He said something about going to let me try it out sometime.
Apparently his has a really hefty pull weight though.
Being able to draw the bow and let it down smoothly would not be something I would want to learn with a high draw weight.
For compound the first time out for an average uninjured man i would recommend 50/60 lb bow to learn the basics safely.
There is a fair amount to learn to draw a bow back correctly, and let it back down without firing. A person doesn't want to figure that out while shaking and struggling with the equipment.
We might have to go to the local archery shop and just rent me one with a lower draw weight then.
They have a range and classes too.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
He said something about going to let me try it out sometime.
Apparently his has a really hefty pull weight though.
The whole point of compounds is that the further you pull them back the less effort it takes. Most modern compounds have a "let off" of around 60-70 percent, so a compound with a 70 pound draw weight and a 60% let off only requires the same holding strength as a 28 pound recurve. Then when you release the string, the cam action increasing the force delivered to the arrow results in extremely high velocities, which is why >300ft/s is not a big deal for a quality modern compound shooting carbon fibre arrows.
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Also, if you use correct form then your bow arm is pretty much locked out solid and your drawing arm is mostly using your lats and biceps to draw the string, so high draw weights aren't really a big deal, because both those muscle groups are quite powerful even if they're not particularly developed.
He said something about going to let me try it out sometime.
Apparently his has a really hefty pull weight though.
Being able to draw the bow and let it down smoothly would not be something I would want to learn with a high draw weight.
For compound the first time out for an average uninjured man i would recommend 50/60 lb bow to learn the basics safely.
There is a fair amount to learn to draw a bow back correctly, and let it back down without firing. A person doesn't want to figure that out while shaking and struggling with the equipment.
We might have to go to the local archery shop and just rent me one with a lower draw weight then.
They have a range and classes too.
Most places will just let you use a bow free of charge if you're a newbie trying out bows to see what feels right.
Call ahead to a shop with a range and find out when they're normally slow and go rent some range time and let them know you need training. A good shop will be more than glad to teach someone the basics, especially if there is a potential sale on the line.
most important rule for drawing a bow is you should be able to draw the bow back smoothly while pointed at the target, not at the ground or sky. Either of those two are very dangerous practices to learn.
The range I used to go to had a few arrows stuck in the ceiling from it. They made a rule about it and started kicking people out for improperly drawing bows back.
Yeah, I would definitely suggest learning the basic form on a lower weight, if possible
I'm a scrawny person, so 70 pounds with arms, shoulders and back is a bit much for me
And you have to hold your whole draw weight! Us compound folks got it easy. We just have to pull it pack, then we can luxuriate in only having to hold back around 15lbs.
30 lbs is still probably a lot of draw weight for a beginner anyways.
Sure an average adult male should be able to handle 45-50 lbs on a recurve, but unless you've done it a lot you're going to struggle (also it'll be hard to string the bow).
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
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BroloBroseidonLord of the BroceanRegistered Userregular
these toys are quite a bit of fun and surprisingly powerful/accurate
they can actually be a little bit too powerful for indoor archery tag, given that they can smash windows/lightbulbs/monitors
And remember, Ollie Queen has a 100lb. draw weight (in the comics).
Are they superhuman? (I don't follow comics). I've shot a 100lb compound and they are a fucker to draw, and they beat you up pretty good. They're pretty much for shooting rhinos and elephants. I know some folks who have used them for moose, but an 80lb bow will get the job done.
There's dudes on Instagram who shoot 100 pound recurves and longbows
English longbows back in the Agincourt/Crecy era were around 100 pounds, I think
There's also a technique with releasing almost instantly after you hit your anchor point, which is what I'm hoping to do eventually
You aim a sightless bow as you draw it, ideally
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Munkus BeaverYou don't have to attend every argument you are invited to.Philosophy: Stoicism. Politics: Democratic SocialistRegistered User, ClubPAregular
And remember, Ollie Queen has a 100lb. draw weight (in the comics).
Are they superhuman? (I don't follow comics). I've shot a 100lb compound and they are a fucker to draw, and they beat you up pretty good. They're pretty much for shooting rhinos and elephants. I know some folks who have used them for moose, but an 80lb bow will get the job done.
Hawkeye's is 250 lbs.
Humor can be dissected as a frog can, but dies in the process.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
There's dudes on Instagram who shoot 100 pound recurves and longbows
English longbows back in the Agincourt/Crecy era were around 100 pounds, I think
There's also a technique with releasing almost instantly after you hit your anchor point, which is what I'm hoping to do eventually
You aim a sightless bow as you draw it, ideally
My buddy who does Olympic recurve has a clicker on his bow, so yea, he gets to about 90% draw, aims, and pulls back and right at the same place every time the clicker goes off (its set on the arrow) and he releases. He has gotten pretty good at aiming quickly.
250lbs is insane! Do they ever say what its made of in the comics, like vibranium or something? I fucking love the crazy shit in comics.
Does olympic level archery have restrictions on the bow types and technology that you can use?
Yes, specifically you have to use a recurve bow, but those bows are at the height of recurve technology. I'm fairly sure there are some restrictions on arrows, limb material and possibly riser material as well. I wouldn't be surprised anyways.
I found this handy graphic of an olympic style bow!
Just popped in this thread because I saw the word "Clint" on my phone as a different word that starts with a C and ends in nt. I might be the only one, though.
I'm a scrawny adult, lots of people suggest adults starting at 35 pounds
A heavy draw weight can create bad habits if you don't have your form all figured out
I know literally nothing about archery except $5 is apparently my price point for sport entry. There is a hunting shop nearby, I guess I could hit it sometime!
so what kind of string do I buy? Or should I track down a shop and take the bow there to make sure it doesn't have some hidden flaw that will snap the bow and put an arrow in my foot?
so what kind of string do I buy? Or should I track down a shop and take the bow there to make sure it doesn't have some hidden flaw that will snap the bow and put an arrow in my foot?
Take it to a shop that is knowledgeable about recurves. A bow that old could have cracks or other damage you wouldn't know how to look for. You don't want a bow to explode at full draw. It at best is scary as shit and worst you get seriously injured/blinded.
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Back when I worked at a bow manufacturer you could hear a bow blow up all the way across the factory floor. Super loud. 99% were from someone loading it into a press incorrectly and over compressing a limb.
Most archery ranges and stores have beginner packages where you get a complete bow, half a dozen arrows, stuff like a quiver and wristguard, and a target for a package deal of a couple of hundred dollars. See if you can talk your way into a deal like that MINUS the bow, because that's easily the big-dollar item in the package.
When you're starting out there's no point whatsoever in buying the expensive lightweight carbon arrows in woodland camouflage that are like $35 each, what you want are the ultra cheap aluminium ones in bright neon colours to help you find them when you (inevitably) miss a target. When the arrows are $5 each you don't really give a fuck if you bend or lose one, because hell it was $5.
Yeah, I was looking at their prices and just string, a stringer, armguard, and leather shooting glove was $100
That was without arrows and brass thingys on the string that I've never heard of before
Think of the money you saved on the bow
My bow was $300, I think, then I spent $150 on the first round of arrows and accessories, and I'm addicted or whatever, so I've probably spent another $300 since then
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Yeah, I was looking at their prices and just string, a stringer, armguard, and leather shooting glove was $100
That was without arrows and brass thingys on the string that I've never heard of before
Think of the money you saved on the bow
My bow was $300, I think, then I spent $150 on the first round of arrows and accessories, and I'm addicted or whatever, so I've probably spent another $300 since then
Thats about the starting price for a good compound package too.
Also for compounds a good time to buy is right after hunting season (in the US). New bows are usually released leading up to or at the Archery Trade Association show in January, so private parties and pro-shops will usually want to get rid of their old stuff in preparation. Hunters especially LOVE to upgrade their bows every year, even when the gains are negligible, and you can pick up a high quality bow with low shots for a song as long as you're ok with a camo bow.
Getting in with the local competition scene (indoor/outdoor/3d) can be another great place to score deals. I've been offered $1000 retail bows for $500 that are a year old because I was in that group and they knew I was a decent guy and not a jackass. A lot of archers are really into helping other archers succeed, and you can get some good deals that way. Just make sure to pay it forward when you upgrade later on.
There is pretty much never a reason to buy a high end bow (of any kind) new, unless you absolutely have to have the latest and greatest, and there isn't really a reason to besides "oooh shiny!" which I won't lie, is a pretty strong draw.
Hey, so it's been an age, but I finally assembled an arrow, and figured out how my set-up works.
My parents bought me a fletching jig for my birthday. I bought already nocked aluminium shafts, arrow wraps, fletchings, glue, and adhesive tape.
I bought two colors of fletchings, blue and orange, the idea being to go with an orange wraps, two orange feathers and one blue.
The orange wrap doesn't match the orange fletching, and that would drive me insane, so I went with a four fletchings at 90 degree style.
I'm not sure if it will work with my bow set up, as I shoot off the shelf. I'll try it tonight or tomorrow morning.
If it does, great, I'll go with orange wraps and blue fletchings. If it doesn't, I'll probably omit the wraps. They're a completely cosmetic thing, maybe they would make it easier to find an arrow that missed the target, maybe not.
Anyway, it was fun, if a bit stressful, as I am a clumsy handed fool.
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We might have to go to the local archery shop and just rent me one with a lower draw weight then.
They have a range and classes too.
The whole point of compounds is that the further you pull them back the less effort it takes. Most modern compounds have a "let off" of around 60-70 percent, so a compound with a 70 pound draw weight and a 60% let off only requires the same holding strength as a 28 pound recurve. Then when you release the string, the cam action increasing the force delivered to the arrow results in extremely high velocities, which is why >300ft/s is not a big deal for a quality modern compound shooting carbon fibre arrows.
I'll have to look into it sometime next month then.
Maybe sometime around my birthday him and I will go to the local archery range and give it a try. I'll have to rent safety gear anyway I'm sure.
Most places will just let you use a bow free of charge if you're a newbie trying out bows to see what feels right.
Call ahead to a shop with a range and find out when they're normally slow and go rent some range time and let them know you need training. A good shop will be more than glad to teach someone the basics, especially if there is a potential sale on the line.
most important rule for drawing a bow is you should be able to draw the bow back smoothly while pointed at the target, not at the ground or sky. Either of those two are very dangerous practices to learn.
The range I used to go to had a few arrows stuck in the ceiling from it. They made a rule about it and started kicking people out for improperly drawing bows back.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I'm a scrawny person, so 70 pounds with arms, shoulders and back is a bit much for me
And you have to hold your whole draw weight! Us compound folks got it easy. We just have to pull it pack, then we can luxuriate in only having to hold back around 15lbs.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Sure an average adult male should be able to handle 45-50 lbs on a recurve, but unless you've done it a lot you're going to struggle (also it'll be hard to string the bow).
these toys are quite a bit of fun and surprisingly powerful/accurate
they can actually be a little bit too powerful for indoor archery tag, given that they can smash windows/lightbulbs/monitors
Are they superhuman? (I don't follow comics). I've shot a 100lb compound and they are a fucker to draw, and they beat you up pretty good. They're pretty much for shooting rhinos and elephants. I know some folks who have used them for moose, but an 80lb bow will get the job done.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
English longbows back in the Agincourt/Crecy era were around 100 pounds, I think
There's also a technique with releasing almost instantly after you hit your anchor point, which is what I'm hoping to do eventually
You aim a sightless bow as you draw it, ideally
Hawkeye's is 250 lbs.
My buddy who does Olympic recurve has a clicker on his bow, so yea, he gets to about 90% draw, aims, and pulls back and right at the same place every time the clicker goes off (its set on the arrow) and he releases. He has gotten pretty good at aiming quickly.
250lbs is insane! Do they ever say what its made of in the comics, like vibranium or something? I fucking love the crazy shit in comics.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Yes, specifically you have to use a recurve bow, but those bows are at the height of recurve technology. I'm fairly sure there are some restrictions on arrows, limb material and possibly riser material as well. I wouldn't be surprised anyways.
I found this handy graphic of an olympic style bow!
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Kids should love it!
Is the string supposed to look like this?
edit: apparently it was made in 1968
You need a new string
Are there any archery shops around you?
That's actually a pretty heavy draw weight
48 pounds at 28 inches
My bow is 45 at 28
I'm a scrawny adult, lots of people suggest adults starting at 35 pounds
A heavy draw weight can create bad habits if you don't have your form all figured out
I know literally nothing about archery except $5 is apparently my price point for sport entry. There is a hunting shop nearby, I guess I could hit it sometime!
so what kind of string do I buy? Or should I track down a shop and take the bow there to make sure it doesn't have some hidden flaw that will snap the bow and put an arrow in my foot?
Take it to a shop that is knowledgeable about recurves. A bow that old could have cracks or other damage you wouldn't know how to look for. You don't want a bow to explode at full draw. It at best is scary as shit and worst you get seriously injured/blinded.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Even a shop that focuses on compound will know a person
Google your location and archery
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Most archery ranges and stores have beginner packages where you get a complete bow, half a dozen arrows, stuff like a quiver and wristguard, and a target for a package deal of a couple of hundred dollars. See if you can talk your way into a deal like that MINUS the bow, because that's easily the big-dollar item in the package.
When you're starting out there's no point whatsoever in buying the expensive lightweight carbon arrows in woodland camouflage that are like $35 each, what you want are the ultra cheap aluminium ones in bright neon colours to help you find them when you (inevitably) miss a target. When the arrows are $5 each you don't really give a fuck if you bend or lose one, because hell it was $5.
That was without arrows and brass thingys on the string that I've never heard of before
Those are called brass thingys
Think of the money you saved on the bow
My bow was $300, I think, then I spent $150 on the first round of arrows and accessories, and I'm addicted or whatever, so I've probably spent another $300 since then
Thats about the starting price for a good compound package too.
Also for compounds a good time to buy is right after hunting season (in the US). New bows are usually released leading up to or at the Archery Trade Association show in January, so private parties and pro-shops will usually want to get rid of their old stuff in preparation. Hunters especially LOVE to upgrade their bows every year, even when the gains are negligible, and you can pick up a high quality bow with low shots for a song as long as you're ok with a camo bow.
Getting in with the local competition scene (indoor/outdoor/3d) can be another great place to score deals. I've been offered $1000 retail bows for $500 that are a year old because I was in that group and they knew I was a decent guy and not a jackass. A lot of archers are really into helping other archers succeed, and you can get some good deals that way. Just make sure to pay it forward when you upgrade later on.
There is pretty much never a reason to buy a high end bow (of any kind) new, unless you absolutely have to have the latest and greatest, and there isn't really a reason to besides "oooh shiny!" which I won't lie, is a pretty strong draw.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
My parents bought me a fletching jig for my birthday. I bought already nocked aluminium shafts, arrow wraps, fletchings, glue, and adhesive tape.
I bought two colors of fletchings, blue and orange, the idea being to go with an orange wraps, two orange feathers and one blue.
The orange wrap doesn't match the orange fletching, and that would drive me insane, so I went with a four fletchings at 90 degree style.
I'm not sure if it will work with my bow set up, as I shoot off the shelf. I'll try it tonight or tomorrow morning.
If it does, great, I'll go with orange wraps and blue fletchings. If it doesn't, I'll probably omit the wraps. They're a completely cosmetic thing, maybe they would make it easier to find an arrow that missed the target, maybe not.
Anyway, it was fun, if a bit stressful, as I am a clumsy handed fool.
ahh, that might be it, I'm used to vanes with the more fat, rounded back ends.
The fletchings seem to work ok.