Excuse the iphone picture, but to celebrate the Last Jedi being released I painted up a Boba Fett from the Imperial Assault game I've had lying around for a while
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TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
Got started on a Red Corsairs raptor, still need to figure out the metal bits and the symbol transfer. The color scheme on this model is one of my favorites
So I went to a class today at our local game shop for figuring out techniques after a base coating. I messed up, fixed things, messed up again and while the end result is still sloppy I like how it turned out for my first time putting brush to mini. Can't really make it out well in the pictures, cause phone camera, but I actually did a good job of applying a rusty look to the bolter/jetpack. I didn't try to get color to the eyes of the helmet mainly cause the brushes I was given didn't seem up to the task, the guy running the little class admitted they were definitely well used.
I definitely found I took better to dry brushing than trying to do blending, but I didn't quite get to watch him close cause he had to do it over and over again to try and get everyone as he got more people than he expected. So I messed up trying to do a blend on the shoulders, and to fix it decided to just go over it with a black.
Hey I got a dumb question, it's not possible to salvage a paint that hasnt been used in 10-20 years and basically has no moisture left in the pot is it? I want to get back in to mini's with the rerelease of necromunda, but I have not played/painted since roughly 3rd edition of 40k came out. Maybe 4th edition, since I remember that screwed up a bunch of my Blood Claws weapons they had on them(no more hand flamers). Surprisingly the OLD pots with the pop top might still be good, but the screw lids and new pop tops are all but dried up.
Hey I got a dumb question, it's not possible to salvage a paint that hasnt been used in 10-20 years and basically has no moisture left in the pot is it? I want to get back in to mini's with the rerelease of necromunda, but I have not played/painted since roughly 3rd edition of 40k came out. Maybe 4th edition, since I remember that screwed up a bunch of my Blood Claws weapons they had on them(no more hand flamers). Surprisingly the OLD pots with the pop top might still be good, but the screw lids and new pop tops are all but dried up.
I wouldn't get my hopes up, but you can always try - worst case scenario is you're out some tap water or a pot of lamian medium.
New GW paint pots can be kind of spendy if you're planning on using more than a few colors on each of your models. If you have older paint pots it might be worthwhile to clean them out entirely and transfer newly purchased paint from the new GW pots to the old ones, as the new pots are fucking trash and are explicitly designed to make people waste paint.
The new paints have significantly more color options, and there are tons of new styles of paint that didn't exist when you stopped painting, so even if none of your old stuff is salvageable you can still check out modern paints with nicer pigments as well as the base/layer/wash/technical system that GW does now.
Hey I got a dumb question, it's not possible to salvage a paint that hasnt been used in 10-20 years and basically has no moisture left in the pot is it? I want to get back in to mini's with the rerelease of necromunda, but I have not played/painted since roughly 3rd edition of 40k came out. Maybe 4th edition, since I remember that screwed up a bunch of my Blood Claws weapons they had on them(no more hand flamers). Surprisingly the OLD pots with the pop top might still be good, but the screw lids and new pop tops are all but dried up.
I wouldn't get my hopes up, but you can always try - worst case scenario is you're out some tap water or a pot of lamian medium.
New GW paint pots can be kind of spendy if you're planning on using more than a few colors on each of your models. If you have older paint pots it might be worthwhile to clean them out entirely and transfer newly purchased paint from the new GW pots to the old ones, as the new pots are fucking trash and are explicitly designed to make people waste paint.
The new paints have significantly more color options, and there are tons of new styles of paint that didn't exist when you stopped painting, so even if none of your old stuff is salvageable you can still check out modern paints with nicer pigments as well as the base/layer/wash/technical system that GW does now.
I thought they reintroduced the pop top like the old white cap Citadel Colour? Are the new pots that bad? Also, even the damn paints have doubled in price since I last got into this crap. Every single part of this hobby has at least doubled if not sometimes tripled in price since I was last in it. Time to check out the op and/or the rest of the thread for paint recommendations.
edit: 21 latex pucks stuck in bottles, and 6 white cap pop tops still liquid somehow, after 20 years.
Inflation accounts for the majority of the price increase, $4.25 in 2017 dollars is $2.78 in 1997 dollars. The hobby is still pretty spendy, but compared to hobbies like model railroading or nitro RC cars or amateur radio it's got a pretty great dollar/hour ratio.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Great job for your first time Arthil!
Did they happen to teach you about thinning paints in the introductory class? I can maybe see how that might be just a touch beyond immediate beginners. I would say that's the next basic technique you should learn. You'll clean up the gloopy cakey look by thinning them out and applying multiple thin coats.
Did they happen to teach you about thinning paints in the introductory class? I can maybe see how that might be just a touch beyond immediate beginners. I would say that's the next basic technique you should learn. You'll clean up the gloopy cakey look by thinning them out and applying multiple thin coats.
Well it wasn't an introductory class but an intermediate which is maybe why that wasn't covered. What he showed us is how to easily make a wet palette using small plastic plates and some paper towels plus a little bit of water. Any tutorials which go over something as basic as thinning? I've also noticed some people put the paint right on their dry palette and add water with the brush to thin it out.
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited December 2017
That's how you do it! If you watch pretty much any of Lord Duncan's videos (Warhammer TV), or ApatheticFish, on YouTube, they'll generally talk about thinning at the start of any base coat segment. Basically take a bit of paint from the pot, get it on your palette, dip just the tip if your brush in your water pot and mix the water in with the paint. Don't use too much water, it will thin it out to almost a wash.
Let me see if I can find a specific video for you...
In that case. Should I still make a ghetto wet palette even when thinning, or use a dry one and thin? I'm noticing it seems to vary between different people online, some are using the wet palette and others like use an old tile.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
My fifth tactical squad is coming along. I plan to break up my Battle for Macragge and these Mk III minis amongst all my tactical squads and my devastator squads so they don't stand out as much.
Wet pallets all the time. Saves you paint and makes mixing/thinning way easier.
If you've got 5 bucks to spare, just go down to an art store and buy one (plastic clamshell with a sponge and special paper). Less hassle than having to make one every time you want to paint.
To clarify, wet pallets arent really that wet, they just keep the paint moist and stop it from drying out as fast. You can thin paints on anything, you just add a few drops of water and mix it up until it's "the consistency of milk" (for some reason this is the gold standard everyone says). If you use a dry pallet, your puddle of thinned paint will dry up in a minute or two and you'll have to thin out another batch, which can be tedious and waste a lot of paint.
And unless you're using like, pre-thinned airbrush paints or drybrushing, you should ALWAYS be thinning your paints and using a pallet. Painting right out of the pot is the fastest way to get gloopy paint.
I will admit, spending a tiny sum for a pack of small plastic plates. and then buying a roll of reynold's parchment paper+using paper towels we already have in spades seems a just as cheap alternative.
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited December 2017
I always used a dry palette and am starting that way again with this foray in to painting. If you don't pull too much paint out of the pot at once you really don't waste any. I think a couple of minutes is a bit of a fast estimate. You should have enough time to easily do a full models base coat before it dries. If your house is really dry or something you can also use some drying retardant as part of the thinning mix.
That said, I'm sure there are a ton of objective reasons a wet palette is better, I've just never used one. Maybe I'll try once I'm comfortably back in my painting groove again.
Im scratch building a hover junker type ship but am having trouble finding a good model to use as a pilot. Any ideas for a mode that would look good riding a floating hunk of junk?
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
My fifth tactical squad is Finished! Now onto the sixth!
I wish that was how Tervigons worked in the game, similarly to Land Raiders. Big armored transports that smashed through fortifications then dumped a bunch of bugs out of its alien hooha into the enemy base.
Man-flu had prevented me from getting much done this week but I just managed to get the basic look of the door-smashing Tervigon sorted.
That would be terrifying. This is the kind of thing I would love to see in a 40k movie.
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TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
I had a similar issue and felt like my red was a little too pink but it just presents better at arms length on a table. Any darker red with the black trim made it look dull
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited December 2017
So my Glowforge finally came! It's set up and cooking, and after its calibrations and the all-but-mandatory Glowforge ruler...
Freed from the tyranny of aftermarket miniature bases, forevermore!
The color of your paint is also entirely dependent on the light it’s being viewed in. Daylight bulbs, fluorescent lighting, actual sunlight, they’ll all make your colors look completely different.
I wish that was how Tervigons worked in the game, similarly to Land Raiders. Big armored transports that smashed through fortifications then dumped a bunch of bugs out of its alien hooha into the enemy base.
I agree kind of
I like how they can birth more and more gaunts as time goes on but I just don't like how the model turned out
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
If that’s a Blood Angel, I hope you’re planning on putting some blood drops on those knees. And shoulders. And a little one on the belt like the Batman symbol.
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I definitely found I took better to dry brushing than trying to do blending, but I didn't quite get to watch him close cause he had to do it over and over again to try and get everyone as he got more people than he expected. So I messed up trying to do a blend on the shoulders, and to fix it decided to just go over it with a black.
Before
After
I wouldn't get my hopes up, but you can always try - worst case scenario is you're out some tap water or a pot of lamian medium.
New GW paint pots can be kind of spendy if you're planning on using more than a few colors on each of your models. If you have older paint pots it might be worthwhile to clean them out entirely and transfer newly purchased paint from the new GW pots to the old ones, as the new pots are fucking trash and are explicitly designed to make people waste paint.
The new paints have significantly more color options, and there are tons of new styles of paint that didn't exist when you stopped painting, so even if none of your old stuff is salvageable you can still check out modern paints with nicer pigments as well as the base/layer/wash/technical system that GW does now.
I thought they reintroduced the pop top like the old white cap Citadel Colour? Are the new pots that bad? Also, even the damn paints have doubled in price since I last got into this crap. Every single part of this hobby has at least doubled if not sometimes tripled in price since I was last in it.
edit: 21 latex pucks stuck in bottles, and 6 white cap pop tops still liquid somehow, after 20 years.
Did they happen to teach you about thinning paints in the introductory class? I can maybe see how that might be just a touch beyond immediate beginners. I would say that's the next basic technique you should learn. You'll clean up the gloopy cakey look by thinning them out and applying multiple thin coats.
Well it wasn't an introductory class but an intermediate which is maybe why that wasn't covered. What he showed us is how to easily make a wet palette using small plastic plates and some paper towels plus a little bit of water. Any tutorials which go over something as basic as thinning? I've also noticed some people put the paint right on their dry palette and add water with the brush to thin it out.
Let me see if I can find a specific video for you...
e:
There you go. About 30-45 seconds in he discusses thinning down the base coat and shows exactly the kind of consistency you want.
If you've got 5 bucks to spare, just go down to an art store and buy one (plastic clamshell with a sponge and special paper). Less hassle than having to make one every time you want to paint.
To clarify, wet pallets arent really that wet, they just keep the paint moist and stop it from drying out as fast. You can thin paints on anything, you just add a few drops of water and mix it up until it's "the consistency of milk" (for some reason this is the gold standard everyone says). If you use a dry pallet, your puddle of thinned paint will dry up in a minute or two and you'll have to thin out another batch, which can be tedious and waste a lot of paint.
And unless you're using like, pre-thinned airbrush paints or drybrushing, you should ALWAYS be thinning your paints and using a pallet. Painting right out of the pot is the fastest way to get gloopy paint.
That said, I'm sure there are a ton of objective reasons a wet palette is better, I've just never used one. Maybe I'll try once I'm comfortably back in my painting groove again.
Im scratch building a hover junker type ship but am having trouble finding a good model to use as a pilot. Any ideas for a mode that would look good riding a floating hunk of junk?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Justifiably, I imagine.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Good news: Your new haz-mat orange paint scheme for your Necromunda Goliaths actually looks quite boss.
That would be terrifying. This is the kind of thing I would love to see in a 40k movie.
Freed from the tyranny of aftermarket miniature bases, forevermore!
I agree kind of
I like how they can birth more and more gaunts as time goes on but I just don't like how the model turned out
And it looks reasonable.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
You should feel good about yourself.