Army dark tone is my go-to replacement, but it I will never replace badab black in my heart. Nuln Oil is a poor replacement, other than using the gloss version for oily stuff.
Thanks! I've realised I've lost the ability of painting economically - it's full precision no matter the price. So it's pretty much stopped making sense to do it for money.
I've added a slightly better photo though.
Mayday on
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TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
Did a plagueman in ~90 minutes today. I think forcing myself to not drag my feet too long on a single model has improved my painting
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Damn that was done in 90 minutes? Fuckin' hell that is awesome.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I use GW's Nuln Oil.
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Nova_CI have the needThe need for speedRegistered Userregular
edited September 2017
I am back! I dunno if you guys remember, I was starting to work some months ago on some of the Reaper minis I got in their very first kickstarter. I find painting minis very difficult! The precision is what kills me. I'm working on it, but those really detailed minis that fill this thread may as well be painted by magic to me. :P
Anyway, I painted up a devil for an encounter in the D&D game I'm running. I kept it simple and I like how it turned out!
I was painting up some skeletons for another encounter and realized that the only wood brown I have is walnut brown, which looked very black to me, so I ordered some paints from Reaper directly to fill out some holes in my colour options. Got a few selected minis as well. Can't wait to paint the Dracolisk and Giant Scorpion.
I finished one wing of my Heldrake. This is a multiweek project of slow spurts and such. I love the claws.
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
So generally what would you all consider to be the rule regarding doing a wash/drybrush or just leaving something the plain color? Sometimes I'm unsure if I should be using a wash at all, especially on stuff like metals. Obviously on skin and clothing it works really well, but sometimes on details or armor bits I feel like it's better to just leave it a solid color and not try to do too much detail work where simple colors will do.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
So generally what would you all consider to be the rule regarding doing a wash/drybrush or just leaving something the plain color? Sometimes I'm unsure if I should be using a wash at all, especially on stuff like metals. Obviously on skin and clothing it works really well, but sometimes on details or armor bits I feel like it's better to just leave it a solid color and not try to do too much detail work where simple colors will do.
If I do a wash i do it across the entire mini. I feel that if I leave parts unwashed that it looks odd. Like chainmail benefits hugely from a wash to really bring out the rings. Same thing with notches or scratches in weapons and armor.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
You can use washes on every part of the model. I use multiple washes per mini. I'll give my yellow marines a Nuln Oil (black) wash over their base coat, then when I'm doing skin, use a flesh wash like Reikland Flesh or what I still have, the old Ogryn Flesh, metal bits get another Nuln Oil wash before they get highlights. The red trim gets a Carroburg Crimson or Baal Red wash. It all depends on what you're doing, but washes help to bring out your highlights, by deepening the recesses.
So generally what would you all consider to be the rule regarding doing a wash/drybrush or just leaving something the plain color? Sometimes I'm unsure if I should be using a wash at all, especially on stuff like metals. Obviously on skin and clothing it works really well, but sometimes on details or armor bits I feel like it's better to just leave it a solid color and not try to do too much detail work where simple colors will do.
Unless I am doing something really specific and unique for some reason, wash everything and highlight everything (that highlight can come from drybrushing, edge highlighting, or some other technique.)
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
It would be cool to do some minis in the cell shaded/borderlands style.
The Hierodule is killing me so I'm taking a break from it. Instead I'm working on the second component for a diorama (the Rockgrinder was the first), a Genestealer Cult Leman Russ. The colours are deliberately aping those of my Tyranids.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
The Hierodule is killing me so I'm taking a break from it. Instead I'm working on the second component for a diorama (the Rockgrinder was the first), a Genestealer Cult Leman Russ. The colours are deliberately aping those of my Tyranids.
It would be cool to do some minis in the cell shaded/borderlands style.
The painting technique for that is called blacklining - a dark line dividing different areas. To get cel shading, take that to DA MAX.
Fuck that looks so good.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I was in the shower today planning what I wanted to do for tonight when it occurred to me that I missed a portion on the last squad I painted. Looked at the pic, and yep, I completely forgot to paint the grips under the bolter barrels black.
I'm borrowing the gf's camera. First pic of one of the finished Kataphrons (sans Forge World symbol. Haven't figured out how to realistically achieve the Stgies VIII symbol across an army.)
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
It works so well because there's a huge contrast change from the recesses to the base color then a softer change from the base color to highlights and it's executed with 100% consistency across the model. I'm curious to see if the effect would be as striking with darker colors.
Not curious enough to actually do it though. If you paint even a single model like that you've got to commit to doing the whole army that way.
Thanks. I'm pretty happy about the reds. It's actually just layers of evil sun scarlet and wild rider red over mephiston base (or khorne red? I forgot.) with some strong tone wash in the recesses.
Using a proper camera also helps. My old one can't show off reds for shit.
edit: Made a few more pictures of the unit. Looking at them I might need to give one of them another layer of rust/dust on the tracks.
honovere on
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TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
My Blightcaller should be finished later this week. Plague marines are somehow a pleasant break from a land raider
really love that Orange and blue color scheme with your Orc blood bowl team, also would like to point how fucking amazing the new sculpts for blood bowl actually are.
Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."
He needs to paint the humans up in black/red Georgia Bulldog colors to make it even.
I'm not onto Football personally, so I I'm taking the favourite teams of a couple I'm friends with for the color schemes. This is her team, his team is going to be white, grey, blue, with silver helmets.
Am I missing a trick? Army painter sprays are great, but the matched dropper bottle paints seem to always be ridiculously thin and poorly colour mixed even though I shake them until my arms ache. Is there some special technique for dropper bottles? I've always been using GW flip tops before. Is it because the bottles are too full and the stuff in the top of the dropper just isn't mixing?
Jam Warrior on
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Buy some tiny ball bearings and drop one in each bottle to act as an agitator. I'm still baffled that Reaper is the only paint maker that bothers to put agitators in their dropper bottles.
Am I missing a trick? Army painter sprays are great, but the matched dropper bottle paints seem to always be ridiculously thin and poorly colour mixed even though I shake them until my arms ache. Is there some special technique for dropper bottles? I've always been using GW flip tops before. Is it because the bottles are too full and the stuff in the top of the dropper just isn't mixing?
Most people just put a ball bearing or a bead or something similar in the paint to act as an agitator, it helps a lot.
Personally I've found rolling dropper bottlers between my hands as well as shaking up and down helps.
Also I've found that sometimes with some dropper bottles even after all the shaking the world the first drop is just awful, like you know when your squeeze some ketchup and the first bit is all vinegar with a splash of red and then the second squeeze is fine? Sometimes I get that with paint.
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With this sorry bunch I officially end my commission painting career (except for maybe a bit of Deatwatch for my friend).
Thanks! I've realised I've lost the ability of painting economically - it's full precision no matter the price. So it's pretty much stopped making sense to do it for money.
I've added a slightly better photo though.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Anyway, I painted up a devil for an encounter in the D&D game I'm running. I kept it simple and I like how it turned out!
I was painting up some skeletons for another encounter and realized that the only wood brown I have is walnut brown, which looked very black to me, so I ordered some paints from Reaper directly to fill out some holes in my colour options. Got a few selected minis as well. Can't wait to paint the Dracolisk and Giant Scorpion.
If I do a wash i do it across the entire mini. I feel that if I leave parts unwashed that it looks odd. Like chainmail benefits hugely from a wash to really bring out the rings. Same thing with notches or scratches in weapons and armor.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Unless I am doing something really specific and unique for some reason, wash everything and highlight everything (that highlight can come from drybrushing, edge highlighting, or some other technique.)
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
The Hierodule is killing me so I'm taking a break from it. Instead I'm working on the second component for a diorama (the Rockgrinder was the first), a Genestealer Cult Leman Russ. The colours are deliberately aping those of my Tyranids.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Pretty sure that's its job :P
The painting technique for that is called blacklining - a dark line dividing different areas. To get cel shading, take that to DA MAX.
Fuck that looks so good.
He's got some awesome stuff. Google Nard Tyranids. For example.
HOW.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I didn't expect it to be layered! Good God!
Not curious enough to actually do it though. If you paint even a single model like that you've got to commit to doing the whole army that way.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Thanks. I'm pretty happy about the reds. It's actually just layers of evil sun scarlet and wild rider red over mephiston base (or khorne red? I forgot.) with some strong tone wash in the recesses.
Using a proper camera also helps. My old one can't show off reds for shit.
edit: Made a few more pictures of the unit. Looking at them I might need to give one of them another layer of rust/dust on the tracks.
Have to work a bit on getting the focus right.
I'd make a slightly lighter shade of the turquoise and thin line highlight part of the eye. To try and get the glowy ominous eye feel
I'm not onto Football personally, so I I'm taking the favourite teams of a couple I'm friends with for the color schemes. This is her team, his team is going to be white, grey, blue, with silver helmets.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Most people just put a ball bearing or a bead or something similar in the paint to act as an agitator, it helps a lot.
Personally I've found rolling dropper bottlers between my hands as well as shaking up and down helps.
Also I've found that sometimes with some dropper bottles even after all the shaking the world the first drop is just awful, like you know when your squeeze some ketchup and the first bit is all vinegar with a splash of red and then the second squeeze is fine? Sometimes I get that with paint.