You run the sponge under hot water to get any molding off and set it in the tray, then run the paper under hot water and set it on the sponge. Bam, done.
Hmm, with all that moisture, is there enough to not need to thin my paint? Not sure how much moisture the paint absorbs from the palette.
Nah you still have to thin as normal, it just keeps the paint from drying out on the palette. If you put paint on and it’s noticeably thinning then there’s too much water in your wet palette.
Don't let the image I posted of the skeleton fool you, you can't see the horrible mould line I didn't see until I'd drybrushed or where I got the metal from the bottom of the bow on the leg lol.
Those bases I ordered are gonna work awesomely though. Not too big as I'd feared. Gonna need something... bigger for the frost giant though.
Anybody has a good alternative for airbrush cleaner?
The bottle of Vallejo Airbrush cleaner works really well, but it was $10 for like 16oz and that's too expensive for the amount I'm using.
Isopropyl alcohol - Anything over 70%. Should generally be cheaper and work well when you need a good, deep clean. I find myself getting by more often on just water these days, but it's mostly by virtue of better general habits. The alcohol is still the go-to when I'm done for the day.
Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Yeah, isopropyl alcohol is pretty good and remarkably inexpensive even if you get lab grade (99.99% pure or better).
Just don’t get it confused with acetone (which can usually be gotten from the same supplier) which will definitely dissolve the paint gunking up your airbrush but will also dissolve the rubber seals that stop it turning into an over-engineered bubble stone.
Anybody has a good alternative for airbrush cleaner?
The bottle of Vallejo Airbrush cleaner works really well, but it was $10 for like 16oz and that's too expensive for the amount I'm using.
Isopropyl alcohol - Anything over 70%. Should generally be cheaper and work well when you need a good, deep clean. I find myself getting by more often on just water these days, but it's mostly by virtue of better general habits. The alcohol is still the go-to when I'm done for the day.
What kind of habits should I be using the minimize using cleaner?
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Fundamentally, I just mean in how I rinse out the brush between colours, and doing a better job with paint consistency so that it doesn't clog up. I would do a full disassembly between colours when I was starting out because paint would get gunked in and around the nozzle. When the consistency is better, it's much easier to just walk into the bathroom and rinse it out with water before continuing on to the next colour. Still do the full clean at the end though, because inevitably some starts building up in the tip.
Instructions to follow assuming a gravity fed brush:
I keep a squeeze bottle mix of a 1:10 ratio high % isopropyl to water. I'll finish with a color, blast the reservoir with that mix and dump the contents into a run off cup. You can do this a few times. I then blast a qtip with the mix and run that through the reservoir to mop up whatever is left in the cup. Then I'll run regular water through the airbrush a few times making sure it runs clear. After that I'll pull the needle back just slightly so that it's accessible through the reservoir and then gently clean with another alcohol tipped qtip, making sure to rotate the needle and get all paint off the tip. You generally don't want to pull the needle all the way back through the brush until you're pretty sure it's clean, otherwise you end up dragging paint through the brush and that is a pain. With the needle slightly pulled back I'll then wipe the nozzle, and every few times through I'll go so far as to remove the tip and do the same there.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Speaking of air brushes, look what I just picked up at my local Blick...
I decided to pick it up locally because I wanted some actual advice and thankfully the Blick up the street from me has an "airbrush guy". Guided me down the path of wisdom. I found out Iwata's North American arm is actually headquartered here in Portland so I decided to go hull hog and get an Iwata compressor as well.
So I have a question. I got some GW Leadbelcher Air for base coats, but I want to spray my Vallejo Primer as well. I picked up some Golden air brush medium (on the recommendation of The Dude), but I didn't bother to ask what ratios to mix in. Basically I just want to thin the Vallejo Primer enough to easily spray through the airbrush.
Also, about GW Air paints, do most people really just poor them in the pot, or do you thin those as well? I feel like the answer is going to remain the standard "thin it, thin it more than you think it should be thinned" but I just wanted to check.
The air paints are designed to not really need thinning, as long as you shake them up good they should be fine. Put some agitating beads in there and you’re golden. Personally though, Vallejo air metals are the most silky smooth things I’ve ever run through an airbrush, their steel is pretty close to leadbelcher and is what I’ve switched to for all my darker metal needs.
If you do stick with the GW stuff, save yourself a headache and a mess and transfer it to dropper bottles.
Badablack on
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
That's what I forgot while I was there, dropper bottles. I'll order some on Amazon.
So I mentioned earlier (may have been in the Holiday Town thread) that my Necron Compound was bad...but when I went to my LGS today, literally every bottle of GW's Dry line seemed to be that way, almost putty like. Can't even shake the bottles. Every color. Is it just meant to be that gloopy and thick? I picked up a bottle of Lilac Dry for some of the purple work I'm doing, and it's the same consistency. Crazy thick.
Yeah, the purpose of a dry paint is to get just the barest amount on your brush. Otherwise you’re wiping it all off anyway and wasting paint. If you can run your brush on it and get some residue on there, it’s working as intended. Don’t put anything in there to thin it or you’ll mess up the consistency.
If it’s just a big rubbery lump that you can’t get any paint off though, then yeah it’s borked.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Hmm, I tried thinning my Necro Compound because I thought it was bad....but I think it's fine, still usable. Now I know it's supposed to be that way.
Casually HardcoreOnce an Asshole. Trying to be better.Registered Userregular
Man, sometimes watching youtube videos on painting is the most depressing thing in the world....
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited December 2017
If I'm watching a video of a particular technique, I just assume I will be bad at it for a while. Every so often I do something "right" the first time (like feathering my power swords with glaze, that went pretty well the first time)...other times, not so much (wet blending).
e: Just airbrush primed my first models. Vallejo Surface Primer had no issues in the air brush, no need to be thinned, sprayed right out and cleaned right out when I was done. It took me a bit to get used to the different PSI and paint flow settings, but I think I mostly got pretty thin, smooth coats on. Doesn't look like I clogged any detail and the models are nicely primed now. I'll try my first base coat with it later tonight, once I figure out how to get some of this Leadbelcher Air out without making a terrible mess
Anyone have experience with Vallejo primer? Painting it on specifically. Just wondering whether I should follow what it said on the bottle(12 hours to cure I believe?) or if it can be worked with earlier.
There are basically three times to consider when working with most of the paints we use:
1) Working Time - This is typically the period leading up to "dry to touch" but working time may end before the paint is dry to touch. Working time is when you can safely apply additional coats of the same kind of paint.
2) Dry to Touch - This is when the painted part can be handled and the paint has begun to cure. It is generally a bad idea to add additional layers between the "dry to touch" and "time to cure" finish because the paint is undergoing a chemical reaction to turn it into a plastic (or at least polymer). Thinning elements in newly applied coats (e.g. water for acrylics) can cause previous layers to no longer be dry, and this can mix in the cured portion with unreacted paint. This will lead to things like porosity, orange peel, and poor adhesion.
3) Time to Cure - This is how long the paint takes to cure in a normal environment. Once cured, the paint has turned into a polymer and is no longer paint. This is why if you wash a painted mini, the paint won't come off.
*Caution* Likely not applicable to here, but oil based paints don't typically cure. This is why you hear stories of masterpieces being ruined when someone cleans them with common cleaning agents. They've reactivated the paint and smushed it all over the painting.
Worked through the orc from the Reaper Learn to Paint Kit tonight, after having primed it black. There are a few things I learned tonight, the main one is my lighting is absolute crap and I need some kind of small and portable light source. Second is that this kit does indeed come with metallic paint but they make no warning of telling you so I had to repaint certain parts so it didn't look like the orc came back from a glitter party.
Great stuff. I assume the kit came with no ink washes? If not I suggest picking a few up as they do magic in minutes. A quick wash will really bring out details like those teeth.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited December 2017
@Arthil This is the light I'm using at my painting station and I love it:
Has brightness and color temperature settings plus the magnifying glass is super useful for several different things. It's also LED so it doesn't get very warm which is an added benefit for you and your paint if you aren't using a wet palette.
How in the world do you transfer paint from GW/P3 bottles to dropper bottles without spilling it losing 1/2 of it to your carpets?
I honestly just poured it in and tried to hold my hands steady. And yes, a few times I did pour paint all over my hobby table.
valhalla130 on
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I bought a glass eye dropper last night I was going to use. It leaves a bit of paint behind in the dropper, but once you're done transferring, a drop of water and shaking up the dropper should get the residue out (it did for me last night). This is for pretty thin paint though. Not sure how you would transfer thicker stuff.
I decided to pick it up locally because I wanted some actual advice and thankfully the Blick up the street from me has an "airbrush guy". Guided me down the path of wisdom. I found out Iwata's North American arm is actually headquartered here in Portland so I decided to go hull hog and get an Iwata compressor as well.
Keep in mind that this is a compressor without an air tank and will both be going off whenever you use the airbrush, and will give some bursts in the airflow that an air tank buffers against.
Beside the fact that the as-186 is the version with the air tank, I assume the as-186 and its lookalikes are actually Chinese knock-offs of the original Iwata products like this one.
Great stuff. I assume the kit came with no ink washes? If not I suggest picking a few up as they do magic in minutes. A quick wash will really bring out details like those teeth.
The guide in the kit has you make your own washes by mixing paint and water. I do have some Nuln Oil and Army Painter Strong Tone though. Not sure about slathering that on after already doing the drybrushing however.
Has brightness and color temperature settings plus the magnifying glass is super useful for several different things. It's also LED so it doesn't get very warm which is an added benefit for you and your paint if you aren't using a wet palette.
Beside the fact that the as-186 is the version with the air tank, I assume the as-186 and its lookalikes are actually Chinese knock-offs of the original Iwata products like this one.
It's pretty easy to tell actually. The Iwata's top section is much more compact and it has the two threaded bolts on the side that the AS-186 rebrands don't have.
So for literally for the first time ever I've put paint to plastic over the past week and painted up some Primaris Marines I think I've gotten better but you know gotta start somewhere
Marines the First:
Marines the Second:
Marines the Third:
Need to do some touching up
Want to play co-op games? Feel free to hit me up!
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
So for literally for the first time ever I've put paint to plastic over the past week and painted up some Primaris Marines I think I've gotten better but you know gotta start somewhere
Posts
Hmm, with all that moisture, is there enough to not need to thin my paint? Not sure how much moisture the paint absorbs from the palette.
Don't let the image I posted of the skeleton fool you, you can't see the horrible mould line I didn't see until I'd drybrushed or where I got the metal from the bottom of the bow on the leg lol.
Those bases I ordered are gonna work awesomely though. Not too big as I'd feared. Gonna need something... bigger for the frost giant though.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
The bottle of Vallejo Airbrush cleaner works really well, but it was $10 for like 6oz and that's too expensive for the amount I'm using.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Isopropyl alcohol - Anything over 70%. Should generally be cheaper and work well when you need a good, deep clean. I find myself getting by more often on just water these days, but it's mostly by virtue of better general habits. The alcohol is still the go-to when I'm done for the day.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Just don’t get it confused with acetone (which can usually be gotten from the same supplier) which will definitely dissolve the paint gunking up your airbrush but will also dissolve the rubber seals that stop it turning into an over-engineered bubble stone.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
What kind of habits should I be using the minimize using cleaner?
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I keep a squeeze bottle mix of a 1:10 ratio high % isopropyl to water. I'll finish with a color, blast the reservoir with that mix and dump the contents into a run off cup. You can do this a few times. I then blast a qtip with the mix and run that through the reservoir to mop up whatever is left in the cup. Then I'll run regular water through the airbrush a few times making sure it runs clear. After that I'll pull the needle back just slightly so that it's accessible through the reservoir and then gently clean with another alcohol tipped qtip, making sure to rotate the needle and get all paint off the tip. You generally don't want to pull the needle all the way back through the brush until you're pretty sure it's clean, otherwise you end up dragging paint through the brush and that is a pain. With the needle slightly pulled back I'll then wipe the nozzle, and every few times through I'll go so far as to remove the tip and do the same there.
I decided to pick it up locally because I wanted some actual advice and thankfully the Blick up the street from me has an "airbrush guy". Guided me down the path of wisdom. I found out Iwata's North American arm is actually headquartered here in Portland so I decided to go hull hog and get an Iwata compressor as well.
So I have a question. I got some GW Leadbelcher Air for base coats, but I want to spray my Vallejo Primer as well. I picked up some Golden air brush medium (on the recommendation of The Dude), but I didn't bother to ask what ratios to mix in. Basically I just want to thin the Vallejo Primer enough to easily spray through the airbrush.
Also, about GW Air paints, do most people really just poor them in the pot, or do you thin those as well? I feel like the answer is going to remain the standard "thin it, thin it more than you think it should be thinned" but I just wanted to check.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
If you do stick with the GW stuff, save yourself a headache and a mess and transfer it to dropper bottles.
So I mentioned earlier (may have been in the Holiday Town thread) that my Necron Compound was bad...but when I went to my LGS today, literally every bottle of GW's Dry line seemed to be that way, almost putty like. Can't even shake the bottles. Every color. Is it just meant to be that gloopy and thick? I picked up a bottle of Lilac Dry for some of the purple work I'm doing, and it's the same consistency. Crazy thick.
If it’s just a big rubbery lump that you can’t get any paint off though, then yeah it’s borked.
I was thinking a silicon funnel. Only thing I can think of that the paint wouldn't immediately stick to.
e: Just airbrush primed my first models. Vallejo Surface Primer had no issues in the air brush, no need to be thinned, sprayed right out and cleaned right out when I was done. It took me a bit to get used to the different PSI and paint flow settings, but I think I mostly got pretty thin, smooth coats on. Doesn't look like I clogged any detail and the models are nicely primed now. I'll try my first base coat with it later tonight, once I figure out how to get some of this Leadbelcher Air out without making a terrible mess
I spent an embarrassing chunk of my evening on that pipe
There are basically three times to consider when working with most of the paints we use:
1) Working Time - This is typically the period leading up to "dry to touch" but working time may end before the paint is dry to touch. Working time is when you can safely apply additional coats of the same kind of paint.
2) Dry to Touch - This is when the painted part can be handled and the paint has begun to cure. It is generally a bad idea to add additional layers between the "dry to touch" and "time to cure" finish because the paint is undergoing a chemical reaction to turn it into a plastic (or at least polymer). Thinning elements in newly applied coats (e.g. water for acrylics) can cause previous layers to no longer be dry, and this can mix in the cured portion with unreacted paint. This will lead to things like porosity, orange peel, and poor adhesion.
3) Time to Cure - This is how long the paint takes to cure in a normal environment. Once cured, the paint has turned into a polymer and is no longer paint. This is why if you wash a painted mini, the paint won't come off.
*Caution* Likely not applicable to here, but oil based paints don't typically cure. This is why you hear stories of masterpieces being ruined when someone cleans them with common cleaning agents. They've reactivated the paint and smushed it all over the painting.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WWP4VKB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Has brightness and color temperature settings plus the magnifying glass is super useful for several different things. It's also LED so it doesn't get very warm which is an added benefit for you and your paint if you aren't using a wet palette.
I honestly just poured it in and tried to hold my hands steady. And yes, a few times I did pour paint all over my hobby table.
Keep in mind that this is a compressor without an air tank and will both be going off whenever you use the airbrush, and will give some bursts in the airflow that an air tank buffers against.
Also that's totally a rebranded AS-186.
Beside the fact that the as-186 is the version with the air tank, I assume the as-186 and its lookalikes are actually Chinese knock-offs of the original Iwata products like this one.
The guide in the kit has you make your own washes by mixing paint and water. I do have some Nuln Oil and Army Painter Strong Tone though. Not sure about slathering that on after already doing the drybrushing however.
I actually think I'm gonna give this one a try:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UCODIA/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1S7YCQZ8XA5YO&colid=2CRCD4KNHMO0L&psc=0
Just cause it'll fit my space needs better. I'm working off of two wooden dinner trays currently.
It's pretty easy to tell actually. The Iwata's top section is much more compact and it has the two threaded bolts on the side that the AS-186 rebrands don't have.
Original flavour
and my first attempt at ghost
From the front:
From the back:
Group shot:
Marines the First:
Marines the Second:
Marines the Third:
Need to do some touching up
Want to play co-op games? Feel free to hit me up!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Slaanesh Primaris?
Tentatively pleased
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705