They won't snag me a golden demon or anything, but I'm pretty proud of my first Squad of Pallid Hand marines. First mini's I've finished since getting back into the hobby.
(And now I notice I missed a horn on the champion )
You actually painted them, which makes them better than at least half the other armies out there.
- IMPORTANT ALERT -
If you have a bunch of your painted work saved on an iPhone with the ‘memories’ function under photos, click that thing immediately. It does a big musical sweeping vignette of your painting history. It’s pretty great!
Basing is ridiculously easy once you start. Chunks/sheets of cork and/or basing ballast can be glued on and drybrushed, then you can add patches of tuft grass or static grass. Or both!
Honestly, there's very little 'learning' for straightforward, Citadel Box Art-level basing. It's quick, easy and requires only that you pick up a few cheap supplies. It might also be helpful to have the miniature either loosely attached to the intended base, or pinned to cork, so you can work on the base separately.
A tip for static grass: once you've put down some PVA and placed a wad of grass on it, rub an inflated balloon on your shirt and hold it above the grass (repeat a few times) to get the grass to stand up straight.
Or invest in one of those charged dispenser thingies.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Hey so my plan is to snag my old space marine army from my parents house the next time I see them.
However, I painted that army when I was like 13, so I would like to redo it all. What are the best/easiest ways to strip paint off of models. Also, are there any good non-spray primers? I live in an apartment and spray-painting in the middle of winter when I can't open windows much seems like a bad idea.
For stripping, I hear Simple Green is the US equivalent to Dettol, soak the models in it for a few hours and then give it a scrub with an old toothbrush.
I've found that methylated spirits are more effective, cheaper, produces less of a pervasive smell and cleans up with the same toothbrush method.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I use isopropyl alcohol
It does strip a lot better than I thought and works on plastic models
I use a toothbrush to clean up after still like I said I was surprised it stripped an Aeldari autarch caked in paint {it was gross}
A tip for static grass: once you've put down some PVA and placed a wad of grass on it, rub an inflated balloon on your shirt and hold it above the grass (repeat a few times) to get the grass to stand up straight.
Or invest in one of those charged dispenser thingies.
...STATIC grass?
+10
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
The tip I heard ages ago (and used to good effect) was to blow on it afterwards to help it stand up. This might be a more effective tactic for bases where rubbing a balloon would be difficult.
Basing is ridiculously easy once you start. Chunks/sheets of cork and/or basing ballast can be glued on and drybrushed, then you can add patches of tuft grass or static grass. Or both!
Honestly, there's very little 'learning' for straightforward, Citadel Box Art-level basing. It's quick, easy and requires only that you pick up a few cheap supplies. It might also be helpful to have the miniature either loosely attached to the intended base, or pinned to cork, so you can work on the base separately.
A tip for static grass: once you've put down some PVA and placed a wad of grass on it, rub an inflated balloon on your shirt and hold it above the grass (repeat a few times) to get the grass to stand up straight.
Or invest in one of those charged dispenser thingies.
I wondered how people did that... I just imagined tweezers and a lot of patience
Basing is ridiculously easy once you start. Chunks/sheets of cork and/or basing ballast can be glued on and drybrushed, then you can add patches of tuft grass or static grass. Or both!
Honestly, there's very little 'learning' for straightforward, Citadel Box Art-level basing. It's quick, easy and requires only that you pick up a few cheap supplies. It might also be helpful to have the miniature either loosely attached to the intended base, or pinned to cork, so you can work on the base separately.
A tip for static grass: once you've put down some PVA and placed a wad of grass on it, rub an inflated balloon on your shirt and hold it above the grass (repeat a few times) to get the grass to stand up straight.
Or invest in one of those charged dispenser thingies.
I wondered how people did that... I just imagined tweezers and a lot of patience
I'm trying to picture that and it's hilarious.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I saw a video clip on Instagram a day or two ago of someone trimming the static grass on the base of a bloodbowl player with nail scissors, i think
Gotta get that regulation pitch length!
You can bend and reconfigure plastic using the hot/cold water trick that’s done with resin, it just takes a little longer.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
0
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Unnnh, they're pretty much broken in half and hanging by a thread. There is no bending these back. Right at the point where the vanes joins the jump pack.
Probably have to just snap them off, file down the jagged ends for a clean fit, and plastic glue then back on then.
You can also obtain plastic rod of a suitable diameter from a hobby shop to re-create the hinges if you want. It would need some careful filing work to “bury” them in the join enough but nothing too arduous.
I had to hairbrush a bunch of Iron Warriors awhile back, and yeah airbrush type metallics no question. Thinning regular chunky metals is a pain without the right mediums on hand.
Is there a reasonable way to get the plaguespitters and fans off my foetid bloat drones without breaking them and in such a way I can reattach them?
I build these bad boys so I could play with them ASAP, but having gotten an airbrush since I'm regretting not being able to spray individual components during assembly.
In all fairness a cult of acrobatic murder elves obsessed with knives? What else would they wear but stilettos.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
+7
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
Most of the Witch Aelves are actually in flats, though, granted, they are flat-heeled thigh-high boots, so not exactly ideal. Only Morathi and the Slaughter Queens get heels I think. On the flip side they are pretty killer heels, and it's not exactly against her character to go for impractical aesthetic appeal (plus this form is just a diplomatic glamour/illusion, and her true form definitely doesn't have heels on, on account of being a giant snake lady).
Can anyone PM me a link to a good 'starter' set for paints and stuff to try getting into this?
I'm currently trying to get a friend into the hobby so I was looking at options:
GW makes a kit that includes sprue cutters (If you cut things from sprues, you need this). It runs around 30$ and comes with micro paint containers of a wide selection of colors. However I think a lot of people here don't like those because they could be dried out when you get them?
Reaper learn to paint's are about 30$ on amazon, come with a paintbrush(meh) and mini(meh), and a good set of paints to use. I like reaper paints, but they come out matte, and I dislike their metallics. It also comes with a carrying case, I store extra bottles in mine, its nice but not a reason to buy it unless you are going to be transporting paint a lot?
Some other stuff to think about getting:
-brushes, I'll let someone more versed talk about brushes. You don't need anything hyper expensive to start, but I recommend finding something besides cheap craft store brushes. "Miniature brush" on amazon will just get you brushes with shorter handles(beware). In general sizes, you should at least have a size 2 and 0 acrylic brush, there are a lot of brands to choose from for the hobby that are reasonable.
-I would get a wet or dry pallet (dont paint straight from the pot, you need to thin the paints)
-get a sprue cutter if the line of mini's uses sprues
-hobby knife for cleaning minis, mold lines, and cutting. Dont sprue cut with these. It's just harder and more dangerous, just please get the sprue cutter.
-have a crappy set of brushes for things like glue or other 'dirty' work if you need
-get brush soap a 6$ container will last years of serious painting, the priority here is iffy, but its a solid investment, especially if you really start buying more brushes
-primer is important, you can start with just a matte black/white spray paint(1$ at walmart). You can also get brush on, or model specific primer spray paints that are outrageously priced but are pretty good.
-Wash/shade Paint kits generally don't include these, they cost about the same as a container of paint usually, and will really help up your game painting wise. Getting both a black and a brown wash can carry you for a long time
-medium/drying retardant I consider this low priority, you can use this to thin paints, but if you get a bottle of filtered water that will work mostly fine. It has multiple uses but you do not need it to start out.
Paint can really put a hurt on you cost wise to start. If you are painting something super specific, I'd recommend you just try and grab the paints you need, and build up your range over time to ease the burden. If you have friends who paint, empty dropper bottles and funnels and doing a 'paint trade/swap' might be the right route to go. I'd rather a friend get into the hobby and use some of my paint, rather than balk at needing 70$ of paint to paint his incomplete $200 army. The paint will last a lot longer than just those models, but it just gets very pricey up front IMO.
Posts
Yeah... cutting through some of the spots means I'd have to sculpt bits of armor, which is way out of my skill zone.
As it is, the cuts I've made don't really have any serious gaps.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
(And now I notice I missed a horn on the champion )
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
- IMPORTANT ALERT -
If you have a bunch of your painted work saved on an iPhone with the ‘memories’ function under photos, click that thing immediately. It does a big musical sweeping vignette of your painting history. It’s pretty great!
Basing is ridiculously easy once you start. Chunks/sheets of cork and/or basing ballast can be glued on and drybrushed, then you can add patches of tuft grass or static grass. Or both!
Honestly, there's very little 'learning' for straightforward, Citadel Box Art-level basing. It's quick, easy and requires only that you pick up a few cheap supplies. It might also be helpful to have the miniature either loosely attached to the intended base, or pinned to cork, so you can work on the base separately.
A tip for static grass: once you've put down some PVA and placed a wad of grass on it, rub an inflated balloon on your shirt and hold it above the grass (repeat a few times) to get the grass to stand up straight.
Or invest in one of those charged dispenser thingies.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
However, I painted that army when I was like 13, so I would like to redo it all. What are the best/easiest ways to strip paint off of models. Also, are there any good non-spray primers? I live in an apartment and spray-painting in the middle of winter when I can't open windows much seems like a bad idea.
I've found that methylated spirits are more effective, cheaper, produces less of a pervasive smell and cleans up with the same toothbrush method.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
It does strip a lot better than I thought and works on plastic models
I use a toothbrush to clean up after still like I said I was surprised it stripped an Aeldari autarch caked in paint {it was gross}
...STATIC grass?
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I wondered how people did that... I just imagined tweezers and a lot of patience
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I'm trying to picture that and it's hilarious.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Gotta get that regulation pitch length!
Any ideas how to repair them?
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
You can also obtain plastic rod of a suitable diameter from a hobby shop to re-create the hinges if you want. It would need some careful filing work to “bury” them in the join enough but nothing too arduous.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
...s'pretty good
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
That's good to hear because I bought some about 2 hours ago. I was starting on some Iron Warriors tanks this weekend
I build these bad boys so I could play with them ASAP, but having gotten an airbrush since I'm regretting not being able to spray individual components during assembly.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
It was still just a tiny bit cloggy and I ended up thinning it a bit more. Only a couple of drops of thinner and it ran pretty smooth.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Test Tzaangors....
And my test Chaos Warrior using the Robot's Thousand Son style of painting.
AM Leman Russ and GSC Leman Russ/Chimera done.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Not too sold on the basing yet, probably need to put some more work into that.
High heels? Really?
I wouldn't have even noticed, had you not said something about the base. X_x
Now for it to stop raining so I can prime him.
Pins, super glue and two part epoxy strong enough to attach metal electrical boxes to concrete.
This is why when your friend says “hey you can paint a lich for our DnD game yeah?” You should ask to see the model before you say yes.
That said those flowing robes should be really fun to paint.
Just show up with one of these and say you upgraded him.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Critical Failures - Havenhold Campaign • August St. Cloud (Human Ranger)
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I'm currently trying to get a friend into the hobby so I was looking at options:
GW makes a kit that includes sprue cutters (If you cut things from sprues, you need this). It runs around 30$ and comes with micro paint containers of a wide selection of colors. However I think a lot of people here don't like those because they could be dried out when you get them?
Reaper learn to paint's are about 30$ on amazon, come with a paintbrush(meh) and mini(meh), and a good set of paints to use. I like reaper paints, but they come out matte, and I dislike their metallics. It also comes with a carrying case, I store extra bottles in mine, its nice but not a reason to buy it unless you are going to be transporting paint a lot?
Some other stuff to think about getting:
-I would get a wet or dry pallet (dont paint straight from the pot, you need to thin the paints)
-get a sprue cutter if the line of mini's uses sprues
-hobby knife for cleaning minis, mold lines, and cutting. Dont sprue cut with these. It's just harder and more dangerous, just please get the sprue cutter.
-have a crappy set of brushes for things like glue or other 'dirty' work if you need
-get brush soap a 6$ container will last years of serious painting, the priority here is iffy, but its a solid investment, especially if you really start buying more brushes
-primer is important, you can start with just a matte black/white spray paint(1$ at walmart). You can also get brush on, or model specific primer spray paints that are outrageously priced but are pretty good.
-Wash/shade Paint kits generally don't include these, they cost about the same as a container of paint usually, and will really help up your game painting wise. Getting both a black and a brown wash can carry you for a long time
-medium/drying retardant I consider this low priority, you can use this to thin paints, but if you get a bottle of filtered water that will work mostly fine. It has multiple uses but you do not need it to start out.
Paint can really put a hurt on you cost wise to start. If you are painting something super specific, I'd recommend you just try and grab the paints you need, and build up your range over time to ease the burden. If you have friends who paint, empty dropper bottles and funnels and doing a 'paint trade/swap' might be the right route to go. I'd rather a friend get into the hobby and use some of my paint, rather than balk at needing 70$ of paint to paint his incomplete $200 army. The paint will last a lot longer than just those models, but it just gets very pricey up front IMO.