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[3D Printing] A toy to build toys...New to the hobby....

YotebethYotebeth CoyoteB'hamRegistered User regular
Hey all! I hope this is the right place to post, if not, my apologies!

Just got my first 3D printer for mybirthday, and I’m lovin’ it! Don’t really have any close friends who print, so I’m really winging it! This is def a case of fake it until you make it.

Machine:
Prusa iMk 2.5

Slicer:
Prusa control system and Cura...and so,Times mesh iced if I want to manually messup er...add supports.

Creation software:
Sculptris and tinkercad

I’m hoping to chat with other folks doing the 3D printing thing, any tips, advice, or images of your current and past builds would be great!

Cheers!

Full Time Artist. Rescuer of Reptiles. Engraver of Things. Occasional Coyote.
FeralKristmas KthulhuDisruptedCapitalist

Posts

  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    I got a Monoprice Select Mini V1 shortly before Christmas and then got a V2 for Christmas.

    So I'm dual wielding right out of the gate.

    The thermistor seems to have died on my v1 already, but who needs a heated bed!

    Going to have to look at Sculptris, seems like there should be an easier way to modify a design, but maybe I just need to learn the ones I've looked at better (mmeshmixer, tinkerpad is basic but like just remove a part of an object is clunky.

    I just made a holster for when I'm using my phone as an music player around the house with headphones and no pockets, then I realized I also got some bluetooth headphones recently too and well, now I have a holster for something I guess!

    "For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
  • DisruptedCapitalistDisruptedCapitalist Registered User regular
    edited March 22
    Hi ya'll I'm new to the hobby too, and I've been experimenting with some downloaded models in Blender. Here's the weird thing though: The models I download have a ridiculous number of seemingly unnecessary vertices for otherwise simple shapes. I'm used to modeling things for video games where low polygon counts are important, but I would think modeling something like a small disc or wheel should be fairly simple work.

    Here's my wheel:
    qf8wui87yozq.png
    Nice. Neat. Symmetrical.

    Here's the downloaded wheel:
    dpn4omqa4gup.png
    Weird. Messy. Asymmetrical.

    I don't have access to a printer yet, but I'd like to avoid a lot of trouble when I start printing. Any idea why this is? I've seen the same thing in other downloaded shapes where they seem needlessly complicated when I simple polygon would do the same, but I feel like I'm missing something about 3d printing.

    DisruptedCapitalist on
  • bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    I would assume it has something to do with geometry restrictions in re: printing.

    Though your symmetrical one looks less restrictive than that weird one.

    Maybe the person modeling it was just bad. A lot of them are free so probably not the best skillset to pull from.

    Ladies.
  • DisruptedCapitalistDisruptedCapitalist Registered User regular
    edited March 22
    bowen wrote: »
    I would assume it has something to do with geometry restrictions in re: printing.

    Though your symmetrical one looks less restrictive than that weird one.

    Maybe the person modeling it was just bad. A lot of them are free so probably not the best skillset to pull from.

    Actually, researching it further, (hooo boy I'm such a newb) it seems like generally most people in the 3d printing business use NURBS and not polygon meshes for modeling because NURBS has smoother results which you when when making mechanical tools, etc. So I'm guessing the 3d model I downloaded was exported from a NURBS model to STL file, which means it was converted into a triangle polygon mesh where every polygon is approximated based on the curves.

    That said, it seems like there is no reason not to use mesh models for a beginner, especially if you're just making sculptures or whatever. But if you want your grommets to perfectly fit your widgets for your manufacturing process, you'll want to use some kind of CAD software like SolidWorks instead of Blender since it has better NURBS options than Blender.


    EDIT: And here's an example I found showing the difference between a STL file and CAD program using NURBS:

    The_differences_between_CAD_and_STL_Models.svg

    So you can see how the NURBS model will be more accurate especially for getting mechanical parts to fit together.

    DisruptedCapitalist on
    bowen
  • bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    I can see why the NURBS stuff is preferred for sure there.

    Ladies.
    DisruptedCapitalist
  • DisruptedCapitalistDisruptedCapitalist Registered User regular
    edited March 23
    Ok, I'm starting to understand the difference now. It's not that Blender can't do NURBS, it's just that people don't think not really that reliable so why bother making a NURBS curve in Blender when you'll have to convert it into polygons for printing anyway? Professionals who do mechanical work are just more used to using CAD software which usually everything starts with NURBS. Sculptors will use Modbox or Scupltris. Modelers will used Maya, TinkerCAD or Blender (or whatever cuz there are dozens of them). Any of them are fine for printing, the main goal for printing is to have a high resolution whether you start with NURBS or with polygons. If you want accuracy you'll need to have a high resolution so when the print job start the printer will get close to what you want (within the limitations of the printer too, obviously.) And if you don't care about accuracy, like say you're just sculpting a simple model for a tabletop boardgame (ahem, me...!), you'll be fine with whatever.

    DisruptedCapitalist on
    bowenDevoutlyApathetic
  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks The Myth, the Legend, the Bowman, the Shambler FuckerRegistered User regular
    I would think that a model for 3D printing would be optimized for using less plastic, but would also require an internal framework to keep it upright while printing so it doesn't just fall over onto the print bed halfway through the job.

    I know roughly dick about 3D printing, but I've been knocking around with the idea of picking a 3D printer up for making custom wargaming terrain, so I'm curious to see your results.

    73CQcJZ.png
  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    Personally, I only worry if it'll fit on my build area/what'll happen if I make it fit. Plastic usage is whatever, 1 spool lasts ages. Though, that will depend on what you print how often, but with the print times you'll still get a lot of use out of a single spool.

    "For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    edited May 11
    So I find it really hard to troubleshoot my current problem. I think I know the issue, but I am really lost in the woods now.

    Recently, my prints just stop printing after like half an inch of layers. the head keeps moving, the extruder gear tries to pull the filament still I think, but the filament is defintiely stuck. It isnt a simple clog though(I think?).

    I thought it was the model I was printing at first, but it started happening on everything. I had 1-2 successful prints (after switching spools) so I figured the spool was bad, or the model was bad.

    At first it happened with some wood filament, so I figured it was clogs and bad filament. But forcing filament through cleared it out ok. It always cuts off in the /exact/ same way. I did a full tear down and put the nozzle in acetone for a few days, and it seemed pretty clear. I could probably use a new nozzle anyways, so I might pick a new one up. But it doesnt seem to be the issue.

    The only thing I can think of that is happening, is something is stuck in the nozzle, and the heat causes it to unlatch and fall into a spot where it blocks the nozzle in the time it takes to print that half inch of model. When I force more filament through, its doing something that temporarily knocks it out of the way. I thought maybe the heat was traveling up the filament to the gear that pushes it, which when soft no longer can be pushed. The filament is slightly warm up there, but it doesnt wrap itself around or eat away, it just doesnt push down. My gear was worn down, so I took it off and flipped it so let fresh teeth at it. No luck.

    I could just buy a new hotend for like $50, but I believe I would need calipers to realign everything once done and I am not looking forward to doing such a thing. It's a monoprice maker select, so a i3/prussa clone.

    DiannaoChong on
    steam_sig.png
  • KrathoonKrathoon Registered User regular
    Print kid Link from OoT.

  • DevoutlyApatheticDevoutlyApathetic Registered User regular
    So I find it really hard to troubleshoot my current problem. I think I know the issue, but I am really lost in the woods now.

    Recently, my prints just stop printing after like half an inch of layers. the head keeps moving, the extruder gear tries to pull the filament still I think, but the filament is defintiely stuck. It isnt a simple clog though(I think?).

    I thought it was the model I was printing at first, but it started happening on everything. I had 1-2 successful prints (after switching spools) so I figured the spool was bad, or the model was bad.

    At first it happened with some wood filament, so I figured it was clogs and bad filament. But forcing filament through cleared it out ok. It always cuts off in the /exact/ same way. I did a full tear down and put the nozzle in acetone for a few days, and it seemed pretty clear. I could probably use a new nozzle anyways, so I might pick a new one up. But it doesnt seem to be the issue.

    The only thing I can think of that is happening, is something is stuck in the nozzle, and the heat causes it to unlatch and fall into a spot where it blocks the nozzle in the time it takes to print that half inch of model. When I force more filament through, its doing something that temporarily knocks it out of the way. I thought maybe the heat was traveling up the filament to the gear that pushes it, which when soft no longer can be pushed. The filament is slightly warm up there, but it doesnt wrap itself around or eat away, it just doesnt push down. My gear was worn down, so I took it off and flipped it so let fresh teeth at it. No luck.

    I could just buy a new hotend for like $50, but I believe I would need calipers to realign everything once done and I am not looking forward to doing such a thing. It's a monoprice maker select, so a i3/prussa clone.

    This is just general "Hot plastic through a nozzle" thinking but it sounds like you're outfeeding your heating capacity. What keeps the nozzle nice and hot? It sounds like it may no longer be operating as well as it should. This works with your symptoms, when it preheats itself it builds up a thermal bank and as you push more plastic through it fails to put enough heat out to maintain the average temperature so it lowers until it is no longer enough to make the plastic flow.

  • RadiationRadiation Registered User regular
    Somewhat related to 3d printing, but I got a Nomad 883 used on Craigslist a while ago. Been running it and have made a few things I've posted in the SE++ arts and crafts thread. I realized that I can machine parts out of aluminium out of things and have been considering making my own 3d printer. I'm not sure that it's a great idea, especially because it could get expensive pretty quick but it'd be fun.

    Also I have no idea what I'm doing. Maybe buying a cheaper 3d printer to start out with would be the better idea.

    Also if you guys aren't aware Thingiverse is the coolest of things.

    PSN: jfrofl
  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    You can get a decent starter printer for ~$250 or little less. MP Select Mini. Way to go unless the fun part is worth the cost of all the parts you can't make.

    But now I kind of want a CNC machine...:P

    "For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
  • RadiationRadiation Registered User regular
    I'm totally a shill at this point for the Carbide 3d team. Support has been amazing on this used machine that I bought. I also ended up picking up a cheap Shapeoko 3 that I'm realizing I dont have the work space for (thought I could get creative with an enclosed cabinet but it's too big.
    So I'm working on fixing that up (there were some broken parts), and then will likely sell.

    But even if you dont go with the carbide 3d line, CNC stuff is really amazing. I think the favorite project I've done so far has been this raspberry pi type case from a file on thingiverse:
    Radiation wrote: »
    Got the other side made up and finished. I may have to do some filling down of walls to make space for the board, but hoping that wont be required.

    apMnmpXnNz9mzfXsbyPz68G34duMCOB4z6qIJU0OKxC7wE7cMCGz_j2jbV8eGmCL4_LGHw_X8nXWHBpoV3kmR3a7WO4jbJrFZWYG0gTR9Y5pNLf58Y4uz4sgbz-D7t0yuvp_4uKkBtyRt1qRuwKDdrdGspXddQbUAfLdaBfvWSbrAY1iWwQnQaJ4melwy-Cknty6OnZn5QOpyy6XriGB44Mxsoe5H_V-xQSGmUcxP9NJWEk6ifOPH2bwVojh6jsyTsgGwLYpMqoe5pXmcHOAQJgQ7lUTLnJQq2xWyMd_2Q8fA_n5py2J-8m131ILhwFGkjGYB6qxLUShBPT7P_E5IvszD8L-n4CS-Dsydh_Ngya23ChTLTBYWJm4DfQ_1tkrxMQoRmBaLHCRUKYw_BKNZqax9NyQuEWJzVd0EOmTArQJMURu1a1AcnIuIHzmEWNQJCyneDMVPtWIzUFqdSpfLgAbdb2rS4p3aujQZFGNGZ_veyx710_hKn14oDA_4FpPNL1JYhtBMcHwG2QPDVT05IPtEsc6bpxTPxmIM5L0xlghhfDGLrQTDY7NtID-tCf88vEehTp6XibYgGfW2jS7AfSPA8DJVzV0gy_dvhJRxJ1kJAz6MIMSFg6YwkaeipFE7N8g9YtTkCDwSdljJva4bZxnHWp___8nezaBvP3ItQ5ZpSYekEW8W_Tl=w731-h974-no


    Also yeah, I've seen a few really good low level 3d printers and may hop on that first. I have access to a few, but it's always nice to have your own. There's a 3d printer meetup group here that I may just start chatting up. It's likely easier to chat in person about problems or feasibility of making my own. Someone likely has gone down that rabbit hole.

    PSN: jfrofl
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