I have a single yellow from GW. It is mostly for lining things that look all fire like. I can say their paint is way better than it use to be but you have to break down what type (base, layer, wash) you are using.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited September 2017
I've found Averland Sunset to be a really good base paint, with good coverage. Iyanden Yellow is the layer paint, and you do need a couple thin coats to make it cover well.
I've found that some of the GW paints I'm using, including Averland Sunset, seem to fade in spots and leave the primer showing through. I'm guessing that's not supposed to happen?
"I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
I've found that some of the GW paints I'm using, including Averland Sunset, seem to fade in spots and leave the primer showing through. I'm guessing that's not supposed to happen?
This will happen (especially with bright colours like yellows). Ideally you should be applying multiple thin coats anyway (even with base paints).
Honestly if you don't need multiple coats for a base layer, your paint is probably not thin enough, in my experience.
I tried Yriel Yellow, which was pretty much see through. I tried Averland Sunset and it was so streaky it looked even worse (I don't think I got a bad pot).
I know that my painting skills aren't exactly top notch, and that yellow is a traditionally difficult color to get right, but it was still frustrating. I'm pretty sure the only way anyone makes yellow look decent when they are at my skill level is going to be using a spray/airbrush, and that's way more effort than I can justify since I'm only doing one model. I think I'm just going to strip it and try with a different color.
I tried Yriel Yellow, which was pretty much see through. I tried Averland Sunset and it was so streaky it looked even worse (I don't think I got a bad pot).
Yriel Yellow is a layer paint, meant to go over another similar colour. Averland Sunset is a base, which meant for basecoats. That should work better for you.
If you are having trouble getting good coverage over black, try mixing some brown into the first coat or two. That will help you get a better base to work from.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
edited September 2017
It only took me 30 marines to finally figure out how to do shoulder decals. But now marines 31 thru 40 are good to go.
I put 5 small slices near the top edge of my round fist decals and they just lay right over. I've been tearing my hair out (lol, I'm bald!) and trying different things, such as cutting them prior to putting the decal on. This is the most slices I've put in, and I did it after they were already on the model, not before. And I put them all from the sides to the top of the decal.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Fourth squad done!
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Casually HardcoreOnce an Asshole. Trying to be better.Registered Userregular
SurfpossumA nonentitytrying to preserve the anonymity he so richly deserves.Registered Userregular
edited September 2017
So I've been working on some terrain, getting in a session every week or two... I think pretty much all that's left is to pour resin all over it, but as I have repeatedly realized, I have no idea what I'm doing.
Hennypennyway, some WIP shots:
You may notice that the water cut outs don't match up exactly... this is because when I started, I thought that 8" squares go nicely into a 2'x2' board, and so obviously they must go nicely into a 3'x3' board as well. Maths! They're hard. They are now 6" squares.
For my first time using an airbrush I decided to test out the Alpha Legion HH paint scheme, since that's what I want for the bulk of my MKIII / MKIV marines. I used a green stuff 'facade' that was primed with black krylon, airbrushed some Tamiya Aluminum, and finally a Tamiya clear green/blue mix. I think I need a lot more time getting the spray density down (it went on pretty thick), and I definitely need a more complete metal coat underneath the green/blue. I haven't bothered with the green highlights yet, but I'll be hoping to get those down once the base coat is looking good.
One question for those who airbrush: Is it best to seal the mini once you have your base coat down? I can't imagine having to strip the entire mini because I slipped while detailing the shoulders, or applied too much wash and need to touch up.
XBL GamerTag: Comrade Nexus
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
edited September 2017
If that happens, just fix the mistake. I can't imagine needing to strip a whole model because of a slip or wash correction.
It might just be the camera having trouble with the reflection through the metallics, but that model looks super super grainy.
Awful lighting, better pics tomorrow when the sun's out hopefully!
Do you have any pics from a tabletop distance? Those are pretty good looking minis, but that seems to be the kind of paint scheme that comes together best when it's not 'never going to get that close IRL' blown up.
If that happens, just fix the mistake. I can't imagine needing to strip a whole model because of a slip or wash correction.
It might just be the camera having trouble with the reflection through the metallics, but that model looks super super grainy.
Six of one, half a dozen of the other. The camera isn't perfect, but it is a bit grainy. I'm hoping to find time to get a decent test now that I understand the airbrush a bit better, but it's fairly loud and my apartment walls are thin, and my free time is usualy at night.
XBL GamerTag: Comrade Nexus
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Picked up some a Macromat from Tablewar at NOVA and shot a few pictures in my room at 12:30 in morning under shitty hotel lighting. This thing was worth every penny.
Yep! It sure is! If you go back and look at my earlier pics (fuck you, Photobucket!) all my pictures were taken under a photobox with white background, under daylight bulbs. I had to do some pretty heavy digital adjustments to the lighting levels and contrast to get the resulting pics looking the same online as they did to the naked eye. I use the same daylight bulbs, but no lightbox, and I don't need to do any adjustments, just throw them right online.
Case in point - Trygon, photo box:
It didn't take herculean effort to get that right, but still, five minutes + of effort just to get a pic ready.
Venomthropes, macromat
There's a reason why photographers use backdrops. Aside from these needing no visual editing, the backdrop just makes the models look better.
I would say GW has slightly changed their brushes. My medium drybrush has seen better days, and when I went to replace it, this flattened thing is what I got.
My original one here had a conical shape to the bristles. This may work better. Who knows.
GW keeps on changing the design of their dry brushes. Personally, the black handled rounded ones didn't work as well as the blue handled round brushes. I've liked the latest design better so far.
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TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
My progress over the weekend. The Iron Interceptors are almost ready to play!
For my first time using an airbrush I decided to test out the Alpha Legion HH paint scheme, since that's what I want for the bulk of my MKIII / MKIV marines. I used a green stuff 'facade' that was primed with black krylon, airbrushed some Tamiya Aluminum, and finally a Tamiya clear green/blue mix. I think I need a lot more time getting the spray density down (it went on pretty thick), and I definitely need a more complete metal coat underneath the green/blue. I haven't bothered with the green highlights yet, but I'll be hoping to get those down once the base coat is looking good.
One question for those who airbrush: Is it best to seal the mini once you have your base coat down? I can't imagine having to strip the entire mini because I slipped while detailing the shoulders, or applied too much wash and need to touch up.
Morty's wings have a really steep apical angle, with a very rigid costal vein and he possess what looks like an artificial pterostigma, although it might be a strange subcostal vein. What is interested is that his radial, medial, and cubital veins all seem to branch directly at their point of contact with their respective sclerites, which is unusual.
Furthermore...*blinks*
Uh so I finished a unit of vanguard over the weekend!
So...what kind of insect are his wings the closest to?
Honestly, it's a mess. Not beetles, that's for sure. If you squint and ignore a lot of stuff where the veins connect to the body, it kinda looks like Calliphora, or blowflies, which is probably what they were going for....but in all honesty it look more like a butterfly forewing, and I don't just mean because of the pointy shape of the wings.
But it's kind of a mess, and it's like a mash up of a bunch of different bugs
I know this is the painting thread, but I think i found something for 3d printing.
A lot of the problems with 3d printing are the layers it leaves behind, ruining the detail of models or showing it as an obvious print.
How do you get your models to look like injection molds?
The answer? Acetone vapor baths.
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
edited September 2017
I'm making progress on my Redemptor Dread! The base is done!
Slow and steady...
I decided the about-to-be-deceased-marine should be a Minotaur, because serious, fuck the Minotaurs. If there's ever a loyalist chapter that's likely to end weapons hot against my own, might as well be them!
This is the first time I've ever tried to free hand a chapter symbol on a shoulder pad.
I think it turned out pretty good, considering I spent an hour with a 0000 brush, and a loupe trying to get it right! Fortunately, the battle damage and purity seals help cover up some flaws.
Picked up some a Macromat from Tablewar at NOVA and shot a few pictures in my room at 12:30 in morning under shitty hotel lighting. This thing was worth every penny.
Yep! It sure is! If you go back and look at my earlier pics (fuck you, Photobucket!) all my pictures were taken under a photobox with white background, under daylight bulbs. I had to do some pretty heavy digital adjustments to the lighting levels and contrast to get the resulting pics looking the same online as they did to the naked eye. I use the same daylight bulbs, but no lightbox, and I don't need to do any adjustments, just throw them right online.
Case in point - Trygon, photo box:
It didn't take herculean effort to get that right, but still, five minutes + of effort just to get a pic ready.
Venomthropes, macromat
There's a reason why photographers use backdrops. Aside from these needing no visual editing, the backdrop just makes the models look better.
I would say GW has slightly changed their brushes. My medium drybrush has seen better days, and when I went to replace it, this flattened thing is what I got.
My original one here had a conical shape to the bristles. This may work better. Who knows.
GW keeps on changing the design of their dry brushes. Personally, the black handled rounded ones didn't work as well as the blue handled round brushes. I've liked the latest design better so far.
Love thsoe wrath of kings models, shame im just not a fan of the system.
Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."
I made some hobby progress! This is an all metal dreadnaught that had been sitting in my basement unpainted for well over a decade. It feels good to get around to painting it after all these years!
I had a friend with that all-metal monstrosity sitting unpainted on a shelf for years collecting dust. One day he accidentally knocked it off the shelf, it tumbled down and landed right on his two middle toes. One ER visit later, it had broken one and messed up the other pretty bad. He had a horrible purple clown foot for a month and the middle toe is still crooked.
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What colour did you try?
"And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
This will happen (especially with bright colours like yellows). Ideally you should be applying multiple thin coats anyway (even with base paints).
Honestly if you don't need multiple coats for a base layer, your paint is probably not thin enough, in my experience.
I know that my painting skills aren't exactly top notch, and that yellow is a traditionally difficult color to get right, but it was still frustrating. I'm pretty sure the only way anyone makes yellow look decent when they are at my skill level is going to be using a spray/airbrush, and that's way more effort than I can justify since I'm only doing one model. I think I'm just going to strip it and try with a different color.
Yriel Yellow is a layer paint, meant to go over another similar colour. Averland Sunset is a base, which meant for basecoats. That should work better for you.
If you are having trouble getting good coverage over black, try mixing some brown into the first coat or two. That will help you get a better base to work from.
I put 5 small slices near the top edge of my round fist decals and they just lay right over. I've been tearing my hair out (lol, I'm bald!) and trying different things, such as cutting them prior to putting the decal on. This is the most slices I've put in, and I did it after they were already on the model, not before. And I put them all from the sides to the top of the decal.
Now maybe I should learn to play the game.....
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Hennypennyway, some WIP shots:
You may notice that the water cut outs don't match up exactly... this is because when I started, I thought that 8" squares go nicely into a 2'x2' board, and so obviously they must go nicely into a 3'x3' board as well. Maths! They're hard. They are now 6" squares.
One question for those who airbrush: Is it best to seal the mini once you have your base coat down? I can't imagine having to strip the entire mini because I slipped while detailing the shoulders, or applied too much wash and need to touch up.
It might just be the camera having trouble with the reflection through the metallics, but that model looks super super grainy.
Do you have any pics from a tabletop distance? Those are pretty good looking minis, but that seems to be the kind of paint scheme that comes together best when it's not 'never going to get that close IRL' blown up.
Six of one, half a dozen of the other. The camera isn't perfect, but it is a bit grainy. I'm hoping to find time to get a decent test now that I understand the airbrush a bit better, but it's fairly loud and my apartment walls are thin, and my free time is usualy at night.
Yep! It sure is! If you go back and look at my earlier pics (fuck you, Photobucket!) all my pictures were taken under a photobox with white background, under daylight bulbs. I had to do some pretty heavy digital adjustments to the lighting levels and contrast to get the resulting pics looking the same online as they did to the naked eye. I use the same daylight bulbs, but no lightbox, and I don't need to do any adjustments, just throw them right online.
Case in point - Trygon, photo box:
It didn't take herculean effort to get that right, but still, five minutes + of effort just to get a pic ready.
Venomthropes, macromat
There's a reason why photographers use backdrops. Aside from these needing no visual editing, the backdrop just makes the models look better.
GW keeps on changing the design of their dry brushes. Personally, the black handled rounded ones didn't work as well as the blue handled round brushes. I've liked the latest design better so far.
He looks like he's trapped in Carbonite.
Have a wing (nearly done)
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Furthermore...*blinks*
Uh so I finished a unit of vanguard over the weekend!
Honestly, it's a mess. Not beetles, that's for sure. If you squint and ignore a lot of stuff where the veins connect to the body, it kinda looks like Calliphora, or blowflies, which is probably what they were going for....but in all honesty it look more like a butterfly forewing, and I don't just mean because of the pointy shape of the wings.
But it's kind of a mess, and it's like a mash up of a bunch of different bugs
I guess that's the point???
.....why did you put this idea into my head
"how do we smooth out this mold?"
"I dunno, light it on fire?"
"genius"
I decided the about-to-be-deceased-marine should be a Minotaur, because serious, fuck the Minotaurs. If there's ever a loyalist chapter that's likely to end weapons hot against my own, might as well be them!
This is the first time I've ever tried to free hand a chapter symbol on a shoulder pad.
I think it turned out pretty good, considering I spent an hour with a 0000 brush, and a loupe trying to get it right! Fortunately, the battle damage and purity seals help cover up some flaws.
Nah, you should be fine now; the dreadnought’s soul is no longer calling for vengeance for its miserable unpainted state. Probably.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.