So before stripping the whole thing and starting over, I decided to smooth out the weathering to see how it would look before deciding to drybrush the stone.
I still can't tell if it looks ok or not. I think the stone needs to start darker and have the main lighter tone here be the couple stones I pick out instead.
A highlight drybrush on the stone is only going to lighten it, and I think it would cause a greater clash in colors than the darker stone being drybrushed. What do you guys think?
I'd just throw a nice dark wash over the whole thing and hope for the best. But I'm a lazy painter.
What you see is the result of 'uhg fuck it' to date. It's kind of a nice piece and I'm thinking it just needs a strip and serious attempt. I'm gonna try another wash (I did the rest of my earthshade on it, heavily (you can see the lazy sploches), but maybe a nuln oil hit and another controlled earthshade or two. Should I nuln oil the roof too? I would think it wouldn't look right at the end.
See this beautiful example? It's got some nice dark shading (or pollution, who knows). What I'm saying is the roof could use some shadows. So go buck nutty with the wash. Just don't let it clump up on the flat surfaces. I Hinkley that's the main problem your brown has. Put on a nice dark coat, let it get in the cracks, but brush it over the surfaces to get a hint on it. If it comes out weird, do one more coat. If that looks like crap, strip and start over. Only thing you're losing is time.
I'm lazy in the fact I tend to wash an entire model in 1 shade to blend it all together. Kinda evens out the extremes.
Doing it by hand instead of airbrush is a big ol’ pain though. Stuff clumps up almost immediately on the brush, so it’s multiple quick layers, rinse, wait for it to dry, and repeat.
Yeah, there’s Tamiya clear colors of yellow, green, red, orange, blue, and a smoky gray one off the top of my head.
Be warned this stuff is basically like painting with blood. It congeals very quickly, needs to be thinned, and should be done either by airbrush or in multiple thin layers to keep it from drying clumpy.
Yeah, there’s Tamiya clear colors of yellow, green, red, orange, blue, and a smoky gray one off the top of my head.
Be warned this stuff is basically like painting with blood. It congeals very quickly, needs to be thinned, and should be done either by airbrush or in multiple thin layers to keep it from drying clumpy.
Seems fitting for Khorne.
Any suggested paint consistencies for Slaanesh?
You generally go either clumped on coats for gross chunky slime and bloody gore, or thin coats over metallics for glossy sports car armor panels. I’d imagine Slaanesh going more for the second.
Any really smooth gloss metals on a Forgeworld model were probably done with airbrushed clears, so check those out and see which color and base would work for you.
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Thought I'd post my latest two models here. Only one more librarian to go...
Had some spare time watching streams and took a crack at weathering the weathering
:
Came out looking much better! I applied a good layer of nuln oil to the stone parts of the building and it darkened up quite nicely too. Thanks for the advice everyone!
Had some spare time watching streams and took a crack at weathering the weathering
:
Came out looking much better! I applied a good layer of nuln oil to the stone parts of the building and it darkened up quite nicely too. Thanks for the advice everyone!
That looks great!
Maybe try to hit the rivets with the same 'dirt' wash you used for the streaking.
I love that something as simple as edging can transform a paint job.
Finished said edging on first Repulsor, almost done on the Rhino.
Also I've got a Trygon Prime sub assembled and ready for painting once the gap-filling putty has dried. Figure I'll test out the new scheme and enter this months WH40K painting competition with it.
Kneel on
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Had some spare time watching streams and took a crack at weathering the weathering
:
Came out looking much better! I applied a good layer of nuln oil to the stone parts of the building and it darkened up quite nicely too. Thanks for the advice everyone!
With extra life going on, I really enjoy painting while watching streams. I am getting so much done I love it.
I needed a nurgling proxy for a stupidly large skirmish warband, and being a pestilens player in AoS gives me access to a ton of tiny plague rats. Whipped this out pretty quickly. It's definitely not showpiece quality, but it's recognizeable on the table:
I'm currently working on a putrid blightking proxy, as I needed another, and I'm not going to pay 12-15$ on ebay for a single model's bits. So I tore into the sprues and grabbed a heavy infantry from khorne and kitbashed the one closest to nurgle. I'm out of earthshade at the moment, and this yellow is too strong, I'm hoping a brown wash will tone it down a bit. I also need to highlight all the purple parts.
Probiscus greenstuffed to the arm socket for tenticles came out better than I thought they would, and its a head from a plague drone(a bit too big but it looks fine in person) I don't like the red eyes but I will live with it.
Tried mixing Tamiya Clear with some mix to apply as a wash to the killdozer, not sure if I should apply another shade over it. Still a nice effect on all the skulls. Also, gloss nuln oil is magic in a crappy plastic pot when liberally slobbered all over gold.
*edit* Also also, I need to stop using Dakkadakka as a host site, it’s got godawful picture quality.
The lubber grasshopper scheme and the Atlantic crab scheme have both gone sideways and I'm so disappointed with the results that I didn't even get a picture before chuckling the models into the methylated spirits.
This is incredibly disheartening, and combined with acutely regretting selling my stuff, this gland/jaw infection and a serious lack of sleep (it's 3:50am) I am feeling utterly defeatist about the whole thing.
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I aggressively sell off my painted stuff to fund more models, and there’s always regret, especially if I end up not even liking the new stuff. I find it helps to maintain contacts with the people you sell your guys to, just so you can get occasional updates on your old models and how they’re doing. It helps me anyway, and it’s cool to see what people do to expand on what I’ve made.
What about the schemes weren't working?
Painting well realized organic schemes seems like a whole crazy can of worms. There's a LOT more going on that just picking the right colours, like a vehicle (or standard tyranid) pattern.
What about the schemes weren't working?
Painting well realized organic schemes seems like a whole crazy can of worms. There's a LOT more going on that just picking the right colours, like a vehicle (or standard tyranid) pattern.
I've overthought it and had no patience with myself. Pretty lousy mix.
Gonna grab few gaunts later/tomorrow and just dick around with colour combinations. After all, that's how I landed on the green/brown scheme in the first place.
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So I've used tamiya clear red a few times, most recently on some word bearers. I've only ever used it over gold though. People who have used it more, if I was to say drybrush a very bright silver onto the gold and then layer tamiya clear would I get a clear difference in colour on the final read?
I'm thinking about maybe doing it on some hive fleet kraken to give the carapace like a beetle type look
Yeah, with clear paints all your highlights and shades need to come first anyway, you can’t really do much more over them. And a light silver is generally the highlight for gold.
If you’re going for an iridescent look though, there’s specific color-changing paints you can try instead, though it will be difficult to make them look right without an airbrush to achieve the mirror sheen effect needed. But either way, you definitely want a gloss black undercoat to bring a lustrous shine to the finished product.
Yeah, with clear paints all your highlights and shades need to come first anyway, you can’t really do much more over them. And a light silver is generally the highlight for gold.
If you’re going for an iridescent look though, there’s specific color-changing paints you can try instead, though it will be difficult to make them look right without an airbrush to achieve the mirror sheen effect needed. But either way, you definitely want a gloss black undercoat to bring a lustrous shine to the finished product.
I'm thinking about doing the normal golds I do and the drybrush a bright silver on the edges of the carapace to hopefully get a kind of natural looking variation. I'm trying to achieve the normal kraken look but with a shine.
War jack resculpts that don’t look like chunky 90’s starter box GW plastics? Sign me up.
the other cryx jack resculpts are looking pretty nice too (more in the style of their latest Seether/Inflictor kit)
Many of them still require you to glue up the two halves of the torso, which is annoying because it means you'll probably need to fill gaps, but they're so light and cleanly detailed it's worth it
When you see Duncan use a beige color for a weird drybrush on stone, so you turn to yoru painting station and go 'eh this is vaguely beige im terrible at colors I should double check' and you spend 30 minutes looking for a cross reference chart, end up grabbing a picture from GW of the paint color, and throwing it into reapers paint match, to find out its exactly the bottle you are holding.
When you see Duncan use a beige color for a weird drybrush on stone, so you turn to yoru painting station and go 'eh this is vaguely beige im terrible at colors I should double check' and you spend 30 minutes looking for a cross reference chart, end up grabbing a picture from GW of the paint color, and throwing it into reapers paint match, to find out its exactly the bottle you are holding.
Feels pretty good.
My mind immediately jumped to the colour 'rucksack tan'.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
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I bought shadespire, anyone got any cool stormcast themes up their sleeve? I am not a fan of the gold look. Was thinking maybe a darker metal? Also on the hunt for non red khorne stuff.
so, i've picked up a 2nd hand copy of heroquest as an xmas present for my boy. it is deliberately in bad condition (good examples cost a fortune). this does mean i have the fun of swapping missing/ broken minis with randomly sourced replacements. i already have some nicely painted skeletons of my own and i can get 4 snap fit orcs for next to nothing from GW. fimir cost a fortune, so i may attempt to give them some new weapons. there are some salvageable minis with bad paint jobs in there though. any suggestions on what would work well for stripping them?
I bought shadespire, anyone got any cool stormcast themes up their sleeve? I am not a fan of the gold look. Was thinking maybe a darker metal? Also on the hunt for non red khorne stuff.
I saw someone use the technical oxide to make them like 'lost souls' who have been around so long their armor grew corrosion on them, and they almost looked like statues, it was pretty cool looking. They have a pretty good design for 2 color setup, so I would say just find 2 complimentary colors and go to town.
I've started stripping paint off the Heroquest minis with some Dettol. Things i have learned: 1/ do it outside, 2/ wear gloves. My hands are all burny and I’ve spent ages cleaning fine paint flecks off every surface in the bathroom. Fuck knows what they’d put on that mummy. Enamel or some similar heresy.
Fixing all the broken weapons looks like a bit of a pain. I think it's gonna come down to drilling holes in the tops of the fists, then putting shaved down handles into the holes if I want anything like stability.
I bought shadespire, anyone got any cool stormcast themes up their sleeve? I am not a fan of the gold look. Was thinking maybe a darker metal? Also on the hunt for non red khorne stuff.
I saw someone use the technical oxide to make them like 'lost souls' who have been around so long their armor grew corrosion on them, and they almost looked like statues, it was pretty cool looking. They have a pretty good design for 2 color setup, so I would say just find 2 complimentary colors and go to town.
Someone on dakka made some cool-looking "stonecast eternals" that were living statues:
Oh dear. I think I’m losing my grip on my miniatures hoard. I can’t find the Mantic goblin heroes I’d swear I own anywhere, but I keep finding all sorts of random stuff I had no idea I owned.
Why did I at some point feel the need to Ebay purchase a single Eldar Swooping Hawk? How long have I had this classic Skaven Blood Bowl team?
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
edited November 2017
That reminds me I really need to finish painting my Abyssal Dwarfs. I sort of liked the brass/bronze armor look I went with on the one I did but I could see it being a bit... excessive. I dunno.
Edit: could definitely get the "Fiery beard" effect better though
Lord_Asmodeus on
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
I'm going back to my old Tyranid colours (brown/green with bone/yellow/red accents).
Gonna change things up a little - ie try to do something more interesting with the carapace, but nothing else I've tried even comes close to how striking Hive Fleet Strigoi looks.
So there. I'll finish this Trygon once I'm feeling better, clear out the tanks for eBay and then get to work on this diorama.
Kneel on
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Posts
https://i.pinimg.com/736x/91/02/f0/9102f0a8b7a486b6031995becf88579f--copper-roof-roof-top.jpg
See this beautiful example? It's got some nice dark shading (or pollution, who knows). What I'm saying is the roof could use some shadows. So go buck nutty with the wash. Just don't let it clump up on the flat surfaces. I Hinkley that's the main problem your brown has. Put on a nice dark coat, let it get in the cracks, but brush it over the surfaces to get a hint on it. If it comes out weird, do one more coat. If that looks like crap, strip and start over. Only thing you're losing is time.
I'm lazy in the fact I tend to wash an entire model in 1 shade to blend it all together. Kinda evens out the extremes.
Doing it by hand instead of airbrush is a big ol’ pain though. Stuff clumps up almost immediately on the brush, so it’s multiple quick layers, rinse, wait for it to dry, and repeat.
Be warned this stuff is basically like painting with blood. It congeals very quickly, needs to be thinned, and should be done either by airbrush or in multiple thin layers to keep it from drying clumpy.
Seems fitting for Khorne.
Any suggested paint consistencies for Slaanesh?
Any really smooth gloss metals on a Forgeworld model were probably done with airbrushed clears, so check those out and see which color and base would work for you.
Came out looking much better! I applied a good layer of nuln oil to the stone parts of the building and it darkened up quite nicely too. Thanks for the advice everyone!
That looks great!
Maybe try to hit the rivets with the same 'dirt' wash you used for the streaking.
Finished said edging on first Repulsor, almost done on the Rhino.
Also I've got a Trygon Prime sub assembled and ready for painting once the gap-filling putty has dried. Figure I'll test out the new scheme and enter this months WH40K painting competition with it.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Hot damn that looks good. You should be proud!
I needed a nurgling proxy for a stupidly large skirmish warband, and being a pestilens player in AoS gives me access to a ton of tiny plague rats. Whipped this out pretty quickly. It's definitely not showpiece quality, but it's recognizeable on the table:
*edit* Also also, I need to stop using Dakkadakka as a host site, it’s got godawful picture quality.
This is incredibly disheartening, and combined with acutely regretting selling my stuff, this gland/jaw infection and a serious lack of sleep (it's 3:50am) I am feeling utterly defeatist about the whole thing.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Painting well realized organic schemes seems like a whole crazy can of worms. There's a LOT more going on that just picking the right colours, like a vehicle (or standard tyranid) pattern.
I've overthought it and had no patience with myself. Pretty lousy mix.
Gonna grab few gaunts later/tomorrow and just dick around with colour combinations. After all, that's how I landed on the green/brown scheme in the first place.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I'm thinking about maybe doing it on some hive fleet kraken to give the carapace like a beetle type look
Source: I've painted so many Wordd Bearers.
If you’re going for an iridescent look though, there’s specific color-changing paints you can try instead, though it will be difficult to make them look right without an airbrush to achieve the mirror sheen effect needed. But either way, you definitely want a gloss black undercoat to bring a lustrous shine to the finished product.
I should paint the old one as practice.
I'm thinking about doing the normal golds I do and the drybrush a bright silver on the edges of the carapace to hopefully get a kind of natural looking variation. I'm trying to achieve the normal kraken look but with a shine.
the other cryx jack resculpts are looking pretty nice too (more in the style of their latest Seether/Inflictor kit)
Many of them still require you to glue up the two halves of the torso, which is annoying because it means you'll probably need to fill gaps, but they're so light and cleanly detailed it's worth it
Feels pretty good.
My mind immediately jumped to the colour 'rucksack tan'.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Did a few head swaps:
Decided to go Yellow:
Edit: A little more done!
I saw someone use the technical oxide to make them like 'lost souls' who have been around so long their armor grew corrosion on them, and they almost looked like statues, it was pretty cool looking. They have a pretty good design for 2 color setup, so I would say just find 2 complimentary colors and go to town.
I instinctively tasted paint when I saw him using a duplicate paint cup as a drinking mug.
Fixing all the broken weapons looks like a bit of a pain. I think it's gonna come down to drilling holes in the tops of the fists, then putting shaved down handles into the holes if I want anything like stability.
Someone on dakka made some cool-looking "stonecast eternals" that were living statues:
(Not mine)
Why did I at some point feel the need to Ebay purchase a single Eldar Swooping Hawk? How long have I had this classic Skaven Blood Bowl team?
Edit: could definitely get the "Fiery beard" effect better though
I'm going back to my old Tyranid colours (brown/green with bone/yellow/red accents).
Gonna change things up a little - ie try to do something more interesting with the carapace, but nothing else I've tried even comes close to how striking Hive Fleet Strigoi looks.
So there. I'll finish this Trygon once I'm feeling better, clear out the tanks for eBay and then get to work on this diorama.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!