Pretty sure it's the MG, but I'm mostly going on the white hands.
Yup, MG. real grade still intimidates me, I already don’t know that I like the small bits of MG kits and the idea of an even smaller version with that detail seems... exhausting
Pretty sure it's the MG, but I'm mostly going on the white hands.
Yup, MG. real grade still intimidates me, I already don’t know that I like the small bits of MG kits and the idea of an even smaller version with that detail seems... exhausting
It can be exhausting, but they're also a blast to put together. Just have to space the construction out over a couple of weeks or a month, wouldn't want to try doing it in one sitting.
Can't speak for everyone, but assembling tons of tiny bits to well detailed instructions is relaxing to me, and RGs have that in spades.
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turtleantGunpla Dadis the best.Registered Userregular
I've been to busy to keep up with gunpla news and it turns out like all the kits I was interested in this fall are p-bandai. Womp womp.
turtleant on
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CorporateLogoThe toilet knowshow I feelRegistered Userregular
Glad you mentioned P-Bandai, I just now learned they're releasing a HG Zaku Cannon next year
Do not have a cow, mortal.
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
There are so many P-Bandai that I wish were just lil' option part packs. Like I really want that Geara Zulu, but it's just the Geara Doga kit with a couple pieces added on to give it the Sinanju style sleeves and a new weapon. If it was available as a $10 add on to an easily available kit, I'd be all over it. But as is, ehhh is too much cash for not enough new stuff.
The one P-Bandai kit I did cave on (and still haven't built cause I'm terrified of ruining it...) is the Banshee Norn, which did feel like enough substantial new stuff to justify the P-Bandai importing cost.
Oh brilliant
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CorporateLogoThe toilet knowshow I feelRegistered Userregular
H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
edited October 2017
[pictures from the twitter chain CorporateLogo linked above]
Cool! Those aren't kits, right? Just scratch built from other lego sets?
Also, what is this and where is it from?
Edit: Nevermind that last question, found it via MAHQ.
It's the GH-001 Grimoire from Reconquista apparently:
I... kinda like the blockier, wide-shouldered look of the lego's to the real thing? I was expecting it to look sort of like a cross between the Tieren from 00 and the Shiden Custom from Iron-Blooded Orphans.
I held a completed kit in my hands and it was beautiful. Ended up picking up a futuristic hover vw-bus, and i'm tempted to pick up a space tuk tuk and space ramen truck from a different place
thought some folks here might be interested in this, a kind of beginner's guide website (that i have referenced pretty frequently, myself) is looking for other writers/reviewers to do short pieces
I'm always so happy to see these kits and find out they are 1/144. I know bigger is better and love my couple mgs, but I'm cheap. And like small projects that i finish.
So I've never touched any Gunpla before and I really enjoyed IBO, I was walking past the local hobby shop and decided to impulse buy myself some giant robots.... Long story short this happened. I'm pretty happy with how they turned out for my first attempt at Gunpla. The absurd size of the sword mace on the Barbatos makes it a nightmare to try to pose.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Definitely a great job for your first set of kits~
That reminds me. My scopedog still has some marks where I didn't remove it very well from the runner. I wonder what the best way to clean that up a bit would be? An exacto knife? Some fine grit sandpaper? Some olive drab paint?
Hey gunpla thread! I have found myself in Okinawa for 3 months due to my job. As such, I went out to a local model shop and bought a kit. Please forgive the hotel-room quality lighting and backdrop, but here's my assembled Gundam Local Type (NA Type).
That reminds me. My scopedog still has some marks where I didn't remove it very well from the runner. I wonder what the best way to clean that up a bit would be? An exacto knife? Some fine grit sandpaper? Some olive drab paint?
Paint fixes many sins. Fine sand paper will be ok if you come back after with a matte finish, as you just aren't sanding it back to molded plastic shiny. Depends on plastic type, I just use snips further away from the piece on the runner, trim down closer with snips, then use an exacto for the last bit, generally makes it not too noticeable unless you are looking for it. But the more brittle blacks and things will still deform and show up lighter.
That reminds me. My scopedog still has some marks where I didn't remove it very well from the runner. I wonder what the best way to clean that up a bit would be? An exacto knife? Some fine grit sandpaper? Some olive drab paint?
The options typically depend on how the marks look. If the nub is still above the plastic of the part, you can sand it down and then use one of those finger nail buffing sticks to restore the shinyness.
If it's only a moderate blemish, pressing down with your fingernail on the nub mark can restore most if not all of the original plastic color.
You can always repaint the kit, which hides a lot of sins.
If the nub mark has left a cavity and you want a smooth finished look, you have to fill in the pore with some kind of a gap filler like Tamiya White Putty or Green Stuff, then sand it back down, then paint the piece. Generally this is only done if you want to paint the entire piece.
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miscellaneousinsanitygrass grows, birds fly, sun shines,and brother, i hurt peopleRegistered Userregular
Posts
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/214416/mech-fight/p1?new=1
Well, yours does have pictures and a poll.
I can't compete with that.
Also, no excuse for not having done it sooner since I've been off work for 3 hours.
Yup, MG. real grade still intimidates me, I already don’t know that I like the small bits of MG kits and the idea of an even smaller version with that detail seems... exhausting
It can be exhausting, but they're also a blast to put together. Just have to space the construction out over a couple of weeks or a month, wouldn't want to try doing it in one sitting.
Can't speak for everyone, but assembling tons of tiny bits to well detailed instructions is relaxing to me, and RGs have that in spades.
I've been to busy to keep up with gunpla news and it turns out like all the kits I was interested in this fall are p-bandai. Womp womp.
The one P-Bandai kit I did cave on (and still haven't built cause I'm terrified of ruining it...) is the Banshee Norn, which did feel like enough substantial new stuff to justify the P-Bandai importing cost.
Cool! Those aren't kits, right? Just scratch built from other lego sets?
Also, what is this and where is it from?
Edit: Nevermind that last question, found it via MAHQ.
I... kinda like the blockier, wide-shouldered look of the lego's to the real thing? I was expecting it to look sort of like a cross between the Tieren from 00 and the Shiden Custom from Iron-Blooded Orphans.
Steam ID: Obos Vent: Obos
Steam // Secret Satan
I picked up a few small ones, but also look at this
https://miniaturescenery.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=114
Steam // Secret Satan
also "y2k peregrine", lmao
Steam // Secret Satan
Steam // Secret Satan
Fuck
yes
I'm always so happy to see these kits and find out they are 1/144. I know bigger is better and love my couple mgs, but I'm cheap. And like small projects that i finish.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Paint fixes many sins. Fine sand paper will be ok if you come back after with a matte finish, as you just aren't sanding it back to molded plastic shiny. Depends on plastic type, I just use snips further away from the piece on the runner, trim down closer with snips, then use an exacto for the last bit, generally makes it not too noticeable unless you are looking for it. But the more brittle blacks and things will still deform and show up lighter.
The options typically depend on how the marks look. If the nub is still above the plastic of the part, you can sand it down and then use one of those finger nail buffing sticks to restore the shinyness.
If it's only a moderate blemish, pressing down with your fingernail on the nub mark can restore most if not all of the original plastic color.
You can always repaint the kit, which hides a lot of sins.
If the nub mark has left a cavity and you want a smooth finished look, you have to fill in the pore with some kind of a gap filler like Tamiya White Putty or Green Stuff, then sand it back down, then paint the piece. Generally this is only done if you want to paint the entire piece.
all my yens
Steam
Steam