gnarly hand problems as well, and it's still possible to paint okay to decent looking miniatures with little brush control. You depend a lot more on washes and drybrushing but it will look good with practice and more importantly you can say that you made this. What you might need is someone to help clean and assemble the models, as especially with more modern kits there's some really fiddly bits involved.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
0
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
I'll wait till I get my gloss before working on the rest of the posse but I did go ahead and finish up the two I had already put washes on.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
+10
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I would not apply any gloss or matte finishes until I was done painting.
No no no. Gloss varnish at certain points in the process is a useful tool for getting washes to flow correctly (especially on surfaces that are supposed to be smooth) and for helping decals not look terrible. They are a required step in any sort of oil or pigment wash.
I do actually use the lights, they're not great though. I use a desk lamp on a swivel in addition. I actually was writing my post at the same time as Echo and didn't see his reply till just now
I've got some gnarly hand problems as well, and it's still possible to paint okay to decent looking miniatures with little brush control. You depend a lot more on washes and drybrushing but it will look good with practice and more importantly you can say that you made this. What you might need is someone to help clean and assemble the models, as especially with more modern kits there's some really fiddly bits involved.
....you know what, maybe I will take a stab at it. They're just Primaris Marines, what's the worst that could happen, right?
XBL: Bizazedo
PSN: Bizazedo
CFN: Bizazedo (I don't think I suck, add me).
The second one is the same as the first but with LED lighting, right? Do you make good use of the lights?
Would that also be usable to use a spray can with in a rush.
I have the one minus any LED lighting. I use a light above the hood, and one that shines through the back of the hood. The hood is worth it, and lights are cheap.
I also started airbrushing using that spray booth. It is really helpful as it contains the paint and gives you a safe place to position your model for painting. A lot of paint will end up off the model, so I would say it is an important thing to have.
I wouldn't recommend it for spray cans though - they do not spray with the control of air brushes and will come back at you (I've experienced this using a box as a booth).
I've got some gnarly hand problems as well, and it's still possible to paint okay to decent looking miniatures with little brush control. You depend a lot more on washes and drybrushing but it will look good with practice and more importantly you can say that you made this. What you might need is someone to help clean and assemble the models, as especially with more modern kits there's some really fiddly bits involved.
....you know what, maybe I will take a stab at it. They're just Primaris Marines, what's the worst that could happen, right?
I'm not sure what your level of control is like, but honestly any paint job is better than bare gray plastic, and the worst case scenario is that they take a dip in some isopropyl alcohol/Simple Green/whatever. It's worth a shot.
Hand positioning might help too, one of the ways I minimize movement is to hold the mini in my right hand (reverse this if you're right handed obviously) and the brush in my left with my fingers fairly close to the ferrule. The pad between my thumb and wrist on both hands are pressed together for stability.
Hopefully you can find a method that will work for you, but if not you could always say you tried before going the commission route.
0
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I'm assembling 10 Mk III marines without instructions. Or I was until I thought to Google it.
These are pretty cool, but will definitely look different than my regular Tac marines. I'm just not sure how to equip them. I don't have a lightning claw, so the sergeant will probably get that. But I really like that thunder hammer. And the Melta fun looks weird, but they're useful. Decisions, decisions.
I've got some gnarly hand problems as well, and it's still possible to paint okay to decent looking miniatures with little brush control. You depend a lot more on washes and drybrushing but it will look good with practice and more importantly you can say that you made this. What you might need is someone to help clean and assemble the models, as especially with more modern kits there's some really fiddly bits involved.
....you know what, maybe I will take a stab at it. They're just Primaris Marines, what's the worst that could happen, right?
It's also honestly shocking how good a group of painted miniatures looks when assembled. It almost doesn't matter how well they're painted, at arm's length. Space marines, with their armour design, also take a monochrome or dichrome colour scheme really well.
+2
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I'm assembling 10 Mk III marines without instructions. Or I was until I thought to Google it.
These are pretty cool, but will definitely look different than my regular Tac marines. I'm just not sure how to equip them. I don't have a lightning claw, so the sergeant will probably get that. But I really like that thunder hammer. And the Melta fun looks weird, but they're useful. Decisions, decisions.
If I'm not mistaken, I can build several different sergeants using these ten figures... hmmm.... that might give me options.
Let me see if I can build the Melta gun and the plasma gun too.
Made some definite mistakes, not used to doing skin. I wanted her to be pale but man, vallejo pale skin needs tons of thinning. Thought I did enough but still came out chalky. Have to get used to the slightly more military style of Infinity as opposed to the super cartoony style of 40k.
Only thing left to do with the model is topcoat it, haven't ever done this to a non-gunpla kit. Any tips to make sure I don't screw the pooch on this last step? I've got an airbrush, if that helps.
I'm super happy with how she can out holding her at arms length, but up close I have a lot of little things to nitpick. But I'm not going to obsess over it so I can move on to the next model.
You could probably get away with just matte varnishing it, infinity models aren't really heavy or lopsided enough to fall over all the time so just the usual wear of being handled would be covered by some matte. A thin coat over the whole thing by brush would be okay, just don't let it pool in any crevices.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
+1
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited August 2017
I finished my IF captain after two years of thinking about him. I'm not sure if the colors on the chest piece are too Christmas-y, but I'm calling him done.
I tipped out the excess water and tried again, but the paper i'm using is wrong i think. Its Palette Paper my wife used for oil painting.
I'll pick up some baking paper next time i'm out
I tried the same thing and had much the same result as you. Too much wet, not enough palette. Although I'm using Model Air paints, so they're already pretty thin. Even the slight thinning from the palette made them an ink rather than paint.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
I just ended up buying a palette kit with sponges and paper off amazon. I overpay for everything else involved in this awful hobby, why not my palettes too.
I've got some MDF terrain coming. I don't have an airbrush and I'm not suuuper inclined to pick one up. But I'm not really sure if a brush is going to be up the task. Hrrm,
Get an airbrush only if you will use it for more than that, or if you will use it often for that task.
I'm glad I got into it, and being able to prime and basecoat with it has made me enjoy the hobby much more. However, it's a big up front cost with a lot of clean up needed. I'm okay with the clean up now, as I find it interesting to pull apart and maintain the airbrush, but it will take a little time to get used to it.
Nah, I'm not getting an airbrush. I have an unventilated place that is essentially a condo for space purposes. There is nowhere I could set up a hood to safely spray. I just WISH I could airbrush the terrain.
Darkewolfe on
What is this I don't even.
+1
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
How long does gloss varnish usually take to dry, should I be letting this for like an hour or two, or a day?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Only thing that doesn't quite measure up to the rest of the models is the one highlight down the middle of the sword. It looks a bit wonky in the picture.
That black armour :eek:
0
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
So here is my first, probably awful, attempt at doing a wash after applying a gloss layer. I suspect I might have diluted the wash a bit too much, or maybe the wash just needs to be darker? I dunno.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
You don't need to dilute the wash at all. Normally you add water to thin it and make it seep into cracks better, but if it's varnished it's gonna slip into those cracks faster than that hiker in Utah that sawed his arm off. Also if it's a GW wash, sometimes those don't play nice with water anyway.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
0
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
edited August 2017
Oh, when I do a wash I mean I dilute paint with water not that I use a premade wash, and I remember someone mentioned the wash should be thinned more for after the gloss so it gets in crevices better but I think I might've overdone it, I think I might do another less diluted wash.
Edit: also I have another question on procedure. So, when the base coat is white, and I've added a wash that darkens the base coat a bit, should I dry brush on a slightly darker shade than the base (like light grey) so I can drybrush a second layer of white onto that and make it more vibrant, or should I just be drybrushing white?
Lord_Asmodeus on
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
Oh, when I do a wash I mean I dilute paint with water not that I use a premade wash, and I remember someone mentioned the wash should be thinned more for after the gloss so it gets in crevices better but I think I might've overdone it, I think I might do another less diluted wash.
If you're making your own washes, add a little dish soap to the mix.
Very little. Like, dip a toothpick into the soap, then dip that into your wash mix. This will help break up the surface tension so it can more easily flow into the details.
Posts
So, I have muscular dystrophy, so due to the muscle control in my hands, I may still be able to be a great fighting game player....but there's no way I am painting.
I recently got pulled into trying Warhammer 40k.
Do you think if I went to a local hobby shop or looked around, people could be hired to pain the figures? I may not have muscle control, but I DO have a job and no need to buy Nike Sneakers
No idea how much I'd pay them / they'd want, but yeah...grey = eww.
PSN: Bizazedo
CFN: Bizazedo (I don't think I suck, add me).
However quality and ability to execute within a deadline is extremely hit-or-miss.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
As Jam Warrior said they are primarily difficult due to the number of tiny pieces. Shang is mostly straight forward but the tail can be a little tricky, because of how it fits together. Once you can visualize it though it fits together pretty easily. This blog explains about the tail https://malifauxshadow.blogspot.com/2014/02/malifaux-shang-tail.html I did have to use a little green stuff for gap filling on a spot or two.
If you're looking for just Shang and not the whole box your best bet is trading or buying from Gadzooks (https://www.gadzooksgaming.com/products/shang-the-thunder-wyr20701). Shang isn't particularly good gameplay wise so I imagine you might be able to buy/trade from someone who has purchased the box and doesn't use him.
Mmm. I don't have an enormous deadline, per se, but would prefer it not be ass. To the Google machine, I suppose.
Thanks.
PSN: Bizazedo
CFN: Bizazedo (I don't think I suck, add me).
Zero interest in the game. Just saw your mini and immediately wanted to do up my own! Thanks for the Gadzooks link!
I've got some gnarly hand problems as well, and it's still possible to paint okay to decent looking miniatures with little brush control. You depend a lot more on washes and drybrushing but it will look good with practice and more importantly you can say that you made this. What you might need is someone to help clean and assemble the models, as especially with more modern kits there's some really fiddly bits involved.
I did not know that.
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Painting-T-shirts/dp/B00BMUH8L6/
On that note, I should get a new filter for it.
My painting area is pretty small and I don't want overspray getting all over everything. I also wear a face mask so that I'm not inhaling paint.
Would that also be usable to use a spray can with in a rush.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
....you know what, maybe I will take a stab at it. They're just Primaris Marines, what's the worst that could happen, right?
PSN: Bizazedo
CFN: Bizazedo (I don't think I suck, add me).
I have the one minus any LED lighting. I use a light above the hood, and one that shines through the back of the hood. The hood is worth it, and lights are cheap.
I've been busy.
I wouldn't recommend it for spray cans though - they do not spray with the control of air brushes and will come back at you (I've experienced this using a box as a booth).
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
I'm not sure what your level of control is like, but honestly any paint job is better than bare gray plastic, and the worst case scenario is that they take a dip in some isopropyl alcohol/Simple Green/whatever. It's worth a shot.
Hand positioning might help too, one of the ways I minimize movement is to hold the mini in my right hand (reverse this if you're right handed obviously) and the brush in my left with my fingers fairly close to the ferrule. The pad between my thumb and wrist on both hands are pressed together for stability.
Hopefully you can find a method that will work for you, but if not you could always say you tried before going the commission route.
These are pretty cool, but will definitely look different than my regular Tac marines. I'm just not sure how to equip them. I don't have a lightning claw, so the sergeant will probably get that. But I really like that thunder hammer. And the Melta fun looks weird, but they're useful. Decisions, decisions.
It's also honestly shocking how good a group of painted miniatures looks when assembled. It almost doesn't matter how well they're painted, at arm's length. Space marines, with their armour design, also take a monochrome or dichrome colour scheme really well.
If I'm not mistaken, I can build several different sergeants using these ten figures... hmmm.... that might give me options.
Let me see if I can build the Melta gun and the plasma gun too.
Made some definite mistakes, not used to doing skin. I wanted her to be pale but man, vallejo pale skin needs tons of thinning. Thought I did enough but still came out chalky. Have to get used to the slightly more military style of Infinity as opposed to the super cartoony style of 40k.
Only thing left to do with the model is topcoat it, haven't ever done this to a non-gunpla kit. Any tips to make sure I don't screw the pooch on this last step? I've got an airbrush, if that helps.
I'm super happy with how she can out holding her at arms length, but up close I have a lot of little things to nitpick. But I'm not going to obsess over it so I can move on to the next model.
guys i tried to make a wet palette and i got too much wet and not enough palette whoops
Flip it and wipe off excess with a dry paper towel.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I'll pick up some baking paper next time i'm out
I'm glad I got into it, and being able to prime and basecoat with it has made me enjoy the hobby much more. However, it's a big up front cost with a lot of clean up needed. I'm okay with the clean up now, as I find it interesting to pull apart and maintain the airbrush, but it will take a little time to get used to it.
PSN: ShinyRedKnight Xbox Live: ShinyRedKnight
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Only thing that doesn't quite measure up to the rest of the models is the one highlight down the middle of the sword. It looks a bit wonky in the picture.
That black armour :eek:
Edit: also I have another question on procedure. So, when the base coat is white, and I've added a wash that darkens the base coat a bit, should I dry brush on a slightly darker shade than the base (like light grey) so I can drybrush a second layer of white onto that and make it more vibrant, or should I just be drybrushing white?
If you're making your own washes, add a little dish soap to the mix.
Very little. Like, dip a toothpick into the soap, then dip that into your wash mix. This will help break up the surface tension so it can more easily flow into the details.