I've learned a lot about painting minis at this stage of my life compared to the past over the last week. With my two young kids finding a night to paint (both availability and energy) has been difficult, so this small squad took me like 2 weeks to finish, just because finding time was so scarce. Considering how many minis are in this 40k project I think I'm gonna need to find a way to paint the rest a bit quicker than these 5 took. The scheme is so dark that the highlights don't show all that much so sacrificing a little bit for speed prolly won't be a big deal. Maybe like base color and wash and then just do a little tidy up on face plus a drybrush or something... we'll see. Also I'm not a huge fan at the effort and result in painting black so I need to experiment and find a different way to do that. I've included the Prime I hacked up and pieced together, he also will have shoulder pads and a cape added. If anyone has any suggestions for a color that may look good to accent on the cape I'm all ears. Red jumps out as an obvious complimentary color first, but was looking for maybe something a bit different. Despite what seems like complaining I had a lot of fun with these and enjoy the scheme. I think it will look good on the table.
Also I spent some time while doing these on my true miniature love 15mm. I bought some new paints to try out and really enjoyed the Reaper Master Series, for now that will be my go to when I need to pick up more colors. Did the Tanned Skin triad on this figure and the consistency of the paint and finish just feels like it matches my painting style. I THINK I finally figured out a way that isn't completely insane to do a tartan at this scale. Was really happy how the whole mini turned out.
I have a bunch more 15mm adventurers for RPGs, then I'd like to start a 15mm Orc army for wargames.
The best looking and easiest blacks have barely any actual black in them. A dark grey basecoat, a grey highlight and a dark wash will make a great looking black, especially for the cloth and leather you’d be using it on with Guardsmen.
As far as capes, Dracula had the right idea. Make it dark on the outside and a nice complimentary color to your uniforms on the inside. An orangeish red, cream, or even purple.
I keep a PayPal account unlinked to any bank accounts that I try to use for the majority of my filthy hobby addictions. Selling old unwanted stuff is the only way to raise it. I like to think this is what keeps me from ending up on one of those hoarder shows with a home crammed full of plastic and a tiny sleeping area in the corner of a bathroom.
I keep a PayPal account unlinked to any bank accounts that I try to use for the majority of my filthy hobby addictions. Selling old unwanted stuff is the only way to raise it. I like to think this is what keeps me from ending up on one of those hoarder shows with a home crammed full of plastic and a tiny sleeping area in the corner of a bathroom.
I keep a PayPal account unlinked to any bank accounts that I try to use for the majority of my filthy hobby addictions. Selling old unwanted stuff is the only way to raise it. I like to think this is what keeps me from ending up on one of those hoarder shows with a home crammed full of plastic and a tiny sleeping area in the corner of a bathroom.
It's been around 5 months or so since I last did anything with this, but tonight I did the yellow and other fiddly bits, and finally its looking like an actual thing
Long ways to go, what with decals then weathering. So I guess we'll see if I can knock that out quicker. It's safe to say I seriously underestimated the work involved with painting these things. I learned a whole lot I hope I can apply to the others I have.
I've learned a lot about painting minis at this stage of my life compared to the past over the last week. With my two young kids finding a night to paint (both availability and energy) has been difficult, so this small squad took me like 2 weeks to finish, just because finding time was so scarce. Considering how many minis are in this 40k project I think I'm gonna need to find a way to paint the rest a bit quicker than these 5 took. The scheme is so dark that the highlights don't show all that much so sacrificing a little bit for speed prolly won't be a big deal. Maybe like base color and wash and then just do a little tidy up on face plus a drybrush or something... we'll see. Also I'm not a huge fan at the effort and result in painting black so I need to experiment and find a different way to do that. I've included the Prime I hacked up and pieced together, he also will have shoulder pads and a cape added. If anyone has any suggestions for a color that may look good to accent on the cape I'm all ears. Red jumps out as an obvious complimentary color first, but was looking for maybe something a bit different. Despite what seems like complaining I had a lot of fun with these and enjoy the scheme. I think it will look good on the table.
Also I spent some time while doing these on my true miniature love 15mm. I bought some new paints to try out and really enjoyed the Reaper Master Series, for now that will be my go to when I need to pick up more colors. Did the Tanned Skin triad on this figure and the consistency of the paint and finish just feels like it matches my painting style. I THINK I finally figured out a way that isn't completely insane to do a tartan at this scale. Was really happy how the whole mini turned out.
I have a bunch more 15mm adventurers for RPGs, then I'd like to start a 15mm Orc army for wargames.
I've thought about 15mm RPG stuff before but I have so much 28mm stuff from other games that it seems like I'd be making life harder for little gain by getting a bit of both instead of focusing on one.
The wife is working on her guard, and they have a big, black chest plate in the center of the model. It's definitely a spot that needs some sort of dramatic highlighting. I was thinking about suggesting a blue highlight on that chest piece, rather than the grey. I'm wondering if that'll look odd with a bunch of red on the mini though. Anyone have any color/black highlighting recommendations? I'm definitely a fan of dramatic edge highlighting on blacks for tabletop quality minis (competition showpieces get special stuff) but normally I'd just suggest a grey here.
What is this I don't even.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
A good recipe for shiny black is (using GW colors):
Base black
thick edge highlight Dark Reaper
thin edge highlight Thunderhawk Blue
Thinner edge highlight on the top edges Fenrisian Grey
After having Keen do a bunch of my BT, I can vouch he knows how to do a pretty black.
Everyday I wake up is the worst day of my life.
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BrodyThe WatchThe First ShoreRegistered Userregular
So I just got some Warmachine mini's, and I haven't ever painted mini's before. I've heard that craft acrylics aren't quite the thing for miniatures, but my wife has a large selection of them already. Should I try and find some of the cheaper model paints, or is it not going to be much of an improvement over the acrylics?
"I will write your name in the ruin of them. I will paint you across history in the color of their blood."
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Mini paints are a massive improvement over craft paints. Craft paints tend to be lightly pigmented (which means it takes a lot of coats for solid color), very thick (which means it will exacerbate every new painter's problems with not knowing how to thin their paints), and what little pigment they do have is very coarse (relatively speaking, dedicated mini paints have a very fine - if not liquid - pigment) which leads to an awful, chalky finish.
Points 1 & 2 work hand in hand for disastrous results.
That said, if you have them and are morally, geographically, or financially against buying mini paints then they can work. Just have a tub of Simple Green on hand to strip them and start over as you learn.
Mini paints are a massive improvement over craft paints. Craft paints tend to be lightly pigmented (which means it takes a lot of coats for solid color), very thick (which means it will exacerbate every new painter's problems with not knowing how to thin their paints), and what little pigment they do have is very coarse (relatively speaking, dedicated mini paints have a very fine - if not liquid - pigment) which leads to an awful, chalky finish.
Points 1 & 2 work hand in hand for disastrous results.
That said, if you have them and are morally, geographically, or financially against buying mini paints then they can work. Just have a tub of Simple Green on hand to strip them and start over as you learn.
Having just brought a baby home from the hospital (what was I thinking getting into war games), I'm mostly concerned with being able to do it frugally. I'm assuming I should prime them regardless of the paint used?
"I will write your name in the ruin of them. I will paint you across history in the color of their blood."
I've thought about 15mm RPG stuff before but I have so much 28mm stuff from other games that it seems like I'd be making life harder for little gain by getting a bit of both instead of focusing on one.
How's the variety of 15mm figures?
Short Answer: 15mm Fantasy is good, 15mm Sci Fi is really good.
Long Answer: So I chose 15mm because I actually enjoy painting them more than 28s, but the smaller footprint on the table ends up being a huge plus as well especially when playing an RPG. As far as variety goes I try to shop only in the US so that restricts me to basically 4 companies for most of my purchases - Splintered Light (has a great rpg and fantasy section), Khurasan (very LOTR style orcs and some cool undead), Battle Valor (Amazing sculpts, tend to be a bit chunkier and range is currently expanding as they are newer), and Rebel Minis (I don't have a ton of their stuff as I generally prefer the other companies but theres some cool sculpts there too). I am planning on breaking my rule and making a UK order because Copplestone's 15mm range is insanely good. If you open up all the 15mm figs in the UK you have an insane amount of variety and styles. Demonworld is a very Games Workshop-esque range of 15mm that is particularly popular for fantasy.
15mm will not be for everyone as some think it loses that epic feel for smaller skirmish stuff. Personally I don't get that feeling at all so I couldn't be happier doing the smallest skirmish or larger battles than 28s would allow with the same figures. I am only keeping some 28s for 40k because everyone else plays at that scale, if I could shrink all minis down to 15s, I would in a heartbeat.
I think I'm going to sit down and do some painting this weekend, but I hate some of the recent figures I painted a few months ago. What do you guys recommend for stripping paint off a mini?
I think I'm going to sit down and do some painting this weekend, but I hate some of the recent figures I painted a few months ago. What do you guys recommend for stripping paint off a mini?
You don’t need to dilute simple green, super clean, or any of those cleaners. Put it in a bucket, dunk the models, cover, and forget about it for a couple hours. Anything but the most gunked on of primers will come off with some scrubbing with a toothbrush and a toothpick in the recesses.
This is the only part that is frustrating. 99% of the model will clean, no problem like bada said, but be prepared for an intense amount of work getting everything out of some of the nooks and crannies.
I've thought about 15mm RPG stuff before but I have so much 28mm stuff from other games that it seems like I'd be making life harder for little gain by getting a bit of both instead of focusing on one.
How's the variety of 15mm figures?
Short Answer: 15mm Fantasy is good, 15mm Sci Fi is really good.
Long Answer: So I chose 15mm because I actually enjoy painting them more than 28s, but the smaller footprint on the table ends up being a huge plus as well especially when playing an RPG. As far as variety goes I try to shop only in the US so that restricts me to basically 4 companies for most of my purchases - Splintered Light (has a great rpg and fantasy section), Khurasan (very LOTR style orcs and some cool undead), Battle Valor (Amazing sculpts, tend to be a bit chunkier and range is currently expanding as they are newer), and Rebel Minis (I don't have a ton of their stuff as I generally prefer the other companies but theres some cool sculpts there too). I am planning on breaking my rule and making a UK order because Copplestone's 15mm range is insanely good. If you open up all the 15mm figs in the UK you have an insane amount of variety and styles. Demonworld is a very Games Workshop-esque range of 15mm that is particularly popular for fantasy.
15mm will not be for everyone as some think it loses that epic feel for smaller skirmish stuff. Personally I don't get that feeling at all so I couldn't be happier doing the smallest skirmish or larger battles than 28s would allow with the same figures. I am only keeping some 28s for 40k because everyone else plays at that scale, if I could shrink all minis down to 15s, I would in a heartbeat.
Man this post is awesome, I've been working on my own fantasy mass battle game, just for fun really, and the names of UK sites are exactly what I needed, I've been struggling to find some things and literally the first name you gave has them.
It's also reminded me I need to paint what I've built already.
(For those interested the idea is pretty simple, each faction is a fantasy version of a historical people. For example vikings with ice giants and dwarfs, samurai with oni and kappa, and Romans but heavily leaning on the raised by wolves angle, so dire wolves, werewolves that kind of thing.)
I found a free two hours yesterday and decided to go to my FLGS to paint the Bandai X-Wing model I assembled. I already bought the paints and brushes a while ago, but am completely new at painting stuff. The owner of the store told me to come by and he'd help me out and was working yesterday.
Unfortunately, he was also in the midst of the new FFG Lord of the 5 Rings game with a different customer. I sat down at a table with other guys painting W40K stuff and unpacked my things. It was then that I realized the owner wasn't going to be finishing anytime soon and I had no idea where to even start. The other guys at the table were nice, and clearly knew each other, but I didn't want to interrupt their painting time.
So I got out my phone and started googling how to paint. Yeah, that started me down a well of tabs explaining the terms I was running into and causing my head to swirl. After about an hour, I packed up my stuff and left without touching a single paint or brush.
I'm so pissed at myself for letting that sort of thing happen. I should have watched some videos before going and just found a place at home to paint. Given what I'm painting, it really shouldn't be that big a deal, even for a complete noob.
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Legends of Runeterra: MNCdover #moc
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Also I spent some time while doing these on my true miniature love 15mm. I bought some new paints to try out and really enjoyed the Reaper Master Series, for now that will be my go to when I need to pick up more colors. Did the Tanned Skin triad on this figure and the consistency of the paint and finish just feels like it matches my painting style. I THINK I finally figured out a way that isn't completely insane to do a tartan at this scale. Was really happy how the whole mini turned out.
I have a bunch more 15mm adventurers for RPGs, then I'd like to start a 15mm Orc army for wargames.
As far as capes, Dracula had the right idea. Make it dark on the outside and a nice complimentary color to your uniforms on the inside. An orangeish red, cream, or even purple.
Guess I'd better buy some Repulsors or something.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Cause I have an entire converted 2k point space wolves army I don't have the time to paint....
I'm not quite up to doing commissions yet but...
You never know.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I, on the other hand... don't do that.
Still working on that Land Raider inbetween running boxes to the post office though.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Seems normal?
Primer
Yeah. Specifically, this one. Plus a black shade wash.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
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Long ways to go, what with decals then weathering. So I guess we'll see if I can knock that out quicker. It's safe to say I seriously underestimated the work involved with painting these things. I learned a whole lot I hope I can apply to the others I have.
Also this is stressfull. Like woah.
...why was it in your mouth?
Komets' deadly legacy.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Edit: And on brush licking when I was younger I put the end of a brush in my mouth to hold it, not realising it had rolled into some super glue.
Glueing a brush to my tounge was not pleasant.
I've thought about 15mm RPG stuff before but I have so much 28mm stuff from other games that it seems like I'd be making life harder for little gain by getting a bit of both instead of focusing on one.
How's the variety of 15mm figures?
And I've siphoned off some of the profits from my model sales to buy a pair of Repulsor tanks. More painting and selling to come.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Nah, Maskol weathering. It's less messy in my experience.
I use hairspray weathering on smaller areas, like number stencils.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Do you just dab it on with a brush, spray over it, then rub it off?
I airbrush the browns, dab maskol with some wool scourer, airbrush the blues and then remove the maskol with blutac.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Shitty photo of the result*:
* I used Reaper instead of GW paints.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
The Monster Baru Cormorant - Seth Dickinson
Steam: Korvalain
Points 1 & 2 work hand in hand for disastrous results.
That said, if you have them and are morally, geographically, or financially against buying mini paints then they can work. Just have a tub of Simple Green on hand to strip them and start over as you learn.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Having just brought a baby home from the hospital (what was I thinking getting into war games), I'm mostly concerned with being able to do it frugally. I'm assuming I should prime them regardless of the paint used?
The Monster Baru Cormorant - Seth Dickinson
Steam: Korvalain
Short Answer: 15mm Fantasy is good, 15mm Sci Fi is really good.
Long Answer: So I chose 15mm because I actually enjoy painting them more than 28s, but the smaller footprint on the table ends up being a huge plus as well especially when playing an RPG. As far as variety goes I try to shop only in the US so that restricts me to basically 4 companies for most of my purchases - Splintered Light (has a great rpg and fantasy section), Khurasan (very LOTR style orcs and some cool undead), Battle Valor (Amazing sculpts, tend to be a bit chunkier and range is currently expanding as they are newer), and Rebel Minis (I don't have a ton of their stuff as I generally prefer the other companies but theres some cool sculpts there too). I am planning on breaking my rule and making a UK order because Copplestone's 15mm range is insanely good. If you open up all the 15mm figs in the UK you have an insane amount of variety and styles. Demonworld is a very Games Workshop-esque range of 15mm that is particularly popular for fantasy.
15mm will not be for everyone as some think it loses that epic feel for smaller skirmish stuff. Personally I don't get that feeling at all so I couldn't be happier doing the smallest skirmish or larger battles than 28s would allow with the same figures. I am only keeping some 28s for 40k because everyone else plays at that scale, if I could shrink all minis down to 15s, I would in a heartbeat.
Simple green.
Or what folks use to use. With most stuff the paint comes off but the model will be fine.
Nail polish remover can easily strip paint off metal models, do not use it on plastic models as they will melt
This is the only part that is frustrating. 99% of the model will clean, no problem like bada said, but be prepared for an intense amount of work getting everything out of some of the nooks and crannies.
Man this post is awesome, I've been working on my own fantasy mass battle game, just for fun really, and the names of UK sites are exactly what I needed, I've been struggling to find some things and literally the first name you gave has them.
It's also reminded me I need to paint what I've built already.
(For those interested the idea is pretty simple, each faction is a fantasy version of a historical people. For example vikings with ice giants and dwarfs, samurai with oni and kappa, and Romans but heavily leaning on the raised by wolves angle, so dire wolves, werewolves that kind of thing.)
I found a free two hours yesterday and decided to go to my FLGS to paint the Bandai X-Wing model I assembled. I already bought the paints and brushes a while ago, but am completely new at painting stuff. The owner of the store told me to come by and he'd help me out and was working yesterday.
Unfortunately, he was also in the midst of the new FFG Lord of the 5 Rings game with a different customer. I sat down at a table with other guys painting W40K stuff and unpacked my things. It was then that I realized the owner wasn't going to be finishing anytime soon and I had no idea where to even start. The other guys at the table were nice, and clearly knew each other, but I didn't want to interrupt their painting time.
So I got out my phone and started googling how to paint. Yeah, that started me down a well of tabs explaining the terms I was running into and causing my head to swirl. After about an hour, I packed up my stuff and left without touching a single paint or brush.
I'm so pissed at myself for letting that sort of thing happen. I should have watched some videos before going and just found a place at home to paint. Given what I'm painting, it really shouldn't be that big a deal, even for a complete noob.
Legends of Runeterra: MNCdover #moc
Switch ID: MNC Dover SW-1154-3107-1051
Steam ID
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