Highlight -> glaze will hide any wobbly spots and mistakes but will soften the highlight. I prefer it though since it photographs better for that crucial internet fame.
Highlight -> glaze will hide any wobbly spots and mistakes but will soften the highlight. I prefer it though since it photographs better for that crucial internet fame.
Test painting the a Skitarri cloak black (Stygia forge world) tonight after dinner while my wife did some tax/budgeting stuff.
She told me I need to actually finish some of my "little army men". I told her I'd finished a few so far... she said "No... their bases. You haven't done any of their bases and I want to see how they look when they're complete"
.........guess I'm buying something to base with this week
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited April 2018
Test paint for my Ultramarines
Edge high lighting is tough y'all. I don't hate the outcome (it looks better from table distance than a close up does), but I think I'm going to avoid it for the rest of my troops. I also used the wrong wash I think. I used Nuln Oil but it darkened the model more than I'd like. I'm going to do my next model with Drakenhoff Nightshade and see if that keeps the blue a bit brighter.
valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Ugh, and looking at that makes me want to try painting another chapter style. I could do Howling Griffons. I already have practice with yellow and red. Or I could do Invaders, since I like their OD Green look, and could use these vaunted RG rules everyone is talking about.
Or I could just add them to my Imperial Fists since they look really good as Fists.
I was just thinking last night how awesome it would be to build, just for fun, a really detailed squad or two of veteran Astra Militarum. Each soldier an individual, with some back story.
And then remembered that there's basically no good way to make female Imperial Guard without being a master greenstuff sculptor
How about using Eschers as a base model for a squad of veterans?
Still I would like plastic imperial guard {I am not calling it's random latin name} but expanding it beyond cadia and having all the parts work with each other so you can get a look you want with only a few boxes mixing matching
Highlight -> glaze will hide any wobbly spots and mistakes but will soften the highlight. I prefer it though since it photographs better for that crucial internet fame.
I do this, and if the glaze hides too much highlight do a second highlight that's thin to emphasize it.
That only happens with important models though
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
+1
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
I was just thinking last night how awesome it would be to build, just for fun, a really detailed squad or two of veteran Astra Militarum. Each soldier an individual, with some back story.
And then remembered that there's basically no good way to make female Imperial Guard without being a master greenstuff sculptor
How about using Eschers as a base model for a squad of veterans?
I hear the Necromunda Spiders, or the Lucky 7's, are still recruiting.
I was just thinking last night how awesome it would be to build, just for fun, a really detailed squad or two of veteran Astra Militarum. Each soldier an individual, with some back story.
And then remembered that there's basically no good way to make female Imperial Guard without being a master greenstuff sculptor
How about using Eschers as a base model for a squad of veterans?
Aren’t they a little... nekkid for the Emperor’s army?
I was just thinking last night how awesome it would be to build, just for fun, a really detailed squad or two of veteran Astra Militarum. Each soldier an individual, with some back story.
And then remembered that there's basically no good way to make female Imperial Guard without being a master greenstuff sculptor
How about using Eschers as a base model for a squad of veterans?
Aren’t they a little... nekkid for the Emperor’s army?
*cough* Sisters Repentia *cough*
+2
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited April 2018
So I'm realizing I really should paint my Gravis Captain in sub assemblies. Mostly so I can paint the cape and head with the pieces apart. For his body/head this is easy, I'll mount him to his base and use the citadel handle...but when I see people painting sub assemblies I see them using various devices to hold the sub pieces. Sometimes I think it's toothpicks attached to a base? How are they keeping the model bit itself attached to the "post"? Any tips or tricks for holding/gripping pieces for sub assembly painting? I'm sort of having trouble describing what I ever mean, hopefully you folks get it. I should go find pictures or something...
So I'm realizing I really should paint my Gravis Captain in sub assemblies. Mostly so I can paint the cape and head with the pieces apart. For his body/head this is easy, I'll mount him to his base and use the citadel handle...but when I see people painting sub assemblies I see them using various devices to hold the sub pieces. Sometimes I think it's toothpicks attached to a base? How are they keeping the model bit itself attached to the "post"? Any tips or tricks for holding/gripping pieces for sub assembly painting? I'm sort of having trouble describing what I ever mean, hopefully you folks get it. I should go find pictures or something...
Well a small thing of the oil based clay works so does rubber cement or white glue works
I use pva and pins. Drill a small hole where the part will attach and glue some wire in with PVA. Glue the wire into the cork the same way.
It's fairly stable, but any real force will detach the dried PVA from the plastic.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I am kind of upset for the last 3+ weeks I wanted to paint but with work being shit or the weather I have not been able to
It's upsetting
I feel ya.
I've been trying to sell my house and buy a new one, so I had to pack up all of my painting shit to get my current house ready to show. That happened in the middle of March, and even though my house is currently under contract, I can't bring my painting shit out of storage in case my buyer backs out and I need to show the house again.
Once this whole bullshit process is done, my wife and child aren't going to see me away from my painting table for a month.
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
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TIFunkaliciousKicking back inNebraskaRegistered Userregular
I did a color test today and I don't know if I'm 100% happy but it's close. I think either the gun should be a different color or there should be more white armor panels but I'm just a guy who copies official color schemes and tweaks a couple things so what do I know
I think that looks good! If you really want more white armor plates maybe something on the backpack (middle panel perhaps?) but I'd also say it is fine as is. Kneepads are also a popular choice for off color panels, maybe hands.
I think that looks good! If you really want more white armor plates maybe something on the backpack (middle panel perhaps?) but I'd also say it is fine as is. Kneepads are also a popular choice for off color panels, maybe hands.
This is something I ran into when painting my first plague marines.
I couldn't find any sources for what their power packs should look like.... all the material with photos is of the fronts of the new models.
I think that looks good! If you really want more white armor plates maybe something on the backpack (middle panel perhaps?) but I'd also say it is fine as is. Kneepads are also a popular choice for off color panels, maybe hands.
This is something I ran into when painting my first plague marines.
I couldn't find any sources for what their power packs should look like.... all the material with photos is of the fronts of the new models.
After some guesswork they turned out ok.
on the official GW store there is usually a full rotating model as one of the screenshots for each model/kit, just have to click and drag to see the model from behind.
I think that looks good! If you really want more white armor plates maybe something on the backpack (middle panel perhaps?) but I'd also say it is fine as is. Kneepads are also a popular choice for off color panels, maybe hands.
This is something I ran into when painting my first plague marines.
I couldn't find any sources for what their power packs should look like.... all the material with photos is of the fronts of the new models.
After some guesswork they turned out ok.
on the official GW store there is usually a full rotating model as one of the screenshots for each model/kit, just have to click and drag to see the model from behind.
Whelp.... that's simple enough I should have thought of it myself.
When I first started painting long long ago, I just assumed their backpacks were metal with no colored areas for the same reason. I don’t think they even had a webpage then, let alone those fancy rotating pictures.
Not that full 360 views would have helped much, I was priming things into blobs and painting with K-Mart pots.
You can always run them as superior looking cultists. I thought tzaangors were pretty good for Thousand Sons though?
They were good because you could deepstrike them turn one, warptime them six inches, and then auto succeed the charge because they get +1”. Now you can’t do that they are T4 5++ save guys who have to footslog it across the board.
They do seem crazy in AoS though, this unit of twenty gets five attacks each.
You can always run them as superior looking cultists. I thought tzaangors were pretty good for Thousand Sons though?
They were good because you could deepstrike them turn one, warptime them six inches, and then auto succeed the charge because they get +1”. Now you can’t do that they are T4 5++ save guys who have to footslog it across the board.
They do seem crazy in AoS though, this unit of twenty gets five attacks each.
They are still good in 40k. They hit turn two not turn 1 and aren't guaranteed a charge but the +1 is still there and they have a better chance than most units.
I use them in AoS though and they are fantastic but have two major weaknesses:
5+ save ain't great even with 6+ fnp verse normal wounds and even with 2 wounds.
Bravery is trash on them and you just lose a few before they start running scared or you start burning destiny dice like candy to keep them around. But also if you keep a shaman near by and use his spell you get bodies back which again is amazing.
People who don’t paint the Primaris faceplates alternate colors are dead to me, it looks so good.
Who was that guy that had a whole army of space marines done in the colors of every Transformer? Did he ever make an Optimus out of a Primaris?
Me?
I have an Optimus made of a regular marine and I've got another one built as a custom Terminator that just needs painting. (he's weilding a lascannon)
I did use some Primaris marines recently to make some of the early 90's era figures like Headmasters, Targetmasters and Action Masters, (aka the ones that didn't transform)
I just got sidetracked by Star Wars Legion mini's but my goal is to have every bot from the 84 cartoon done by the end of the year. i'm probably about 85%of the way there and im now largely doing the guys that only appeared in an episode or two.
People who don’t paint the Primaris faceplates alternate colors are dead to me, it looks so good.
Who was that guy that had a whole army of space marines done in the colors of every Transformer? Did he ever make an Optimus out of a Primaris?
Me?
I have an Optimus made of a regular marine and I've got another one built as a custom Terminator that just needs painting. (he's weilding a lascannon)
I did use some Primaris marines recently to make some of the early 90's era figures like Headmasters, Targetmasters and Action Masters, (aka the ones that didn't transform)
I just got sidetracked by Star Wars Legion mini's but my goal is to have every bot from the 84 cartoon done by the end of the year. i'm probably about 85%of the way there and im now largely doing the guys that only appeared in an episode or two.
The GW Way™ is to edge highlight everything, all the time, and edge highlight the edge highlights for important dudes or extra-shiny bits. this is dramatic and emphatic but not to everyones’ tastes, obviously.
Personally, I prefer the ‘struck edge’ highlight, where you only edge the bits that would logically be lit up by the imaginary light source you pointed at the model. This is more naturalistic and works nicely as a combo with azimuthal highlighting techniques.
Depends on the scale of the project, probably. If its for a single showcase model, i definetly l pick a light source.
Less so for an army. GW's 'highlight everything' approach is about consistancy across their collections, so no matter how the models are arranged in photography they all have the illusion of consistant light source, regardless of what angle a model is positioned.
Yeah, there's not a lot of critical thought to 'highlight everything' but that means you're not losing time in decision making either. Is it an edge? Its an easily methodocal process to move across many models. Highlight, move on.
You can always run them as superior looking cultists. I thought tzaangors were pretty good for Thousand Sons though?
They were good because you could deepstrike them turn one, warptime them six inches, and then auto succeed the charge because they get +1”. Now you can’t do that they are T4 5++ save guys who have to footslog it across the board.
They do seem crazy in AoS though, this unit of twenty gets five attacks each.
They are still good in 40k. They hit turn two not turn 1 and aren't guaranteed a charge but the +1 is still there and they have a better chance than most units.
I use them in AoS though and they are fantastic but have two major weaknesses:
5+ save ain't great even with 6+ fnp verse normal wounds and even with 2 wounds.
Bravery is trash on them and you just lose a few before they start running scared or you start burning destiny dice like candy to keep them around. But also if you keep a shaman near by and use his spell you get bodies back which again is amazing.
You burn your candy? And here I've been eating it like a chump. Well, I'm off to buy matches.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Posts
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
You can watch a million videos but you won't improve without actual practice.
It's a very easy trap to fall into. I know from experience.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Ugh... "Awesome's" are really important
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
She told me I need to actually finish some of my "little army men". I told her I'd finished a few so far... she said "No... their bases. You haven't done any of their bases and I want to see how they look when they're complete"
.........guess I'm buying something to base with this week
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Edge high lighting is tough y'all. I don't hate the outcome (it looks better from table distance than a close up does), but I think I'm going to avoid it for the rest of my troops. I also used the wrong wash I think. I used Nuln Oil but it darkened the model more than I'd like. I'm going to do my next model with Drakenhoff Nightshade and see if that keeps the blue a bit brighter.
Or I could just add them to my Imperial Fists since they look really good as Fists.
How about using Eschers as a base model for a squad of veterans?
I do this, and if the glaze hides too much highlight do a second highlight that's thin to emphasize it.
That only happens with important models though
I hear the Necromunda Spiders, or the Lucky 7's, are still recruiting.
Aren’t they a little... nekkid for the Emperor’s army?
*cough* Sisters Repentia *cough*
e: Example of what I mean
It's upsetting
Well a small thing of the oil based clay works so does rubber cement or white glue works
It's fairly stable, but any real force will detach the dried PVA from the plastic.
I feel ya.
I've been trying to sell my house and buy a new one, so I had to pack up all of my painting shit to get my current house ready to show. That happened in the middle of March, and even though my house is currently under contract, I can't bring my painting shit out of storage in case my buyer backs out and I need to show the house again.
Once this whole bullshit process is done, my wife and child aren't going to see me away from my painting table for a month.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Who was that guy that had a whole army of space marines done in the colors of every Transformer? Did he ever make an Optimus out of a Primaris?
I did find this on reddit the other day, no idea if this is who you are talking about:
This is something I ran into when painting my first plague marines.
I couldn't find any sources for what their power packs should look like.... all the material with photos is of the fronts of the new models.
After some guesswork they turned out ok.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
on the official GW store there is usually a full rotating model as one of the screenshots for each model/kit, just have to click and drag to see the model from behind.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
Whelp.... that's simple enough I should have thought of it myself.
Thanks Viking!
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Not that full 360 views would have helped much, I was priming things into blobs and painting with K-Mart pots.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
They were good because you could deepstrike them turn one, warptime them six inches, and then auto succeed the charge because they get +1”. Now you can’t do that they are T4 5++ save guys who have to footslog it across the board.
They do seem crazy in AoS though, this unit of twenty gets five attacks each.
They are still good in 40k. They hit turn two not turn 1 and aren't guaranteed a charge but the +1 is still there and they have a better chance than most units.
I use them in AoS though and they are fantastic but have two major weaknesses:
5+ save ain't great even with 6+ fnp verse normal wounds and even with 2 wounds.
Bravery is trash on them and you just lose a few before they start running scared or you start burning destiny dice like candy to keep them around. But also if you keep a shaman near by and use his spell you get bodies back which again is amazing.
PSN: Bizazedo
CFN: Bizazedo (I don't think I suck, add me).
edit: hmm. used to be able to host this before. gimme a sec.
edit:
Me?
I have an Optimus made of a regular marine and I've got another one built as a custom Terminator that just needs painting. (he's weilding a lascannon)
I did use some Primaris marines recently to make some of the early 90's era figures like Headmasters, Targetmasters and Action Masters, (aka the ones that didn't transform)
I just got sidetracked by Star Wars Legion mini's but my goal is to have every bot from the 84 cartoon done by the end of the year. i'm probably about 85%of the way there and im now largely doing the guys that only appeared in an episode or two.
Dude... photos.
I need to see Primaris Headmasters
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Less so for an army. GW's 'highlight everything' approach is about consistancy across their collections, so no matter how the models are arranged in photography they all have the illusion of consistant light source, regardless of what angle a model is positioned.
Yeah, there's not a lot of critical thought to 'highlight everything' but that means you're not losing time in decision making either. Is it an edge? Its an easily methodocal process to move across many models. Highlight, move on.
You burn your candy? And here I've been eating it like a chump. Well, I'm off to buy matches.
(plz observe techno-zangief on the mid-left)
Also I think I posted my Leman Russ before, but I finished Freki and Geri recently and wanted to get some shots side by side.